Revolution
The Complete History of the Chronograph Movement Part 2: 1990s – 2000s
From high performance to haute horlogerie, we take a look at the extraordinary calibers that have redefined the chronograph since the 1990s.
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Revolution
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The best from Watches & Wonders 2021: a collector’s top 5
Here is our Reader Contribution to round up the "Best of" series on Watches and Wonders 2021. Kunal Khemka picks his top 5.
SJX Watches
Torsti Laine Introduces the G3 and V38
A Finnish watchmaker in Switzerland, Torsti Laine has become known for his affordable watches with custom-made dials and attractively modified Unitas movements. Now he is simultaneously unveiling his next generation of watches. One is the Laine G3, an improved version of his bestselling model that’s now available with dials comprised of various materials. It continues to be powered by a Unitas calibre, but now even more elaborately decorated with relief engraving on the three-quarter plate. And the second is the Laine V38, an entirely new model that’s smaller and slimmer thanks to the automatic Vaucher VMF 5401 inside. Like the G3, it will be offered with a variety of mix-material dials. The LA18.1 with its new three-quarter plate decoration Initial thoughts Appealing for the high level of customisation and good finishing, Mr Laine’s watches have long been an accessible yet respectable entry into the world of independent watchmaking. His new models continue to offer the qualities that made his earlier watches a success, while adding a bit more to the mix in terms of finishing and choice. The variety of dial styles and materials will be the biggest selling point, while the new movement engraving might be unnecessarily fancy. The V38, in particular, is something that Mr Laine never offered before in terms of size, which should make it the most appealing to buyers wanting something more classically sized. The V38 With the G3 starting at CHF8,500, the new models are more...
Time+Tide
Ice, ice baby: The best gem set watches from Watches & Wonders
Gems, dazzle, diamonds and pizzazz. This year we have seen a delectable tableau of precious stones within, around, and pavèd on some of the flashiest new watches shown at Watches & Wonders. And while the entire Phygital viewing experience does leave a lot to be desired, the top maisons have managed to convey the blend … ContinuedThe post Ice, ice baby: The best gem set watches from Watches & Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The launch of Zenith Icons is a thrilling prospect for vintage fans
Bring on the nostalgia with rare Zenith watches from the '60s and '70s restored by the Zenith Icons collection.The post The launch of Zenith Icons is a thrilling prospect for vintage fans appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Making of the MoonSwatch | OMEGA
SJX Watches
Sinn Introduces the U50 S Mother-of-Pearl S
Typically known for making utilitarian, military-inspired watches, Sinn breaks away from its trademark aesthetic with the U50 S Mother-of-Pearl S, adding a touch of luxe to the smaller sibling of its best-selling U1 dive watch. Initial thoughts Billed as a unisex version of the U1, the U50 has a 41 mm diameter. Though not a small watch in itself, it is substantially smaller than the full-sized, 44 mm U1. With the U50 S Mother-of-Pearl S, it is clear that Sinn is trying to appeal to female buyers – a segment that the brand, with its usually large “tool” watches must have had difficulty wooing. I find the unusual combination of the blacked-out case and mother-of-pearl dial to work well. The all-black aesthetic is stealthy, the very sort of look right at home on a no-nonsense tool watch. In contrast, the mother-of-pearl dial is striking, with an iridescence is highly attractive and appealing to females looking for sports watch that has a little bit more sparkle. The paradoxical combination gives the new U50 an intriguing look, which I must confess to liking this much more than the regular U50 S. Starting at €2,750 on a rubber strap, the U50 S Mother-of-Pearl S is just a tad pricier than the regular U50 S. Given that it is also limited to just 500 pieces, it’s good value for those looking for a more stylish Sinn dive watch. Pretty but robust Despite the shimmering mother-of-pearl dial, the U50 S Mother-of-Pearl S remains robustly built, as most Sinn watches are....
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: Is the Hegid Mirage the first interchangeable case system with a Swiss movement?
Variety is the spice of life – we all love to change things up. As a result, to many enthusiasts the mere idea of the “Exit Watch” or the “one watch for all occasions” is a frankly laughable concept. How many of us finally obtain that elusive grail only to start hankering for another piece … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Is the Hegid Mirage the first interchangeable case system with a Swiss movement? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Panerai Ecologico Recycled Materials Tech: Making Recycling Work With The Submersible eLAB-ID And Luminor Marina eSteel
Our planet earth is not doing so swell. Hoping to make a difference, Panerai experiments with new materials and ways to promote conservation. Here Joshua Munchow looks at the brand's innovative use of recycling materials in the new Submersible eLAB-ID PAM1225 and Luminor Marina eSteel watches among other initiatives.
Time+Tide
#Kixntix: Pairing up the dazzling Zenith DEFY 21 Spectrum with a fresh blue Nike Air drop
We’re BACK with the streetstyle-centric #kixntix, and what better way to celebrate some of the sharpest watches to come out of Watches & Wonders than with some fresh Nikes? This time I’m enamoured by the cutting-edge engineering of the new Zenith DEFY 21 Spectrum collection. Powered by the tour de force 9004 movement – the … ContinuedThe post #Kixntix: Pairing up the dazzling Zenith DEFY 21 Spectrum with a fresh blue Nike Air drop appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Three shades of Casioak: Is the G-Shock GA-2100 series the “everything” watch?
During the bombardment of new pieces during Watches & Wonders, I needed to keep things simple on my wrist. That’s why I embarked on one week of living exclusively with three top models (just watches sadly) of the Casio G-Shock GA-2100 “Casioak” series. Are they brilliant, over-hyped, ironic or now just plain ubiquitous? We’ve previously … ContinuedThe post Three shades of Casioak: Is the G-Shock GA-2100 series the “everything” watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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IWC boss Chris Grainger-Herr is the watch world's most energetic man
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Chopard scores again with the new L.U.C QF Jubilee
Compared to other brands, the L.U.C QF Jubilee does not shy from the competition, for its pedigree movement and finishing as well as technical competence. The 25 pieces rarity is also an attractive proposition.
Time+Tide
The small change that makes a BIG difference to the new Rolex Explorer II 226570
It’s fair to say the Rolex releases last week were simply whelming – neither under or over. The highlight of the 2021 collection was the return of the 36mm Explorer and the first ever Explorer in a two-tone configuration. Many expected big changes for the Explorer II, after all, it is the 50th anniversary of … ContinuedThe post The small change that makes a BIG difference to the new Rolex Explorer II 226570 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
3 New Breitling Vintage-Style Watches, Including A Gorgeous Split-Seconds Chronograph, For The Premier Collection
In the world of fine Swiss watchmaking, the name Breitling is synonymous with top-notch chronographs. And in the 2021 Premier Heritage collection, Breitling commemorates its technical pioneers Léon, Gaston, and Willy Breitling with three new very attractive vintage-style chronographs.
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Review: Bell & Ross shines in the dark with the new Vintage BR V2-94 FULL LUM
Bell & Ross Vintage BR V2-94 FULL LUM. We took the watch for a week's spin, and give you our hands-on comprehensive review.
Time+Tide
This Rolex scene with Ari from Entourage shows how much the watch world has changed
Before anyone gets heated, no I am not about to try and “cancel” Entourage. Whether or not the show would be able to survive the present cultural landscape is an entirely different discussion, and one we are not having here. This is about watches. Recently on Instagram stories, I noticed friend of Time+Tide, Brynn Wallner, … ContinuedThe post This Rolex scene with Ari from Entourage shows how much the watch world has changed appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The 35mm Tissot PRX - Smaller but Still Packs A Similar Size Punch
SJX Watches
Tissot Introduces the Heritage Navigator “Săgeata Orientului”
Announced at the end of 2020, the Heritage Navigator “Săgeata Orientului” is a limited edition made for Tissot’s distributor in Romania that recalls the glamorous era of early aviation. Based on Tissot’s world-time wristwatch that’s a remake of the vintage original of the 1950s, the Săgeata Orientului was conceived to mark the 100 years since the founding of CFRNA. Compagnie franco-roumaine de navigation aérienne in full, the CFRNA was a French-Romanian transcontinental airline that flew passengers and mail between Paris and Istanbul in the 1920s before merging into Air France. Translating as “arrow of the orient”, Săgeata Orientului was the original route flown by the CFRNA that included several stops on the way, including Bucharest. Despite taking 21 hours, the CFRNA flight was high-speed travel by the standards of the time, with the same trip by rail taking three days. Initial thoughts Although the Săgeata Orientului is essentially a colour variation of the Tissot world time – originally launched in 2013 for the brand’s 160th anniversary – it is smartly executed, and just as importantly, backed up by a rich historical tale evocative of the glamorous early decades of aviation. And being a Tissot, the Săgeata Orientului is naturally affordable. The US$1800-ish price tag makes it strong value, and an eminently compelling buy (which I first came to know of thanks to Monochrome). The only downside of the watch is inherent to the Heritage Navig...
Time+Tide
INTERVIEW: What we learnt from Nick English about Bremont’s grand plans for The Wing
Editor’s note: A few weeks after Bremont opened the doors of its impressive new watchmaking facilities, The Wing, our European editor Mike Christensen was treated to a guided tour from the British brand’s co-founder Nick English, to see what all the fuss is about. Gobsmacked, absolutely gobsmacked. It was like someone had transported me to … ContinuedThe post INTERVIEW: What we learnt from Nick English about Bremont’s grand plans for The Wing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Montblanc Introduces the Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon
One of the most interesting new releases from Montblanc at Watches & Wonders 2021 is the Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon, a technically impressive movement fused with a sparkly aventurine-glass dial. It’s equipped with a larger-than-usual balance wheel positioned above the dial, seemingly suspended but actually part of the tourbillon regulator. Initial thoughts Introduced at SIHH 2018, the Suspended Exo Tourbillon movement was most recently seen in an open-worked variant unveiled last year. Despite not being new in terms of mechanics, the new Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon is different enough from its predecessors – and still powered by the same fine movement. Very much living up to the Star Legacy model name, the aventurine-glass is restrained and modern, especially when combined with the white gold case, giving it a different look from the earlier models that were in rose gold. Typical of Montblanc’s higher-end watches made at the former Minerva manufacture in Villeret – as opposed to its more affordable timepieces, manufactured at the main facility in Le Locle – the Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon is remarkably well-finished. Worlds apart from Montblanc’s entry-level tourbillon in terms of movement decoration, the movement is also more traditionally finished than comparably priced alternatives such as the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon. However, because the movement was derived from the pocket watch calibres developed by M...
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Vacheron Constantin: the best 3 picks from this year’s novelties list
Top 3 picks from this year's VC novelties: Historiques American 1921, Traditionelle Split Seconds Chronograph and the Métiers d'Art Tribute to Explorers.
Time+Tide
A photographer explains why the Grand Seiko SLGH005 White Birch is so great to shoot
Earlier this year Grand Seiko announced a watch that was an instant hit within collectors’ circles. The new Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 9SA5 Series 9 “White Birch” SLGH005 had everything you might expect from a Grand Seiko. It had a well-proportioned 40mm steel case, contained the brand-new 9SA5 automatic hi-beat movement and also featured a … ContinuedThe post A photographer explains why the Grand Seiko SLGH005 White Birch is so great to shoot appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Hands On: The Seiko Prospex Samurai Save The Ocean, Asia Special Edition SRPH43
Quill & Pad
Death Of The Dress Watch: Is It Time To Write Its Obituary? – Reprise
As the resident gentleman of Quill & Pad, Martin Green feels that the time is soon approaching to write an obituary announcing the death of the dress watch. He thinks that its passing is coming and it's not an isolated event. But it still hurts.
SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Nonantième
Marking its 90th anniversary this year, the Reverso is the only truly successful reversible wristwatch. Jaeger-LeCoultre has long utilised the twin sides of the Reverso case for complications, and now for the first time equips the flip side with a digital hour display. The Reverso Tribute Nonantième – nonantième is French for “ninetieth” – has a conventional front, but an unusual reverse decorated in blue lacquer that features a “semi-jumping hour”, disc minutes, along with a day and night display. Front and back Initial thoughts From the front the Nonantième is hard to distinguish from other Reversos, but from the back it is immediately interesting with its digital hour and disc-type minutes. The reverse face is attractive and certainly unique, but the movement inside is more familiar. Though the cal. 826 is new, it is evidently derived from the cal. 853/854 in the various Reverso Duoface models, being similar in principle but different in indications. It’s mechanically novel, though the fact that the hour display is “semi jumping” rather than actual jumping is regrettable. The reverse display with digital hours Rectangular (or even tonneau) watches usually lose their elegance beyond a certain size, and the Nonantième is close to the limit. At 49.4 mm by 29.9 mm, the Nonantième is a big watch, identical in size to other extra-large models in the Reverso line up, making it suited for larger wrists. At a bit over US$40,000, the Nonantième feels p...
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New: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Nonantième – a complication for the 90th
Presenting the complicated Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso to celebrate the 90th Anniversary - the Reverso Tribute Nonantième, the maison's first jumping hour.
Time+Tide
ANALYSIS: How is the $5.2m Audemars Piguet Black Panther different to the $160k version?
As a community, we watch lovers can forget there is a larger world beyond our obsession, and that the overwhelming majority of watch buyers are not plugged in, in any way, to our commentary. Not every luxury watch buyer, even of popular models we all desire, has dived down the #watchfam rabbit hole. Consequently, they … ContinuedThe post ANALYSIS: How is the $5.2m Audemars Piguet Black Panther different to the $160k version? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Best of the Patek Philippe 2021 novelties
Other than the green dial 5711/1A, Patek Philippe has been busy with a furry of excellent novelties for 2021. Here are our picks for the best.
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