Hodinkee
Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera 36mm In Hot New Colors – And With A Movement Upgrade
The line represents TAG Heuer's answer to the colorful Rolex Oyster Perpetuals and Omega Aqua Terras.
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Hodinkee
Revolution
VIDEO: TAG Heuer’s new anniversary Carrera models launched at Watches and Wonders 2023
Revolution Founder Wei Koh introduces the new Carrera timepieces by TAG Heuer. These tribute timepieces pay homage to the early Carrera models, their motor racing-inspired vintage details and the rich history of TAG Heuer.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The New Tudor Black Bay Lineup With In-House Movements
They range from 31mm to 41mm. We've got color changes and a new movement. But the best day-to-day improvement might just be the quick-adjust clasp.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Grand Seiko's First Mechanical Chronograph, The Tentagraph (Live Pics)
The high-beat watch is the latest edition to the Evolution 9 Collection.
Worn & Wound
Rolex Redesigns the Daytona for 60th Anniversary
Rolex has given the Daytona its first proper redesign since the 116520 was released in 2000. With it comes an updated movement, and a few nods to older references that we’ve been asking for, as well a surprise or two along the way. The new Daytona design replaces all existing references with a new base collection that spans from steel; yellow Rolesor; yellow, white, and Everose gold; and of course, platinum. Each receives an updated 4131 automatic movement which finally brings stuff like the Chronergy escapement to the collection. It also gets an openworked oscillating weight, which, for the first time ever on a Daytona, is visible through an exhibition caseback on the platinum anniversary reference. At a glance, the new Daytona doesn’t look all that different from the outgoing references. This is very much an iteration of the same concept that’s been evolving since 1953. The most immediately apparent departure from the prior generation is the thickness of the rings surrounding the sub dials, the shape of the hour markers, and the bezel construction. They add up to a notably different vibe that presents a slightly jarring take on the dial design thanks to the altered proportions. The thinner sub dial surrounds in particular highlight this difference, and it’s a detail most noticeable on the steel examples as they are contrasted against the dial color alone. The precious metal references get those sub dials filled in, which work well here. One of the most welcomed...
Worn & Wound
The Black Bay’s Back, Alright! Tudor Launches the New Black Bay 54 and more
We never know what to expect from Tudor at Watches & Wonders, and, well, they didn’t let us down in the surprise department this year, including with a new Black Bay model featuring a – get this – 37mm case. If you had called that one, you might be a psychic. But that was hardly it, we saw a new dial of the GMT, and the return of the Black Bay Burgundy, but with a METAS flavored surprise. The Black Bay’s Back – alright, let’s get into it. I recall being kind of blown away at Basel 2018 when Tudor launched the Black Bay 58. A 39mm Tudor dive watch! I couldn’t really believe it, as common as it might seem today. Well, today Tudor bested themselves once again with the Black Bay 54, a 37mm spiritual recreation of Tudor’s first dive watch, the 7922 from 1954. What you’ll find in the BB54 is a mashup of new (well, vintage-inspired new) and old, in, essentially, a scaled-down BB58. The case is said to have the proportions of the 7922 at 37mm x 11.24mm with 20mm lugs. Additionally, the bezel insert copies the layout of the 7922’s. The insert is black, and features numerals at intervals of 10 in a thin typeface, alternating with blocky rectangles that feel just a hair larger than they should be, but in keeping with the proportions of the original. It’s the kind of quirk that adds personality and quickly sets it apart from its slightly more contemporary siblings. I’m sure plenty of people will be excited to see that markings maintain the tone of the metal bel...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The New Rolex Daytona With Redesigned Case And New Caliber 4131
With a slightly redesigned case and bezel, too.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Four New Tank Louis Cartier Watches
A quartet ranging from modern minimalism to glamorous glitz.
Revolution
The new IWC Ingenieur unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2023
Wei Koh, Founder of Revolution, and Jeremiah Chan, Deputy Digital Editor of Revolution introduce the new IWC Ingenieur, which is themed on the original 1976 IWC Ingenieur. 40mm in case size and available in steel or titanium, the 2023 IWC Ingenieur pays tribute to its great designer Gérald Genta and is powered by the IWX […]
Worn & Wound
(Hands-On)The Genta IWC Ingenieur Era Returns With New Automatic 40
The Ingenieur pivots back to its Gerald Genta design era this year with the introduction of a new collection that references the Ingenieur SL, reference 1832 from 1976. This is a move we (and likely, many of you) have anticipated since asking IWC CEO Chris Grainger about it back in 2021 on the Worn & Wound podcast (listen to that episode right here). The new Ingenieur collection welcomes three steel references that feature unique textured dials in silver, black, and aqua, and a full titanium reference with a gray dial. Each feature the new integrated bracelet design made famous by Genta in the ‘70s that we last saw in 2013 with the Ingenieur reference 3239. The new Inge takes a slightly softer approach and places an emphasis on ergonomics, and during our time with the watch in London last month, found it to be exactly that. This is the new Ingenieur Automatic 40 and yes, it still has a soft-iron inner case. The Ingenieur has a rather interesting history that reaches back to 1955 with the reference 666, where it embraced a classic round shape and simple dial befitting of the era. It was launched around the same time as the Rolex Milgauss, and filled a similar role, making use of a soft-iron inner case to protect the movement from magnetic influence (up to 80,000 Amperes per meter). The name has roots in Old French and Medieval Latin, according to IWC, evolving from “ingeniator” or “one who makes or uses an engine”. The word Inegnieur evokes a similar vibe, and b...
SJX Watches
Kudoke Introduces the Kudoke 3
German independent Kudoke has carved out its own niche with a distinctive blend of English-inspired movements and Germanic attention-to-detail in its Handwerk line of watches. The latest addition to the line is the Kudoke 3, which largely sticks to the successful formula of prior models, but offers a twist in the form of a split-level dial and triple-scale hour display. Once known primarily for ostentatiously skeletonised Unitas calibers, such as the watch worn by Dominic Monaghan’s character in Last Looks, Kudoke hit the reset button in 2019 with Handwerk line comprised of the Kudoke 1 and 2. The collection introduced a more restrained design aesthetic and importantly, brand’s first proprietary movement. The Kudoke 3 continues down this path, but goes further in terms of creative design. The Handwerk collection (from left): Kudoke 1, Kudoke 2, and Kudoke 3 Initial thoughts As a fan of modern German (and historical English) watchmaking, I’ve been impressed with the brand’s work since the launch of the Kudoke 1. Like Habring² and Laine, Kudoke offers a compelling alternative to mass-produced luxury watches. The Kudoke 3 is a thoughtful and unconventional addition to the Dresden-based brand’s growing collection, offering a novel time display with three scales for the hours along with a three-armed hour hand. This triple-scale calls to mind the distinctive seconds register of the 1990s Daniel Roth tourbillon (recently reborn as the Tourbillon Souscription), but ...
Quill & Pad
Watch Market Trends and Predictions: 2023 and Beyond
Throughout 2022, there has been an economic shift globally. Thankfully, we have moved forward from the pandemic, however, we are now entering a period of higher interest rates in response to inflation. With this, consumer patterns will change and the watch industry will be affected. So Raman Kalra thought it might be interesting to look at historical watch trends and give his predictions on what shifts we will see on our wrists over the next 5-10 years.
Time+Tide
The Rolex Explorer 40 showcases a new 40mm case
The discontinuation of the 39mm Rolex Explorer was a surprise, and its 36mm replacement, though a return to original sizing, left many wondering what Rolex had up its sleeves. Naturally, the crown had a plan, and it has now come to light in form of the new Rolex Explorer 40. Its simplicity remains untarnished, offering … ContinuedThe post The Rolex Explorer 40 showcases a new 40mm case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Rolex treats us with FIVE new Daytonas
Rolex has finally revealed their new releases for Watches & Wonders 2023, and the Cosmograph Daytona is certainly among the most anticipated. Without further ado, let’s get right into the new features and the five new models that mark the model’s 60th anniversary. The new features The biggest new upgrade to the Daytona line-up is … ContinuedThe post Rolex treats us with FIVE new Daytonas appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The new Tudor Black Bay in burgundy sports a Jubilee-style bracelet
The new Tudor Black Bay in burgundy fills the hole of the discontinued red Heritage Black Bay. It features modern Tudor features such as an in-house movement with a 70 hour power reserve. You can choose between their riveted bracelet, a Jubilee-style bracelet, or a rubber strap, all with the T-fit clasp system. Fears have … ContinuedThe post The new Tudor Black Bay in burgundy sports a Jubilee-style bracelet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Three New Patek Philippe Aquanauts – Including A Flyback Chronograph And Aquanaut Luce, Both In Rose Gold
The Aquanaut Flyback Chronograph gets the rose gold treatment, and Patek brings the annual calendar to the Aquanaut for the first time. Plus, a third model with a diamond bezel.
Time+Tide
Sophisticated bling: The Frederique Constant Highlife Sparkling
The Frederique Constant Highlife Sparkling brings a touch of dawn to the night sky dial. Its 1970s style case grounds the use of diamonds, giving it a sporty flavour. It uses a quick-change strap system, to use with the bracelet and the included white rubber strap. For those who crave both the energy of an … ContinuedThe post Sophisticated bling: The Frederique Constant Highlife Sparkling appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Frederique Constant Classics Tourbillon Manufacture is a high-end flex from an accessible brand
The Frederique Constant Classics Tourbillon Manufacture celebrates the brand’s 35th birthday. The calibre FC-980 returns as the brand’s flagship in-house movement. It’s a limited edition of 150 pieces. Frederique Constant is often referred to as an affordable luxury brand, which I believe does them somewhat of a disservice. While they do have a large range … ContinuedThe post The Frederique Constant Classics Tourbillon Manufacture is a high-end flex from an accessible brand appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech returns with a modern take on vintage style
The Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech marks a return for the 40mm Radiomir case. The use of Goldtech and a white dial offers a modern and sophisticated take on the vintage-inspired watch. It’s also the thinnest watch in Panerai’s current lineup, at a cuff-friendly 10.15mm. This seems to be the year of the Radiomir for Panerai, … ContinuedThe post The Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech returns with a modern take on vintage style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Chopard Happy Sport 25mm becomes the smallest member of the collection
The Chopard Happy Sport 25mm is the smallest of its collection so far. The dancing diamonds are protected by a thin gold frame. Four references are available, with options for diamond set bezels and double-tour leather straps. It’s crazy to consider that it was only 30 years ago that diamonds first appeared on a steel … ContinuedThe post The Chopard Happy Sport 25mm becomes the smallest member of the collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni is a prototype-inspired novelty
The Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni is a modern take on a 1936 reissue. The recycled eSteel case is decorated with a Brunito PVD coating, emulating tarnish. The 8-day power reserve is advertised on the dial, and provided by the hand-winding calibre P.5000. With a lot of focus put onto the Radiomir series this Watches & … ContinuedThe post The Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni is a prototype-inspired novelty appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
TAG Heuer’s Carrera Glassbox Chronograph celebrates the 60th anniversary of the Carrera
With the flashiness of the Carrera Plasma and Aquaracer Full Gold, TAG Heuer takes a more subtle approach for their Watches & Wonders release celebrating the Carrera’s 60th anniversary. The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox features a new case size, refreshed movement and a gorgeously vintage box-domed crystal that takes us back right to the … ContinuedThe post TAG Heuer’s Carrera Glassbox Chronograph celebrates the 60th anniversary of the Carrera appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Parmigiani Fleurier debuts a world-first with the Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante
Re-imagining a use case for their Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante calibre, Parmigiani Fleurier present the Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante In classic Parmigiani style, it’s a minimal take on an elapsed time complication, negating the need for a timing bezel Powered by a modified GMT Rattrapante calibre dubbed the PF052 It’s safe to say that Parmigiani … ContinuedThe post Parmigiani Fleurier debuts a world-first with the Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Panerai Revives the Radiomir California
Perhaps the most distinctive of all Radiomir designs, the “California” was nonetheless absent from Panerai’s catalogue for some time. Now it makes a comeback as the Radiomir California PAM01349. Essentially a cooler (and more expensive) version of the new Radiomir “Otto Giorni”, the PAM01349 preserves the signature features of the design, including the dial and blue hands, but works in a few concessions to modern tastes, including a smoked green finish for the dial as a scaled-down, 45 mm case. Initial thoughts The California has long been my favourite Radiomir so I am glad it is making a comeback. While it looks slightly vintage, the PAM01349 is clearly not a vintage reissue, which is a good thing. The combination of a green dial and aged case is an appealing one. However, the PAM01349 costs about 20% more than the Radiomir models with the same movement, a premium that isn’t grounded in any tangible features and thus hard to justify. Romans and Arabics The dial is classic “California” with Roman numerals on its top half and Arabic numbers on the lower half. Originally designed for legibility so each half of the dial is easily distinguishable from the other, the California dial was synonymous with the Radiomir. The PAM01349 preserves the original design, but the texture and colour are contemporary. Like most other recent releases, the dial has a grained surface and smoked finish, both in keeping with current tastes. The dial treatment gives the watch a vin...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Cartier Introduces The Santos-Dumont Skeleton In A Trio Of Metals
Cartier's most daring Santos-Dumont yet features a new in-house movement (oh, and lacquer is back too).
Hodinkee
Introducing: The All New IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 (Live Pics)
The brand returns to the archives after four decades with a Gerald Genta-inspired, throwback design.
Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Carbon is ultra light and very wild
Hublot renders a full carbon integrated bracelet for their new Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Carbon. Despite a full-sized 43mm case, the new model checks in at a featherweight 68 grams, including the bracelet. The visually striking movement features a suspended, skeletonised tourbillon and branded micro-rotor. Of all the exotic materials that Hublot has utilised … ContinuedThe post Hublot Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Carbon is ultra light and very wild appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface blends classic complications with modern execution
The Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface looks to the brand’s history for inspiration Combining a retrograde date and tourbillon, it’s the next in line of complicated Traditionnelle references, the 2162 R31 calibre awarded a Geneva Seal The Openface sapphire dial’s gold surfaces are guillochéd by hand Despite what the name suggests, Vacheron Constantin’s Traditionnelle collection … ContinuedThe post The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface blends classic complications with modern execution appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces the Radiomir PAM01347 and PAM01348 “Otto Giorni”
With a distinctive style inspired by historical military dive watches, Panerai has pivoted to a more contemporary aesthetic in recent years. This year the brand is once again looking back into its history with the Radiomir “Otto Giorni” PAM01347 and PAM01348. Both models are modelled on historical designs but executed in modern colours and finishes. Initial thoughts Both watches are essentially facelifted versions of the Radiomir 8 Days PAM00992, sharing the same dial layout and in-house manual movement. While the PAM00992 was historically inspired (though not a remake of any one model), the newly launched pair is clearly more modern. The two watches are clearly targeted at someone who likes the Panerai style, but wants something more current in terms of colours and textures. With that in mind, the PAM01347 and PAM01348 are sensible and successful new launches. Both watches use recycled steel for the case, but more notable is the “aged” case finish that goes well with the textured, smoked dial. Otto Giorni Like most Radiomir models, the PAM01347 and PAM01348 are rooted in the dive watch developed by Panerai (and produced by Rolex) in 1935 for the Italian navy. With its distinctive cushion case and wire lugs (recognisable as a Rolex pocket watch with additional, soldered lugs), the Radiomir is one of Panerai’s signature models alongside the Luminor. While the historical Radiomir was a massive 47 mm in diameter, more recent Radiomir models are 45 mm, as is th...
Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Date is a quarter in colour
Four new colours for a traditionally sized TAG Heuer Carrera time-only model A revised case profile with improved thickness and wearability Upgraded from Calibre 5 to Calibre 7 History is a hugely important aspect of any new Carrera release, owing to the rich heritage of the model and the moments and personalities associated with it. … ContinuedThe post TAG Heuer Carrera Date is a quarter in colour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.