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Fratello
Last year, Rolex released a string of hits. Among the biggest were the yellow gold and Rolesor versions of the GMT-Master II with a black and gray bezel. The combination of colors and the Jubilee bracelets made for a duo of GMT-Master IIs that quickly won people over. But this year, the duo has become […] Visit Rolex Introduces The GMT-Master II Black And Gray In Stainless Steel to read the full article.
Monochrome
Back in 2015, on the occasion of the brand’s 260th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin unveiled the Reference 57260, a pocket watch made-to-order for a collector considered the most complicated in the world – with no fewer than 57 complications, including Gregorian, Judaic, and lunar calendars. On the occasion of Watches & Wonders 2024, the Geneva-based manufacture […]
Monochrome
In 2020, for its 60th anniversary, Grand Seiko unveiled two milestones: a new automatic, hi-beat movement named calibre 9SA5 and a new collection of watches with an updated design language known as Evolution 9. It took us and the watch community a bit of time to understand the importance of this move by the Japanese watchmaker; […]
Time+Tide
Let’s be honest. When people attend a watch fair as huge as Watches & Wonders, they’re most excited about new watches and not so much new colour schemes. There is an exception to this, and that’s when the colours are just too nice to ignore. Of the new IWC Portugieser Chronograph collection, we got our … ContinuedThe post A playful yet respectful new colour for the IWC Portugieser Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
IWC isn't all about pilot's watches, as this year's bevy of interesting Portugiesers demonstrates.The post The inside scoop on IWC at Watches & Wonders 2024 from CEO Chris Grainger-Herr appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The tourbillon is already one of the most mechanically impressive but elegant complications, neatly integrated into a tiny radius. For Watches & Wonders 2024, IWC sought to further iterate on the elegance of its manual-winding Portugieser Tourbillon, but rather than just introducing a new dial colour or strap option, the brand added a complication. Usually, … ContinuedThe post The IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night shows the globe in a novel way appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
One field of expertise immediately comes to mind when thinking about Piaget: the art of crafting ultra-thin watches. Throughout its history, the brand has become synonymous with legendary calibres, such as the 2mm thin 9P introduced in 1957 and the 2.3mm thin 12P micro-rotor movement unveiled in 1960. Approximately a decade ago, the groundbreaking 900P […]
SJX Watches
No stranger to extravagant timepieces, Roger Dubuis’ brand of “Hyper Horology” is apparent in its bold design language and intricate, showy movements. For Watches & Wonders 2024 the manufacture presents the Roger Dubuis Orbis In Machina Central Monotourbillon, a central tourbillon with an expectedly classical movement. Initial thoughts The way Roger Dubuis carries itself now is very different from the brand’s early, classically styled pieces. The current house style is centred on mechanical aesthetics, angular shapes, and large cases with proprietary triple lugs. The Orbis in Machina sticks to that familiar style, although the front appears more subdued and technical than the average Roger Dubuis complication. Despite the layered and open-worked dial, the technicality of the piece is mostly concealed. Orbis in Machina still carries a few embellishments, resulting in a design that is clearly opulent in a hyper-mechanical sort of way. Seemingly sitting at the top of a stack of moving parts on the dial, the tourbillon regulator serves as the centrepiece. Paradoxically, the more restrained composition on the outside contrasts with the interesting and sophisticated mechanics within. The movement fills up the large case, creating a sense of visual density. This is more evident on the back, which tells a whole different story compared to the front. The display back reveals an intricate and exquisitely finished movement. Stylistically, the RD115 movement is also an unusual...
SJX Watches
Zenith has return to one of its most striking vintage watches with the Defy Revival A3648. A re-issue of the A3648 of 1969, the latest Defy Revival shares the same angular, 37 mm case and distinctive fourteen-sided bezel. While the newly released model shares the styling of the original – as well as the 600 m depth rating – it has been upgraded with modern materials, like a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal insert. Initial thoughts From the Defy Revival A3691 to the Chronomaster Revival, Zenith has frequently turned to its vintage watches for reissues. The brand’s approach to reissues is straightforward: maintain the original aesthetics as much as possible while upgrading them technically modern movements, superior materials, and more robust bracelets. While not a creative formula in any sense, it is an effective one, particularly with interesting and appealing vintage models. This same formula has been applied to the Defy Revival A3648. It is a byproduct of analysing historical blueprints, thereby staying faithful to the original in most aspects, including design and the 600 m depth rating. Priced at CHF7400, the Defy Revival A3648 is a decent value proposition, though not quite to the level that Zenith was historically known for. It’s a faithful vintage re-issue of a distinctive design that’s been updated with modern materials and quality that results in robustness and reliability superior to the vintage original. Tasty Orange The defining characteristics of t...
Hodinkee
Plus the return of the lacquer dial with Santos Dumont four ways, in three colors, and three metals.
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin presents the world’s most complicated watch once again, surpassing its own record set by the Reference 57260 in 2015. Commissioned by the same American collector who owns the 57260, the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers “The Berkley” Grand Complication boasts many of the complications found in its predecessor but gains a world first, a perpetual Chinese calendar. Made by the elite three-man team responsible for the 57260, the Berkley is a unique mechanical achievement with over two faces and over 60 complications. It joins a major collection of pocket watches that includes not only the 57260 but also the King Farouk I grand complication made by Vacheron Constantin for the Egyptian monarch in the 1930s. Initial thoughts Named after its owner, the Berkley cannot be compared to commonplace high horology. Instead it sits among the historical greats – which happen to all be pocket watches – like the the Breguet Marie Antoinette, Leroy 01, and of course the Patek Philippe duo of the the Graves Super Complication and Calibre 89. But now the Berkley trumps them all, having pushed the boundaries of possibility to sit at the zenith of watchmaking. The owner of the Berkley, insurance tycoon William R. Berkley, evidently has a keen appreciation of mechanical excellence. The watch is a masterpiece in the extreme art of micro engineering. But not only is it exceptionally complicated, it boasts a first in watchmaking – a perpetual Chinese calendar com...
Hodinkee
Will mint green be the final boss of the green dial trend?
Hodinkee
The lion's mane pattern of the dial is something that you have to see to truly appreciate.
Hodinkee
Inspired by various times of day, these dials infuse new life into the classic line.
Hodinkee
A very Patek watch, with a new dial, hits all the right notes for the old school lovers of the brand.
Hodinkee
From the white birch dial to the satisfying click of a new manual movement, Grand Seiko may have just dropped their best dress watch in years.
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer’s flagship launch at Watches & Wonders 2024 is the Monaco Split Seconds Chronograph, the brand’s first-ever mechanical split-seconds chronograph wristwatch. Initially launched as a piece unique for the postponed 2023 edition of Only Watch, the Monaco Split Seconds now enters regular production in red and blue liveries. Titanium inside and out with an integrated movement developed by Vaucher – the movement bridges and plates are titanium – the Monaco Split Seconds is a premium product with a premium price that puts the brand in the haute horlogerie segment, which also communicates a mixed message given the brand’s focus on affordable chronographs. Initial thoughts While sports timekeeping is core to TAG Heuer’s DNA, the brand’s only wrist-worn split seconds chronographs to date were of the quartz and digital variety. And given the delayed sale of the Only Watch example, the Monaco Split Seconds will be TAG Heuer’s first mechanical split-seconds chronograph sold publicly, enhancing the collector appeal. One of the most iconic square watches in history – and probably the only recognisable sports chronograph with a form case – the Monaco has proven adaptable to both retro and futuristic designs over the years; the Split Seconds is of course the latter. While I find the overall styling a bit over the top, especially the X-shaped braces that form part of the dial, I can’t help but admire many of the details, such as the stepped box sapphire crysta...
Monochrome
IWC’s Portugieser Eternal Calendar is the undisputed calendar masterpiece of the Schaffhausen-based brand for Watches and Wonders 2024. A colossal technical milestone, the Eternal Calendar marks the brand’s first secular perpetual calendar. Unlike a perpetual calendar that will need a correction in 2100, the Eternal Calendar is fitted with a 400-year gear that overrides the […]
Fratello
If you’re new to watches and have noticed the big wave of retro love sweeping the world, the Ulysse Nardin Freak will surely shock your system. And it will stun you even more if you are not privy to the fact that this is an ever-evolving creation that is already over 20 years old. That’s […] Visit Introducing: The Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad - Reinventing Hand-Crafted Avant-Garde to read the full article.
Fratello
As part of the Watches and Wonders 2024 releases from Grand Seiko, here we have the Grand Seiko SLGW003 and SLGW002. These are two new additions to the Evolution 9 collection. This is Grand Seiko’s newer design language that, while rooted in the 44GS, aims to push the brand forward. Today, Grand Seiko adds two […] Visit Introducing: Grand Seiko SLGW003 And SLGW002 “Birch Bark” Hand-Winders to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Amidst the plethora of sports watches with integrated bracelets, the Zenith Defy Skyline stands out for its uncluttered design and relative affordability. Now the lineup is joined by the Defy Skyline Chronograph. The chronograph maintains many of the signature features of the existing models, such as its octagonal case and star-patterned dial. Debuting in three dial colours, Defy chronograph is amongst Zenith’s sportier offerings. Like other recent launches, it is powered by the second-generation El Primero calibre. Initial thoughts The Defy Skyline Chronograph is another option for an enthusiasts seeking a sports chronograph with a contemporary design and integrated bracelet. There are admittedly many, many options in this category, but the Defy chronograph is one of the value-minded offerings. At CHF11,900, the Defy chronograph with its in-house movement is competitively priced compared to other offerings in the sports watch market. The brand has opted for a conservative design while retaining a modern edge. Though the overall design is familiar, it has incorporates a few unusual details, including a polygonal flange around the dial. The watch is being launched in only three colours, all simple, easy shades that are well suited to the design, though not exciting. With the limited colours in mind, some might want to wait for subsequent releases that may adopt the colours found in its time-only counterpart. Zenith’s latest addition The Defy chronograph joins Zenith’...
Worn & Wound
Watches that do more than a human being is capable of are nothing new. Rolex, Omega, and others make dive watches that are capable of reaching depths that no man or woman could survive. The Rolex Deepsea Challenge is rated to 11,000 meters (which means it’s tested to even greater depths) while the deepest point in the ocean is about 10,900 meters, give or take. That means this particular dive watch can go deeper than any depth possible on the planet. Even that, somehow, feels more practical than IWC’s big release at Watches & Wonders, the Portugieser Eternal Calendar. This is the brand’s first secular calendar, which accounts for leap-year exception rules in the Gregorian calendar that play out over a 400 year span. A calendar complication that no living human will have a chance to observe do its thing in real time is one thing, but it’s the moonphase on this watch that is truly looking ahead: IWC claims it’s accurate to 45 million years. And just think, it wasn’t even ten years ago that the Apple Watch had many in this industry scared that watchmaking could be killed by smart-gadgets. Talk about confidence. The concept of a secular calendar will be worth a refresher for many, as it’s a truly rare complication that most brands simply don’t attempt given the incredibly long timeframes involved (the last one we discussed in these pages was from indie Furlan Marri). The gist is this: in addition to a leap year every four years, Gregorian calendar needs an ad...
Worn & Wound
Watches & Wonders 2024 is here, and with it comes another addition to Hublot’s expanding lineup of colorful sapphire-cased watches. These vibrantly hued sapphire cases have become a bit of a staple for Hublot in the last few years, and I am here for it. As someone whose preferences typically skew towards the sensible and sedate, you might be surprised to learn that, in staunch defiance of my typical taste and common sense, Hublot’s experiments have produced some of my favorite recent watches. I’m a big believer in fun watches and, for all the flack that gets sent Hublot’s way, it’s impossible to deny the smile that creeps across your face when you strap on a giant purple sapphire tourbillon. Today’s addition to the brightly colored lineup is a new limited version of the Big Bang MP-11. The MP-11 was first introduced six years ago (back when Baselworld was still a thing) and is no stranger to transparency. Over the years, the MP-11 has seen releases in clear sapphire, dark blue sapphire, and green SAXEM. This new release brings a different character to the familiar piece, with a brand new icy glacier blue sapphire case and matching rubber strap, complemented by titanium hardware, bezel screws, and crown. The new color, which Hublot is calling ‘Water Blue Sapphire’ and releasing in a limited edition of just 50, is the result of a new chemical formula, and results in a color that seems to change based on the light around the watch from a pale blue to an ocean-...
Worn & Wound
Zenith returns to the Defy collection this year at Watches & Wonders with the introduction of a Defy Skyline Chronograph. This is a version of the next-gen Defy that Zenith fans have been anticipating since the collection’s debut, given the long line of chronographs that have populated Defy collections past and present. The new Defy Skyline Chronograph follows iterations of the Skyline that have played with materials and skeletonization, so it seems possible (even likely) that eventually the chronograph will get similar treatment. For now, we have a trio of references in stainless steel that feel like a logical extension of the Defy Skyline series. The 42mm case is effectively unchanged from previous skylines, and is Zenith’s contemporary take on the original 8-sided Defy case first seen in the late 1960s. The Defy, as opposed to the Chronomaster and Pilot lines, has always been Zenith’s playground for the avant-garde and the unusual, and the highly sculptural case design of this watch, that traces a lineage back to the original, underscores the very nature of what the Defy is. Dial options at launch include metallic black, blue, and silver, and feature the signature star pattern that has been present in the Skyline from the beginning. The subdials are oversized and overlap just slightly (perhaps not as much as on a Chronomaster) and are color matched to the main dial, but do not feature the Skyline stars. As with most other watches running on El Primero movement...
Fratello
You might have to look twice, but you’re looking at the updated IWC Portugieser Automatic 42. These models have a completely re-engineered case construction with a more slender side profile. The bezel-less watches feature double-domed box-style glass sapphire crystals for unobstructed views of the sunburst dials or the versions finished with 15 layers of transparent […] Visit The Refined And Reworked IWC Portugieser Automatic 42 - Plus New Dial Colors For The Portugieser Automatic 40 And Chronograph to read the full article.
Deployant
Vacheron Constantin introduces a host of new timepieces for 2024, including one Haute Joaillerie piece. These novelties include new variations of the Overseas, Traditionelle Tourbillon Chronograph, Patrimony Manual-Winding, Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date and Égérie Moon Phase, as well the Égérie The Pleats of Time concept watch and Haute Joaillerie Grand Lady Kalla. Vacheron ConstantinRead More
SJX Watches
Cartier’s suite of Animal Jewellery watches unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2024 includes the striking Pebble “Tigre”. Described by its maker as inspired by “an imaginary encounter between zebra and crocodile that… is both graphic and organic”, the watch is essentially a Pebble with a double-layer bezel decorated in lacquer and precious stones. Watch aficionados will be disappointed that it is a traditional jewellery watch – more jewellery than watch – and the movement inside is quartz. Initial thoughts Thematically, the new Pebble is similar to the Crash Tigre with its abstract, animal-patterned cased. Though it’s in keeping with Cartier’s tradition of animal-inspired jewellery watches, the new Pebble is nonetheless surprising since it’s a striking departure from the traditional Pebble. The watch is slightly larger than the conventional Pebble, particularly in terms of thickness, but it’s still relatively compact. But it has instant presence thanks to the extravagant decoration. It’s unfortunately that the movement is quartz, but that is typical for most of Cartier’s high jewellery watches. This will limit its appeal for mechanical watch enthusiasts, but fans of Cartier’s jewelled form watches will appreciate the design and execution. The Cartier Crash Tigre Wild things The Animal Jewellery collection of 2024 is made up of watches modelled on animals that are a recurring theme in Cartier jewellery, namely panthers, crocodiles, and tigers. Most ...
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne is marking 25 years of its landmark chronograph of 1999 with the Datograph Up/Down “25th Anniversary”, a limited edition that’s a subtle but significant variation of the familiar model. The anniversary Datograph sports a dark blue dial matched with a white gold case that contains the much loved L951.6 movement. Limited to 125 pieces, the new model joins the regular production versions in platinum and pink gold (both with black dials) that remain in the catalogue. And it’s the more affordable of the anniversary editions, with the flagship being the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen”. Initial thoughts While the anniversary Datograph doesn’t seem like much on the face of it, the colour and material is fairly unique for the model. The Datograph has only ever been offered in platinum, pink or yellow gold, and never before with a blue dial (except on one occasion). Though left unstated in the official announcement, the blue dial is clearly a reference to a unique example of the first-generation Datograph that had a blue dial, something that fans of the brand will appreciate. Moreover, the Datograph is rarely iterated as a limited edition. This is only the third Datograph limited edition (following the Datograph Lumen of 2019), leaving aside gem-set models. Consequently, there’s a lot to like about this, with a big caveat. As comparably-priced alternative to the regular production models, this is a compelling proposition. However, ...
SJX Watches
Perhaps the complication most associated with IWC, the perpetual calendar with its distinctive four-digit year display was introduced in 1985 in the Da Vinci. Today IWC takes the “perpetual” concept to its maximum with the Portugieser Eternal Calendar that boasts a supercharged perpetual calendar, otherwise known as a secular calendar, requiring no adjustment for a thousand years. In addition, it is equipped with a moon phase of unprecedented accuracy – a day in 45 million years. Initial thoughts Even though it appears similar to the standard Portugieser Perpetual Calendar – though it is slightly thicker and wider – the Eternal Calendar is an appealing and note-worthy proposition in terms of its technical merits. The rare complication, however, comes at preposterously steep price. Discreetly dressed in the classic Portugieser case, but the Eternal Calendar reveals a modern twist in the form of the glass dial that shows off the calendar works underneath. To accomplish that, the movement employs a sapphire bridge in the calendar module, marking the first time IWC is using the material as a structural element in a calibre. The extensive use of sapphire hints at the impressive technicality of the movement, giving a sense of tangibility to the mechanics within. And the mechanics are certainly worth admiring. An “eternal” or secular calendar complication is appealing, for both the mechanical inclined and even the plain romantic who wants something that will go on...
SJX Watches
For the 25th anniversary of the Datograph, A. Lange & Söhne is celebrating in a big way with the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen”. Given the milestone anniversary, it’s fitting to see the most technically exceptional Datograph delivered in the appealing Honeygold “Lumen” format first seen in 2021 with the Zeitwerk. This is the ultimate anniversary Datograph, with a price to match. The 25th anniversary, however, is also being marked with the more affordable Datograph Up/Down in white gold. Initial thoughts It’s hard to overstate the impact that the original Datograph had on fine watchmaking – specifically the construction of high-end chronograph movements – since its debut in 1999. Much has been written about this moment, but in short this is an anniversary worth celebrating. As good as the “Lumen” is, and it’s nearly faultless, I expected more from Lange. At the end of the day it’s a combination of known elements, so the end result is not groundbreaking. That said, there isn’t much I’d change. The underlying L951 calibre remains best-in-class after a quarter of a century, and the tourbillon version, which has now been in production for nine years, is executed masterfully. Given the degree of complication and Lange’s proclivity for making big, sturdy watches, the proportions are actually not that bad. While known to be a bit top heavy, the overall dimensions are not outside the norm, especially for a watch of this complexit...
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