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The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Chronograph Gets a Solid Gold Movement SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Chronograph Gets Nov 15, 2024

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Chronograph Gets a Solid Gold Movement

Having reintroduced its reversible chronograph in steel or gold last year, Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) now does one better with the Reverso Tribute Chronograph in pink gold – with the case, dial, and movement bridges in pink gold. Featuring the double-sided display of the iconic design, the new chronograph has a solid gold dial laser-engraved with fine horizontal lines, while the open-worked dial on the reverse reveals the pink gold bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève. Initial thoughts The original Reverso Chronograph was launched in 1995, equipped with one of the first manually-wound integrated chronograph movements developed post-Quartz Crisis (I can only think of the Piguet cal. 1180 that was earlier), making it notable piece of horological history. The 1995 original was a limited edition of 500, so the revival of the movement last year, while not imaginative, was a good thing. The new Reverso Tribute Chronograph is a distinct variation of last’s year model that is no doubt superior thanks to its all-old execution, in contrast to regular-production version that features a movement with conventional rhodium-plated brass bridges. The use of a gold movement also brings to mind Reverso models of the 1990s and 2000s that employed similarly precious movements. Everything about the new Reverso Tribute Chronograph is appealing, except the price of US$66,000. It’s almost twice as expensive as the standard model in pink gold, which is difficult to justify even considering th...

Strap Review: Testing Out The New Delugs Sailcloth Straps Fratello
Nov 14, 2024

Strap Review: Testing Out The New Delugs Sailcloth Straps

The new Delugs sailcloth-patterned rubber straps are a refreshing addition to the brand’s repertoire, especially for collectors looking to add a more refined version of the sailcloth strap. First things first: these are not your typical ultra-modern, sports-performance sailcloth-style straps. They’re made with a nod toward traditional aesthetics and construction. A few things stand out […] Visit Strap Review: Testing Out The New Delugs Sailcloth Straps to read the full article.

Andreas Strehler Debuts Hand Engraved Faune et Flore SJX Watches
Nov 11, 2024

Andreas Strehler Debuts Hand Engraved Faune et Flore

Andreas Strehler, known for his complex movements, recruited master engraver Roman Houdek for a collection of floral-themed watches, the Faune et Flore. With each made to order, the timepieces of Faune et Flore are presented in Strehler’s signature ovoid Papillon case and powered by an in-house calibre. The dials are open worked and intricately hand engraved by Mr Houdek. Initial thoughts Though the new line is a departure from the brand’s usual focus on complications, free-hand engraving is no less of an achievement. An art that requires tremendous skill, it is refreshing to see Strehler attempt something different. Elaborate in style, the Faune et Flore departs from Strehler’s traditional aesthetic. While that may not appeal to technical-minded enthusiasts at first glance, the quality of the engraving is easily apparent and complements the case shape. Unsurprisingly given Mr Strehler’s technical talent, the engraved dials are not actually traditional dials. The engraved 18k gold plate serves as a functional bridge for the movement, supporting part of the going train and the two barrels. As a result, there are jewels set into the plate, which form decorative elements in the engraving. Because the engraved plate is functional as well as decorative, this construction requires even more careful work than a conventional engraved dial, in order to ensure the open-worked sections don’t compromise with integrity or flatness of the bridge. That in turn has to be balance...

Introducing – The New GoS by Martin Key, Sweden’s Prominent Fashion Designer Monochrome
Nov 11, 2024

Introducing – The New GoS by Martin Key, Sweden’s Prominent Fashion Designer

With Patrik Sjögren, the Master Watchmaker at the helm and Conny Persson, the Bladesmith producing the intricate hand-forged Damascus steel, the Swedish watchmaking brand GoS continues to amaze. Infusing Scandinavian folklore, nature themes and traditional crafts into their creations, GoS watches are distinguished by their intricate patterns and story-telling details. The new GoS timepiece is […]

Hot Take: The New De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon Fratello
De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon Oct 29, 2024

Hot Take: The New De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon

Today, we’ll briefly examine the new De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon, a thin titanium watch with a visible movement. Of course, it uses the brand’s characteristic spring-loaded, floating lugs that hug the wrist. It’s a lovely piece worth checking out! We spent time with De Bethune at Geneva Watch Days 2024 and saw several […] Visit Hot Take: The New De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon to read the full article.

Hand Engraved and Unique, the MB&F; LM Split Escapement “Eddy Jaquet” SJX Watches
MB&F; Oct 16, 2024

Hand Engraved and Unique, the MB&F; LM Split Escapement “Eddy Jaquet”

MB&F; is well known for its ability to consistently produce timepieces that are as much sculpture as technical marvels. In its latest collaboration, MB&F; leans heavily on the artisanal side of watchmaking, with a dose of literary influence. Executed by the namesake master engraver, the MB&F; Legacy Machine Split Escapement “Eddy Jaquet” is a limited series of eight unique pieces, each depicting a scene from famous novels, ranging from The Three Musketeers to Moby Dick. Initial thoughts The LM SE “Eddy Jaquet” is arguably a true, multifaceted work of art that just happens to be wearable. Mr Jaquet’s work is amongst the best, and the LM SE happens to be a perfect canvas for it thanks to the particular set up of the dial that leaves practically the entire dial disc free for engraving. Making such an ornate watch usually requires compromise in terms of time telling, with watchmakers often favouring an expansive decorated dial over prominent hands. The LM SE somehow manages to keep all of its sub-dials, along with the LM’s trademark exposed balance. These elements do not take away from the centrepiece, which is the engraved dial plate. The elaborate execution of the LM SE comes at a hefty price, CHF158,000, which is almost double the cost of a standard LM SE. A quiet master engraver While not a widely recognised name, Eddy Jaquet was actually one of the original “friends” of MB&F; since the brand’s early days. Back in 2011, he hand-engraved the names of Kari Vout...

Hands-On With The Nivada Grenchen Chronoking Mecaquartz Inter.bezel Fratello
Nivada Grenchen Chronoking Mecaquartz Inter.bezel Geneva Oct 11, 2024

Hands-On With The Nivada Grenchen Chronoking Mecaquartz Inter.bezel

Geneva Watch Days is the year’s second-largest watch fair after Watches and Wonders. While the brands, except for a slight overlap, are different, many journalists love the show for several reasons. Unlike the ultra-controlled Watches and Wonders event, GWD allows us to sit directly with brands and their watches in a laid-back, casual atmosphere. Often, […] Visit Hands-On With The Nivada Grenchen Chronoking Mecaquartz Inter.bezel to read the full article.

Exhibition: 30 Years of the Lange 1 in Singapore SJX Watches
Oct 11, 2024

Exhibition: 30 Years of the Lange 1 in Singapore

A. Lange & Söhne is marking the 30th anniversary of arguably its most famous wristwatch with an exhibition in Singapore. 30 Years of the Lange 1 will take place in ION Orchard October 24-29, 2024. Besides showcasing significant Lange 1 models, the exhibition also encompasses demonstrations by a master engraver from the Lange manufacture in Glashütte. The event is open to the public but registration is required. A cornerstone of the German brand since it was revived in 1994, the Lange 1 is defined by an orderly, yet asymmetrical dial with an outsized date and power reserve. The design instantly distinguished itself from practically everything else on the market at the time and became the “face” of the Lange 1. The exhibition will present the many variations of the Lange 1 introduced over the years, starting with the original yellow gold model of 1994. Also on show will be the 10-piece Lange 1 “25th Anniversary” series, as well as less common models like the Lange 1 “Luminous”, which is not part of the now-famous Lumen series and instead was originally conceived as a sporty Lange watch. Present daily at the exhibition will be an artisan from Lange’s engraving department, which is responsible for the hand-engraved balance cocks found in all Lange movements. Armed with a fine-tipped burin, the artisan will demonstrate the art of engraving, just as it is done at the manufacture in Glashütte. Finally, the exhibition will also debut video interviews of Lange owne...

Tissot Revives the Cheap-and-Cheerful Stylist SJX Watches
Tissot Revives Oct 10, 2024

Tissot Revives the Cheap-and-Cheerful Stylist

Released in 1965 as an inexpensive watch for young people, the Tissot Stylist has just been brought back to life for the same reason. Featuring a minimalist, retro aesthetic with a cushion-shaped case, the Stylist is thin at 7 mm high and contains a quartz movement. Retailing for just US$275, the Stylist is one of the most affordable offerings from an establishment Swiss brand, putting it in the same price range as startup micro-brands sold only online. Initial thoughts Tissot is a Swiss brand with a noteworthy history, but now focuses on (very) affordable watches. Though the Stylist is a basic proposition – steel and quartz – it fits perfectly into the Tissot value equation. The Stylist is a vintage-inspired design with a historical basis – and history is something micro-brands lack – at an extremely low price. The version with a gradient blue dial is particularly retro and appealing. For the teenage (or even child) watch enthusiast, this is a good choice. Retro blue The original Stylist was actually a line of various watches launched in 1965 as a watch for the young. Available in a range of case shapes, the Stylist was conceived to be trendy and affordable. The modern Stylist is modelled on one of the cushion-shaped originals, and retains the compact sizing of the original. Its stainless steel case is 32 mm in diameter and just 7 mm. Though basic, the case has a robust modern construction. It is fitted with a sapphire crystal and water resistant to 50 m. Notably,...

Omega Launches New Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” With Cal. 3861 Two Broke Watch Snobs
Omega Launches New Speedmaster “First Oct 3, 2024

Omega Launches New Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” With Cal. 3861

If you thought Omega had reached its limit with vintage Speedmaster reissues, think again. Meet the latest revival in the iconic line: the new Omega Speedmaster First Omega in Space Anniversary Series. Powered by the cutting-edge Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 3861, this release isn’t just about the movement-it's a nod to a bygone era, with a twist.

Omega Revives the Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” with Cal. 3861 SJX Watches
Omega Revives Oct 3, 2024

Omega Revives the Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” with Cal. 3861

Omega is reissuing the Speedmaster CK2998 with the Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” that’s powered by powered by the latest-generation Moonwatch movement, the Co-Axial Master Chronometer cal. 3861. But the “First Omega in Space” (FOIS) is also a keen-eyed remake of the original and sports a detail enthusiasts will appreciate: the stepped dial is a subtle grey-blue dial that replicates the unique colour found on certain vintage Speedmasters made in the 1960s. Initial thoughts Omega issues enough vintage-inspired Speedmaster models that even someone familiar with watches like myself is sometimes confused. For the uninitiated, the FOIS and Speedmaster 321 “Ed White” will look very similar, but for the enthusiasts the distinction is clear. That said, the FOIS is one of the most appealing recent Speedmasters. The attention to detail in design is obvious and impressive. Moreover it’s a vintage remake with a twist: the grey-blue dial is esoteric enough that it looks different, but still a detail that Speedmaster fans will appreciate. The faux-vintage lume is a bit too much, but from a design perspective it works as the parchment lume complements the grey-blue dial. Add to that Omega’s typically high quality and relatively affordable price – this is marginally less expensive than the Moonwatch cal. 3861 with a sapphire crystal – and the new FOIS is both compelling and good value. CK 2998 returns The second Speedmaster model after the CK2915, the CK2998 was ...

Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon Jaeger-LeCoultre Sep 25, 2024

Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon

Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) debuts the revamped Duometre line earlier this year, including the Duometre Chronograph Moon (and the entry-level Quantieme Lunaire). The watch incorporates almost every possible complication, some clever and others barely related, to create a chronograph that incudes a host of other simple functions, ranging from a day-night indicator to twin power reserves. Traditionally, the Duometre was centred on the chronograph, which makes this the line’s flagship model. It’s essentially an evolution of the first-generation model, retaining a chronograph mechanism that is compact and clever, but gains additional complications that feel extraneous. The platinum model gets a copper or “salmon” dial Initial thoughts The Duometre Chronograph Moon reflects many of JLC’s strengths, particularly as a movement maker. The movement inside is the sophisticated cal. 391 that makes logical use of the two-train construction to power a smartly designed chronograph mechanism. Visually, the movement is appealing and boasts quality, workmanlike finishing with details like a free-sprung balance and grande sonnerie-style winding clicks. Although it is industrial haute horlogerie, the calibre is clearly best in class. The cal. 391 Both barrels each sport grande sonnerie-style winding clicks But the cal. 391 is nearly identical to the cal. 380 found in the first-generation Duometre introduced in 2007. While it is an accomplished movement, the cal. 391 is hardly novel. Ins...

First Look – The Extraterrestrial Meteorite Dial of the De Bethune DB28XS Aérolite Monochrome
De Bethune DB28XS Aérolite Many Sep 24, 2024

First Look – The Extraterrestrial Meteorite Dial of the De Bethune DB28XS Aérolite

Many of De Bethune’s watches reveal master watchmaker Denis Flageollet’s passion for outer space. Who could forget his interplanetary delta-shaped spaceship known as the Dream Watch 5 or his heat-blued titanium models that evoke the mystery of our cosmos? Flageollet is also drawn to extraterrestrial materials like iron meteorites, particularly fragments of the famous Muonionalusta […]

New releases from TAG Heuer, Schwarz Etienne, Jaeger-LeCoultre and more Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Sep 21, 2024

New releases from TAG Heuer, Schwarz Etienne, Jaeger-LeCoultre and more

After the short break we had following the Geneva Watch Days, we have a start in activity from all levels of brands. TAG Heuer is launching a vintage-flavoured green racing Monaco, Schwarz Etienne is having a colourful blast on its Geometry model, and JLC is again proving why it’s named Watchmakers’ Watchmaker. Also, our close … ContinuedThe post New releases from TAG Heuer, Schwarz Etienne, Jaeger-LeCoultre and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing – AP Unveils Chroma Forged Technology, a Coloured & Lumed Forged Carbon for the ROC Split-Seconds Monochrome
Audemars Piguet ROC collection has used Sep 20, 2024

Introducing – AP Unveils Chroma Forged Technology, a Coloured & Lumed Forged Carbon for the ROC Split-Seconds

With its ultra-contemporary design, the Royal Oak Concept collection has always been a vessel for innovation at AP, and that since its creation in 2002. First with a cobalt-based super-alloy (Alacrite 602), the Audemars Piguet ROC collection has used some of the brand’s most complex movements, daring designs or advanced materials. Now, it’s time for […]

Tissot Introduces Compelling new PRX References that Play with Materials and Colors in New Ways Worn & Wound
Tissot Introduces Compelling new PRX Sep 12, 2024

Tissot Introduces Compelling new PRX References that Play with Materials and Colors in New Ways

Confession time: I’ve long been something of a Tissot PRX skeptic. The ultra popular watches have found a wide and enthusiastic audience, but for me they always seemed just a little too much like a Royal Oak homage. I know, I know – they are based on watches from the Tissot back catalog and a side by side comparison reveals plenty of obvious differences. It’s a somewhat irrational position, perhaps, but they feel a little too close for comfort if observed from a distance. But Tissot recently revealed a pair of new watches in the PRX line that took me by surprise in how much I was immediately drawn to them, and taken together they are possibly the most unconventional and visually striking watches in this collection to date.  There’s a huge variety of PRX watches out there – it’s a line that has become the centerpiece of Tissot’s expansive catalog in recent years. There are quartz and mechanical versions of these watches in multiple sizes (40mm and 35mm), as well as a mechanical chronograph. Tissot has also made the PRX in a dizzying array of colors, with gold plated case options as well. The newly introduced variants fall in the PRX Powermatic 80 camp, so they feature Tissot’s 80 hour automatic movement, and each comes in at the 40mm size.  The release that seemed to garner the most traction from the most online members of the watch community was the new PRX with a forged carbon case. This is the first time forged carbon has been used in a PRX, and it imme...

For Those Who Just Want It Both Ways: Seiko Offers Three Prospex Speedtimer GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph Models Fratello
Seiko Offers Three Prospex Speedtimer Sep 11, 2024

For Those Who Just Want It Both Ways: Seiko Offers Three Prospex Speedtimer GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph Models

Do you want to hunt with the hounds and run with the hare? In that case, Seiko has got you covered. What? Is that too cryptic for you? If you want an ultra-precise quartz watch that connects to GPS satellites circling the globe and takes its energy from light but looks like a traditional, mechanical […] Visit For Those Who Just Want It Both Ways: Seiko Offers Three Prospex Speedtimer GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph Models to read the full article.

Fratello’s Top 5 Gentlemen’s GMT Watches - From Grand Seiko, Parmigiani Fleurier, Lorca, And More Fratello
Parmigiani Fleurier Lorca Sep 6, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Gentlemen’s GMT Watches - From Grand Seiko, Parmigiani Fleurier, Lorca, And More

Another Friday, another list! This week, we look at five gentlemen’s GMT watches that stand out because of their distinguished presence. These aren’t your typical Rolex GMT-Master-influenced timepieces. No, this is a list of the more classical-looking GMTs, multi-time-zone/traveler’s watches that fly a little more under the radar. So don’t expect any colorful rotating bezels […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Gentlemen’s GMT Watches - From Grand Seiko, Parmigiani Fleurier, Lorca, And More to read the full article.

First Look – The Compact and Striking new De Bethune DB28XS Steel Wheels Monochrome
De Bethune DB28XS Steel Wheels What Sep 5, 2024

First Look – The Compact and Striking new De Bethune DB28XS Steel Wheels

What happens when you cross De Bethune’s compact DB28XS with the looks and transparency of the DB28XP Steel Wheels? The answer, revealed during Geneva Watch Days, is this stunning, polarizing, fascinating DB28XS Steel Wheels. As master watchmaker and founder of the De Bethune brand, Denis Flageollet points out, this is not merely an exercise in […]

Hot Take: Brand-New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport References Fratello
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport Sep 5, 2024

Hot Take: Brand-New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport References

TAG Heuer isn’t shying away from ultra-modern styling lately. Or, I should say, the brand offers a choice of modern and classic watches, even within the racing-themed Carrera line. For those who tend to prefer vintage looks, there is the Carrera Glassbox. If, however, you are more into futuristic designs, we have something for you […] Visit Hot Take: Brand-New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport References to read the full article.

Grand Seiko Marks 20 Years of Spring Drive 9R SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Marks 20 Years Sep 5, 2024

Grand Seiko Marks 20 Years of Spring Drive 9R

Grand Seiko’s debuted its first-ever Spring Drive movement in 2004 with the cal. 9R65. Now the brand is marking 20 years of the 9R Spring Drive movement family with the Elegance Collection SBGY035 and SBGA499, both sporting striking red dials inspired by the sunlit autumn scenery around Mount Hotaka. Part of the Thin Dress Series, the SBGY035 is flat and elegant, with a domed, textured dial. On the other hand, SBGA499 employs the classic Grand Seiko case and bracelet, matched with a sunburst-brushed dial in red that has the signature Spring Drive power reserve indicator at eight o’clock. The SBGA499 Initial thoughts I am a Grand Seiko fanboy. The brand offers a strong value proposition across its catalogue. Furthermore, Spring Drive is synonymous with Grand Seiko. The hybrid approach of Spring Drive means it boasts quartz-level accuracy despite being having an entirely mechanical mainspring and gear train. The new pair are perfect representations of Grand Seiko’s approach to horology, both good and bad. The two watches are striking, especially since red isn’t a colour often employed by Grand Seiko. The SBGY035 in particular stands out since the textured red dial is uncommon for Grand Seiko and dress watches in general. The SBGY035 That said, Grand Seiko’s limited editions feel too frequent, especially since many are only colour variations of each other. This is a regular criticism of Grand Seiko, but it hasn’t dampened sales of such limited editions, which pro...

Roundup: Pilot’s Watches, An Affordable Perpetual Calendar, and Great Deal on Bauhaus-Inspired Design Worn & Wound
Laco s newest pilot chronograph Sep 1, 2024

Roundup: Pilot’s Watches, An Affordable Perpetual Calendar, and Great Deal on Bauhaus-Inspired Design

Laco’s newest pilot chronograph blends the German brand’s aviation heritage into a modern ultra-capable tool watch. With one foot planted in the past and the other in the future, the Kiel Sport is a contemporary take on the classic Flieger, weaving a Type A dial into a tri-compax chronograph. Laco’s newest pilot chronograph blends the German brand’s aviation heritage into a modern ultra-capable tool watch. With one foot planted in the past and the other in the future, the Kiel Sport is a contemporary take on the classic Flieger, weaving a Type A dial into a tri-compax chronograph. The post Roundup: Pilot’s Watches, An Affordable Perpetual Calendar, and Great Deal on Bauhaus-Inspired Design appeared first on Worn & Wound.