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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

The Holiday Gift Guide to Finding Something for Everyone with Fossil Worn & Wound
Fossil Nov 13, 2023

The Holiday Gift Guide to Finding Something for Everyone with Fossil

With the Holidays coming up quickly, at times it can be extremely difficult to find that ideal special something for everyone in your life. Our friends at Fossil have worked to make it a bit easier to find a gift for anyone and everyone-from an absolute icon, like the Disney x Fossil Special Edition Classic Mickey Mouse Watch to a goes-with-anything daily carry solution like the Lennox Messenger. With this list, you’re sure to discover the perfect present for just about anybody. Released the same year as The Walt Disney Company’s 100 Year Anniversary, this special-edition Classic Disney Mickey Mouse Watch is the crown jewel in the new Disney Fossil Collection. It’s the modern take on one of the most iconic products in horology. It’s the gift that every Disney or watch enthusiast will love as it simply oozes the concept simply know as… collectibility. It boasts a Japanese automatic movement, which can be spot through both its display caseback, as well as a small aperture on the dial at the 8 o’clock position. It also comes complete with a 40mm stainless steel case, a black Italian leather strap, a white glossy dial, and Disney’s Mickey Mouse print with those instantly recognizable, white-gloved hour and minute hands. It’s guaranteed to bring a smile to anyone’s face. The Lennox Messenger in Medium Brown is a slick, modern take on a timeless carry solution. It’s perfect for anyone with an on-the-go soul who needs that professional vibe, but wants someth...

REVIEW: Hands On With The Aventi Golden Tiger WatchAdvice
Nov 11, 2023

REVIEW: Hands On With The Aventi Golden Tiger

The Aventi Golden Tiger is a watch that will definitely turn heads and have people stop you to ask, “What are you wearing?” What We Love Hand-engraved Sapphire and 24K Tiger head!Sapphire caseWrist presence What We Don’t The buckle doesn’t sit flush with the strapIt takes a while to wear the strap inIt will be large for some people Overall Rating: 8.25/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 7.5/10Design: 8.5/10Build quality: 9/10 Aventi is a brand that has grown from strength to strength over the past few years. Aventi has gone from its small beginnings here in Australia to now being a fully-fledged Swiss manufacturer, using some of the best watchmakers and techniques in the business with a unique and disruptive business model. The Aventi Goolden Tiger is a piece that needs to be seen up close and personal to appreciate it fully. The brand has partnered with a range of watchmakers and component producers, some of the best in the industry, and utilises their on-demand system for their higher-end pieces, ensuring the quality isn’t compromised and that each piece is finished to the highest standards. In addition, their Aventi GT-01S Calibre is a Swiss Made hand-wound Tourbillon movement with an accuracy of -4/+4 seconds per day, which is greater than COSC. Initial Thoughts Given Watch Advice’s founder, Chamath (@champsg), has the Aventi Wraith in Sapphite, and having worn in and played around with it many times, I was confident in what I was getting myself into with...

[VIDEO] Hands-On With the Extreme Oris Aquis Pro 4000M Worn & Wound
Omega Planet Ocean Ultra Deep Nov 10, 2023

[VIDEO] Hands-On With the Extreme Oris Aquis Pro 4000M

Oris has a seriously capable modern diver on their hands with the Aquis. What’s more, they’ve created an original design that’s easily associated with the brand in the process. Oris have dabbled into more niche diver territory with things like the Aquis Depth Gauge, but never into extreme realms. Until now, that is. This year, Oris has upgraded the Aquis Pro from a 1000M diver, to a 4000M diver. The change doesn’t make much practical difference for most of us, but adds a heap of bragging rights to the Aquis name as it joins some elite company in the world of ultra-deep divers. The new Aquis Pro is a statement from Oris, and places the watch within a unique niche of the dive acth genre in the process.  Ultra deep dive watches are a strange breed. Not only are they tricky to design and build, they’re also quite hard to pressure test properly without highly specialized equipment. We’ve seen brands go as far as building their own apparatus to validate depth ratings, particularly as they go beyond 3,000 meters, or 10,000 feet. In the case of the deepest divers, like the Omega Planet Ocean Ultra Deep and the Rolex Deepsea Challenge, which both go well beyond 10,000 meters, or 30,000 feet, pressure testing is rigorous and complex, and can even involve real world validation strapped to the exterior of vessels traveling to the depths of the sea. $6200 [VIDEO] Hands-On With the Extreme Oris Aquis Pro 4000M Case Titanium Movement Oris caliber 400 Dial Blue wave degrade L...

Nomos Issues the Classic Tangente in a Limited Gold Version Worn & Wound
Nomos Issues Nov 9, 2023

Nomos Issues the Classic Tangente in a Limited Gold Version

In their ongoing “175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte” series, Nomos has finally unveiled a watch that we’re frankly surprised has never existed before, but makes perfect sense right now. The Tangente Rose Gold Neomatik is a precious metal limited edition version of what is indisputably the brand’s most iconic design. In any kind of celebratory context, you’d expect the Tangente to play a lead role, and now, after limited versions of the Orion and Ludwig, the Tangente gets its own luxurious turn.  The 175 Years campaign has actually been ongoing since 2020, when a trio of stainless steel Lambdas were introduced. That release was notable because the Lambda had always been available only in solid gold, so a steel version was of particular interest to Nomos collectors who prize the brand’s watches for their great value. This release, in a way, is the inverse of the Lambda limited editions, with a model that is very much associated with stainless steel being introduced in gold. It makes a lot of sense for the Tangente, often cited as the most directly Bauhaus inspired watch in the Nomos catalog, to get this kind of treatment. In steel the straight lugs matched with the circular case appear almost severe, but the whole package has a warmer and more inviting sensibility in rose gold. It still looks delicate and impossibly precise, now just with a notably more luxe feel.  The dial for this version is inspired by early watches made in Glashütte, and beyond tying this r...

The Fourth Mathey-Tissot Collaboration with Massena LAB is a Colorful Tribute to 1968 Worn & Wound
Massena Lab Nov 9, 2023

The Fourth Mathey-Tissot Collaboration with Massena LAB is a Colorful Tribute to 1968

Now in their fourth collaboration together, Swiss brand Mathey-Tissot and Massena LAB have once again brought their individual strengths to give us the Chronograph ‘68. This vintage-inspired watch is the best of both worlds: providing a great timepiece, while also being a stylish, vintage inspired accessory for anyone looking for an upgrade to their wrist rotation. The impetus for this watch’s design comes from the tumultuous year of 1968. As Mathey-Tissot recounts the various cultural shifts during this period in history, one really has the sense that there was a dramatic change happening as the world was preparing to ring in a new decade. Mathey-Tissot and Massena cite events like Arthur Ashe’s historic victory at the U.S. Open and the emergence of “mod” culture in London as important cultural touchstones from the year, and the Chronograph ‘68 exists as a kind of tribute to a very specific point in history by adhering to particular aesthetic choices rooted in late ‘60s watch design. To commemorate this period, Mathey-Tissot and Massena LAB looked at various reference points of watches that were sold during the 1960’s. The result is an amalgamation of design elements that work seamlessly together to make a timeless watch that could easily be made today or 60 years ago. From the black dial against the 41mm stainless steel case, to the reflective hour markers, to the three colorful registers in red, white, and blue, the balance of neutral design and pops of ...

The 17 Best Dive Watches Under $500 Teddy Baldassarre
Nov 3, 2023

The 17 Best Dive Watches Under $500

Dive watches continue to reign as one of the most popular timepiece styles out there, and the sheer breadth of choices in that genre - in the areas of size, design, colorway, and especially pricing - can be intimidating to the new watch enthusiast who might be just on the verge of taking the plunge (you should pardon the expression) into purchasing their first dive watch. Here we've gathered a dozen of our favorites with the budget-conscious consumer in mind: everything on this list can be had for $500 or under. (In a few cases, even though the MSRP comes in higher, you can acquire them below the $500 threshold directly from our online store; just follow the shopping links.) Casio Duro Price: $74.95, Case Size: 48.5mm x 44.2mm, Case Height: 12.1mm, Crystal: Mineral, Water Resistance: 200 meters, Movement: Quartz Analog Outside of its mega-popular G-Shock series (see directly below), It’s tempting to pigeonhole Casio as a maker of solely digital watches, but the brand also offers a handful of analog timepieces at similarly mass-market prices. Consider the Casio Duro, the Japanese manufacturer’s series of round-cased, analog-dial dive watches. At this very pedestrian price range, it is difficult to find a diver that offers what the Duro offers: a well-finished steel case, rotating dive-scale bezel with aluminum insert, 200-meter water resistance, and sunburst dial with lume-coated hands and indexes. The screw-down caseback sports an image of a Marlin, which als...

[VIDEO] Review: The Delightfully Odd Longines HydroConquest GMT Worn & Wound
Longines HydroConquest GMT Watches Nov 2, 2023

[VIDEO] Review: The Delightfully Odd Longines HydroConquest GMT

Watches that break from conventional wisdom tend to provide the most memorable experiences on the wrist. We search out such examples around here and embrace new watches that aren’t afraid to cut against the grain in some way, shape, or form. Doing so presents a risk for brands, particularly large, well established brands. A by-the-numbers design meant to appeal to the largest possible swath of the population must, by definition, be as inoffensive as possible. Deviation from the template risks putting out a percentage of would-be buyers, but it also creates grounds for differentiation, a necessity in today’s crowded landscape of watch brands young and old. Achieving balance here means a design that’s unique and exciting, while being accessible enough to sell to enough people to make it work financially.  Generally, the larger the brand the safer they play with this equation. But that’s not always the case, as many large brands still produce polarizing yet recognizable watches that have a focused appeal to a group of die hard fans. I’ll let you conjure up your own examples of watches that fall into this category. One such testament is the Longines HydroConquest, a watch with a big personality that’s been emblematic of the era it was originally designed in, the mid ‘00s. Longines was ahead of the game when it introduced the HydroConquest in 2007, presenting a fully modern, forward looking take on a serious dive watch at Baselworld, and even offered in both 39 a...

The Studio Underd0g 02Series Field is now available for pre-orders Time+Tide
Studio Underd0g Nov 2, 2023

The Studio Underd0g 02Series Field is now available for pre-orders

Following the highly anticipated launch of the brand’s new design, the Studio Underd0g Field collection is finally available for pre-orders. Though they’re by no means your bog-standard, military issue field watch, the Pink Lem0nade, Steffany Blue, Full Mo0n and Midnight models bring a unique dial construction to the table, alongside plenty of lume. Enquire about … ContinuedThe post The Studio Underd0g 02Series Field is now available for pre-orders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ming Surprises with What Could Be the Lightest Watches Ever Made Worn & Wound
Ming Oct 27, 2023

Ming Surprises with What Could Be the Lightest Watches Ever Made

If you spend enough time writing about watches, you’ll eventually be nearly blinded to all of the press releases touting world records of some kind. Sometimes it feels like a month doesn’t go by that a brand isn’t touting a watch that is the thinnest ever, the lightest ever, the most water resistant ever, the most complicated, and various permutations and combinations of all the above. Almost always, these record setters come from big brands, with years of research and untold amounts of historical backing behind them. So it was with considerable interest that we saw a message from Ming earlier this week, advising that they’ve just made the lightest mechanical wristwatches ever. Or, they probably have. A “record” wasn’t exactly claimed, but the watches are really, really light.  The LW.01 emerges from their Special Projects Cave, the skunkworks operation that sees Ming doing their most experimental work. The goal here was to simply make the lightest watch they could using the resources available to them, while keeping it wearable and practical in the manner of other Mings. The process took years, but the result is a (possible) record breaker that, somewhat astoundingly, is still immediately recognizable as a Ming first and foremost.  With ultrathin and ultralight watches, the process always seems to start with case construction, as this is a component of the watch where mass can most easily be engineered away. The LW.01 forgoes traditional case construction ...

Panerai Leans Traditional with the Radiomir Officine PAM01385 SJX Watches
Panerai Leans Traditional Oct 27, 2023

Panerai Leans Traditional with the Radiomir Officine PAM01385

Pared back in style, this vintage-inspired limited edition from Panerai takes a simple approach in revisiting a historical design. With a faux-aged dial colour and conical crown, the Radiomir Officine PAM01385 celebrates the anniversary of the original Radiomir prototype of 1935. Priced well at just over US$5,000, it’s a limited edition with just 300 examples being made.  Initial thoughts  The execution of this is clean and will please those who appreciate historical Panerai design. There is nothing added on that doesn’t need to be there, and there are small details which play to those who know their Panerai history. It’s not an exact remake of a vintage model, but has a functional aesthetic that sticks to the spirit of the originals. As an aside, while I’ve never been a fan of mock ageing, the “tropical” dial is an even colour that doesn’t have a fake gradient to it, and so it can arguably be seen as a simple colour choice, rather than recreating faded pigment.  Another notable detail is the 45 mm case. Oversized by most standards, it’s actually more compact than the average historical Radiomir as well as modern-day remakes, which were usually 47 mm. This makes it more wearable, while still looking big enough to retain the Panerai feel. Given the historical background of this design, and the appealing, no-frills design, the price of US$5,400 is good value, particularly when compared against Panerai models like the Radiomir California. With just 300 piec...

TAG Heuer Brings Vintage Charm with the Carrera “Glassbox” in Yellow Gold SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Brings Vintage Charm Oct 24, 2023

TAG Heuer Brings Vintage Charm with the Carrera “Glassbox” in Yellow Gold

The Carrera line takes a luxurious turn with a new chronograph sporting a yellow gold case and matching yellow gold-plated dial, complemented by contrasting matte black sub-dials. The Carrera Chronograph “Glassbox” pays homage to a similar creation from the 1960s, the Carrera ref. 1158 CHN, which is known among collectors for its bold, all-gold design. Initial thoughts A precious metal sports watch often sparks debate about the relevance of the case material, particularly for brands not typically associated with pure luxury. However, TAG Heuer’s decision to execute its new Glassbox in the memorable “John Player Special” colour scheme of gold and black inspired by the ref. 1158 CHN is commendable. Moreover, it is a logical next step for TAG Heuer following the recent unveiling of the Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche, which is also available in rose gold.  This fusion of heritage and refinement brings a unique and distinguished touch to the ordinarily functional Carrera. The result is an appealing chronograph with a hint of vintage luxury that effectively showcases the distinctive Glassbox case.  The price tag for the gold Carrera is comparable to that of the rose gold Chronosprint x Porsche, which means the price is expected and appropriate though not quite a bargain. However, the Chronosprint boasts a more complex movement, making it a better value proposition – though the new Carrera is certainly more appealing in terms of design. The legendary gold Carrera 11...

Fears Brings Mother of Pearl to the Brunswick, But Not In the Way You Might Expect Worn & Wound
Formex has used it Oct 20, 2023

Fears Brings Mother of Pearl to the Brunswick, But Not In the Way You Might Expect

Fears continues to expand their classic Brunswick collection with the release of two new references: one of which brings their beautiful copper salmon dial to the 40mm case, and another called Aurora, which subverts expectations around mother of pearl dials. The new watches follow the brand’s subtle yet distinctive design language, feeling familiar yet new at the same time. Mother of pearl likely elicits a very specific reaction, but Fears looks to change that with the new Aurora, placing it within more neutral territory, accessible to both masculine and feminine sensibilities.  While I’m not sure that this will become a trend, this isn’t the first time we’ve seen this material used in unexpected ways. Oris has found creative ways to bring this treatment to their Aquis, and even Formex has used it in their Essence 39. In both instances, the mother of pearl element is given an accent color, and it’s the same case with this new Brunswick from Fears. There are blue tones at work on multiple levels of the dial, creating a slight deviation between the outer and inner portions. Mother of pearl is a dynamic material that shifts in appearance quite easily, from any angle, and in any light. It’s the perfect expression of a similar phenomenon, the aurora (borealis in the north, australis in the south), an ever changing interaction between the solar wind and the earth’s magnetosphere. Each brings a quality that’s difficult to capture in a moment, or describe in words...

Habring2 Introduces the Shellman 50th Anniversary Black “Gilt” SJX Watches
Oct 20, 2023

Habring2 Introduces the Shellman 50th Anniversary Black “Gilt”

Following the anniversary edition with a silvered “sector” dial, Tokyo retailer Shellman announces another small-run limited edition with the Habring² Shellman 50th Anniversary “Black”. Available as a chronograph or time-only, the new edition is limited to just 15 watches each. It retains the dial design of the earlier edition, but now in a black “gilt” finish and matched with a stepped bezel. Initial thoughts Vintage-inspired “sector” dials aren’t novel at all, but the new Shellman duo, like the original edition, stand out for their details. At the same time, the fact that they are Habring² means the price-performance ratio is excellent. Amongst the details that make this appealing are the applied markers, gold-powder print, as well as the matched silvered hands for the chronograph. These reveal an attention to detail in the design – unsurprising since Shellman is a respected seller of vintage watches – proving the whole here is greater than the sum of the parts. Though these are slightly more expensive than the first edition – the price is up about 10% – both models now include a steel bracelet. Add to that the weak Japanese yen, and these are a greater value buy than the original pair. Vintage-inspired Created to mark Shellman’s 50th anniversary, the original silver dial model was a nod to the retailer’s 2017 Habring² limited edition – which was launched well before “sector” dials became a fad. The new pair continue with the same ...

Studio Underd0g Unveils their Second Collection, a Contemporary Take on the Field Watch (with Plenty of Lume) Worn & Wound
Studio Underd0g Oct 17, 2023

Studio Underd0g Unveils their Second Collection, a Contemporary Take on the Field Watch (with Plenty of Lume)

Studio Underd0g has been charming watch enthusiasts with their colorful chronographs for the last few years, and at long last they’ve announced their follow up effort. This is a somewhat tall order – their chronos were hits in the collector community like few other watches can claim to be, largely a result of their total originality and the brand’s commitment to fully exploring their own design language. Their “Watermelon” chronograph is perhaps their most well known watch, but they’ve released many other equally colorful and exciting chronos, most of which are similarly inspired by the vivid colors of our favorite foods. “Mint Chocolate Chip” and “Strawberries and Cream” immediately come to mind, but their chronograph has been available in a rainbow of appetizing colors since its inception. With their new collection, Studio Underd0g is approaching color in a different way, and via a different platform, that’s simultaneously a little more traditional and also, in some ways, more transgressive.  The 02Series Field Collection from Studio Underd0g is their take on a classic field watch, with the hypothetical design brief being that the British Ministry of Defense has asked Studio Underd0g to create a reliable watch for the armed forces fighting in World War II. This, of course, is a familiar idea, and it’s a strange coincidence that this seems to be the season of contemporary British brands providing their own unique twist on something that’s existe...

REVIEW: Adding A Bit Of Sophistication With The Speake-Marin Ripples Original WatchAdvice
Speake-Marin Oct 14, 2023

REVIEW: Adding A Bit Of Sophistication With The Speake-Marin Ripples Original

If you’re after a sporty chic watch that will set you apart, the limited production Speak-Marin Ripples Original in black could be the out of the box choice! What We Love The ripple effect dialThinness of the caseWears extremely comfortable What We Don’t Bracelet clasp is tricky to undoLack of water resistanceNo lume on the dial Overall Rating: 8.625/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 9/10Design: 8.5/10Build quality: 9/10 When it comes to the world of watches, the smaller independents often come second to the larger mass luxury brands. With the exception of a few high Haute Horology Maisons, many are overlooked by collectors and buyers alike. Partly due to the lack of mainstream brand presence, i.e marketing dollars, and partly due to the entry pricing of them, with many starting in the 10s of thousands of dollars. But for a good reason! Speake-Marin is one of these brands. The Maison is just 20 years young, and fiercely independent since the English/Swiss watchmaker was bought by an ambitious and ardent female entrepreneur, Christelle Rosnoblet in 2012. With it’s brand roots in England, yet now calling Switzerland home, the Maison’s pieces are developed, assembled and controlled in a fine watchmaking workshop, Le Cercle des Horlogers, which works hand in hand with Speake-Marin’s creation studio based in Geneva. The Speake-Marin Original Ripples Original Black Speake-Marin’s philosophy is simple, and boils down to three elements: All its collections are propo...

A Look at the Latest from Horage in Spain Worn & Wound
Rolex Richemont or Oct 12, 2023

A Look at the Latest from Horage in Spain

When writing about brands, we often use the words “micro” or “independent” to describe any brand that is not a Swiss luxury powerhouse or part of a mega conglomerate. Think of Rolex, Richemont or the Swatch Group for example. Most micro and independents we write about are, more often than not, brands that are more about design and a certain lifestyle philosophy than engineering and manufacturing. 99% of brands I love are the former. This doesn’t mean, however, that the latter don’t exist. Instead, an independent brand can be qualified as being one which goes beyond design to create stuff. A lot of new and cutting-edge stuff. This brings us to Horage, the Swiss that has been covered in these pages extensively, and more recently, most recently when Ed Jelley reviewed the Lensman 2. What we know about Horage is this: they make their own movements, good ones at that, and unique looking watches. I recently attended an event hosted by Horage through which I discovered that the brand actually does much more. Not only does Horage make its own movements, but it’s also at the forefront of technology to make watch manufacturing more sustainable. Or, should I say, watch collecting more sustainable. Through the discovery of their newest model and caliber-which I will tell you about in a second-I realized that everything in life does indeed work in cycles. Think about this: Rolex started as what we now describe as being a microbrand. It bought parts from many places to...

The Longines Spirit Flyback Chronograph, Now in Lightweight Titanium SJX Watches
Longines Spirit Flyback Chronograph Now Oct 12, 2023

The Longines Spirit Flyback Chronograph, Now in Lightweight Titanium

After the release of the scaled-down version of the Spirit Zulu Time, Longines has unveiled a new iteration of the Spirit Flyback Chronograph. This variation features a titanium case and bracelet, and an anthracite dial only for now, while preserving the design of the existing steel models. Initial thoughts Longines should be acknowledged for its success in creating vintage-style watches, as evident in its aviation-inspired Spirit collection, notably the Flyback Chronograph. The introduction of this chronograph in titanium shows a continuation of this successful run, despite its large case size.  As for this timepiece, it maintains the design features and case dimensions of the steel Spirit Flyback. However, it’s worth noting that it is currently only offered with an anthracite dial. It would have been preferable for the new case material to be accompanied by a new dial colour to truly make this release stand out. The titanium Spirit Flyback is offered with two strap options: one with a NATO strap priced at US$4,850 and another with a bracelet priced at US$5,200. Despite a modest price increase compared to the steel models, it continues to deliver exceptional value for its quality.  The Flyback in titanium Much like its steel counterparts, the titanium Spirit Flyback Chronograph exudes a distinct vintage-inspired design. Presently, it is only offered with a sun ray brushed anthracite dial as compared to the steel models available in either black or blue dials. The stee...