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Time+Tide
Watch enthusiasts do not always share the Swiss philosophy of neutrality. Being enthusiastic about something inevitably leads to hot takes, strong and stubborn opinions and, in turn, some snobbery. On the wrong day, I am definitely guilty of it myself – we’re all human after all. The reality is this niche hobby becomes less welcoming … ContinuedThe post 10 signs you’re becoming a watch snob appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
The H. Moser & Cie Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Armour is an exceptional timepiece that combines sophisticated design, intricate mechanics, and the unique properties of tantalum. This watch offers not only accurate timekeeping but also the ability to display the date and month with perpetual accuracy, making it a highly sought-after watch among collectors.
Time+Tide
Plenty of television shows can get a bit dark, whether it’s the incestuous violence of House of Dragons, murder mysteries like The Undoing or plots involving ruthless drug cartels like Ozark. So when a happy-go-lucky show like Ted Lasso comes to the forefront, it’s a welcome switch-up. Few shows have earned more smiles per episode from me … ContinuedThe post BELIEVE: The watches of the Ted Lasso cast appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
There are several watches that most watch enthusiasts should own in their collection at one time. The Omega Seamaster Professional Diver is one of those watches. If it’s good enough for James Bond, then it’s good enough for me! This isn’t the first time that I’ve owned a Seamaster. I had a 2005 quartz version almost 20 years ago. At that point I’d only owned a Tissot PRS 200 as a “good” Swiss watch. As a fan of James Bond, (and what young male isn’t?), I always wanted his watch. I mean how cool was the wave dial, the deep blue bezel and at the time, that unmistakable bracelet. It looked great in the office and on weekends at the beach. I loved it. Financial issues meant I had to sell it about 7 months after buying it, and that hurt. About 15 years and many watches later, I decided it was time to purchase another, this time the latest iteration of the SMP 300. I chose the black polished ceramic dial with the laser etched waves, date at 6 O’clock, glossy, almost silky polished ceramic bezel with white inset dive indicators. And this time, on the steel and opting to add the rubber strap too. Very versatile and with the steel bracelet and rubber strap, two very different looks for different occasions. Just a casual low light shot In 2018, Omega launched their updated version of the classic Bond watch. This time in a 42 mm case, making it a little bigger and bolder, and after a slight hiatus, bringing back the wave pattern on the dial. The new wave pattern is ...
Worn & Wound
As a self-proclaimed watch guy, I’ve developed a natural habit for watch spotting in the wild. It doesn’t matter if I’m in the midst of a routine trip to my local cafe or seated in my designated row as I observe the rest of the passengers board the plane. It’s also not limited to being out and about, as I’ve been known in my household to occasionally pause a movie if I spot something interesting on a character’s wrist. Needless to say, my watch-radar is always on. There are a few things that actually set this “radar” off. But for the most part, it’s design recognition. You know what you’re looking at, even when you just catch a glimpse of the watch from across the room. All the classic models and references have this going for them. A couple months back however, I must admit, I was stumped. A gentleman strolled into our Worn & Wound office and was looking to chat with someone from our editorial team. He walked into our headquarters, so surely he should have a watch on, right? So mid-conversation, I glanced over when the opportunity presented itself, and just visible outside of a denim shirt cuff, layered with a stone gray tweed overcoat, was a watch that I thought I recognized.But the more I looked, the more I got confused … and intrigued. “Definitely vintage,” I thought. But was it an IWC? A Universal Geneve? It was none of the above – it was actually something totally new. Turns out the gentleman visiting that day was Jesse Marchant, a New Yor...
Worn & Wound
Possibly against my better judgment, I saw Ant-Man and the Wasp: Quantumania recently. While it’s not my least favorite Marvel movie, it was pretty bad, somehow finding a way to rob Paul Rudd of nearly all of his natural charm, and filled with special effects that look not very special at all. I found my mind drifting, wondering if any of these actors actually met each other during filming, or if production had them fly in separately to film in front of massive green screens. And, as it too frequently does, my thoughts turned to watches. Wondering, as my colleagues did a few weeks ago, if Rudd chose that Grand Seiko for himself at the Ant-Man premiere, and if there was a quantum reality where he might have chosen a different watch for himself altogether, and if maybe in that reality he plays Captain America instead, and the MCU movies weren’t in a state of perpetual decline. The premise of Quantumania is actually interesting. Without getting too deep into the weeds, everything in the movie hinges on the quantum physics inspired idea that every decision point you encounter has infinite possibilities, and those possibilities play out in the “quantum realm.” That means new versions of you, and everyone you encounter, are constantly splitting off of your own perceived reality. This type of multiverse enabling storytelling is core to comic book mythologies, and seems to be playing out more frequently in this phase of Marvel films. In Quantumania, it means that in one ...
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Zach has long carried the torch for the #tinywristtribe, advocating on behalf of all watch lovers with smaller wrists. But today the torch is passed to the latest contributor to join our team, Kylie Lloyd-Wyatt. She is equally enthusiastic about finding watches that best suit a smaller wrist, but, rather than shy away … ContinuedThe post Big Watches, Small Wrists Part 1: Rules of Engagement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Any fun plans for the weekend? Well, before you get to it, here are the highlights of the week you may have missed and that we have yet to cover ourselves! Sinn goes for Gold(bronze) New T50 watches with new in-house Goldbronze 125 alloy comprised of 12.5% solid gold (Omega’s bronze gold is 37.5% for … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Sinn debuts Goldbronze, Richard Mille emphasises women, tantalising new Moser appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Last month, Cartier relaunched the Tank Francaise, a bestseller in the 1990s and early 2000s and also the first Tank to feature an integrated bracelet. Retaining the design elements of the 1996 original, the new Tank Francaise nonetheless sports a sleeker form and a more modern appearance overall. In many ways it’s not merely a remake but an entirely new watch. Initial thoughts When Cartier revealed the revamped Tank Francaise 27 years after the original, I was sceptical for several reasons. One because the original isn’t yet vintage enough to be a classic, but it is old enough that it might be stale. Another is the fact that it has been around for so long – the heyday of the original was the late 1990s but it remained in the catalogue until recently – the design feels too familiar. So I naturally wondered if the brand would do it justice to the model in redesigning it. After checking out the new Tank Francaise, I can certainly say it is well done and just right (apart from a few minor shortcomings in execution, like the date on the large model). The large model in steel The new Tank Francaise retains the style of the original, so it still has a bit of retro, 1990s style but not too much so it manages to look current. It still has the look of the original, with a similar outline and profile, but now with cleaner lines and neater details like a recessed crown. Other details like the brushed finish and sticker-appliqué numerals on the dials adds texture and visu...
Worn & Wound
If you’re a watch fan of a certain age, chances are you’re going through something (or about to go through something) that will do nothing less than force you to face your own mortality. It’s been happening for years, in fact, and it has nothing (directly) to do with watches. As my fellow elder millennials know, all the stuff you liked in the 1990s is turning 30. Yes, the unavoidable march of time comes for everyone, but there’s something, I don’t know, kind of insane and troubling about the pieces of popular culture that helped shape your worldview and taste as an adolescent entering their fourth decade of existence. Sometimes, lucky for us, those anniversaries are marked with watches, and the folks at G-SHOCK are celebrating the 30th year of a truly important hip hop group with their latest release. That’s right, it’s a Wu-Tang Clan limited edition. Feeling old yet? It’s hard to overstate the influence and importance of Wu-Tang, not just on hip-hop but on pop music in general. In addition to releasing albums as a collective that are considered by many to be among the best rap albums ever made, individual members have gone on to have solo successes of their own, discover and produce a new generation of talent, and cross over into other musical disciplines (RZA scored both Kill Bill films, for example). The larger musical sphere of Wu-Tang inspired and bred talent is so significant that artists falling into this category are known as the Wu-Tang Killa Bee...
Worn & Wound
Getting to know Seiko’s Presage Sharp Edged Series Seiko’s carefully crafted Presage collection reflects Seiko’s deep heritage of artistry in design and timekeeping. Timepieces that earn the Presage moniker capture the essence of both classic and contemporary Japanese style. The newest Presage designs from the Sharp Edged Series, convey the cool angularity of today’s Japanese aesthetic. The dial incorporates a Japanese “Asanoha” or hemp leaf pattern, prevalent in Japanese culture for its use in design and a symbol of growth and prosperity. The rich texture of the dial and the angular geometric pattern create a color gradation as it plays with light at every angle. Click here to view on YouTube. Learn more about the Seiko Presage Collection The post Brand Video Spotlight: A Heritage of Artistry in Design – The Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
We all need some prejudicial rules of thumb to navigate the messy business of life. Charles Bukowski swore by the fairly unimpeachable conviction that you should “never trust a man in a jumpsuit”. Billy Connolly meanwhile believed you should “never trust a man who, when left alone with a tea cosy, doesn’t try it on” … ContinuedThe post Richard E Grant may have found the only excuse for double-wristing (but there’s a catch…) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko has just opened the first of its own boutiques in Asia outside of Japan, which is located at the Marina Bay Sands casino resort in Singapore. Situated along a corridor alongside major luxury watch brands, the store reflects Grand Seiko’s ambitions in positioning itself alongside establishment brands. The inaugural store run by Grand Seiko’s recently-established Asian arm, it becomes the new platform for enthusiasts to experience the brand’s timepieces, including its top-of-the-line complications. It’s the first milestone for Grand Seiko Asia-Pacific, the joint venture set up last year with its longtime retailer in the region, Thong Sia Watch Co. Ltd. Akio Naito, Chairman of Grand Seiko Asia-Pacific and President of the Seiko Watch Corporation, explained the choice of the city state for its first boutique in the region: “Singapore is home to some of the most knowledgeable and passionate luxury watch enthusiasts in the world, and we are excited to provide them with a more direct interaction with the brand…” Keeping in line with the brand’s philosophy, “The Nature of Time”, the boutique’s interior is modern while sticking to traditional materials and details. The store sports a clean, modern design with warm wood for the floor and cabinets, retaining the subtle, Japanese refinement that the brand is known for. The boutique is also the place for clients and enthusiasts to learn more about the brand. In particular, it allows them to experi...
Deployant
Rado releases a new Captain Cook, in ceramic, as an extension to the 4 models released in the High-Tech Ceramic Edition in 2021.
Worn & Wound
Moser’s latest is the brand’s first ever release in tantalum, a rarely used metal with unique characteristics that make it one of the more rewarding metals in all of watchmaking. In other words, it has a beautiful aesthetic impact, but it takes a lot of work and knowledge to get it to that point. Using it at all is something of a flex for any brand, and Moser is throwing down the gauntlet to a certain extent with this release. Somewhat predictably, they’ve incorporated what has come to be the brand’s signature complication, a unique and easy to read perpetual calendar, into their first tantalum watch, all with an elaborate enamel dial with a distinct hammered texture. The clear highlight of the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel is the use of tantalum, so we’ll start there. Tantalum is extremely dense and strong, qualities which make it an excellent candidate as a case metal for a luxury watch. It’s also very corrosion resistant, and develops a very thin layer of oxidation when exposed to air that naturally protects it. Tantalum also has a gray-blue tone to it that is quite unlike any other metal, giving it a unique quality that no other metal can match. The reason tantalum is so uncommon in watchmaking is because it is very difficult to machine thanks to a melting point that comes in around 3000 °C. It takes advanced technology and equipment to properly fabricate tantalum for watchmaking purposes, which of course requires not only a substa...
Worn & Wound
G-SHOCK’s “Master of G” series are some of the toughest watches in G-SHOCK’s lineup. These “master” watches pack some of the most advanced features that G-SHOCK has to offer for those who demand a lot from their digital watches. There are a few categories of models that fall under the Master of G” series, and today, we’re going to take a look at some of the latest additions to the Windup Watch Shop that are ready for whatever you throw at them. G-SHOCK’s “Master of G” series are some of the toughest watches in G-SHOCK’s lineup. These “master” watches pack some of the most advanced features that G-SHOCK has to offer for those who demand a lot from their digital watches. There are a few categories of models that fall under the Master of G” series, and today, we’re going to take a look at some of the latest additions to the Windup Watch Shop that are ready for whatever you throw at them. The post Some of the Toughest New G-SHOCK’s – Now Available in the Windup Watch Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
Longines receives a lot of well deserved acclaim from the watch community for the tasteful way they recreate historical watches. They not only have a knack for getting the proportions and small details of these watches just right, but over the years they’ve been incredibly smart about the watches they select to reissue. Longines is essentially curating a living museum of watches that are important not just to their own brand history, but watch history writ large. Even if a particular reference is not to your taste, the fact these watches are out there preserving the brand’s heritage is important – it allows enthusiasts to really learn something about watch history, even if they never own the watch in question. Their first novelty of 2023 is a prime example of Longines teaching all of us a little bit about their past. The Longines Pilot Majetek is an uncommon pilot’s watch with a design that has roots in the 1930s. When we think of aviation watches, our minds probably go to simple designs rooted in pure legibility. The IWC Mark series, for example, provides something of a foundation for how we understand pilot watches today. Big numerals, plenty of lume, and generous proportions. For a time in the 1920s and 30s, however, pilot’s watches made by Longines were defined by a feature we now associate with a very different type of tool watch: a rotating bezel. These so-called “aviation counters” placed an emphasis on timing the duration of a flight, and used a sim...
SJX Watches
Long associated with professional pursuits in the early years of the 20th century, Longines made watches worn by explorers, scientists, soldiers, and aviators. Examples include the chronographs made for the hydrographic institute of the Italian navy in the 1930s and the wristwatches supplied to the British army in the 1940s. One of the brand’s most distinctive watches from the period was the cushion-shaped aviator’s watch made for the personnel of the Czech air force in 1935, which has now been reimagined as the Pilot Majetek. Initial thoughts The Pilot Majetek is actually Longines’ second outing in reissuing the Czech air force original. Launched almost a decade ago, the first reissue had too many elements (including a date and “automatic” on the dial) that instantly gave away the fact that it was a modern watch. In contrast, the Pilot Majetek avoids those pitfalls. The design is not a like-for-like reproduction of the original as it has a bulked-up case with crown guards and a wider bezel amongst other tweaks. But it doesn’t have any design elements that stand out as being inappropriate in a vintage-inspired watch. So on its face the Pilot Majetek appears to tick all the boxes as a vintage reissue, but with a big few caveat. Though I’ve yet to see it in person, it is almost certainly a bulky watch at 43 mm in diameter and over 13 mm high, essentially the same dimensions as a chunky sports chronograph and certainly much larger than the 41 mm original, whic...
Time+Tide
From measuring Lindberg’s first transatlantic flight to the monopusher chronograph worn by Amelia Earhart and the Weems, Longines’ tradition of pilot’s watches is a storied one. By the time the 1930s rolled around, Longines had developed a simple system for tracking time in the form of an arrow that rotated with the bezel. You could … ContinuedThe post The Longines Pilot Majetek is a wrist-mounted flight instrument with a storied past appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Longines returns to its roots to recreate a pilot's watch for the wider audience. Presenting the new Pilot Majetek, created after 190 years of history.
Time+Tide
Junghans have a long and impressive history in the Black Forest region of Germany, so they’re definitely not afraid of some snow. Despite being famed for their heritage and Bauhaus designs, Junghans haven’t stopped developing new models and retro-futuristic styles either. The Junghans 1972 series captures two distinct levels of vintage oddity, now paired with … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Junghans 1972 FIS Nordic World Ski Championships editions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
![[VIDEO] Inside the Collection: Pairing the Tudor Pelagos 39 & the Rolex Submariner 14060M](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2023/02/Rolex14060TudorPelagos39_1.webp)
Worn & Wound
As much as I advocate for expanding your boundaries when it comes to the type of watches you experience, most of our time is spent in the middle of our lane. These are the comfort food of watches, the sweet spot you keep coming back to. For me, these are typically simple divers or tool watches, the archetype of which is of course the Submariner. Not very exciting, but a great everyday companion that’s easy to use and read, with an uncanny ability to pair with pretty much any outfit or look. Plenty of other watches fall into the category as well, but the Submariner sets the bar, and does so particularly well in the form of the reference 14060M. Where more modern references have veered ever so slightly into “it needs to make a statement” territory, there is a humbleness that remains within the 14060, if ever a word could be applied to a Submariner. The peculiar vibe of the 14060 may be absent within the present catalog of Rolex sports watches, but that doesn’t mean it’s not out there in other more modern watches. In fact, you don’t have to stray far from the family to find such a candidate. Tudor has managed to capture a lot of the charm of early Rolex references in recent years, and one in particular strikes me as a perfect embodiment of what I love about 5 digit Subs, and that is the Pelagos 39. When this watch was introduced I referred to it as the modern Sub we never got, and expanded on that in my full review of the watch. I’ve since welcomed a P39 into ...
SJX Watches
In the quest for precision chronometry in a mechanical watch, perhaps no other component is as crucial as the escapement – often consisting of an escape wheel and lever that engage with the oscillating organ. The history of watchmaking recounts many an attempt at inventing a better-performing escapement, with some attempts naturally more successful than others. By the 20th century, the watch industry had settled upon the Swiss lever escapement, which has proven itself to be a reasonably solid performer and crucially, one fit for mass production. However, in the latter decades of the century, one English watchmaker attempted to challenge the industry status quo. In 1974, George Daniels invented the “co-axial escapement”, a seemingly novel and practical escapement of his own design that was conceived as an functionally superior alternative to the Swiss lever escapement. Daniels’ invention fulfilled his ambition, at least in part, when it was sold to Omega and then successfully industrialised starting in 1999; today it is found in hundreds of thousands of movements that Omega produces each year. The latest iteration of the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch is kitted out with the co-axial escapement With the merits of the co-axial escapement having been proven in part by its large-scale adoption, my aim here is not to examine its intrinsic qualities, but rather delve into its development. Specifically I will explore the fact that the co-axial escapement might not be an ent...
Deployant
Arnold & Son adds a platinum case edition to their Globetrotter collection. Details from the Press Release and commentary in italics.
Quill & Pad
The style of Gosset champagnes tends to complex, richly flavored wines. Powerful Pinot components and the steel and elegance of fine Chardonnay. Ken Garett shares his thoughts on the 2088 vintage.
Quill & Pad
Finnish independent watchmaker Torsti Laine’s timepieces feature strong individualization, bespoke designs, “dream color” dials, movements, colors, guilloché, lovely hands, and applied numerals – especially Breguet style – in any shape or language. Avid Quill & Pad reader Thomas Brechtel visited Laine in his workshop in Le Locle, Switzerland, and shares what he learned there with us right here.
Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin is a brand that does things properly. Established in 1755, the prestigious manufacturer only produces about 20,000 watches a year, due to their commitment to uphold their famously high standards. This exacting attitude contributed to the delay in opening a dedicated Sydney boutique until they found the ideal location. But that wait is … ContinuedThe post Vacheron Constantin unveils multi-level boutique in Sydney appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
New calendar module debuts in the IWC Portofino Complete Calendar Available in stainless steel or 18k 5N gold IWC also introduces a new Portofino Pointer Date in 39mm If I asked what the first watch you think of is when I say IWC, I wonder how many would name the Portofino. I certainly wouldn’t, but … ContinuedThe post The IWC Portofino Complete Calendar features an exciting brand first appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
One of the reasons we love vintage watches is for the stories they tell. Yes, that’s a bit of a cliche, but every so often a watch comes to our attention that is truly historic, and really drives the point home. There are watches that hold personal meaning to their owners (family heirlooms passed down through the generations, for example), and watches that hold special and often outsize significance to small groups of collectors (like a Tiffany stamp on a vintage Rolex). But a watch like the Speedmaster Eric Wind listed for sale recently falls into another category altogether. This watch, worn by astronaut Scott Carpenter, exists at the place where watchmaking history and American history meet. It wouldn’t be out of place in a museum, but if you have the cash, it can be yours. First, a little background on Carpenter, because the fact that this watch was his personal Speedmaster is a huge part of what makes it special, particularly to hardcore vintage watch enthusiasts. Carpenter was an American naval officer and test pilot who was selected as one of the original Mercury Seven astronauts 1959. After John Glenn, Carpenter was the second American to orbit the earth, and was a key figure in the early days of the space program when it both captured the imagination of the world and was arguably at its most dangerous. Carpenter’s space flights did not go off without a hitch – his Aurora 7 spacecraft that flew in the Mercury-Atlas 7 mission famously splashed down 250 mil...
Worn & Wound
2022 was a big year for the Windup Watch Fair. We expanded our San Francisco and New York City events and launched a brand new Fair in Chicago. Thanks to the support of the Worn & Wound community, each event was more well-attended than the last. Heading into 2023, we’re excited to build on this momentum with even bigger and better events. For the uninitiated, Windup is a three-day-long shopping event that brings watch brands and customers together in a fun, approachable, and engaging environment. Always free and open to the public, Windup encourages everyone from seasoned collectors to first-time watch buyers to come in, take a look, and talk watches. Here’s a quick recap of our most recent event in NYC to give you a sneak peek of what to expect. If you own or represent a brand and are interested in participating in Windup this year (or partnering with Worn & Wound in other ways), please click here to complete a short questionnaire. Now, onto the 2023 schedule of events! San Francisco – Friday, April 28 through Sunday, April 30, 2023 After successfully expanding the San Francisco Windup Watch Fair into a new venue in 2022, we’re excited to be kicking off the 2023 Fair schedule at the same location, the Terra Gallery (511 Harrison Street), this time occupying both the first and second floors of the facility. That’s right, this year’s San Francisco Fair will be even bigger than the last, with 60+ presenting brands and, for the first time in San Francisco, live pa...
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