Hodinkee
Introducing: The Tissot Sideral Regatta Timer Returns With Fun Summer Colors
You don't need to be a sailor to get some fun out of these new carbon-cased watches.
Results for La Chaux-de-Fonds
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Hodinkee
![[VIDEO] Battle of the White GMTs: Grand Seiko SBGE285 & Rolex Explorer II 16570](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2023/05/P1011748-1.jpg)
Worn & Wound
[VIDEO] Battle of the White GMTs: Grand Seiko SBGE285 & Rolex Explorer II 16570
There has never been a better time to be in the market for a GMT watch, with no shortage of great options at a wider range of prices than perhaps ever before. There is one watch that’s remained a pillar of the genre over the years, however, and that is the Explorer II reference 16570. It holds up just as well today as it did when it was introduced in the late ‘80s, and remains a favorite among enthusiasts for its sweet spot sizing, and a timeless design that seems to go with everything. But that’s a watch that’s been out of production for decades, so where is the modern incarnation of this ethos? We may have found a perfect candidate in the Grand Seiko SBGE285. Grand Seiko hasn’t exactly been at the center of the scruffy tool watch scene in the same way that 5 digit Rolex references have, but this SBGE285 offers a compelling case for Grand Seiko’s take on the genre with this modern tool-ish GMT. This is a watch that might look a little intimidating by the numbers, but offers a different experience on-wrist. It might not be as svelte as the Explorer II, but there’s plenty to admire here, from the stunning finishing on the hands and dial furniture, to the unorthodox case architecture, which are all executed to Grand Seiko’s high standards. Ultimately, these two watches offer very different experiences that reflect the two brands at their very best. That said, they do converge in a few surprising ways, which Kat and Blake discuss in this inside look at watches...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 300
A good friend of mine leans heavily toward the category of pilot watches. He’s not a pilot, but he likes the way pilot watches look, how legible they are, and the rich history that propelled them to occupy an important role in Swiss brands’ catalogs. I lean heavily towards the genre of dive watches, and although I’m not a professional diver, I do occasionally explore the world below the surface. I have been drawn to dive watches because of their inherent robustness and versatility, as well because I have a particular affinity for any large body of water. This means, in other words, that I mostly wear dive watches and that I’m always on the lookout for the next one to add to my collection. At the risk of bragging a little, I’ve gotten my hands on many Christopher Ward models in the past three years. But for some strange reason, I’ve never looked at a Trident in the metal. This is odd because it is the collection that the British brand is perhaps the most known for. And this might be due to the fact that, over the past few years, Christopher Ward has revamped the Trident collection multiple times, updating the designs, improving upon the case profile and dimensions, and continuously bettering the finish. Or, in Christopher Ward terms, giving us better bangs for our bucks. So today is a special day as I got to spend some time with the 38mm C60 Trident Pro 300. An Enthusiast Driven Design We watch enthusiasts are not only enthusiasts about horology but we som...
Worn & Wound
From Designer Eric Giroud, the New Schwarz Etienne Geometry Has One of the Trippiest Dials We’ve Seen
A watch, like any designed object, is the product of a series of decisions, and those decisions can define it. At some point, whoever is making the thing has to determine what type of watch it’s going to be, what sort of movement it will have, the size, the style of handset and indices, the dial colors, and so forth. The most successful watches, in my opinion, are those made by people who have come to tough but deliberate decisions. We’ve all seen watches that feel like they are just too much in one way or another, and they never tend to work. The new Geometry by Schwarz Etienne is literally the watch equivalent of a fully loaded luxury car: when it comes to dial finishes, it has every option. But instead of being too much, it works in a sort of psychedelic way. Whatever you think of it, I think it’s hard to argue that it’s the product of some serious decision making. The Geometry comes to us via designer Eric Giroud, who has previously worked with brands as diverse as Louis Erard, MB&F;, Mido, and many more. The dial is divided into four distinct quadrants, each incorporating different dial finishes and patterns. You can imagine any one of the single quadrants made as an entire dial, and the watch would probably look great. But broken into pieces, you get a sense of how these different patterns and finishes work with and against one another. The fact that it’s somewhat jarring to look at at first is a reminder of the difficulty of watch design in the first plac...
Time+Tide
IWC is stealthy in ceramic for the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun
Many manufacturers have delved into the recent trend of brightly coloured dials fitted to slightly dressier, but still everyday-friendly watches. It’s fairly rare, however, that this colourful element continued into the cases, and this is where IWC’s ceramic-cased Pilot’s Watch line-up comes in. It’s no secret that their Pantone-tinged Woodland Green, white Lake Tahoe, and … ContinuedThe post IWC is stealthy in ceramic for the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Revo Talks: Laurent Ferrier X Revolution Classic Micro-Rotor Amazonia
Wei and Constant have a sit-down conversation on our newest limited edition, the Laurent Ferrier X Revolution Classic Micro-Rotor Amazonia. Join us as we go into the stories of Laurent Ferrier, the man himself, and the amazing process that created this beautiful timepiece. Our Laurent Ferrier X Revolution Classic Micro-Rotor Amazonia is limited to just 15 […]
Worn & Wound
IWC Introduces a New “Tahoe” Version of their Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar
IWC’s Top Gun “Lake Tahoe” edition of their ceramic cased chronograph has been an object of fascination for many since its release last year. While it lacks a certain practicality (it’s 44.5mm wide) and versatility (it’s, well, bright white) it’s undeniably striking, and would seem to be the perfect watch for a handful of very specific purposes, one of which is surely sipping on brightly colored cocktail, oceanside, in Miami. There’s nothing else quite like it on the market (besides the other colored, ceramic IWC chronographs), and it presents as an interesting contrast in design sensibilities to the “normal” IWC chronographs, the ones in steel, with an altogether more sober vibe. They’re the same, but also wildly different, and illustrate how IWC has one foot in contemporary sleekness and another in paying homage to their own history, visible on the same chronograph platform. Last week, the Tahoe got a sequel of sorts with a new Big Pilot perpetual calendar using the same materials and design notes as the chronograph. The Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun Lake Tahoe had been seen on the wrist of IWC ambassador Lewis Hamilton recently, so the official news of its release to the public isn’t a huge shock, but as an admirer of the Tahoe chronograph it’s fun to see its expansion to another product line, and makes us wonder if we could see a Tahoe edition of the simplest IWC pilot watches. A Mark XX Tahoe? Take my money. That’s enough...
Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Introduces a Sky Blue Version of their BR 05 GMT
Bell & Ross has just released their latest interpretation of their urban living-inspired BR 05 GMT range, the Sky Blue. With its mixture of cool steel and blue highlights, this automatic watch definitely lives up to its heavenly name. The BR 05 GMT Sky Blue is a watch designed for the urban inhabitant that enjoys a subtle – yet noticeable – presence on their wrist. With its squared design, it’s bold without being ostentatious, the way any good watch worth its salt should be. The Sky Blue is able to toe the line between being vintage-inspired and totally contemporary, drawing at times from classic integrated bracelet sports watch designs, but in a notably Bell & Ross way, using their well understood square case as a starting point. The look of the watch itself is impressively modern. The steel case is satin-polished for a warmer look while the caseback is sapphire, featuring a 360° oscillating weight. It’s the subtle touches that are now synonymous with Bell & Ross that elevates this watch above others under the label’s offerings. The Sky Blue, like others in the BR 05 GMT range, is powered by a Calibre BR-CAL.325 automatic movement (a rebadged Sellita SW330). This will give the wearer a 42-hour power reserve. This watch also features a GMT complication that allows for the tracking of a second time zone. Cleverly painted on the flange, day and evening are distinguished by a split color scheme: gray for the daytime (6 am to 6 pm) and blue for the night-time (6 p...
Time+Tide
The MKII Stingray II Keroman is a true military diver, recreated
We don’t need more dive watches. According to some anecdotal data, divers are the most popular type of watches because they are robust, versatile, and can sometimes be handsome to look at, considering personal preference and all. Don’t get me wrong – I love dive watches – and wear them on a mostly daily basis. … ContinuedThe post The MKII Stingray II Keroman is a true military diver, recreated appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
The Owner’s Perspective: Tudor Black Bay GMT
The Tudor Black Bay GMT was a hit when released in 2018 giving people a much more affordable alternative to it’s older and wiser cousin, the Rolex GMT BLRO, otherwise known as “The Pepsi”. And being more attainable and a great value proposition, I decided it was time to add a GMT to the collection. Why I Bought It I had never owned a GMTGreat Rolex alternativeClassic styled GMT & similar to my Black Bay The Ownership Reality Wears larger than a 41mm watch due to it’s 14mm thickness and slab sidesNo micro adjust or extendable links for on the fly adjustment Aluminium bezel insert more prone to scratches than ceramic Overall rating: 8.5 /10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build quality: 8/10 A few months ago, Tudor released a new variant of the Tudor Black Bay GMT with a white dial, which you can read about here, but personally, I didn’t love the white dial on this watch. The black dial “Pepsi” configuration, The OG looks better in my opinion, which made me think why, and then made me think – maybe I should write about it in this next Owners Perspective article. The original and the best – Tudor Black Bay GMT Having never owned a GMT, and les face it, over 2020 and 2021, I’ve not needed one as I’ve not really gone anywhere thanks to COVID. But with the world opening up again early last year, and with a few family holidays planned combined with an itch for a new watch, I decided to take the plunge and get a Tudor Black Bay GMT. W...
Time+Tide
Bamford Watch Department x Wes Lang present a Limited Edition TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph
BWD collaborates with Wes Lang to bring the artist’s signature flourishes to the iconic Carrera Chronograph Wes Lang is known for his recurring figures and symbols- horses, reapers, skulls, birds, the indigenous American and other post-pop Americana iconography The watch is a harmonious melding of Jack Heuer and Wes Lang’s design codes in a rose … ContinuedThe post Bamford Watch Department x Wes Lang present a Limited Edition TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The IWC Big Pilot White Ceramic ‘Lake Tahoe’ Perpetual Calendar Officially Arrives
It's no longer a secret relegated to Lewis Hamilton's wrist, but rather a welcome addition to the watch world.
Deployant
Deployant Reacts: 5 Watches I Love but Would NEVER BUY
Following the first Deployant Reacts article, we decided to follow up with another piece, this time with Britt Pearce's thoughts on certain watches.
Hodinkee
Video: The Fathers Of New York City's 70-Year-Old Watch Repair Institution
On this Father's Day, we check in on Steve and Larry Kivel of Grand Central Watch.
Quill & Pad
H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Aqua Blue: Refining Perfection Results in a Refining of Preference - Reprise
Sometimes good things do come in smaller packages. When H. Moser & Cie introduced the Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater in 2019, it boasted a diameter of 43 mm. Now in 2022, we welcome a new version with a 40 mm diameter case. That’s just one of several changes making this watch even more appealing to an even larger group of (potential) clients.
Time+Tide
The new Bulova Marine Star models reframe a mish-mash of influences into bombastic new looks
Some watches play to a faithful template, while others prefer to try something more imaginative. These new Bulova Marine Star models are definitely in the second category, pulling influences from seemingly every direction and frankly it’s difficult to know what to make of them. All that said, if you’re looking for something with unashamed character … ContinuedThe post The new Bulova Marine Star models reframe a mish-mash of influences into bombastic new looks appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
How smartwatches could protect soldiers from chemical warfare
War played a crucial role in the evolution of the wristwatch. Historians believe the idea of strapping watches to soldier’s wrists was probably conceived during the Boer War, although there are some accounts of Napoleon being frustrated by having to constantly fumble about for his pocket watch during battle. But the real game-changer that made … ContinuedThe post How smartwatches could protect soldiers from chemical warfare appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
IWC celebrates 75 years of the Mark series with a silver-dialled Mark XX
There’s no doubt that IWC is one of the most important players in the pilot’s watch game. Without digging too deep, numerous legendary models have emerged, from the very first Mark 11 issued to the RAF in 1948 to the latest Big Pilot’s Perpetual Calendar. It is that very first Mark-series watch that is being … ContinuedThe post IWC celebrates 75 years of the Mark series with a silver-dialled Mark XX appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition - Brett Braley
Editor’s Note: In this edition of the 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader (and newest contributor) Brett Braley brings us a refreshing collection that skews the expected in creative ways. All three of these watches bring a unique personality to the table, and offer a surprisingly diverse range when considered together. If you’d like to submit your own 3 watch collection for $5,000 can you do so at the form right here. I have always hovered at the periphery of watches. Whether it was the Fossil watch I got for graduation from my parents or the souvenir Mickey Mouse watch I begged my aunt at Disney World, I have always seen watches as the supreme accessory for looking put together (or, at the very least, faking it). Recently, I have stopped being at the periphery of watches and have found myself smack-dab in the middle of the hobby. A few weeks ago, I attended the San Francisco Wind Up as a representative of my company, Esterbrook Pen Co. I’m the Director of Digital Marketing for a company that specializes in luxury pens. While this is a niche industry, it’s not any more niche than, say, watches and the two circles of the Venn diagram seem to be overlapping a good bit. When tasked to pick three watches, I went with the same criteria I use when picking a good writing utensil: value, aesthetic, and quality. I want something that will last, look good, and be worth the money I’m paying. And, last but not least, I wanted to go with three brands which aren’t as ...
Worn & Wound
Turning 50 with the Grand Seiko SBGE257
Three years ago, my significant other turned 50 and for this milestone birthday she absolutely wanted a Tesla automobile. As the wonderful husband I am and knowing my 50th birthday was three years away, I knew this could open the door to a significant watch purchase, so of course, we made it happen. Luckily, we were very fortunate to take possession of her new cherry red car just weeks before the pandemic turned the entire world upside down. From that day forward, I had to figure out what would make the perfect 50th birthday watch, however, before we get to this process, you have to understand something about me. I call myself a serial monogamist when it comes to watch collecting. I am one of those people that can only have one “good” watch at a time. I cannot seem to have more than one, as there is always a preferred one and that one always gets the wrist time. As a result, since 1997, I have gone through hundreds of watches, always looking for watch next. My preference is for sport, dive and pilot watches and I have owned, photographed and reviewed some of the very finest in the world. I have done this by frequently trading, or selling and buying, but always with the same pool of watch funds. Oh, I have added a little bit here and there, and I have also gotten lucky a few times and come out favorably on some trades. All that said, it has been years since the wifely unit permitted a large watch purchase. You see, we have two adult kids in college and despite wha...
Time+Tide
The Nezumi Aviera is a GMT that looks like nothing else
If you read Time+Tide, you know very well that GMTs are as popular as they have ever been. I would actually say, much more popular. I cannot think of any major Swiss or Japanese brand that hasn’t released a GMT in the past two years. And looking at the independent/microbrand world, it seems that each … ContinuedThe post The Nezumi Aviera is a GMT that looks like nothing else appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Marnaut Returns with their Refined Dark Surge 300 Diver, a Proper Dressy Tool Watch and a New Showroom in an Exotic Locale
The last time we caught up Mario Jutronic and his Croatia-designed microbrand, Marnaut, the collection featured a pair of capable divers with a distinct dial inspired by a creature of the Adriatic Sea. Marnaut has been quiet in recent years and after a stint in Asia, Jutronic has returned to his homeland, marking the watch brand’s resurgence. Sometimes a change in scenery is what the soul needs, and you know what they say, there’s nothing better than home cooking. Now, Marnaut is looking to pick up right where they left off with a more refined version of their flagship Dark Surge 300 diver and the launch of their brand new Safe Harbour 100 collection. The newly refined Dark Surge 300 As you’ll find out with all the noteworthy details, all roads lead back to “The Land of a Thousand Islands” in every Marnaut piece. The sea urchin exoskeleton inspired dial, a signature Marnaut design cue and a tribute to Jutronic’s younger days snorkeling in the Adriatic Sea to find these coveted creatures, reprises its format in the updated Dark Surge 300. The dial displays all 47 raised indices in radiating fashion with each one wrapped in a polished surround and filled with C3 SuperLuminova. There’s a certain depth this particular design provides. From above, the space between the top of the surrounds and the surface of its filling is noticeable. A side profile captures the same raised indices in a different manner as they reflect off of the glossy black dial. As a result, le...
Time+Tide
Bethesda’s new Starfield video game smartwatch gets an IRL counterpart
In case you’ve avoided the news for the past several years (and who could blame you?), the gaming industry has become the world’s biggest avenue for entertainment, to the tune of over US$220 Billion (with a capital B) in 2022. In fact, it far outpaces the movie and music industries combined. So game studios have … ContinuedThe post Bethesda’s new Starfield video game smartwatch gets an IRL counterpart appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
IWC Introduces the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar “Top Gun Lake Tahoe”
Having made a splash with the release of the Ingenieur back in March, IWC now returns with an addition to its military-inspired aviator’s watch collection with the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar “Top Gun Lake Tahoe”. While IWC is no stranger to ceramic as a case material, this is the first time the signature IWC perpetual calendar has been combined with white ceramic, certainly one of the brand’s most popular case materials. Initial thoughts Since its 2022 debut, the Colours of Top Gun collection – comprised of pilot’s watches with cases in coloured ceramic other than black – has consistently been a bestseller. The white ceramic chronograph in particular was especially sought after, enough that it sold for above the retail price on the secondary market for a brief period. Therefore, it is no surprise that IWC has now introduced a white ceramic perpetual calendar, adding the popular case material to its trademark complication. Fans of the perpetual calendar will not be disappointed since the dial design sticks to a tried-and-tested formula. The overall aesthetics, however, are striking. The juxtaposition of the matte black dial and white ceramic transforms the often elegant complication into something sportier and cooler. On the other hand, owners of the Top Gun chronograph in white ceramic might be disappointed that the material is no longer unique to that model, but it was practically a given IWC would launch more white ceramic models given the comme...
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A belated recap of the Parisian Breguet Type XX/20 event
Hey folks! Back in the Friday Wind Down saddle. I would have loved to share my experience during the Paris Breguet trip last week, but alas I was in transit to Geneva and could not punch it out in time. But, back in New York City, I wanted to give you a peek into what … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A belated recap of the Parisian Breguet Type XX/20 event appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Archiwatch Classic Two-Tone, Inspired By The Calatrava 96 (With Live Pics)
Two-tone dial, Breguet numerals, and details done right, all in a modern package, make for a fun homage to the classic Calatrava.
Worn & Wound
Tissot Puts a Powermatic 80 Movement in their Smallest PRX
It’s not exactly breaking news, but it seems that integrated bracelet sports watches hold just as dominant a place in the market as they did a year ago, and a year before that. They are coming at us from every angle: the entry level, the high end, and somewhere in between, and with each new release, it feels more and more like this isn’t a “trend,” as so many (including myself) have described it in the past. It’s becoming increasingly clear that what we’re looking at is a product category as broad as “dive watches” or “dress watches.” That means integrated bracelet sports watches are just going to keep coming, not just at every price point, but in every size. And that brings us to the newest release from Tissot, a PRX in a 35mm case and equipped with an automatic movement. The PRX has been available in 35mm for about a year, but only with a quartz movement. An integrated bracelet sports watch in a smaller than normal case size makes a ton of sense, and by all accounts the 35mm PRX was a big hit. The very nature of an integrated bracelet sports watch means that, most of the time, it’s going to wear a bit larger than a watch with a strap or traditional bracelet. The cases for these watches, often somewhat architectural and heavily faceted, have a ton of wrist presence. And the silkiness and drape of the bracelets (when they’re done right) makes comfort a truly defining feature in this category – a watch that’s too big can spoil the whole experie...
Worn & Wound
Farer Introduces the Chronograph Sport Titanium Collection, with New Takes on Old Favorites in a Lighter Metal
Today, Farer has launched the latest additions to the Chrono-Sport lineup with their new Chronograph Sport Titanium collection. As the name suggests, these watches will be released in a titanium frame, versus the standard steel from previous models. Not only does this reduce weight by around 20%, but it also brings some of Farer’s most intriguing designs back to the forefront of conversation. Farer is a brand that knows what it’s doing and how to do it well. With an emphasis on updating classic designs with contemporary color combinations, Farer isn’t afraid to be bold without ever veering into the ostentatious. This can be seen with the two colorways for the Titanium collection: the Carnegie and the Bernina. Both inspired by the legendary motor races held in St. Moritz, each relies on a common design language that is somehow completely retro and totally modern all at once. The Carnegie Titanium leans more towards the alpine nature of St. Mortiz with its complementary blue and bronze accents. With a subtle sunburst dial and accents of silver, it’s a watch that could easily be found on any racer worth his salt in the heyday of motoracing. The ceramic bezel, three subdials, and Super-LumiNova hour markers all finish the appearance of the Carngie to put it miles above others in its class in terms of appearance. Contrasting the cool Carnegie is the more vibrant Bernina, which puts the pedal to the metal for the Farer line-up. With red and off-white accents, it’s a ...
Revolution
In Conversation with Laurent Ferrier: The Renaissance Watchmaker behind the Amazonia
Wei joined Laurent Ferrier for an in-depth discussion on his design ethos for hyper-classic masterpieces and how our Laurent Ferrier X Revolution Classic Micro-Rotor Amazonia came to fruition. Laurent Ferrier’s passion for watchmaking was inspired by his father, who was also a watchmaker. He has over 37 years of watchmaking experience, including working as the […]
Deployant
New and reviewed: Bell & Ross BR 05 GMT Sky Blue
Bell & Ross adds to their BR05 GMT collection a new model with a sky blue dial in a beautiful sunray finish. Here is our hands-on review.