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The Longitude Problem

The 200-year navigation crisis solved by John Harrison\'s H4 marine chronometer (1759); the lineage to modern COSC and Master Chronometer.

HANDS-ON: The AVI-8 Hawker Harrier Blue Nylon is a tempting sub-$500 throwdown for aviation fans Time+Tide
Nov 25, 2020

HANDS-ON: The AVI-8 Hawker Harrier Blue Nylon is a tempting sub-$500 throwdown for aviation fans

More than 50 years ago, an aviation team led by pilot Tom Lecky-Thompson embarked on what they referred to as codename “Blue Nylon”. So, what was the top-secret project? The group was making preparations for Lecky-Thompson’s attempt to enter the Transatlantic Air Race in 1969, which involved pilots flying from London all the way to … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The AVI-8 Hawker Harrier Blue Nylon is a tempting sub-$500 throwdown for aviation fans appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Do your friends think watch collecting is strange? These are the best watches to get your friends into watches Time+Tide
Nov 25, 2020

Do your friends think watch collecting is strange? These are the best watches to get your friends into watches

If you, like many others, stumbled across the watch collecting hobby entirely by yourself, you know that feeling of loneliness. You may spend hours perfecting a wrist shot to show off your grail purchases, incredible bargains, or vintage eBay snipes, only to have friends and family snub you by exclaiming, “You bought another watch?” Well, … ContinuedThe post Do your friends think watch collecting is strange? These are the best watches to get your friends into watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 03-92 White Camo SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Introduces Nov 25, 2020

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 03-92 White Camo

The quintessential Bell & Ross aviation-instrument wristwatch has been given a winter camouflage outfit – the BR 03-92 White Camo has a black ceramic case with a high-contrast, winter-camo pattern dial. And in keeping with B&R;’s frequent iteration of military themes, this is also the third BR 03-92 dressed in camouflage, having been preceded by black and green variants. Initial thoughts Though popular in streetwear, white camouflage is unusual in watches. Compared with the preceding versions, the White Camo model has a more lively look that is distinctly less military looking. It is perhaps the most striking watch in the current BR 03 line-up, alongside the Full Lum. In typical Bell & Ross style, the dial, and especially the case, are well executed. The dial, for instance, has a sandwich construction: the upper dial has cut-outs for the numerals, allowing the lower disc clad in luminescent material to shine through. And the case is neatly-machined black ceramic, secured by four screws in a, well, sandwich-like construction. Arguably the only average bit is the Sellita SW300 inside. A clone of the tried-and-tested ETA 2892, the movement is perfectly appropriate for the US$3,800 price tag, which also makes this one of the more affordable ceramic-case watches. Added to that a simple but recognisable design, and the White Camo is a rather appealing proposition for an accessibly-priced sports watch. White and black Being black ceramic, the case recedes into the backgroun...

Attention space cowboys: 5 alternatives to the Omega Speedmaster that you probably haven’t considered Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster Nov 25, 2020

Attention space cowboys: 5 alternatives to the Omega Speedmaster that you probably haven’t considered

The Speedmaster Professional is so well known, so in command of its hallowed place in the history of watchmaking, how could you possibly find an alternative? Given that it is a watch that has actually been to the moon (conspiracy theories about the Mojave Desert aside), any comparisons will have to be approximate at best. … ContinuedThe post Attention space cowboys: 5 alternatives to the Omega Speedmaster that you probably haven’t considered appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The new Shogun is finally here in the form of the Seiko Prospex SPB189 and SPB191 Time+Tide
Seiko Prospex SPB189 Nov 25, 2020

HANDS-ON: The new Shogun is finally here in the form of the Seiko Prospex SPB189 and SPB191

OK, let’s start by remembering the SBDC007, the legendary Seiko Shogun. Now I might be slightly biased because, at one point, I had two of them - after reading reviews saying the watch was so good it’d make you forget your other wrist-worn beauties. Well, believe the hype. The watch was that good and pretty … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The new Shogun is finally here in the form of the Seiko Prospex SPB189 and SPB191 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Kikuchi Nakagawa Introduces the Ichimonji SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava ref 96 Nov 24, 2020

Kikuchi Nakagawa Introduces the Ichimonji

Founded by a pair of Japanese watchmakers, Kikuchi Nakagawa got its start in 2018 with the launch of the Murakumo, a time-only wristwatch inspired by the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96 of the 1930s. Now the duo once again look to Swiss watchmaking of the same period for the Ichimonji. Kikuchi Nakagawa’s newest watch sticks to the elegantly focused formula that defined the Murakumo – a black-polished steel case, along with hand-made hands, and a Vaucher movement. The emphasis is recreating the vintage aesthetic as well as honing the case finishing to the highest level. Initial thoughts The appeal of the Ichimonji is very much like that of its predecessor. It looks and feels like a vintage watch, but not quite, because it is clearly finished to a far higher level, a quality that is discernible in how the surfaces catch the light. Design wise the watch faithfully recreates the sensation of a vintage watch, but elevates it to another level of refinement thanks to a keen attention to detail. Take for instance the hour numerals for five and seven, which have been replaced with dots in order to avoid cutaway numerals. And the external finishing of the watch is similarly elevated. In fact, there is likely no other watch in this price segment with a similarly finished case. The case is polished by hand as a movement component would be, as are the hands. While the baton-shaped hands appear similar at a glance, but are actually three dimensional and hand finished to create br...

The most expensive watches sold on eBay in 2020 Time+Tide
Nov 24, 2020

The most expensive watches sold on eBay in 2020

With eBay being one of the largest marketplaces in the world, the go-to platform for sellers looking to find buyers for their goods, it can be home to some of the most desired and in-demand products worldwide – including watches. While some have hesitated to take the plunge on a watch purchase via the site, … ContinuedThe post The most expensive watches sold on eBay in 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Champagne Labruyère And JM Sélèque: The Majesty Of Grower Champagnes Quill & Pad
Casio ns Nov 24, 2020

Champagne Labruyère And JM Sélèque: The Majesty Of Grower Champagnes

Champagne is not a wine that most people enjoy at home or by themselves as they might a good red or a top spirit. Champagne is for occasions and for sharing and enjoying with friends. If times have been tough for the large Champagne-based houses, they have been even worse for many of the small growers and their champagnes. Here Ken Gargett take a look at two up-and-coming growers for your consideration.

HANDS-ON: The IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 Boutique Edition would make Kurt Klaus smile Time+Tide
IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 Nov 24, 2020

HANDS-ON: The IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 Boutique Edition would make Kurt Klaus smile

The perpetual calendar is widely recognised as one of IWC’s greatest strengths. Back in the 1980s, legendary watchmaker Kurt Klaus was challenged to develop a new version of this highly intricate mechanism. He responded with an ingenious upgrade that essentially streamlined the complication by doing away with the correctors and enabling the calendar functions to … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 Boutique Edition would make Kurt Klaus smile appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko Introduces the Seiko 140th Anniversary Re-Creation SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre which Nov 24, 2020

Grand Seiko Introduces the Seiko 140th Anniversary Re-Creation

Announced alongside the exceptional but exorbitant Kintaro Hattori 160th Anniversary, the Seiko 140th Anniversary Limited Edition Re-Creation (ref. SBGW260) is a hand-wound remake of the ref. 3180 of 1960, the first-ever Grand Seiko. And it is a Grand Seiko, but commemorates the 140 years since the founding of Seiko. Notably, its in 18k rose gold, a metal that’s rarely used by Grand Seiko. And although the 9S64 movement inside is an existing calibre, it’s finished more elaborately compared to earlier versions of the movement. Initial thoughts Being a faithful remake, the SBGW260 has the same appeal as the vintage-original Grand Seiko “First”. Although the colour scheme is unusual for a Grand Seiko – this is the first 3180 remake, and one of the few Grand Seikos, in rose gold – the warm palette suits the vintage style. But more notable is the movement upgrade in terms of decoration. Though still the same workhorse 9S64 found in all remakes of the “First”, the movement has been dressed up blued screws and straight graining on the bridges – plus a solid-gold plate for the anniversary – giving it a look usually associated with higher-end Seiko watches, but is increasingly being rolled out across the price spectrum. It isn’t quite the haute horlogerie finish found on movements made at the Micro Artist Studio, but the decoration appears comparable to Swiss brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre, which is to say it’s fine but workmanlike. And while it is hearte...

Bulova makes a scene-stealing cameo in Netflix’s “The Queen’s Gambit” Time+Tide
Bulova makes Nov 24, 2020

Bulova makes a scene-stealing cameo in Netflix’s “The Queen’s Gambit”

Being quarantined in our homes this year has encouraged us to binge more series and films than ever before. Fortunately, it’s the golden age of TV dramas, which means you don’t have to re-watch an episode of The Office or Seinfeld for the 100th time. One such show that has recently taken Netflix by storm is … ContinuedThe post Bulova makes a scene-stealing cameo in Netflix’s “The Queen’s Gambit” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The elegance and nuance of the IWC Portugieser 2020 Collection in the metal Time+Tide
IWC Portugieser 2020 Collection Nov 23, 2020

HANDS-ON: The elegance and nuance of the IWC Portugieser 2020 Collection in the metal

Earlier this year, in April, the IWC Portugieser 2020 Collection was announced at Watches & Wonders. The Portugieser was created in 1939 due to a demand for a marine-deck chronometer experience that could be translated into a wristwatch. Legibility and accuracy are the two pillars that hold up the Portugieser line, and IWC has changed … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The elegance and nuance of the IWC Portugieser 2020 Collection in the metal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Ulysse Nardin Freak X Magma is the creativity you asked for, but do you really want it? Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin Freak X Magma Nov 23, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Ulysse Nardin Freak X Magma is the creativity you asked for, but do you really want it?

Watching on from the sidelines, consumers on social media constantly beg the watch industry to put the novel in novelties, asking for original, fresh, and forward-thinking designs in a conventional and traditional industry. Instead, we get 1mm variations in size, a new dial colour, and the crowd goes wild to the extent that boggles the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Ulysse Nardin Freak X Magma is the creativity you asked for, but do you really want it? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Laureato Ghost SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Introduces Nov 23, 2020

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Laureato Ghost

One of the earliest entrants in the luxury-sports watches segment, the Girard-Perragaux Laureato made its debut in 1975. But the model did not remain in production consistently, and only recently enjoyed a revival with a relaunch in 2017. With its relaunch, the Laureato line up now includes complications like the tourbillon, exotic case materials like sapphire, and onyx stone dials. The latest is perhaps the most striking version to date: the Laureato Ghost that was designed in collaboration with Bamford Watch Department (BWD) and rendered entirely in white ceramic. George Bamford with the Laureato Ghost Founded by George Bamford, the fashion and watch entrepreneur who’s the son of construction-equipment tycoon Sir Anthony Bamford, BWD started out as an after-market customiser of Rolex watches and swiftly became one of the preeminent brands in that niche. But BWD has since evolved into an officially-endorsed customiser (albeit not by Rolex), having received the stamp of approval from various watchmakers, most notably from the brands owned by LVMH, namely TAG Heuer and Zenith. The Laureato Ghost is the first collaboration between BWD and Girard-Perregaux (GP), having been rolled out for the 45th anniversary of the Laureato, explaining the small, 45-piece run. Initial thoughts Named Ghost because of its singular colour palette, the watch is attractive in its simplicity. BWD’s house style is often characterised by an all-black finish, making the all-white Laureato Ghos...

MICRO MONDAYS: The AVI-8 Hawker Harrier Blue Nylon Limited Edition Time+Tide
Nov 22, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: The AVI-8 Hawker Harrier Blue Nylon Limited Edition

Pilot’s watches have always been a strong category for watch consumers around the world, drawing an emotional and heritage-driven connection to the symbiosis between aviation and horology. Inspired by a Harrier XV741 flown in a 1969 Transatlantic Air Race from London to New York, AVI-8 offers a value-driven pilot’s watch designed with a clear and detailed … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The AVI-8 Hawker Harrier Blue Nylon Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Greubel Forsey Balancier S: The New (Atypical) Shape Of Ultra-High-End Sport Watches Quill & Pad
Greubel Forsey Balancier S Nov 22, 2020

Greubel Forsey Balancier S: The New (Atypical) Shape Of Ultra-High-End Sport Watches

There are thousands of things to love about Greubel Forsey watches, but the thing that has always been the hook in the root of Joshua Munchow's brain is the variety of distinct shapes that atypically assemble to create very unique timepieces. With the release of 2020's Balancier S, yet another inspiring set of shapes entered his universe, which he share with us here.

The full story behind the Electric Feels of the Linde Werdelin Oktopus Blue Sea, a late-night disco diver for the wrist Time+Tide
Linde Werdelin Nov 22, 2020

The full story behind the Electric Feels of the Linde Werdelin Oktopus Blue Sea, a late-night disco diver for the wrist

Despite my Nordic roots and name, it’s beginning to occur to me that I’m not cool enough for the new Linde Werdelin. The Swiss-Danish watchmaker is well known for their decidedly strong design language. Increasingly, they’re nearly as well known for their stoic refusal to be deterred from banking all on it. Today, it’s the … ContinuedThe post The full story behind the Electric Feels of the Linde Werdelin Oktopus Blue Sea, a late-night disco diver for the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.