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Monochrome
When Louis Vuitton unveiled the original Escale Worldtime at Baselworld in 2014, it caught the watch world by surprise. Not so much because of the technical part, but because of the attitude. Worldtimers were and still are conservative objects, often bound by the nearly 100-year-old Louis Cottier template and a pretty much shared visual. The […]
Teddy Baldassarre
To many watch enthusiasts today, Nivada Grenchen is a boutique watchmaker that seemed to pop up out of nowhere several years ago and quickly found itself in the neo-vintage price-to-value conversation, alongside a handful of other start-up microbrands. But in actuality, the brand turns 100 years old this year, and its retro-stylish, mostly tool-oriented watches are not merely following a trend of evoking a fondly remembered era of watch design; they are actually modern remakes of watches that the brand released decades ago. [toc-section heading="Nivada Grenchen History & Highlights"] Watchmaker Jacob Schneider established the workshop that became the Nivada brand in 1926, in the Swiss town of Grenchen (its Swiss-German name; the French-Swiss call it “Granges”). Unlike many of its contemporaries, which were still focusing on high-luxury timepieces, Nivada Grenchen put its emphasis from the start on practical, reliable tool watches, quickly gaining acclaim for its developments in this area. Schneider’s company also was among the first to merge traditional Swiss watchmaking techniques with emerging industrial technologies. Starting in the 1930s, Nivada Grenchen became one of the first Swiss watchmaking companies to mass produce watches with automatic movements - an invention that had only been around since John Harwood patented the first one in 1923. Nivada Grenchen (the “Grenchen” was officially added to the brand name after litigation by Movado, which was conc...
SJX Watches
Interesting news just out of Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC), the venerable Swiss chronometer testing body, which has just announced a major revamp to its testing to honour the COSC’s standard’s 50th anniversary. Excellence Chronometer, COSC’s new and improved certification program, goes beyond the ISO 3159 norm that has defined its tests for decades. Instead of just testing movements, Excellence Chronometer will require completed, cased watches to run within -2/+4 seconds a day, as well as pass wear simulation and magnetism tests. Initial thoughts While COSC remains the primary chronometer testing body in Switzerland, thanks largely to Rolex, its protocols have been due for an update for some time now. With the rise of alternative and in-house precision testing programs, the standard chronometer certification can sometimes feel left behind. Rolex’s own Superlative Chronometer certification first requires a COSC certificate, but then makes sure the watches run at -2/+2 seconds per day after further in-house testing. The METAS Chronometer program also requires the standard COSC certificate, but guarantees a regulation of 0/+5 seconds per day and a great resistance to magnetic fields. Seeing that COSC slowly updates and imposes more stringent criteria is a good sign, but it may still not be good enough. With the rise of advanced internal certification programs, it looks like some brands submit their models to COSC testing just to make sure they can...
Deployant
As part of our special tour on our visit to Tokyo recently, we were treated to a special glimpse of how Sumo wrestlers do their morning training.
Monochrome
It was hard not to love, or at least feel some tenderness towards the Orient Bambino models (especially the Classic) released by the brand to mark its 75th anniversary. We are tempted again with the M45 F7 Small Second, as Orient Star (established in 1951, part of Seiko Epson since 2017) expands its Classic Collection […]
Monochrome
What is a chronometer…? In short, it is a watch that has been officially tested for its precision. And to guarantee the precision of watches, several tools exist, such as the ISO 3159 standard (which celebrates its 50th anniversary this year) and official organisations, such as the Observatoire de Besançon in France, the Glashütte Observatory […]
Hodinkee
Baltic says goodbye to a great model with a glossy black dial and a splash of bling.
Monochrome
Baltic was founded in Paris by Étienne Malec and launched via Kickstarter in 2017 with a captivating duo of 1940s-inspired models. Onwards and upwards, the brand now has over ten collections under its belt, many with an emphasis on mid-20th-century aesthetics, and keeps prices in check by outsourcing movements and assembling them in Besançon, France. […]
Time+Tide
These two releases mark the slimmest and smallest-in-diameter Grand Seiko 9F quartz watches ever produced.The post Grand Seiko introduces its new 9F51 quartz calibre with the stylish SBGX359 and SBGX361 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
You can be a fan of Van Gogh while knowing you will never, ever have one of his works hanging on your wall. Can you be a fan of watches while being aware that you can’t afford the objects of your desire? Yes, you can, but only if you can let go of the concept […] Visit Inclusive Exclusive Watchmaking - What’s It All About? to read the full article.
Fratello
For many of us, there’s a clear line between the watches we liked and the first one we considered “serious.” Maybe it was the first mechanical piece we bought with our hard-earned money. Maybe it was the first watch that required actual research, comparison, and a deep breath before hitting “confirm order.” In today’s episode […] Visit Fratello Talks: Different Approaches To Buying Your First “Serious” Watch to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko has installed its high-end quartz calibre 9F in a 33 mm stainless steel case with fan-favourite textured dials, making one of the most advanced analogue quartz movements available in the smallest and slimmest format to date. The compact proportions of the Grand Seiko Heritage Collection Quartz 33mm “Snowflake” SBGX359 and “Skyflake” SBGX361 are possible thanks to a new member of the 9F family: the cal. 9F51. Though smaller, the new calibre retains all the technical bells and whistles of this class-leading quartz platform. Ref. SBGX359 (Snowflake). Initial thoughts While Grand Seiko’s quartz models are generally known as good value propositions, with the cal. 9F in particular representing a lot of movement for the money, that has generally been less true of the brand’s smaller models. These maintain the brand’s standout case and dial work but with relatively pedestrian cal. 4J movements. Though above average in terms of quality and technology, the cal. 4J lacks the torque necessary to accommodate the exceptionally large and refined hands found on most Grand Seikos. Ref. SBGX361 (Skyflake). Given the brand’s recent emphasis on Spring Drive technology, seemingly at the expense of battery-powered quartz movements, that seemed unlikely to change. In this context, this duo is a pleasant surprise, with more likely to follow, and offers a no-compromise Grand Seiko experience in a smaller size without the high price tags of the ladies automatic line. A ...
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet’s Code 11.59 has spent much of its life living in the shadow of the Royal Oak, but the latest 38 mm iteration suggests the collection might be finding its footing. The smaller Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding 38 mm refines the line’s distinctive case architecture with more convincing proportions, slimmer leather straps, and richly textured embossed dials. Neither overtly sporty nor conventionally dressy, the 18k rose gold Code 11.59 positions itself as a modern dress watch with real character that is quite convincing on the wrist. Initial thoughts It’s no secret that the Code 11.59 lives in the shadow of AP’s flagship product, the Royal Oak. In the seven years since its debut, the Code has yet to have its breakout moment. Many may remember the troubled launch of the collection, which met with an unnecessarily negative response from the market. But there’s a thin line between love and hate, and AP has been steadily improving the proportions, textures, materials, and complications over the past few years, and the tipping point could be imminent. The Code claims the middle ground in the false dichotomy between dressy and sporty, which makes it difficult for casual enthusiasts and collectors to fully understand. The 38 mm size, now with a new strap design, helps position the Code more concretely in the the dress watch camp, where its 9.6 mm thickness and 30 m water resistance rating feel more appropriate. Despite the criticism that’s been l...
Worn & Wound
So vast and varied is the Citizen lineup, that it’s easy to miss new releases, even when they definitely shouldn’t be missed. It’s that breadth and diversity of models that make Citizen such a storied brand, and two new Promaster models are fresh on the scene to add even more flavor. The Promaster Land GMT touts travel-ready capabilities of the Promaster Air GMT, but focuses it on grounded robustness instead of pilot task-managing. All of that sounds complicated, but really boils down to aesthetics, materials, and sizing. With two dial color options, the Promaster Land is burly and simple, but bold enough to catch some attention on the wrist. Both models feature a 39.5mm stainless steel case with a fixed 24-hour GMT bezel, giving the watch a muscular, no-nonsense silhouette, whether on the provided bracelet or strap. Even numbers receive the numeral treatment on the bezel, with indices marking the odds. The crown sits at 6 o’clock, matching the date window, and providing a standard, balanced profile that appears almost soft, given the dimensions of the case, and the typeface used. The two dial colors reflect the practicality-first design ethos of the Promaster Land: red and blue, or reference BJ7150-50W and BJ7150-09L respectively. Both feature the same detail accoutrements, with large, effortlessly visible white numerals and hour, minute, and second hands, and a yellow, arrow-tipped GMT hand. A relatively subtle minute track circles the dial, but doesn’t dra...
Worn & Wound
There is nothing more effective than the swap of a digit on the calendar to send the whole world into self-reflection mode. As we collectively adjust to a six that replaced a five, many of us have the best intention of making changes that stick around long enough to see that six turn into a seven. Personally, I find there is no better exercise to guide new resolutions than to take stock of the old ones. Non-watch related, dry January turned into dry 2025, and I’m down two links (normal people measure progress in pounds, but bracelet size has become my preferred watch nerd metric). I resumed progress on that half-finished MBA that’s been hanging over my head, and I spent more time playing board games with my kids than the year before. Watch-specific, after five years of constant buying and selling, I decided to go an entire year without purchasing any new watches. Even though it was a lofty goal and one that collectors seeking change often fantasize about without following through, I actually managed to spend 2025 without a substantial #NWA (new watch announcement) post on Instagram. In full transparency, I did pick up a couple of cheap vintage quartz pieces. But us watch enthusiasts have clever ways of rationalizing why certain purchases don’t count (I think we can all agree G-SHOCKs fall into this bucket), and I’m pretending like those pickups don’t exist. After all, neither were “new” and one has already found a new home. During this prolonged period of...
Hodinkee
An interesting porpoise for this new release with a mother-of-pearl dial.
Monochrome
There are many objects that come to mind when you mention the word Montblanc, starting with high-end writing instruments, leather goods, and, since 1997, watches. As a brand that has always been associated with Europe’s highest mountain, thanks to its white star logo representing a bird’s-eye view of the snow-capped peaks of Mont Blanc, Montblanc’s […]
Time+Tide
The overlap between car enthusiasts and watch enthusiasts is huge, but it seems as if the car industry might actually be doing more for enthusiasts.The post What can the watch world learn from the enthusiast car market? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Universal Genève Polerouter is probably the most historically significant watch that enthusiasts of a certain age have never heard of. Okay, maybe that's overstating it, but the watch is certainly less, well, universal in its claim to icon status than several other, more well known models that debuted later. And yet, if it weren't for the Polerouter, which came out in the mid-1950s and which afforded an opportunity for a young, precocious watch designer to make his first mark on the industry, we may never have had the opportunity to experience some of those 1970s models that came later. Intrigued? Read on. [toc-section heading="Universal Genève History (1894 - 1950s)"] Despite the “Genève” that has become attached to the company’s name, the firm originally known as Universal Watch traces its roots to a smaller Swiss city, the village of Le Locle (also home to Ulysse Nardin, Zenith, and Tissot), where it was established in 1894 by watchmakers Numa-Emile Descombes and Ulysse-Georges Perret. Descombes died a few years later, and Louis Berthoud, one of the company’s most talented watchmakers, rose from the ranks to become Perret’s partner in 1897. The pair moved operations to Geneva in 1919, forging the company's modern name and identity. The firm became known for chronographs, and eventually produced both pocket watches and trench watches (pocket watches converted to wristwatches for soldiers in the field) for armies on both sides of the two World Wars. O...
Teddy Baldassarre
A lot of women collectors we know have pieces made for men and unisex pieces. we want to look at watches that are labeled more as women’s pieces by the industry, as we talk about those other watches quite regularly, and want to talk about pieces we don’t highlight as frequently. We are watch enthusiasts, so most of th
Fratello
Not too long ago, we saw almost a flurry of historic watch brands revived. Just when this trend seems to have died down somewhat, here we have Niton. A house originally dating back to 1919 and since lost to history (more on that later) makes a comeback today. This debut results in the aptly named […] Visit Introducing: The Niton Prima - A Historical Watch Brand Returns To The Scene to read the full article.
Deployant
Louis Vuitton's project with independent watchmakers is now in Chapter 3. Here is our review of the Louis Vuitton x De Bethune LVDB-03 Louis Varius Project.
Fratello
This year marks 180 years since Fears Watch Company Limited’s foundation in 1846 and a respectable 10 years since its reestablishment by Edwin Fear’s great-great-great-grandson, Nicholas Bowman-Scargill. That means there’s a good reason for a celebration, and following the announcement of the Brunswick 40 “1846 Edition” in January, the British brand keeps the ball rolling […] Visit Introducing: The Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour “Celestial” Limited Edition to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet (AP) has updated the coveted Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked, which makes its debut on the next-generation perpetual calendar platform that debuted last year. The new calibre allows for individual adjustment of each calendar indication using just the crown – no stylus (or toothpick) necessary. The first outing for the skeletonised version of this class-leading perpetual calendar is in titanium, with mirror polished accents in scratch-resistant Palladium BMG and pops of rose gold on the dial and case back, though more colourways are sure to come in due time. Initial thoughts The latest generation of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar is arguably AP’s strongest product. It is heir to the archetypal integrated bracelet perpetual calendar sports watch, which, until recently, was held back to some extent by what had become a dated movement. In fairness, the same can be said of its obvious competitors from Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. That changed in 2025 when the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar was upgraded with the AP’s latest perpetual calendar movement, a significant release befitting the brand’s 150th anniversary year. The calibre 7138 introduced individual correction of the date, day, month, and moon phase using only the crown, allowing for quick adjustment without tools and with greater flexibility, and support for more indications, than existing solutions. And while we already understood the movement’s clever functionality, it rema...
Worn & Wound
The great thing about watches is that, although they all essentially do the same thing, plus or minus some bells and whistles, there are an infinite number of ways to achieve it. Whether through form, function, or fashion, cleverness finds a way. I’ve been looking at watches for almost my entire life, but professionally for 15 years, and I can still be surprised and excited by a new release. It’s part of what makes this industry so great to be a part of. But, this isn’t about me; rather, it’s about a watch that both surprised and excited: the Niton Prima. Niton (pronounced nee-tone) is an old and obscure brand name revived by two veterans of the watch industry, Leopoldo Celi and Yvan Ketterer, who combined have several decades of experience in design, production, and marketing. Originally founded in 1919, Niton was known for its movement manufacturing and for supplying to brands such as Patek, Cartier, and Chopard. It was also one of the largest producers of movements with Geneva Seal certification. A certification dating to 1886, among its many requirements, which cover everything from reliability to finishing standards, are that movements are assembled, adjusted, and cased in Geneva. credit: Bonhams In 1928, Niton registered a jump-hour design with a distinct display, placing the hour window above separate minute and seconds sub-dials, much like a regulator. Featured in wrist watches and pocketwatches, it’s this complication, identified by Leopoldo and Yvan as ...
Monochrome
The Legacy Machine collection has always been MB&F;‘s most paradoxical line. Conceived as a tribute to 19th-century watchmaking, it features some of the most theatrical three-dimensional movements in contemporary horology. The LM101, introduced in 2014, was the most restrained expression of that idea. Smaller, thinner, and mechanically simpler than its siblings, it stripped the concept […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko has one of the most expansive catalogs in the watch industry, which is key to the Japanese brand’s prowess, but its nuances can also make it quite overwhelming at times to sort through from a consumer perspective. Today, I’m going for hyperspecificity on multiple levels, not only focusing on the brand’s “Luxe” tier, but also on a specific series within that tier, and on one watch, well, specifically. As you’ve likely already noticed from this article's title, we’re gathered here today to jump into the deep end with the Presage Classics Craftsmanship Series SPB495. Though its name doesn’t exactly roll off the tongue, the Seiko Presage SPB495, to me, truly demonstrates the dynamic range to be found within the contemporary Seiko lineup, given that you have the patience to sort through the complexities of the brand’s collections and naming convention nuances. [toc-section heading="History And Context"] Seiko’s Craftsmanship series officially made its start in 2013 as the brand celebrated its centennial anniversary. Positioned within the larger Presage collection, this initiative has been a way for the brand to further enhance the collection's foundational elements, mainly being a mechanical line, guided by and harkening to Seiko’s centuries-long history, with a focused attention to its dials. Essentially, the Craftsmanship series adds in more sophisticated, high-end elements into the mix, paying tribute to many traditional, artisanal techniques th...
Hodinkee
If a hyper-futuristic Urwerk wasn't enough of a statement, you can now wear a ceramic example that tells you how long it will take for light to reach planets you'll never visit.
Time+Tide
Watch Ho & Co and Selten pay tribute to Hong Kong's famous floral emblem with a sequel to their stunning MOP dial collab.The post The Watch Ho & Co x Selten Jui Bauhinia offers a familiar 39mm platform, now with Bauhinia light-play appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Do you remember that scene in The Ten Commandments when Charlton Heston’s Moses walks down the mountain with those giant stone tablets? I’m pretty sure the first commandment on his list was “EVENTUALLY, ALL WATCH BRANDS MUST MAKE AN INTEGRATED BRACELET SPORTS WATCH!” Does that sound right? I could be misremembering some of the finer details of the film, but I’m pretty sure that’s a thing that happened. Because eventually, as we continue to discover month after month, year after year, all brands do try their hand at an integrated bracelet sports watch. Even the ones you might not expect. Like Ming. Today, Ming introduces the 56.00 Starfield, their first integrated bracelet sports watch. Perhaps it’s a little shortsighted of me to suggest that we couldn’t have expected something like this from Ming. In a lot of ways, it’s exactly the kind of watch we should expect, because one of the ideas that really seems to drive the brand is solving big design challenges. Integrated bracelet sports watches have a natural aesthetic appeal in the way form a continuous line all around the wrist. The challenge is in making them feel special and unique. The “good” integrated bracelet sports watches tend to all have a somewhat similar appearance simply because there are only so many ways you can accomplish the most basic goals of a watch like this without going completely off the rails. Ming’s stated goal with the Starfield was to make a watch more comfortable to we...
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