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The 1985 Swatch Consolidation

How Nicolas Hayek\'s ASUAG/SSIH merger (1983) and Swatch brand launch (March 1983) rescued Swiss watchmaking from the quartz crisis.

Year in Review: The Best Watches of 2021 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Westminster Sonnerie Dec 27, 2021

Year in Review: The Best Watches of 2021

A trend that has been repeating across industries during 2021 also transformed the luxury-watch business during the year – an insatiable demand for watches and supply perennially falling short. Although there were new launches throughout the year – which kept enthusiasts continually entertained – the “novelties” for 2021 were mostly not the sort typical of the go-go years. New products was arguably less exciting than business would imply, largely because new watches take several years to develop and the uptick in business became seemingly overnight. Many high-profile new launches were predictable variations of familiar models. A seemingly familiar variation but actually something entirely new and one of the top watches of 2021 Nevertheless, there were standouts. Here are a dozen of the year’s best watches picked by our editors (or even owned by some of them, but alas not the Vermeer). Led by a magnificent art-complication, the list includes several technical highlights – from an impressive time-only movement from Patek Philippe to Richard Mille’s ingenious winding mechanism – and of course a few affordable watches on the list. All-in-one Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Westminster Sonnerie – Tribute to Johannes Vermeer: “This pocket watch is the epitome of high-end horology, blending both art and engineering. While the base movement within is derived from the mega-complicated Ref. 57260 pocket watch, the Vermeer’s movement has arguably been cl...

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Blue Sapphire Time+Tide
Hublot Spirit Dec 27, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Blue Sapphire

When the price of a watch crosses into six figures, you usually know that it’s getting serious. The manufacturing, finishing, movement engineering, and even the strap are all expected to be on a totally new level to anything else. But, with great expense, also comes great freedom, as watch manufacturers can afford to spend way … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Blue Sapphire appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Finding beauty in the beast: A brief history of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore As Dec 26, 2021

Finding beauty in the beast: A brief history of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore

As a twin, I understand the notion of being in the shadow of a sibling. Today, when collectors discuss the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak you typically hear about the birthing of the luxury sports-watch trend and the elevation of steel – not so precious in its medium, but very precious in its construction with top-notch … ContinuedThe post Finding beauty in the beast: A brief history of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Hublot One Click Range explores the Swiss brand’s feminine side Time+Tide
Hublot One Click Range explores Dec 25, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Hublot One Click Range explores the Swiss brand’s feminine side

Hublot has a reputation that it upholds firmly. It’s one of masculinity, industrial design, and a sporty capability reinforced by adorning the wrists of celebrity athletes. While this reputation has been integral to their personality since their rise in the 1980s, this love-it-or-hate-it image has caused a massive divide amongst watch fans. Even their Millennial … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot One Click Range explores the Swiss brand’s feminine side appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The 5 watches that defined TAG Heuer’s year Time+Tide
TAG Heuer s year TAG Heuer Dec 24, 2021

VIDEO: The 5 watches that defined TAG Heuer’s year

TAG Heuer have enjoyed an eventful year, releasing some gorgeous watches that flex their capabilities beyond their standard lineups while staying true to their inherent DNA. Perhaps the best example of this was their collaboration with Porsche in the TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph Special Edition, embracing the racing ancestry that the Swiss brand carries … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The 5 watches that defined TAG Heuer’s year appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Dec 24, 2021

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface

One of Vacheron Constantin’s more affordable complicated timepieces, the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar was recently refreshed with a smartly minimalist palette of white gold and grey. And the watchmaker has quickly followed up with the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface, which is more striking – with more complicated aesthetics – thanks to a see-through dial that reveals the calendar works. Initial thoughts Eminently different from the standard version, the Openface is a strong addition to the brand’s calendar line up, especially for those who find the standard models too simple in style – it has a notably unique aesthetic. The new look is the result of a surprisingly simple upgrade. Instead of a skeletonised movement – which is the norm for open-faced watches but far more costly – this has a transparent dial that showcases the intricate wheels and jumpers of the calendar module. Simple as it is, the Openface is nevertheless thoughtfully executed. In typical Vacheron Constantin fashion, attention has been paid to the details in both design and finish to create a pleasing, refined look. One example is the upper section of the dial that’s finished with a radial guilloche, which contrasts with the lower portion in sapphire, giving it visual definition (while also highlighting the branding). The hour markers are secured with feet on both ends, instead of being cantilevered, for extra stability And despite the complex appearance, legibility has prese...

WHO TO FOLLOW: The masterful photographic stylings of @waitlisted Time+Tide
Dec 24, 2021

WHO TO FOLLOW: The masterful photographic stylings of @waitlisted

If you’re a New York City watch collector and have attended any watch event in the past two years, chances are you’ve met this week’s follow. He’s a quiet photographer whose images breathe fresh air into the repetitive soldier shots of watch adverts. His use of colour, reflections and an absolute mastery of the macro … ContinuedThe post WHO TO FOLLOW: The masterful photographic stylings of @waitlisted appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang King Gold Rainbow is drenched in multicoloured gems Time+Tide
Hublot Spirit Dec 23, 2021

The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang King Gold Rainbow is drenched in multicoloured gems

Rainbow watches are possibly the most divisive sub-genre around. They’re loud, they’re blingy, and the word ostentatious barely even begins to cover them. Yet no matter how many people swear they would never be caught dead wearing one, I would bet that there’s a nagging voice in the back of everyone’s minds just wishing to … ContinuedThe post The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang King Gold Rainbow is drenched in multicoloured gems appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Taking flight with the Longines Spirit Collection Time+Tide
Longines Spirit Collection Longines have Dec 22, 2021

VIDEO: Taking flight with the Longines Spirit Collection

Longines have bided their time in launching a comprehensive line of wrist-ready pilot watches that are suited to any occasion. While their historical contributions in aviation can’t be ignored, working alongside gargantuan names such as Amelia Earhart, Charles Lindbergh and Philip Van Horn Weems, the Heritage lineup of watches that Longines have sold for years … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Taking flight with the Longines Spirit Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Philippe Dufour’s Reaction To The CHF 11,494,000 Auction Results Of His Grande Et Petite Sonneries, Duality, And Simplicity Plus A Hint Of Something New (Video) Quill & Pad
Dec 21, 2021

Philippe Dufour’s Reaction To The CHF 11,494,000 Auction Results Of His Grande Et Petite Sonneries, Duality, And Simplicity Plus A Hint Of Something New (Video)

In this video, Philippe Dufour and Claude Sfeir discuss the results of the November 2021 Phillips auction featuring the Grande et Petite Sonnerie No. 1 pocket watch (1989), the Grande et Petite Sonnerie wristwatch (1992), the Duality (1996), and the Simplicity (2004). And they drop a hint that something new might well be in the works.

VIDEO: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43mm in titanium – less large, still very much in charge Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43mm Dec 21, 2021

VIDEO: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43mm in titanium – less large, still very much in charge

Audemars Piguet have definitely thought outside of the box with many of their recent designs, such as the Code 11:59, Royal Oak Concepts, and the Black Panther, leveraging their traditional know-how to create modern timepieces the other Holy Trinity brands would never dream up. But they also understand when it is time to refine rather … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43mm in titanium – less large, still very much in charge appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Star Bar Limited Edition Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Dec 20, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Star Bar Limited Edition

Seiko (and Grand Seiko) lead the watch world in drawing inspiration from nature, especially for their dials.  Seasons, textures, materials and surfaces, drawn together with colours, translucency and reflectivity.  Many are not only visually clear in their story, but Seiko also wraps words around each creation taking us on a journey to a location, perhaps … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Star Bar Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Richard Mille Introduces the RM 35-03 Automatic Rafael Nadal SJX Watches
Richard Mille Introduces Dec 20, 2021

Richard Mille Introduces the RM 35-03 Automatic Rafael Nadal

Unquestionably the preeminent maker of exotic – and ultra-luxury – sports watches, Richard Mille has just taken the covers off a simple but intriguing watch, the RM 35-03 Automatic Rafael Nadal. Like earlier watches made for the Spanish tennis player, the RM 35-03 incorporates technical features to cater to the intense nature of the game – at least the way Mr Nadal plays tennis. And in this instance it’s a rotor with variable winding modes. As a result, winding can be halted during a game, preventing excess wear on the winding mechanism. Initial thoughts The RM 35-03 is a time-only watch – it lacks a tourbillon unlike the better-known RM 27 Nadal  – but it has all the qualities that makes it a Richard Mille, most notably the lightweight, tonneau-shaped case in brightly coloured carbon composite along with a skeletonised dial. It’s a look that screams Richard Mille, and also a signifier of wealth and status, since the watch is hard to get and also extremely expensive for a time-only. But fortunately the RM 35 does possess technical qualities that make it interesting despite being a “hype” watch. This version has the front and back case plates in white Quartz TPT and Carbon TPT, with a case middle in Carbon TPT A second variant with the entire case in Quartz TPT The highlight of the RM 35-03 is the patented, “butterfly” rotor, which is essentially comprised of two halves that can be rearranged – thanks to a smartly simple mechanism – in order to v...