Deployant
Independent Watchmaking: Six of the Lesser Known Players in the Field
In this week's column, we dive into the rabbit hole of independent watchmaking, with a series of less-known yet remarkable independent watchmakers.
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Deployant
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Eden Rock St Barths is an even more limited twist on the Unico Sky Blue
Last year, Hublot introduced a Big Bang Unico Sky Blue – which we raved about due to its eye-popping hue in a year where blue dominated the market. Limited to 100 pieces, the watch subsequently sold out. Yet buyers who missed out may now have the opportunity to secure something similar, although subtle and clear … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Eden Rock St Barths is an even more limited twist on the Unico Sky Blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The IWC Portugieser is having a moment from Squid Game and Hot Ones to The Rock
When I was bingeing Squid Game – the record-breaking Netflix series that has become a global phenomenon – I paused the show more than I would have liked trying to figure out which watch lead actor Lee Jung-jae was wearing. To be honest, I still don’t know. But the next best thing would be to figure … ContinuedThe post The IWC Portugieser is having a moment from Squid Game and Hot Ones to The Rock appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Review: the new Luminox Commando Raider
The Luminox Commando Raider is an unusually bright Luminox, which has mostly opted for black or darker colored dial variants. It provides a more vibrant variant for those who appreciate a little more fanfare but maybe less appreciated by those who want more tactical accessorizing. That said, the bright green is not a blocker for those who prefer a tactical color, since there is also a black strap variant.
Time+Tide
What’s the connection between The Matrix and the Hamilton PSR MTX Limited Edition? We have the exclusive…
Hamilton loves to tell a great story with each of their new releases. This facet of the brand is recognised by many of their partners. Typically speaking, when their products appear in films or video games, the entities behind them approach Hamilton for a collaboration. But in the instance of the new Hamilton PSR MTX … ContinuedThe post What’s the connection between The Matrix and the Hamilton PSR MTX Limited Edition? We have the exclusive… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
Max Büsser and Antoine Pin Discuss the MB&F; x BULGARI Legacy Machine FlyingT Allegra
Quill & Pad
The Schmidt List: 5 Extraordinary Balance Wheels – Reprise
The balance wheel, the critical regulatory organ of a mechanical watch, is expected to deliver a consistent frequency with a tolerance of as little as 0.001 percent. With so much at stake, why complicate things by altering a pure and simple geometric shape? Why reinvent the wheel? Well, here are five balances that definitely did reinvent the wheel.
Hodinkee
The Value Proposition: Skip The Watches That Pay Homage To The Military – And Get The Marathon They Actually Use
If it's good enough for the battlefield, it's good enough for your daily duties.
SJX Watches
Sarpaneva Introduces the Sarpaneva x Moomin
Finnish watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva had a hit on his hands with last year’s S.U.F. Helsinki x Moomin, a limited edition made to mark 75 years of the titular Swedish comic strip about trolls. Now the watchmaker is following up with the Sarpaneva x Moomin, which is seemingly identical in terms of design but actually an entirely different watch. Crucially, this is a Sarpaneva wristwatch, unlike last year’s Moomin edition, which was an S.U.F. Helsinki, a line of affordable watches spun off from Sarpaneva. Being a Sarpaneva, it is a higher end product, it has the decoration and finishing typical of Sarpaneva wristwatches, as well as the corresponding price. Initial thoughts Having enjoying a brisk sellout last year, the Moomin watch making a comeback is not a surprise. Ordinarily I don’t like repeats of the same thing, but here it’s not exactly the same thing. And in fact the new Moomin watch is tangibly superior. Sarpaneva is repeating the idea with a twist, putting the same design into a watch with better fit and finish. One obvious example of that improvement is the open-worked chapter ring around the dial, which is finished by hand with circular graining and polished bevels. Another is the skeletonised rotor with the Sarpaneva moon “face” and solid-gold weights. While the intrinsic quality of the watch justifies the price, I would have hoped the dial motif would be different. Even though the dial is fancier with the hand-finished chapter ring, the primary moti...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Baltic Bicompax Pulso made for Revolution and The Rake
As far as microbrands are concerned, Baltic is slowly reaching iconic status. There was a strong showing at this year’s Pink Dial Project auction for breast cancer awareness, research and cure. That was followed by Only Watch, where a proverbial who’s who of brands presented amazing offerings. Their Pulsomètre Chronographe Monopusher nearly tripled the high … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Baltic Bicompax Pulso made for Revolution and The Rake appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Introducing the Baltic Bicompax Pulso for Revolution & The Rake
More than just selling watches, Etienne Malec wants to create well-designed, high-quality mechanical watches with price points that appeal to a new generation. Here, we cast the spotlight on his brand, Baltic Watches, and present our collaboration with them - a pulsometer chronograph that is a fantastic value proposition.
Video
Understanding the Tudor Pelagos FXD
Hodinkee
To Be Precise: The Improbable Rise Of The Co-Axial Escapement
The lever escapement works great. So why did one stubborn man decide to fix what wasn't broken?
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Zenith DEFY Zero-G and 21 Double Tourbillon are clear-cut winners in sapphire crystal
Sapphire crystal. Known for its durability and high transparency, it’s the number one choice for top watch brands around the world, providing a window for the beautiful dials that are on display. However, recently, brands have been experimenting with the material to be more than just a window. Instead, they want to create a full … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Zenith DEFY Zero-G and 21 Double Tourbillon are clear-cut winners in sapphire crystal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The New Rolex Explorer II Ref. 226570, In Both Polar And Black
The differences are in the details.
Time+Tide
WHAT TWEAKS MY TOURB: Clasps that create fixed length longer than the lug-to-lug measurement of a case
Editor’s Note: Welcome to our new series, “What Tweaks My Tourb” in which Zach shares the watch-related irks and peeves that leave him exasperated. First up: size matters. Clasp size that is… To some this won’t be noticeable, as this is typically a symptom of a smaller wrist, but there is nothing worse than falling in love … ContinuedThe post WHAT TWEAKS MY TOURB: Clasps that create fixed length longer than the lug-to-lug measurement of a case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The one-off Parmigiani Fleurier La Rose Carrée flexes the horological might of the manufacture
If you asked me which watch brands the mass marketplace needs to pay greater attention to, Parmigiani Fleurier would genuinely be on my list. In watchmaking, there are at times silent heroes who don’t get their due – even though they work with or supply movements to more household name brands. If you are a … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The one-off Parmigiani Fleurier La Rose Carrée flexes the horological might of the manufacture appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
The 'Fratelloris' Big Crown Bronze Pointer Date is a patina-fest 6 months on 🍷
Revolution
Introducing The Seiko Prospex SRPH43K1 and Seiko Presage SPB273J1
Seiko launches the all new Prospex SRPH43K1 and Seiko Presage SPB273J1 just ahead of the year-end holiday season.
SJX Watches
Baltic Introduces the Titanium Collection for Perpétuel
Dubai-based retailer Perpétuel opened last year with its first limited edition, a pair of watches by Baltic. Now the French brand is once again creating a limited-edition series of watches for Perpétuel, the UAE 50th Anniversary Titanium Collection. The three-piece limited edition is marks the first time that Baltic is using titanium for its cases, which have all been steel to date. And as is expected, the maker of affordable, vintage-inspired watches has customised the edition for Perpétuel’s home region, with all three watches having Eastern-Arabic numerals on the dials (as well as the bezel in the case of the GMT). Initial thoughts Baltic’s standard models are appealing because they have a simple, vintage-inspired style that’s nothing too fancy but still attractive, plus they are strongly affordable. The tweaks made to the designs for the Perpetual editions are modest but boost the charm of the watches. I especially like the HMS and Chronograph. While the sector-ish dial is a familiar vintage look, the two-tone finish is fairly novel and also striking. And the graceful calligraphy of the Eastern-Arabic numerals complement the design and colours well. The Eastern-Arabic numerals on the GMT bezel don’t work as well for me. One reason is stylistic – the simple forms of the hour markers don’t match the elegant Arabic script. And the other is functional since I am unfamiliar with the script so the bezel is difficult to read, which won’t be a problem for an...
Deployant
Rare and special Lange watches in the “Exceptional Masterpieces” exhibition
Lange exhibition of 30 rare and special watches to be shown in the "Exceptional Masterpieces" Exhibition in the Singapore National Gallery.
Revolution
Available in the shop: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas, an integrated contender
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas is fast becoming one of the favorites for the ideal integrated steel sports watch, and it’s easy to see why. We explore the history of this iconic design, from the historic reference 222 all the way to this incredible Overseas 4500V with a beautiful blue dial.
SJX Watches
Omega Debuts the Facelifted Globemaster Annual Calendar
Launched in 2016, Globemaster Annual Calendar has remained under-appreciated, despite the distinctive design that combines several elements from historical Omega watches – most notably the “pie pan” dial of the Constellation – and perhaps more importantly, a practical complication. Originally available in the same muted colours as the base-model Globemaster, the Annual Calendar has been refreshed with dials in striking colours and in different metals, including a striking burgundy and of course an olive green. The burgundy dial in a two-tone case Initial thoughts The Globemaster Annual Calendar is an interesting proposition. The complication is unusual – it’s the only annual calendar offered by Omega – while the design is vintage-inspired but quirky. But the Annual Calendar has been overlooked perhaps because of the brand’s wide-ranging catalogue that is packed with more famous models like the Speedmasters, and also because of its old-school case design and restrained colours. So the new trio is certainly a good addition to the line, especially since each of the new colours are striking and relatively unusual. The olive-green version immediately stands out, not only because it’s the year’s most fashionable colour, but also the fact that the shade is perfect – it’s restrained but rich. And it’s in steel, which makes it the most affordable of the variants. Most interesting in terms of aesthetics is the two-tone version. The pairing of a burgundy dia...
Video
The TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E4 delivers a leaner and meaner smartwatch
Hodinkee
Happenings: Stéphane Belmont To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Patrimony Director will discuss the history of the Reverso.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Bremont Supermarine Descent II is a GMT diver with supermodel looks
Every once in a while, a watch just grabs me right in the feels. And oh boy, does this watch get me. I’ve been a Bremont fan for some time, especially of the original Supermarine 500, an elegant yet bomb-proof diver, executed at an extremely high level of craftsmanship. If Bremont were looking for a … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bremont Supermarine Descent II is a GMT diver with supermodel looks appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
NORQAIN: The Heart of An Adventurer
NORQAIN introduces three new GMT models to the Adventure family in a sub-collection named NEVEREST that benefits the Butterfly Help Project aimed at helping the children of Sherpas lost in the Himalayan mountains receive access to education
Time+Tide
DOXA dives back into their 80s catalogue with the updated 600T collection
Imagine you’re heading out for a swim or a surf… the sun’s beating down and you have the day to yourself. You glance down to grab the time off your trusty (and waterproof) brightly-coloured watch… When we discuss a brand like DOXA, it’s those fun colours and designs that bring to mind scenes like that. … ContinuedThe post DOXA dives back into their 80s catalogue with the updated 600T collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The Academy Museum of Motion Pictures Opens in L.A.
Rolex watches have long been prominent in cinema, particularly of the American variety, never as a result of a product placements but instead a choice of the performer or director. Neither has the watchmaker recruited actors or actresses as ambassadors – it largely concentrates on sportspeople, musicians, environmentalist, and directors like James Cameron and Martin Scorsese – though it is the official sponsor of the Oscars. But now the watchmaker’s support of the film industry takes tangible form with the newly-opened Academy Museum of Motion Pictures in Los Angeles, which was constructed by the same organisation that’s responsible for the Oscars. Rolex is a “Founding Supporter” of the museum, resulting in the Rolex Gallery on the building’s third level. According to Rolex, the space is dedicated to the “many aspects of moviemaking – technology, artists, history and social impact” and includes the “Paul Newman Paul Newman”, the Rolex Daytona ref. 6239 owned by the late American actor that sold for a record US$17.52 million in 2017. But in typical Rolex fashion – which means discretion to the point of secrecy – the watchmaker is nowhere to be found on the list of “Founding Supporters” of the museum. But there is a single “Anonymous” donor in the category of US$10-20 million donations, alongside Dalian Wanda Group, Steven Spielberg, and The Walt Disney Company. The art of cinema Located in Los Angeles, the Academy Museum is the first o...
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