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All Tudor Black Bay References Tudor

Every Tudor Black Bay: 79220R/B/N, 79230, 79030 BB58, 79830RB Pro, 7939 GMT METAS, S&G, Bronze, Chrono.

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Black Bay Tudor

The Tudor heritage diver that revived the brand and references every vintage Submariner.

The Fratello x Jacques Bianchi “Night Diver” Has Arrived, Complete with a Fully Lumed Dial Worn & Wound
Omega due Jun 6, 2024

The Fratello x Jacques Bianchi “Night Diver” Has Arrived, Complete with a Fully Lumed Dial

Jacques Bianchi Marseille has teamed up with Fratello Watches to create a new iteration of their already popular JB200 PoulPro. The new variant released today is now dubbed the JB200 PoulPro “Night Diver”, due to its new nocturnal layout consisting of a black PVD case and a fully lumed dial, both features being a first for Jacques Bianchi.  Fratello is known for creating high quality and entertaining watch enthusiast content, and more specifically their infatuation with the Speedmaster that started with their founders creation of the #speedytuesday hashtag. Fratello has even collaborated with Omega due to the hashtag’s marketing success, and they’ve since branched out to create watch collaborations with many other watch brands just like this new Jacques Bianchi release. The JB200 diver was only just reissued in 2021, and it garnered some outstanding success due to demand from vintage watch lovers who were quite fond of the original from the early 1980s. The new “Night Diver” variant seen here is similar in many ways to the reissue, maintaining the 42mm case and 13.3mm thickness, as well as a lug to lug of 47mm.  The JB200 is relatively well proportioned on the wrist, although it does have a slightly heftier appearance when comparing to the benchmark Rolex Submariner 124060 with a 12mm thickness. Much of the fit disadvantage is offset by the rest of the specs, especially the lug to lug measurement which can at times be more important than the actual case size....

This Year’s Oris Hölstein Edition is Here Worn & Wound
Oris Hölstein Edition Jun 4, 2024

This Year’s Oris Hölstein Edition is Here

This year, Oris is celebrating its 120th anniversary with the release of a special edition timepiece, the Hölstein Edition 2024. Founded in the small village of Hölstein in 1904, Oris has built a legacy of creating high-quality mechanical watches with a devoted fan base that has been steadily growing over the last few years. This new release, a black-on-black Divers Sixty-Five, is an anniversary present Oris is giving itself, showing the subtlety and sophistication  of the Swiss brand. The Hölstein Edition 2024 stands out with its distinctive design, marking the first time Oris has ventured into a full black-on-black aesthetic. The watch features a 40mm stainless steel case, bezel, and crown, all plated in black DLC. The hands, hour markers, dial text, date wheel, and lume are also rendered in black, complementing the overall monochromatic theme. The modern design is completed with a black rubber strap and a black-DLC-plated buckle. In terms of functionality and specifications, the Hölstein Edition 2024 is powered by the Oris Calibre 400. This in-house automatic movement boasts a five-day power reserve and superior anti-magnetic properties, ensuring reliable performance. As with previous Hölstein Edition releases, the caseback features an image of the Oris Bear, this time clad in swim trunks. The watch is water-resistant up to 10 bar (100 meters), making it suitable for various aquatic activities. Limited to just 250 pieces on a first-come-first-serve basis, the Höl...

The Oris Hölstein Edition 2024: An All-Blacked-Out Divers Sixty-Five Fratello
Casio n - Oris’s 120th Jun 1, 2024

The Oris Hölstein Edition 2024: An All-Blacked-Out Divers Sixty-Five

Oris Hölstein Editions are an annual celebration for the independent Swiss watch brand. This year marks a rather special occasion - Oris’s 120th anniversary. To celebrate this impressive birthday, the house is releasing a special Divers Sixty-Five, fully dipped in black paint. Okay, technically speaking, it’s not really black paint. But we do get a […] Visit The Oris Hölstein Edition 2024: An All-Blacked-Out Divers Sixty-Five to read the full article.

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Military-Inspired Diver OPS SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Introduces May 27, 2024

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Military-Inspired Diver OPS

Ulysse Nardin just dropped the Diver Net OPS and Diver X Skeleton OPS, a pair of military-inspired sports watches made from sustainable materials. Dressed in olive drab and black, the two watches utilise recycled steel and carbon composites, and even nylon straps made from fishing nets. Though the emphasis on sustainability and styling are clearly modern, the basis of the watches is historical: the design is modelled on the shipborne marine chronometers Ulysse Nardin was once famous for. The Diver X Skeleton OPS with its open dial Initial Thoughts Ulysse Nardin opted for more restrained aesthetics for the new Diver Duo, instead of the brighter colours found on past models. The Diver Net OPS in particular has a low-key, functional look. Notably, the trademark “X” motif on its dial – which you either love or hate – is not particularly obvious. I find the “X” too bold on some other designs, but here it works better with the military-esque look of the dial. However, both the materials and movements found inside the two watches reflect the brand’s focus on advanced, industrial watchmaking. The Diver Net OPS, for example, is an entry-level model but still equipped with an in-house movement with a silicon hairspring and free-sprung balance, along with a diamond-coated escapement. The Diver Net OPS And the use of recycled materials is also interesting. The carbon composite parts of the case are offcuts from the aircraft manufacturing, which according to the brand red...

Introducing – The New HYT Conical Tourbillon Panda Monochrome
HYT May 21, 2024

Introducing – The New HYT Conical Tourbillon Panda

Following the release of the Conical Tourbillon in black with green dial-side animation and the vibrant, multi-coloured Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires, the brand continues its innovative exploration of fluid time presentation and bold colour combinations. Indie watchmaker HYT‘s latest creation is the Conical Tourbillon Panda, a cultured black-and-white version of this complex watch, limited to […]

Hands On: Rolex GMT-Master II Oystersteel Ref. 126710GRNR SJX Watches
Rolex GMT-Master II Oystersteel Ref May 17, 2024

Hands On: Rolex GMT-Master II Oystersteel Ref. 126710GRNR

Just released at Watches & Wonders 2024, the Rolex GMT-Master II in steel with a grey and black bezel (ref. 126710GRNR) is the newest addition to the famous line of dual time zone watches. More restrained in terms of colour, the new GMT-Master sports a 24-hour bezel with a grey-and-black Cerachrom insert. It’s still immediately recognisable, but a bit more discreet than its siblings in the collection, especially the famous “Pepsi” that is perhaps too recognisable.  Like several other Rolex sports models, the 126710GRNR sports green accents on the dial and GMT hand. And the 126710GRNR is available on either a Jubilee or Oyster bracelet. Initial thoughts The GMT-Master II is a almost perfect, with little that needs revision. While some expected a “Coke” GMT this year, the 126710GRNR is a solid proposition for anyone who wants a GMT-Master dressed more subtly. The bi-colour bezel is functional without being too loud unlike the better-known GMT-Master “Pepsi”. Flashy or recognisable watches sometimes attract unwanted attention, so dialling back the bezel colours is smart. In fact, the 126710GRNR may as well be more appealing than the discontinued 116710LN with its all-black bezel. Although I prefer the all-black bezel of the 116710LN, the grey and black bezel of the 126710GRNR is more functional as it separates day and night. The Rolex GMT-Master II “Pepsi” 126710BLRO The green accents are a nice touch and also logical since green is the Rolex corporate c...

Hands-On With The New Olive-Green Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton Fratello
Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Apr 26, 2024

Hands-On With The New Olive-Green Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton

I have a special spot in my heart for Rado. It’s the only watch brand I’ve ever heard my mother talk about. She was a big fan of the black ceramic Diastar watches that Rado put out in the 1980s and ’90s. While that was a defining era for the brand, that’s not where it […] Visit Hands-On With The New Olive-Green Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton to read the full article.

First Look – Three New Editions of the Sporty Bulgari Aluminium Monochrome
Bulgari Aluminium Apr 26, 2024

First Look – Three New Editions of the Sporty Bulgari Aluminium

The launch of the Bulgari Aluminio in 1998 flew in the face of conventional watchmaking with its unusual combination of black rubber and lightweight aluminium. With its graphic solid black and off-white livery, the Aluminio soared in popularity as an attractive, entry-level sports watch with a slick Italian soul. Marking its much-anticipated comeback in 2020, […]

An Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope for the Paris 2024 Olympics SJX Watches
Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope Apr 17, 2024

An Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope for the Paris 2024 Olympics

Omega just released a new take on its Speedmaster with a vintage-inspired dial for the upcoming Paris 2024 Olympics that begins 100 days from now. Available in Moonshine Gold or stainless steel, the Speedmaster Chronoscope “Paris Olympics 2024” features a silver dial with black registers, along with solid gold numerals and gold-plated hands. Initial thoughts Omega is known for the many commemorative timepieces to mark the Olympics over the years, with the most recent one being Seamaster Diver 300m Paris Olympics Edition. A variety of Omega models have received the Olympics treatment, so the appeal really depends on the specific model, rather than the commemorative aspect. The new Chronoscope certainly looks good, with the gold accents on the dial giving it a more vintage feel, particularly on the steel model. That version brings to mind mid-20th century chronographs that combine gilt hands and markers with contrasting steel cases. With only the dial being unique to this edition, it remains chunky at 43 mm. Although large on paper, it is not all that large in reality, due to the short lugs of the Speedmaster case. I would imagine it to wear reasonably well on an averaged-sized wrist, given that the 42 mm Speedmaster Moonwatch wears well across most wrist sizes. The new Chronoscope ranges from US$9,500 to US$51,400, depending on the metal and strap configuration. Although the value proposition is decent for the steel model, the Moonshine gold version is harder to justif...

Bell & Ross Introduces Ceramic to the BR 05 Collection Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Introduces Ceramic Apr 15, 2024

Bell & Ross Introduces Ceramic to the BR 05 Collection

For Watches & Wonders 2024, Bell & Ross is bringing ceramic somewhere it’s never gone before - the BR 05 collection of integrated bracelet sports watches - with a trio of black ceramic options with matching black ceramic bracelets. When Bell & Ross introduced the BR 05 five years ago, it seemed like a somewhat esoteric, slightly fringe addition to the brand’s offerings. I remember feeling like it was a watch made more to check a box than anything else. But in the last half-decade, the BR 05 has, increasingly and slowly, become a major pillar of the Bell & Ross catalog and earned fans left and right. These additions also feel a little like checking a box - but in the best way. Ceramic has long been a core material for Bell & Ross, with many of its iconic and recognizable square-cased cockpit instruments, like the BR 03-94 Multimeter, making use of the material. So it was only a matter of time before we saw the distinctive material make its way to the BR 05. The new BR 05 ceramic trio are, mostly, the same watches we’ve seen over the last few years, but there are some small, but significant, differences between the ceramic and steel versions (besides the material). The BR 05 Black Ceramic models are 1mm wider than their steel counterparts, measuring in at 41mm. The BR 05 Black Ceramic is still thin, measuring in at 11.2mm, but again, it is a slight increase when compared to the steel option (which is a svelte 10.5mm). Per Bell & Ross, these changes in dimension w...

Rolex Debuts the Perpetual 1908 in Platinum SJX Watches
Rolex Debuts Apr 10, 2024

Rolex Debuts the Perpetual 1908 in Platinum

Last year, Rolex made waves with its new dress watch collection, the Perpetual 1908. Initially comprising four references in yellow and white gold with silver and black dials, the 1908 now gains a new addition: the Perpetual 1908 (ref. 52506) in platinum. Continuing with the Rolex tradition of a dial colour unique to platinum models, the new 1908 features an ice blue dial finished with rice-grain guilloché that is traditionally applied with a rose engine. Initial thoughts The release of the 1908 was unexpected and marked a departure from the brand’s focus on sports watches. The models launched last year, however, were conservatively styled. The introduction of a guilloché dial, a first for the range, livens up the aesthetics of the 1908 while still retaining the overall design. The traditional engine-turning lends a three-dimensional effect to the dial, enhancing its aesthetic appeal. Additionally, it adds an artisanal touch to the model. The platinum ref. 52506 is priced at US$30,900, a sizeable increase over its yellow and white gold counterparts, but comparable to the pricing for other Rolex models, particularly with the addition of the guilloche dial. The Perpetual 1908 introduced last year in white gold (left) and yellow gold (right) “Rice-grain” guilloché The latest release showcases a striking ice blue dial adorned with an intricate guilloché “rice-grain” motif, achieved through the engraving technique of guillochage, whereby an engraver employs an eng...

Montblanc Expands the Iced Sea Automatic Collection with Two New References Worn & Wound
Montblanc Expands Apr 10, 2024

Montblanc Expands the Iced Sea Automatic Collection with Two New References

The Montblanc Iced Sea Automatic Date collection, already notable for its unique glacial-inspired aesthetics, welcomes two new additions to its line-up: Bronze and Burgundy. Both models expand upon the Iced Sea collection to bring a moodier, more sophisticated look. The first of these, Bronze, marries a black glacier pattern dial with a bronze-tone case, a nod to the golden hues of dusk over frosty terrains. This reference stands out with its use of cupro aluminum for the case – a unique alloy that surpasses traditional bronze in resistance to wear and corrosion, promising durability while aging gracefully into a charming patina. It also introduces a bi-color unidirectional bezel, a new logo reflecting Montblanc’s heritage, and a titanium caseback adorned with a scuba diver motif, all complemented by a versatile black rubber strap with a brown accent. The Burgundy model, on the other hand, captures the deep reds of evening light on ice, paired with a black ceramic bezel. It comes with an interchangeable stainless-steel bracelet, ensuring a perfect fit for the wearer. Both models exhibit the meticulous craftsmanship Montblanc is known for, utilizing a special gratté-boisé technique for the dials to create an impression of depth and luminosity, while the casebacks feature detailed 3D engravings achieved through precise laser work. Each model’s case comes in at 41mm, accompanied by a sapphire crystal and equipped with an MB 24.17/SW200 automatic movement that promises...

Nothing stealth wealth about the new platinum Rolex Perpetual 1908 Time+Tide
Rolex Perpetual 1908 Rolex’s dressiest Apr 9, 2024

Nothing stealth wealth about the new platinum Rolex Perpetual 1908

Rolex’s dressiest piece gets the most luscious makeover possible. The guilloché of the dial is also a rare sight in a Rolex, matching really well with the coined bezel. It joins the line-up of yellow and Everose gold variants, with either a black or brown leather strap fitted with a case-matching platinum buckle. Fans of … ContinuedThe post Nothing stealth wealth about the new platinum Rolex Perpetual 1908 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Lange Marks the Datograph’s 25th Anniversary in White Gold and Blue SJX Watches
Casio n Though left unstated Apr 9, 2024

Lange Marks the Datograph’s 25th Anniversary in White Gold and Blue

A. Lange & Söhne is marking 25 years of its landmark chronograph of 1999 with the Datograph Up/Down “25th Anniversary”, a limited edition that’s a subtle but significant variation of the familiar model. The anniversary Datograph sports a dark blue dial matched with a white gold case that contains the much loved L951.6 movement. Limited to 125 pieces, the new model joins the regular production versions in platinum and pink gold (both with black dials) that remain in the catalogue. And it’s the more affordable of the anniversary editions, with the flagship being the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen”. Initial thoughts While the anniversary Datograph doesn’t seem like much on the face of it, the colour and material is fairly unique for the model. The Datograph has only ever been offered in platinum, pink or yellow gold, and never before with a blue dial (except on one occasion). Though left unstated in the official announcement, the blue dial is clearly a reference to a unique example of the first-generation Datograph that had a blue dial, something that fans of the brand will appreciate. Moreover, the Datograph is rarely iterated as a limited edition. This is only the third Datograph limited edition (following the Datograph Lumen of 2019), leaving aside gem-set models. Consequently, there’s a lot to like about this, with a big caveat. As comparably-priced alternative to the regular production models, this is a compelling proposition. However, ...

First Look – Titanium and Stone Dials, Meet The New Versions of the Nivada F77 Automatic Monochrome
Nivada Grenchen delighted enthusiasts Apr 7, 2024

First Look – Titanium and Stone Dials, Meet The New Versions of the Nivada F77 Automatic

In 2023, Nivada Grenchen delighted enthusiasts with a faithful recreation of its original F77, initially introduced in 1977 to rival popular sports watches of the era, with a steel construction with an integrated bracelet. The relaunched F77 series brought back with the same intent decades later, featured versions sporting blue and black dials adorned with […]

Another MoonSwatch Mission To The Moonphase – Snoopy Goes New Moon Fratello
Apr 5, 2024

Another MoonSwatch Mission To The Moonphase – Snoopy Goes New Moon

If you looked closely at the teaser on February 19th, you saw Snoopy holding a cake with two candles - a white one and a black one. A few of you guessed it right in the comments of the introduction of the white MoonSwatch Snoopy. The black edition was still a surprise to others until […] Visit Another MoonSwatch Mission To The Moonphase – Snoopy Goes New Moon to read the full article.

Sternglas Adds The Colorful New Lumatik To Its Expanding Collection Fratello
Mar 26, 2024

Sternglas Adds The Colorful New Lumatik To Its Expanding Collection

I have enjoyed reviewing several Sternglas releases over the past couple of years. Mostly, they were stylish Bauhaus-inspired timepieces in black and white, which were good examples of the popular minimalist design philosophy. However, the Hamburg-based brand has not hesitated to add more colorful timepieces to its collection. The latest example is the new Sternglas […] Visit Sternglas Adds The Colorful New Lumatik To Its Expanding Collection to read the full article.

Introducing: The MB&F; Legacy Machine FlyingT Onyx Edition Fratello
MB&F; Mar 26, 2024

Introducing: The MB&F; Legacy Machine FlyingT Onyx Edition

A new MB&F; release is always reason enough to sit up straight and pay attention. I am all eyes and ears, especially if it combines yellow gold with black onyx. Yes, Fratelli, I am easy to please. All jokes aside, we all know that MB&F; is not just about materials and colors. Every watch has […] Visit Introducing: The MB&F; Legacy Machine FlyingT Onyx Edition to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Racing-Inspired Depancel Allure Automatic Chronograph Fratello
Mar 25, 2024

Hands-On With The Racing-Inspired Depancel Allure Automatic Chronograph

In racing, the combination of orange with black or blue is famous. While it is not unique to the racing world, many people immediately associate the two. Sure, we have seen many more colors in the past, but to me, orange and blue ooze racing class. The Depancel Allure Automatic Chronograph celebrates its racing style […] Visit Hands-On With The Racing-Inspired Depancel Allure Automatic Chronograph to read the full article.

Louis Erard Introduces the Affordable Tourbillon Alain Silberstein SJX Watches
Louis Erard Introduces Mar 21, 2024

Louis Erard Introduces the Affordable Tourbillon Alain Silberstein

Louis Erard returns to its flagship model, the Le Régulateur Tourbillon x Alain Silberstein, now in black. The tourbillon builds on the previous collaborations with the French designer but ups the ante on price and complexity. Louis Erard first tapped Alain Silberstein, known for his instantly recognisable Bauhaus-inspired aesthetic, in 2019 for a successful collaboration that led to a second collection in 2021. This new 78-piece limited edition is the first time Le Régulateur Tourbillon is presented in Silberstein’s typical Bauhaus colours. The model initially debuted last year as part of a three-piece set in khaki green, followed by a 10-piece limited edition made for UAE-based retailer Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons. Initial thoughts Louis Erard has created an interesting niche for itself in the world of independent watchmaking with its ongoing string of well-priced collaborations with established independent watchmakers like Konstantin Chaykin and Vianney Halter. And while the brand is arguably at its best when it challenges conventional expectations of watch design, such as its collaborations with designers from outside the industry like Oliver Mosset and atelier oï, the designs of Alain Silberstein have proven timeless in their own quirky way. Le Régulateur Tourbillon features a 40 mm titanium case that is also surprisingly slim at just 11.8 mm. That said, it’s likely to wear larger due to the hinged strap loops that extend beyond the case. With a black nylon strap and...

Hot Take: The Aquastar Model 60 Greenwich Edition Fratello
Mar 20, 2024

Hot Take: The Aquastar Model 60 Greenwich Edition

Last year, Aquastar released a modern interpretation of one of its earliest watches, the Model 60. The no-nonsense black dial paired with a utile skin-diver case made it an instant hit. Now a new dial color joins the fray. The limited-production Greenwich Edition has a dark green dial that works well with the design. It […] Visit Hot Take: The Aquastar Model 60 Greenwich Edition to read the full article.