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SJX Watches

Chanel s Première Transformed Into Jul 15, 2024

Chanel’s Première Transformed Into a Necklace Watch with Headphones

Having launched the Première Édition Originale two years ago, a bestseller modelled on the No. 5 perfume bottle, Chanel has now extended the concept, literally, with the Première Sound Watch. It’s a necklace watch, or a montre sautoir, with a pair of wired earphones, or more specifically in-ear monitors (IEMs), that loop through the links of the chain. Initial thoughts Chanel is now a proper watchmaker with an expansive manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds (where the Monsieur is produced) and a stake in movement maker Kenissi, but it’s primarily a luxury fashion house that derives majority of its revenue from cosmetics and fashion. The Première Sound is very much a fashion watch – and an expensive one at that – but a logical creation that is both useful and instantly recognisable as Chanel. As an aside, the fact that the Première necklace watch is delivered with a pair of wired earphones, instead of wireless earbuds, is low tech but practical since it does away with flaky rechargeable batteries, which will inevitably extend its useful life. Importantly, the earphone cable loops into the necklace and is removable, meaning the Première Sound can revert to just being a necklace watch. Jennie of Korean girl group Blackpink with the Premiere Sound A bottle stopper watch Introduced in 1987, the Première is Chanel’s longest-lived bestseller. Its case is modelled on the cap of the No. 5 perfume bottle, itself inspired by the shape of the Place Vendôme, the square in ...

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Fratello

Jul 12, 2024

Hands-On With The Beaufort Seatrekker - A Big-Hearted Dual-Crown Diver From New Zealand

When I feel my appetite for retro filling up, something catches my eye in a typical fashion. A good dégradé dial does that to me, and green is supposedly the color of 2024, right? Combining this with a busier-than-usual Super Compressor-style dial sounds like too much, but the Beaufort Seatrekker might prove me wrong. I’ll […] Visit Hands-On With The Beaufort Seatrekker - A Big-Hearted Dual-Crown Diver From New Zealand to read the full article.

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Worn & Wound

Vacheron Constantin e “Cornes de Vache” Jul 12, 2024

Hands-On: the Haim Viajero Worldtimer

I’ll be honest, I started off my experience with the new Viajero coming from a pretty far off and distant place. No, not some cool and remote corner of the world, but as a person who was largely unfamiliar with both Haim as a brand and also the concept of a worldtimer. While I have a GMT in my personal collection, the idea of tracking several time zones via a worldtimer never seemed like something on my radar. Am I classy enough for this? Is a worldtimer even worth the typically large price tag that they command? I remember seeing an Omega worldtimer that was pretty cool…oh right, that’s pushing $10k and not exactly at the top of my spend-ten-thousand-dollars-on-a-watch list.  When the Haim Viajero came across my desk, the first thing I thought was how interesting it is to get a worldtimer complication for a fair amount under a thousand bucks, and that’s exactly what the watch accomplishes. Pack your carryon and prepare for a few layovers, we’re going worldtiming. Case A 38.5mm diameter is a pretty nice spot to be if you’re a watch case. It often hits that goldilocks “just right” feeling, especially on my 6.75” wrist. At 45.5mm lug-to-lug and12mm tall, the watch is firmly in mid-sized territory. The Viajero is largely circular from the top down, featuring lugs that borrow heavily from the celebrated Vacheron Constantine “Cornes de Vache”. The result is nice and clean, and it looks as though the sharp, yet curved lugs are holding up the case in an ele...

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SJX Watches

Cartier Mr Chastaingt took Jul 11, 2024

Interview: Arnaud Chastaingt and His Vision for Chanel’s Watches

Now having been director of Chanel’s watch creation studio for almost a dozen years, Arnaud Chastaingt has shaped the brand’s line-up of timepieces and time-telling objects, imbuing them with a distinctive yet versatile style that is still recognisably Chanel. After a decade at Cartier, Mr Chastaingt took the helm of the design studio as Chanel was expanding and refining its watch division. Besides the scaling up of its longtime manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, where top-of-the-line movements like Calibre 1 are produced, Chanel also invested in Kenissi, the movement maker majority owned by Tudor. The brand’s investments in watchmaking have paid off, with its 2024 collection including the J12 Couture Workshop wristwatch powered by the in-house Calibre 6 that incorporates an automaton of Coco Chanel wielding a pair of scissors. While the engineering and mechanics are all located in Switzerland, Mr Chastaingt mandates the aesthetics from the brand’s headquarters in Paris, even designing the bridges of the in-house movements. He spoke to us about design, details, and why a brand like Chanel makes complicated watches for men. The interview was edited for clarity and length. A tiny ring watch modelled on a pin cushion set with pearls and diamonds. Image – Chanel SJX: I’ve seen the new collection and I’m impressed by the variety and design. The first question is, I see a comic-inspired theme with the character watches and the automaton, but these are serious mechan...

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Fratello

TAG Heuer Breitling Cartier Jul 10, 2024

Pre-Owned Spotlight: Five Small But Tough Neo-Vintage Dive Watches - Featuring TAG Heuer, Breitling, Cartier, And More

We are still in the midst of the biggest small-sized revival of the decade, so surely all the bargains have already been snapped up? With patience, you’ll find hidden gems from the late ’90s to the end of the ’00s. But with many of these having been big-watch years, finding small but tough neo-vintage dive […] Visit Pre-Owned Spotlight: Five Small But Tough Neo-Vintage Dive Watches - Featuring TAG Heuer, Breitling, Cartier, And More to read the full article.

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Monochrome

Frederique Constant Jul 8, 2024

Introducing – The New Ace Jewelers x Nivada Grenchen F77 Amsterdam

Ace Jewelers, the family-owned Dutch jewellery and watch retailer, has been a prominent name in the industry for almost half a century. The company’s reputation has made limited-edition collaborations with watch brands possible, such as special Amsterdam editions of Ace together with Frederique Constant and Nomos; there was also an Amsterdam-themed “Ace” watch with Cedric […]

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SJX Watches

Urban Jürgensen Jul 8, 2024

Insight: Urban Jürgensen and the Royal Danish Academy of Sciences and Letters

An academic, horologist, and innovator, Urban Jürgensen is today best known for giving his name for the watch brand that’s now run by independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen and his daughter, Venla. But Jürgensen was the most important watchmaker in Denmark in the early 19th century. He also developed a longstanding relationship with the most important Danish scientific society of the last three centuries, the Royal Danish Academy of Sciences and Letters (RDASL). This  article explores the relationship that shaped his work on clocks and watches. A need for precision Being a horologist in Denmark at the turn of the 19th century was not necessarily a very noble job. A handful were highly regarded workmen, but none were on par with scientists on the social ladder. Astronomers were buying English precision clocks for observatories and sailors still navigated by the movement of celestial bodies[1]. But times were changing, chronometers were already known to the king and government of Denmark, and the benefit of precision timekeepers for various types of expeditions was already becoming known around Europe. Mudge & Dutton astronomical regulator clock. Previously in the Observatory of Copenhagen, now located in the offices of the Royal Danish Academy of Sciences and Letters. Image – The Royal Danish Academy of Sciences and Letters/A.B.L. As international conflicts were at the time were a limiting factor in importing chronometers from foreign countries, attempts were made...

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Monochrome

Citizen Jul 5, 2024

In-Depth – The Angelus Instrument de Vitesse and the Story of its Monopusher Movement

For watch enthusiasts like me and the rest of the team of MONO, the name Angelus is synonymous with splendid vintage chronographs. Yet, the modern side of the brand, which is under the umbrella of La Joux-Perret (and thus Citizen), was until recently fairly different. The resurrection of the brand in 2015, which was done […]

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Worn & Wound

Monta Jul 5, 2024

Monta Adds a GMT Complication to the Noble Collection with the New Noble Voyager

Monta has announced an upgrade to their popular Noble collection today with the Noble Voyager. This new watch expands on the Noble concept, which is an old-fashioned luxury sport watch with distinct refined details that place just a click outside the “tool watch” category, by adding a GMT complication. This, of course, makes complete sense for a sports watch that was conceived to go anywhere. Now, when you go there (or, anywhere) you’ll be fully able to monitor an additional time zone.  The execution here is quite subtle, and unless you were really searching for it, it would be easy to miss the GMT complication entirely. Monta has chosen to make the 24 hour hand a skeletonized clone of the local hour hand rather than a more traditional long hand with a broad arrow tip, or something of that nature. This helps to keep the Noble Voyager’s dial clean so that the drama of the lightly textured dégradé dials (in green or blue) remain intact. This was always my favorite design element of the original Noble, and I’m glad to see that Monta has held this over from the time and date versions of the watch. Besides the additional hand and a 24 hour scale at the dial’s perimeter, this is still very easily recognized as a Noble.  The Noble Voyager’s case has nearly the same dimensions as the time and date model, measuring 38.5mm in diameter and 47mm lug to lug. The difference comes in the case height measurement, which is 10.7mm on the Noble Voyager compared to 9.7mm on ...

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Hamilton Citizen Jul 5, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Affordable Watches In Movies - Featuring Seiko, Hamilton, Citizen, And More

Another Friday, another Top 5! This week, we’re looking at some of the best watches featured in famous movies. But we’ll stick to the affordable options rather than drumming up some more expensive ones. Maybe we will get to those in a different article. For now, let’s focus on affordable watches with great stories of […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Affordable Watches In Movies - Featuring Seiko, Hamilton, Citizen, And More to read the full article.

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Fratello

Jul 5, 2024

Hands-On With The New Brellum Pandial Marina Bicompax Titanium Chronometer

Today’s Brellum Pandial Marina Bicompax Titanium Chronometer visited us at Fratello HQ, and we were left impressed by the brand’s latest release. Brellum focuses on numbered, low-production editions with a high value-to-price ratio. This piece may be the most compelling yet. It’s hard not to be cynical when looking at the prices of new watches. […] Visit Hands-On With The New Brellum Pandial Marina Bicompax Titanium Chronometer to read the full article.

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Zenith Defy Skyline Gets Jul 4, 2024

The Zenith Defy Skyline Gets the White Ceramic, Skeleton Dial Treatment

I’ll be upfront here: I love the Defy. All the Defys. I’ve said many times to many people that the Defy is probably my favorite sports watch line of all time. It’s certainly my favorite corner of the Zenith catalog, and vintage Defy references are some of the coolest you can own, and somehow still represent a great value compared to comparable sports watches from other brands. To me, these watches have historically been exactly the right combination of avant-garde design and sports watch functionality. A Defy, unlike a Submariner, for example, can be both an art piece and an everyday wearer. They are also consistently interesting from a materials perspective, particularly when they get into colored ceramic, as they have with the newest Defy introduced today, a successor of sorts to one of my favorite watches from last year.  The Defy Skyline White Ceramic Skeleton is in some ways a predictable, natural evolution of the current generation Defy. It takes the ceramic case and bracelet we saw in last year’s black model, turns them white, and gives us the skeleton dial treatment that debuted early last year. It’s a similar trajectory to the Defy Classic releases from several years back, which started in titanium, with colorful skeletonized ceramic versions to follow.  This new reference is a little different though for how it plays with contrast. Against the stark white of the case and bracelet, we get a skeletonized blue dial and a movement in a matching shade. Tha...

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Fratello

Baltic MR Roulette - Using Jul 4, 2024

Introducing: The Baltic MR Roulette - Using Textures To Create A Perception Of Depth

Baltic, the uncrowned king of affordable vintage-inspired watches, has launched a new version of its dressy MR - the MR Roulette. It has the same dial layout as the previous version, which means the off-center sub-dial is still there. Of course, it’s also still powered by a very elegant-looking micro-rotor movement on which the collection’s […] Visit Introducing: The Baltic MR Roulette - Using Textures To Create A Perception Of Depth to read the full article.

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Fratello

Jul 4, 2024

#TBT Watching The UEFA Euro 2024 With The Gallet Basketball & Football Timer

There will hardly be a better time to feature my Gallet Basketball & Football Timer than now, just a day before the Euro 2024 quarterfinals begin. However funny it may sound, imagine me sitting on the couch and starting my timer the moment the next match starts. That’ll be me tomorrow! Collecting pocket watches is […] Visit #TBT Watching The UEFA Euro 2024 With The Gallet Basketball & Football Timer to read the full article.

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Monochrome

Mido Jul 4, 2024

First Look – The New, Compact and Slim Mido Ocean Star 39

With its Ocean Star collection, Swatch Group-owned brand Mido has long demonstrated its ability to combine cool designs, great quality, proper diving credentials and fair prices. Take a look at the Ocean Star 600 Chronometer or the Decompression Timer 1961, you’ll see what I mean… It should be remembered that the Ocean Star collection is […]

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Worn & Wound

Christopher Ward Citizen Fortis G-Shock Jul 3, 2024

No Spoilers! Preview the Watches of Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2024

After two fantastic Windup Watch Fairs in New York and San Francisco, it is almost time to return to Chicago! Whether you’re attending the third annual Windup Watch Fair in Chicago or you’ll be observing from afar (@wornandwound on Instagram), the event is free and open to the public thanks in large part to our lead sponsors: Christopher Ward, Citizen, Fortis, G-Shock, and Oris. These brands continue to walk the walk around building a strong enthusiast community. They also make great watches.  Venue West – 221 N Paulina St, Chicago, IL 60612 Friday, July 12: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, July 13: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, July 14: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to the public Head to the Product Showcase on the Windup Watch Fair site to see and shop even more of the great watches that will be on display this year in Chicago. With the Fair a little over a week away, we have another fantastic showcase of brands from around the globe and local to Chicago. Below, check out some highlight pieces our Lead Sponsors have been focusing on this year.  Like any good preview, don’t be surprised if some of them have even more to offer when the fair arrives. Christopher Ward Christopher Ward is an Anglo-Swiss watchmaker with a simple aim: to put premium quality watches within the reach of everyone. Founded in 2004, the company prides itself on combining traditional Swiss watchmaking techniques with contemporary English design. Models like the Bel Canto, Trident, Sealander, and The Twelve are a...

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Worn & Wound

Jul 3, 2024

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Anoma A1

The age of the circular watch has ended. The mid-century divers, chronographs, and Calatravas are out. Ok, not really, but it looks like shaped, asymmetric, and sculptural watches are the next coming trend. Kicking this new era off have been a few releases ranging from the high-end and exclusive by Berneron to the mid-tier and provocative by Toledano + Chan to the relatively accessible yet exotic Anoma, whose first watch I’ve had the chance to spend some time with. On June 6th, 2024, Anoma Watches launched the A1, an asymmetrical, triangular-shaped watch with an appealing, soft look. Like a weathered pebble of polished steel, the A1 mixes a sense of mid-century watch and industrial design with a modern sensibility, preventing it from feeling like a pastiche recreation. Well-sized at around 38mm and with a vibrant blue dial with a green tint, it’s a memorable launch from a new brand. In the video below, I discuss the brand, the context of the A1’s launch, the design, and what it’s like to wear it. As this is the only shaped watch I’ve ever worn for any period, it was an interesting experience. At first, it was a bit jarring, perhaps, but its quirky charm won me over. With collectors, new and old, having more choices and easier access to watches than ever, brands need to offer something that will stand out yet not be just a novelty. With the A1, Anoma has achieved this, at least in my opinion. Priced at £1,300, or about $1,650 USD, the Anoma A1 is available for pr...

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SJX Watches

Ressence Type 5 Diver Gets Jul 3, 2024

The Ressence Type 5 Diver Gets the Full Lume Treatment

Ressence has gently tweaked its flagship model to create the Type 5 L. Already unconventional in its original form, the new Type 5 is similar in style and function to the original but with a fully luminous dial that maximises legibility in the dark. As is tradition for the brand’s higher-end offerings, the Type 5 L features an oil-filled case that enhances visibility of the dial by eliminating a common problem underwater: refraction. Initial thoughts Dive watches rarely deviate from orthodoxy, exemplified by the Rolex Submariner. But then there is Ressence, which is unorthodox across all its watches, but in a sensible and thoughtful manner. The Type 5 L underwater The Type 5 L meets the ISO 6425 standard for a dive watch, but looks nothing like a typical dive watch. Even though the planetary sub-dials take some getting used to, legibility is good once you’re familiar with the dial layout. And the addition of lume enhances visibility, making this a logical evolution of the model. As is often the case with most of the brand’s top-end offerings, the only downside is the price of CHF34,500. Granted, the Type 5 L is unique in construction and form, and also executed to a high level of quality – but it is still pricey. The entire dial of the timepiece is luminous for legibility in dim light Oil-filled dial In terms of dimensions and materials, the Type 5 L is identical to its less luminous counterpart. The case is titanium, measuring 46 mm in diameter and 15.5 mm high....

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Deployant

Ressence Type 5 Diver full Jul 2, 2024

New: Ressence Type 5 Diver full lume dial

Ressence releases the Type 5L, a new Diver in a full lume dial late last month. This novelty complements the Type 5 Night Blue and Black Black.

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Worn & Wound

Jun 28, 2024

Great Summer Deals – Including 25%Off Starts Now!

School is out, and the sun is shining. So get your summer right with our Summer Sale event. For a limited time only, we’re offering up to 25% off some of our most popular watches, clocks, accessories, straps, and EDC items. You’ll even find a few items we very rarely discount on the site. School is out, and the sun is shining. So get your summer right with our Summer Sale event. For a limited time only, we’re offering up to 25% off some of our most popular watches, clocks, accessories, straps, and EDC items. You’ll even find a few items we very rarely discount on the site. The post Great Summer Deals – Including 25%Off Starts Now! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Worn & Wound

Longines Introduces Jun 28, 2024

Longines Introduces a New Titanium Version of the Pilot Majetek

Last year’s Pilot Majetek was one of the strangest releases of the year. Longines has long been incredibly skilled at raiding their own archives – they are perhaps better at this than any other brand – so when they come up with a new vintage reissue, everyone takes notice. The Majetek felt like Longines flexing a little, going a century into the back catalog to show contemporary collectors a vision of the pilot’s watch from a much earlier time. It’s something that only Longines could, at least in a way that feels credible. The Majetek was a surprise hit, so Longines is doubling down this year with a new version of the watch, one that might feel a little more modern to some while still retaining all of the most important vintage cues.  The Pilot Majetek Pioneer Edition is a limited edition version of the old-school pilot’s watch in titanium, with a muted matte black dial that matches the tone of the case nicely. Titanium, in theory, should make this case considerably more wearable. It’s 43mm and wears every bit of that measurement, so a significantly lighter case material ought to be a very different wearing experience.  The key features of the watch remain intact. The coin-edge bezel still rotates a small arrow that can be used for rudimentary timing applications. While we think of this type of bezel as being mostly associated with dive watches, the intended functionality here was to time the duration of an entire flight. Longines was an early pioneer of th...

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SJX Watches

Hublot Unveils Jun 28, 2024

Hublot Unveils the Clean, Monochromatic Classic Fusion Essential Grey

Hublot just unveiled the third instalment of Essential Grey, a series of watches dressed in a cool monochrome. The latest addition is the Classic Fusion Essential Grey that’s available in two sizes of 42 mm and 45 mm. It’s a low-key look that sports a sun ray-brushed grey dial and titanium case. As is convention for Essential Grey, the pair are available only online. The case sports the iconic porthole-shaped bezel Initial thoughts While earlier Essential Grey models were chronographs, the new pair are simply, time-and-date watches. Despite being monochromatic, the Essential Grey chronographs looked busy. The Classic Fusion, on the other hand, is a perfect match for the monochromatic palette. The design is as clean as a Hublot can be, which complements the colour scheme well. Already a wearable watch in itself, the Classic Fusion in this restrained styling is made even more wearable. The only weakness of the watch is the price. At US$8,500, the Classic Fusion Essential Grey is amongst the most affordable Hublot models, but it costs that much despite the basic Sellita SW300 movement inside. The SW300 is a strong performer but inexpensive and usually found in correspondingly inexpensive watches. I know that Hublot is working on a workhorse in-house calibre to take the place of the SW300, but until then the price is stiff. Porthole The Classic Fusion Essential Grey is available in 42 mm and 45 mm variants, with both identical save for the case dimensions. The 42 mm versio...

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Fratello

Ming Jun 27, 2024

Introducing: The Ming 37.08 Starlight With An Arresting Aventurine Dial

The Ming 37.08 Starlight is the brand’s newest release, and it’s a natural beauty that reacts dramatically to the light. As we’ll see, this watch uses the latest case format, which fits well on wrists of various sizes. Potential buyers will also like that a bracelet is standard and that the model will be produced […] Visit Introducing: The Ming 37.08 Starlight With An Arresting Aventurine Dial to read the full article.

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Rolex Jun 25, 2024

Introducing The Pragma P1 – Perseverance: A 100% Swiss Chronometer Made With 82.7% Recycled Materials

Geneva-based Pragma is the brainchild of Christopher Wegener and Kai-Hsuan Liu. Wegener has 21 years of experience in watchmaking; he worked for Rolex and F.P.Journe, for instance. Liu is the brand’s Creative Design Director. He has a background at Hermès and a studio of his own, and his forté is fusing natural and technological elements. […] Visit Introducing The Pragma P1 – Perseverance: A 100% Swiss Chronometer Made With 82.7% Recycled Materials to read the full article.

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SJX Watches

Cartier Jun 25, 2024

Exhibition: ‘Musubi’ – 50 Years of Cartier in Japan

In 1974, Cartier opened its first boutique in Japan and now marks its 50th anniversary in the country with MUSUBI – Half-Century of Cartier in Japan and Beyond: an Everlasting Dialogue of Beauty and Art, an exhibition of jewels, watches, and objet d’art taking place at the Hyokeikan building in the Tokyo National Museum from June 12 to July 28, 2024. The theme of the event is 結び (musubi), which translates literally as “conclusion” but its constituent characters can mean “the power of the divine spirit is produced by being bound together.” Tokyo National Museum with the flag of the exhibition under its dome Taking place in the building’s two symmetrical wings, the exhibition will be presented in parallel narratives separated into two main sections: “Cartier and Japan, a Tribute to Art and Beauty” and “Fondation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain and Japanese Artists, a Never-Ending Conversation.” The exhibition’s scenography was designed by Studio Adrien Gardère to display the heritage of Hyokeikan’s architecture, while illustrating Cartier’s tribute to Japanese culture. The design is notably inspired by Tokonoma and Sukiya, traditional styles of Japanese architecture, and reflects Cartier’s spirited connection with the country, utilising Japanese industrial scaffolding techniques to stage all the artists on show. The section of the exhibition displaying “Cartier and Japan, a Tribute to Art and Beauty.” The exhibition features 120 piece...

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Worn & Wound

Jun 24, 2024

Time Through the Ages, Part 3: Clocks, Watches and Emperors – The Growing Global Trade of Watch and Clockmaking

Editor’s Note: Time Through the Ages is a four part series written by Andrew Canter, member of the British Horological Institute, Alliance of British Watch & Clock Makers, and the British Watch & Clock Makers Guild. In this third installment, Andrew focuses the growing influence of China on the west, and the importance of Chinese trade on horology through much of the 18th century. For more from Andrew, check out his work at Mr. WatchMaster.  The Chinese term Zimingzhong broadly translates to ‘bells that ring themselves’ (which came to be known in Britain as ‘Sing Songs’) and refers to antique clocks, typically made in England for export to China during the Qing Dynasty, primarily in the 17th and 18th centuries. These clocks were especially made for emperors’ Kangxi, Yongzheng and Qianlong and were known for their intricate design and mechanical sophistication. One key aspect of the emperors’ fascination with western timepieces was their accuracy. These clocks played a pivotal role in assisting the emperor and his court astronomers in timing celestial events, such as eclipses. The ability to track and predict celestial movements not only showcased the emperors’ mastery of the heavens but also served to validate their divine right to rule. Qianlong Emperor in Court Dress. © The Palace Museum Beyond celestial observations, the emperors used these timepieces to manage time within the palace. It is interesting to note that in the 1700s, China and Britain measu...

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Worn & Wound

Bulova Jun 21, 2024

eBay Finds: Two Great Vintage Midos, a Classic Seiko Chronograph, and a Bulova with Beautiful Lugs

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! A special note this week: this is the 100th edition of eBay Finds! Congratulations to Christoph on hitting the century mark, and thanks to all of you for following along with us as we scour eBay for the coolest vintage watches.  Vintage Bulova  This vintage Bulova is more than meets the eye! The smaller 31mm steel case looks unpolished, and the fancy curved lugs and scalloped bezel look fantastic and ooze style. The white dial has a deep radial groove pattern that is really nice, plus the small applied steel arrow markers match the dagger hands. But the real gem is the hi-grade Bulova 10BPAC 23 jewel automatic movement. It is adjusted for heat, cold and isochronism in three positions. This is something you would see in a Chronometre grade movement. And even though these were not submitted for that certification, they were nevertheless highly adjusted, superb movements. Great looking piece with a beautiful movement! View auction here Vintage Rado Silver Stag Here’s a beauty with loads of personality. This vintage Rado Silver Stag not only has a killer name, it has killer style as well. The square case (and integrated bracelet) has a nice brushed finish, with clipped corners and a b...

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Worn & Wound

Tudor Black Bay 54 Jun 21, 2024

Hands-On with the Delugs Integrated Rubber CTS Strap for the Tudor Black Bay 54

In case you couldn’t tell, we’re fans of Tudor in these parts. Yeah, yeah, nothing new; everyone likes a Tudor, but man, even in head-to-head combat, it’s hard to find much fault with their watches. Well, I’ll tell you a secret: I do have an issue with them. It’s not a big issue, per se, but it’s not nothing, either. Here’s the deal: when you get one, you choose which strap you want, and that’s it. Want the rubber and the bracelet? You better buy two. Ok, perhaps that’s an exaggeration, but as far as Tudor’s website goes, you can’t order the straps separately. Maybe an AD can, but who’s got time for all that? Now, hear me out; the other thing is that they make very good bracelets. If you, like me, are prone to the occasional Black Bay purchase, you will choose the bracelet over the other options. But those other options, the rubber in particular, are just so damn nice. What’s a collector to do? Well, for Tudor Black Bay 54 owners, there’s a new solution from our friends in Singapore, Delugs. Rubber straps are all well and good, but there’s just something special about one meant for your watch. One fitted to the exact shape of the lugs for that modern, integrated look. Introducing the Delugs Integrated Rubber CTS straps for various watches, including the BB54. Delugs was kind enough to send one over for some sweat-errr– road testing, so here are my thoughts. Despite the setup, I’m actually not a huge rubber strap person. I’m not a huge br...

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SJX Watches

Raketa Jun 20, 2024

Avant-Garde Art Takes to the Raketa Dial

Inspired by Russian avant-garde art of the early 20th century, Raketa’s collection of the same name reproduces the graphic, geometric style on watch dials. The Raketa Avant-Garde 0292 is starkly and characterised by bold shapes. And unlike its predecessors, the new Avant-Garde does away with hour markers, which detracts from legibility but makes it all the more striking. Initial thoughts At first glance, the Avant-Garde appears abstract but is actually entirely conventional with three hands on a central axis. While readability is mixed at best, the dial has presence. The boldly graphic dial instantly evokes the art that inspired it, though it is not a like-for-like reproduction. Of all the art-inspired Raketa watches to date, this is the most interesting. Priced at €1,625, the new Avant-Garde sits at the higher end of the range for watches of this segment; comparable watches would be those equipped with Miyota calibres. However, the Avant-Garde has the advantage of striking, original aesthetics that are coherent with the brand and its history. Most “artistic” watches in this price segment tend to have less coherent artistic sensibilities. Granted, the fact that the dial is inspired by Russian art may be a turn-off for some, but the watch in itself is an appealing one. Initial thoughts The Avant-Garde 0292 is modelled on Beat the Whites with the Red Wedge, a Bolshevik propaganda poster created during the Russian Civil War by El Lissitzky, a leading artist of the R...

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Fratello

Jun 18, 2024

Fratello On Air: Collecting Watches - Will We Ever Stop?

This week, Fratello On Air returns with an episode about collecting watches and whether we’ll ever stop. It’s a good question that we lightly debate because we feel similarly. The watch world is almost endless, providing us with nearly infinite opportunities to learn and enjoy. Our watch content starts 15 minutes into the show. Both […] Visit Fratello On Air: Collecting Watches - Will We Ever Stop? to read the full article.

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