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Five Bremont watches to check out in the metal Time+Tide
Bremont watches Jul 30, 2021

Five Bremont watches to check out in the metal

The pandemic has really taken a toll on businesses around the world, with many consumers locked down and unable to visit storefronts in person. In terms of watches, this has proved a real shame as it is always fun to pop into your local boutique and go hands-on with some novelties in the metal. Fortunately, … ContinuedThe post Five Bremont watches to check out in the metal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tutima Introduces the M2 Seven Seas S SJX Watches
Tutima Jul 30, 2021

Tutima Introduces the M2 Seven Seas S

Historically a supplier of timepieces to the German military and police, Tutima now offers a broad line of “tool” watches. The latest from the Glashütte-based brand is the M2 Seven Seas S, the first version of its dive watch with a steel case (prior models are all titanium). Initial thoughts Tutima’s M2 line of sports watches are all big and solid, with chunky but streamlined cases modelled on the ref. 798 chronograph the brand once supplied to the German military. While simple, they are effective tool watches. The Seven Seas S sticks to the same formula, except in steel. That means it’s heavier, which might not be for everyone given the size. But the steel has the upside of a brushed finished with some polished accents, giving the case and bracelet a more varied look than the uniform sandblasted finish of the titanium model. But the best thing about the Seven Seas S is the version with a yellow dégradé dial, which darkens to a green-black at its edges. It’s an unusual and striking finish that sets the Seven Seas S apart from most of the competition. The only drawback with the new Seven Seas is the ETA 2824 inside. It’s robust and easy to service, but has a short power reserve of just 38 hours, which means it’ll probably stop if off the wrist for more than a day. Power reserves of 50 to 70 hours are now the industry norm, even at the entry level, so this disadvantages the Seven Seas. The Seven Seas S is relatively affordable and fairly competitively price...

VIDEO: The Seiko SPB239J is a retro-styled crowd pleaser Time+Tide
Seiko SPB239J Jul 30, 2021

VIDEO: The Seiko SPB239J is a retro-styled crowd pleaser

The craze for the Seiko 62MAS style shows no signs of slowing down, with the release of this SPB239J essentially confirming the brand’s intention to continue their climb into a higher tier of watchmaking. This vintage-inspired blueprint will continue to be adapted for all tastes, and this particular reference is sure to be a crowd … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Seiko SPB239J is a retro-styled crowd pleaser appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Zenith Chronomaster Original Collection hits the sweet spot in three different forms Time+Tide
Zenith Chronomaster Original Collection hits Jul 29, 2021

VIDEO: The Zenith Chronomaster Original Collection hits the sweet spot in three different forms

In the 1960s, Zenith developed the El Primero to be the world’s first integrated automatic chronograph movement. Back then the world was crying out for innovation: new techniques, new designs, and new possibilities. Now watch buyers increasingly seem to appreciate tradition, vintage reissues and smaller sizes. The Zenith Chronomaster Original offers both progress and nostalgia … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Zenith Chronomaster Original Collection hits the sweet spot in three different forms appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: The Audacity of Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Concept SJX Watches
Piaget s Altiplano Ultimate Concept Jul 28, 2021

In-Depth: The Audacity of Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Concept

A relentless pursuit of diminishing returns seems to be the norm in the world of high-end watchmaking. Better finishing, lightness, longer power reserve, or chronometric performance, refined and enhanced to the nth degree – there is always something to improve, but by tinier and tinier margins. Brands and watchmakers, in turn, often develop a specific niche, trying to best each other with ever-smaller improvements. In the niche of ultra-thin watches, there are only a handful of serious players. Piaget is one such player. The brand’s forte is thickness, or rather, thinness – Piaget has held the record for the thinnest production watch on multiple occasions, with only a handful of rivals able to best its various records. And now it’s the reigning champ once again with the Altiplano Ultimate Concept (AUC). Just 2 mm high in its entirety, the AUC is so thin it looks almost like an optical illusion in photos – and a prop in real life. But it is a perfectly functional – and water-resistant – mechanical wristwatch. So the question is, how did Piaget do it? And of course, do the diminishing marginal gains justify the retail price of approximately 400,000 Swiss francs? Altiplano evolution Prior to the AUC, Piaget’s best-known attempt at the crown was the Altiplano 900P. Released in 2013, the Altiplano 900P stands just 3.65 mm high. It held the record of the thinnest mechanical watch on the market until 2015, when the title taken by Piaget’s sister brand, Jaeg...

Zenith And Swiss Open Gstaad: Reaching For Tennis Stars With The Chronomaster Sport And Chronomaster Original Quill & Pad
Zenith Jul 28, 2021

Zenith And Swiss Open Gstaad: Reaching For Tennis Stars With The Chronomaster Sport And Chronomaster Original

As Zenith is a sponsor of the Swiss Open in Gstaad, Elizabeth Doerr had the opportunity to attend the 2021 edition where she handled a number of Zenith’s most recent watch releases, falling in love with two in particular: the new Chronomaster Original and Chronomaster Sport Gold, both powered by the legendary (and now updated) El Primero chronograph movement.

Oscar Isaac sports a Piaget Polo S in upcoming film “The Card Counter” Time+Tide
Piaget Polo S Jul 28, 2021

Oscar Isaac sports a Piaget Polo S in upcoming film “The Card Counter”

As COVID restrictions ease in New York, one of the things I am very excited to bring back into my life is going to the cinema to see a film. While we are all very used to streaming content at home, there is something magical about watching a movie in the theatre and taking it … ContinuedThe post Oscar Isaac sports a Piaget Polo S in upcoming film “The Card Counter” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Konstantin Chaykin Introduces the Wristmon Minotaur SJX Watches
Zodiac edition Jul 28, 2021

Konstantin Chaykin Introduces the Wristmon Minotaur

Four years after the debut of the Joker – and its myriad subsequent iterations – Russian independent watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin still manages to surprise and impress. The latest version of Chaykin’s googly-eyed wristwatch is the Wristmon Minotaur. The third instalment in the watchmaker’s annual Chinese zodiac edition, the Minotaur has a case and dial that mimics the head of a bull, since 2021 is the Year of the Ox. Although its hour and minute display are identical to the early versions of the Joker, the Minotaur has been upgraded in several ways, including with a dual-letter day display and a Vaucher base movement. Initial thoughts The Minotaur is another excellent design by Mr Chaykin, and one of his more amusing creations since the original Joker. Not only does the dial form a face, but the case has been reworked to resemble a bull’s head with asymmetric lugs where the upper pair resemble a pair of horns. More importantly, the Minotaur is not merely a tweak of colour or design. Its functionality has been revamped, namely with the nostril display that shows the first two letters of the day. In fact, the novel day display is another example of Mr Chaykin’s ingenious realisation of function following form, but done well enough that it feels just right. And the price of the Minotaur is in line with recent watches in the Wristmon collection, which is around US$22,000. While significantly pricier than the original Joker that cost around about US$7,500, the new ...

Three big questions raised by the sale of the green dial steel Nautilus for half a million US dollars. What are your answers? Time+Tide
Jul 28, 2021

Three big questions raised by the sale of the green dial steel Nautilus for half a million US dollars. What are your answers?

The watch community hit peak frustration last week, irked by the sale of a still-sealed, green dial steel Nautilus for $490,000 USD. Flipping is rife in this hobby, and many see it as the largest problem in watch collecting today – a practice that makes it harder to secure in-demand timepieces. Sure, it’s nothing new, … ContinuedThe post Three big questions raised by the sale of the green dial steel Nautilus for half a million US dollars. What are your answers? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

What does the “fit and finish” of a watch actually mean and should I even care? Time+Tide
Jul 27, 2021

What does the “fit and finish” of a watch actually mean and should I even care?

“Fit and Finish”. If you search watch forums enough or eyeball videos on Youtube, you will undoubtedly run into this term. Initially, I had an inkling as to what it was referencing, but I hadn’t grasped its importance or whether I should even care. But as I started to dig deeper, I began to get … ContinuedThe post What does the “fit and finish” of a watch actually mean and should I even care? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cheap Bastard: The Undone Urban 34 Killy Black Rose is a $300 tangerine dream Time+Tide
Jul 26, 2021

Cheap Bastard: The Undone Urban 34 Killy Black Rose is a $300 tangerine dream

Unlike my erudite and learned colleagues on this website, those who have read this column in the past will know my horological lusts aren’t governed by the usual parameters.  Which is my way of saying that a bargain is where I’m at. To paraphrase the great Billy Connolly: “My dad was so tight he’d wake … ContinuedThe post Cheap Bastard: The Undone Urban 34 Killy Black Rose is a $300 tangerine dream appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Massena Lab Refreshes the Uni-Racer with Fun Colours SJX Watches
Massena Lab Refreshes Jul 26, 2021

Massena Lab Refreshes the Uni-Racer with Fun Colours

Massena Lab is a design studio that got its start collaborating with independent watchmakers on limited edition timepieces. But the firm more recently unveiled watches under its own label, starting with last year’s Uni-Racer, a chronograph modelled on the mid-20th century Universal Genève “Big Eye” chronograph. Founded by William Rohr, best known for being the former manager of the Timezone.com watch forum, Massena Lab follows up with the Uni-Racer Holiday Collection, a trio of chronographs time clad in funky colours with a retro bent that bring to mind watches of the 1970s. Initial thoughts Vintage remakes have been trendy for several years now, and the sheer number of them mean they are often hit-or-miss. It’s rare for a remake to get the details right ­­– especially since the case and movement are modern ­– something that takes a keen eye to decide what to copy and what to tweak. Mr Rohr’s creations often get the details right – the two-tone sector dial jumping seconds and gilt dial chronograph are cases in point – reflecting his decades of watch collecting. And importantly they are fairly priced. But the Uni-Racer Chronograph stands out from Massena Lab’s portfolio to date. Not only was it the first watch to bear the Massena Lab brand, but it was a near-exact copy of the vintage original – which split opinions and elicited lots of vocal critiques on social media. Uni-Racer “Rally” Still, for anyone who appreciates old-school design, ...

Chanel Introduces the Monsieur Marble Edition SJX Watches
Chanel Introduces Jul 26, 2021

Chanel Introduces the Monsieur Marble Edition

While Chanel started the year with the J12 in rainbow colours inspired by electronic dance music, its latest is sleek and stark in black and white. The Monsieur Marble Edition is a variation of the Monsieur Edition Noire from 2019, retaining the same steel and ceramic case – and the in-house Caliber 1 movement – but matched with a dial in glossy black marble with white veining. Initial thoughts I liked the original Monsieur de Chanel when it was launched in 2016. Even though Chanel is a primarily fashion house, the Monsieur was proof it made excellent watches for men. Its design was thoughtful, and the movement attractively executed in both style and construction. The subsequent Monsieur in black ceramic had all the same qualities, but an monochromatic look that made it more appealing. And the new version is even more appealing, because the marble dial looks good. Even though the only change is the marble dial, its natural grain goes well with the design of the Monsieur, so the whole is greater than the sum of the parts. Price wise, however, the new Monsieur is harder to digest. At just under US$37,000, it costs almost US$10,000 more than the original version in ceramic, which was a reasonable-enough proposition considering the design and movement. The Marble Edition is unquestionably beautiful – I’d want one – but the price is steep. Black and white Each dial is made of one piece of marble carefully cut into three to form each section of the dial, allowing the ...

INTRODUCING: The Farer Lander IV GMT puts a British twist on a classic watch Time+Tide
Farer Lander IV GMT puts Jul 26, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Farer Lander IV GMT puts a British twist on a classic watch

Every time I encounter a new Farer, I’m looking forward to a double delight. This brand specialises in juxtaposing a very British sense of elegance with an unreserved flourish of colour. The closest thing I can equate the Farer Lander IV GMT to is the Savile Row tailoring of Oswald Boateng, whose immaculate silhouettes are … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Farer Lander IV GMT puts a British twist on a classic watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Makina Raum is a statement piece that dares to be different Time+Tide
Jul 25, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The Makina Raum is a statement piece that dares to be different

In some ways, the boom of microbrands in the past few years has reignited the golden age of suppliers from the 1950s. Leaf through a catalogue, pick out your parts, print your logo on the dial, and with a bit of luck you can have a successful Kickstarter project to launch your watch. But that … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Makina Raum is a statement piece that dares to be different appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watch Customization: The Top Of The Pyramid – Reprise Quill & Pad
Jul 25, 2021

Watch Customization: The Top Of The Pyramid – Reprise

To the “right” person and for the “right” price anything can be customized – whisky, cars, shampoo, and, of course, timepieces. This second article in Chris Malburg’s watch customization trilogy shines a light on the high-end of the watch customization spectrum, uncovering three uber-exclusive brands that work in the stratosphere of the customization price range revealing what it takes to get the job done.