Deployant
The Insider View: Industry status and major Trends
We will begin to carry the monthly Luxury Industry Performance Index by Dr. Frank Muller, CEO of TBTL, and special correspondent to Deployant writes.
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22,834 articles · 171 videos found · page 688 of 767
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Time+Tide
“No other Rolex is designed like this” – Michael’s Rolex Deepsea
Whether it’s the Submariner, Sea-Dweller or Deepsea, Rolex’s iconic range of professional dive watches have rather a lot in common. However, as Michael points out with his prized Deepsea ref.126660, the legacy watchmaker’s amphibious timepieces are not all created equal. In fact, the first time that Michael realised he wanted to own the herculean dive watch … ContinuedThe post “No other Rolex is designed like this” – Michael’s Rolex Deepsea appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Grand Seiko’s epic Spring Drive Chronograph – the SBGC203
In general, Grand Seiko has a reputation for being somewhat stealthy on the wrist - but, to be honest, that’s not the case with this chunk of finely crafted steel, better known as the Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph SBGC203. At a sizeable 43.5mm across by 16.1mm tall, this isn’t the sort of watch that … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Grand Seiko’s epic Spring Drive Chronograph – the SBGC203 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Introducing the MIH Gaïa Watch
One of Switzerland’s most important timepiece museums, the Musée International d’Horlogerie (MIH), is raising funds with a limited edition, rising hours wristwatch that’s both cleanly styled and affordable. Arriving some 14 years after the first, minimalist MIH watch created by independent watchmakers Ludwig Oechslin and Paul Gerber, the MIH Gaïa watch, named after the annual Gaïa Prize given out by the MIH, is the result of a collaboration between watch industry suppliers located in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the hometown of the MIH. The MIH Gaïa watch will be crowdfunded, and a minimum number of orders will be needed for it to enter production. Importantly, the MIH Gaïa watch is priced at about US$2400, half what the original MIH watch with an annual calendar cost about a decade ago, making it a compelling value proposition. A local collaboration Each aspect of the watch, from design to the case, was the work of a local supplier. Some are little known outside the industry, like buckle maker Cornu & Cie, while others are famous – the dial was made by Jean Singer & Cie, best known for the dials it made for Rolex and Patek Philippe in the mid 20th century. Slightly bowl-shaped, the case of the watch is inspired by the MIH building, while the domed dial is inspired by the spherical Gaïa Prize trophy. Time is indicated on two discs: rising hours in a window at 12 o’clock, and the the minutes on a disc just below. It’s a classically sized timepiece...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Frederique Constant Yacht Timer Regatta Countdown
One of watchmaking's most charming complications returns to Frederique Constant.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Nomos Tangente Neomatik “Red Dot” Limited Editions
Singapore watch retailer The Hour Glass has just unveiled yet another limited edition to mark the its 40th year – the Nomos Tangente Neomatik 39 Red Dot. It’s the most affordable anniversary edition yet, and also also the third in the annual “Red Dot” series of watches made for Singapore. Available in four iterations, each limited to just 50 pieces, the limited edition is based on the bestselling Tangente automatic, arguably the quintessential Nomos. It screams, or rather quietly declares, Nomos’ design philosophy of Deutscher Werkbund, the predecessor of Bauhaus, and is characterised by a clean dial with large, alternating hour numerals and a case with thin, angular lugs. While most limited-edition watches from Nomos vary in colour, with subtle, yet profound tweaks to the palette, the new Red Dot quartet departs from the norm in one drastic way: the first pair features Eastern Arabic numerals, while the second has its hours in Chinese oracle bone script. According to The Hour Glass, the use of both scripts is a nod to Singapore’s history as an entrepot where traders from both the Near East and Far East often stopped. All four watches also pay tribute to the country with a small in-joke, with a little red dot at six o’clock – a reference to the city state’s frequent depiction on maps. The Eastern Arabic duo Bone oracle script and the “little red dot” Essentialism First conceived in 1992 by Nomos founder Roland Schwertner, the Tangente...
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces the Millenary Frosted Gold Philosophique
Audemars Piguet’s latest watch for ladies is an elegant complication, or more specifically, a simplification with a twist. Inspired by a wristwatch from the 1980s, the Millenary Frosted Gold Philosophique has only a single hand for the hours, and nothing else. But the hour hand doesn’t travel in a circle, instead it traces the oval shape of the case. Single-handed pocket watches already existed in the 18th century, when the precise time was not a concern for most people. But Audemars Piguet revived the concept in 1982 with the original Philosophique, a one-handed wristwatch styled like a pocket watch, with its crown at 12 o’clock. Though it was a men’s watch, the original Philosophique is tiny by modern standards, measuring just 32mm in diameter, making it significantly smaller than today’s Millenary Philosophique for ladies. Available in white or pink gold, the Millenary Frosted Gold Philosophique features a striking, contrast case finish of granular “frosted gold” and mirror-polished surfaces. Inspired by Florentine jewellery, the frosted surface is achieved by hand, with a sharp tool that creates tiny indentations on the gold. The dial is finished with an irregular “hammer-like” surface, echoing the case decoration. But more intriguing than the decoration is the trajectory of the hour hand. Instead of travelling in a circle, the hour hand follows an elliptical path, tracing the outline of the oval Millenary case. This is possible because the hour...
Time+Tide
Looking at the Bremont Military Watches and Special Projects Division
If you decided to buy a Bremont watch, you could go to your nearest Bremont boutique (or their online store) and buy almost any model in their catalogue that your heart desired. What you can’t buy, however, are any of the pieces from the Bremont Military Watches and Special Projects Division. These pieces are created … ContinuedThe post Looking at the Bremont Military Watches and Special Projects Division appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Revisiting the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin
Editor’s note: Recently, we talked about some sports watches with an integrated bracelet that could be great alternatives to the usual suspects from Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe. Thing is, though, there’s another awesome timepiece from one member of the horological holy trinity that also fits the bill for an awesome integrated sports timepiece – … ContinuedThe post Revisiting the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: John Mayer’s insane watch collection
We’re pretty sure that most of you are already aware of just how absurdly ridiculous Mr John Mayer’s watch collection is, thanks to myriad Instagram posts, news stories and two rather famous Talking Watches episodes. But the sheer scope and significance of the musician’s horological haul still tends to beggar belief, especially if you’ve ever … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: John Mayer’s insane watch collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Review: In With the New – The Patek Philippe Chronograph Ref. 5172G
As the Ref. 5170 is put to retirement, we bring you the details and our thoughts on the new Patek Philippe Chronograph Ref. 5172G.
Revolution
A History of the Dive Watch
In the unforgiving depths under the sea, the dive watch has but one function: to determine when you must turn back, or never at all.
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Les Collectionneurs in Singapore
Les Collectionneurs is a small, but special, line of watches offered by Vacheron Constantin. Made up of select vintage watches that have been restored to pristine condition at the factory, Les Collectionneurs is made up of about 75 watches. A selection is available year-round at three Vacheron Constantin boutiques – the two in Geneva and one in New York City – with the balance travelling and making stops at other boutiques around the world. From now till the end of October, a pick of Les Collectionneurs watches, including the exquisite ref. 4261 minute repeater, are in Singapore, over a year since the line-up last came by. As a whole, the 19-piece selection in Singapore presents a rich and interesting overview of Vacheron Constantin’s midcentury history. The brand’s mastery of case and lug styles is well illustrated, from the dramatic, wing-shaped “Batman” Chronometre Royal to the familiar “teardrop” lugs of the ref. 4178 chronograph. Factory refreshed While the models in Les Collectionneurs are diverse, and also acquired from a variety of sources, ranging from private collectors to auctions, they are all selected based on shared criteria: rarity, provenance, and of course, current trends. More importantly, the watches are fully and correctly restored, and delivered with an archive extract as well as a two-year warranty. For the client, that’s essentially the same assurance as when buying a brand new watch. Importantly, the factory approa...
SJX Watches
Sneak Peek: Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain “Only Watch”
On a recent trip to Geneva I dropped by the Akrivia workshops in the city’s Old Town and spotted the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain “Only Watch”, still in its constituent parts and almost ready for assembly. The dial, however, was finished and gorgeous. It’s a serene grey-blue, made of translucent enamel over a hand-hammered dial plate. Produced with lots of careful effort and a tiny hammer, the hammered finish is usually only applied to Akrivia’s gold dials found on the AK series watches, and is being combined with enamel for the first, and probably only, time. It was a tedious process to get right, which is why the Akrivia is one of the last to be completed amongst the Only Watch line-up. Produced by the same Geneva enamel artisan that does the fired enamel, or grand feu, dials of the standard watch, this dial for the Only Watch example is the second one made, hence “version 2” on its packaging. Rexhep felt the first dial made was not up to scratch – it had too much variation in colour – and had a second one produced. And the first dial was finished only after a handful of trial runs, where it was established that the thinning effect of the hammered surface meant it could not be counter-enamelled on the back as the standard dials are. Aside from the hammered surface, the dial is also unique because the markings are painted in fired enamel, rather than printed. This makes the numbers, lines and text more substantial. And because the ena...
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Blue, gold and oh-so-bold, the Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT SBGE248
Grand Seiko has something of a reputation for finely finished understatement. This watch is, well, a little extra. That’s not to say that the Grand Seiko SBGE248 isn’t as finely finished as you’d expect, it’s just that, thanks to its popping blue and gold colourway, this Grand Seiko isn’t under anyone’s radar. Which, honestly, is … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Blue, gold and oh-so-bold, the Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT SBGE248 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono Dark
Tudor has decided to honour its partnership with New Zealand’s All Blacks the only way it knows how … with a limited edition watch, the Tudor Black Bay Chrono Dark. Made to not only pay tribute to the All Blacks’ illustrious history, which dates back to 1884, the Chrono Dark also celebrates the rugby team’s … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono Dark appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Raketa Copernic
Russian watchmaker Raketa has just released a modern interpretation of its classic Raketa Copernic wristwatch, and it is a uniquely compelling timepiece. First created in the 1980s in the twilight of the Soviet Union, the original Copernic was made to honour the renaissance-era Polish astronomer and mathematician Nicolaus Copernicus. Like the original, the new homage … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Raketa Copernic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Throwback Sundays: Six Stealth Wealth watches that could fool a seasoned watch collector
Most seasoned watch collectors will easily recognize the usual culprits, the Pateks, Rolexes, APs, Richemont/Swatch/LVMH brands from a distance. In order to make this list of watches that qualify as stealth wealth, we have chosen timepieces that are 'unexpectedly' expensive, yet not instantly recognizable. They look simple on the dial side, yet have hidden complications and/or 'insane' finishing.
SJX Watches
Frederique Constant Introduces the Regatta Countdown Chronograph
A Swiss brand now owned by Citizen Watch of Japan, Frederique Constant excels at complications in an affordable and reasonable manner, and now it has added the Regatta Countdown Chronograph to its repertoire. Unlike many yachting watches that are often over-designed with nautical details – think pennants and lots of colours – Frederique Constant has kept its regatta chronograph clean. Priced a bit over US$3000, the Yacht Timer Regatta Countdown has two key elements: central chronograph seconds hand and five circular apertures lined up under 12 o’clock. The apertures function as a 5- or 10-minute regatta countdown timer; this records the time just before the start of a race when yachts position themselves for the best spot at the starting line. When the chronograph is inactive, the apertures show white discs. Once started with the pusher at two o’clock, the apertures turn blue one by one, with each aperture representing one elapsed minute. After five minutes, and five blue apertures, the five-minute countdown to the race begins. The apertures progressively change from showing blue to orange, again at the rate of one a minute. The dials – blue or silver – are straightforward, apart from the countdown windows, and decorated with a hobnail guilloche. Luminous hands match the luminous baton hour markers. Rated to 100m, the case is steel (or gold-plated steel), and 42mm in diameter. Notably, it’s fitted with an upscale, “box-type” sapphire crystal that has ...
Quill & Pad
The Inside Story Of How One Collector’s ‘Paul Newman’ Rolex Made It Into The Hit Film ‘Crazy Rich Asians’
One day vintage expert Eric Wind's friend Kevin Kwan sent him a fateful 'URGENT!!!' e-mail searching for an 'impressive' new or vintage watch for a special scene in the movie version of his book 'Crazy Rich Asians.' He sourced a valuable 'Paul Newman' Rolex from a collector in Singapore and when Eric was invited to an advanced screening of the film in New York, he waited with bated breath for the scene, not knowing what to expect. But when Astrid handed her husband the watch in the movie and the beautiful 'Paul Newman' dial got a solo shot on screen, it was pure magic!
Time+Tide
Unsung Heroes: 4 integrated steel sports watches that deserve your attention
For many of us out there, the dream of one day owning a grail watch, like an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15500 or Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1A, is going to remain just that … a dream. And the funny part is, it’s got nothing to do with the amount of spondulicks in your bank account! No, … ContinuedThe post Unsung Heroes: 4 integrated steel sports watches that deserve your attention appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It’s 6 months on, how are we feeling about Tudor’s 2019 releases now?
Editor’s note: The dust has well and truly settled on this year’s watch releases, and they’re starting to filter out into the world and onto wrists. This is as true with Tudor as it is with anyone else. Though we haven’t seen any P01 watches out in the wild yet, we thought the timing was … ContinuedThe post It’s 6 months on, how are we feeling about Tudor’s 2019 releases now? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Tudor Black Bay Chrono Dark Limited Edition
Tudor’s latest watch is major – beyond the watch itself – for it is the first publicly available limited edition in its 70-year history. In an industry where limited editions usually emphasise “edition” rather than “limited”, the Black Bay Chrono Dark is limited to just 1181 pieces at time of writing (though the number will creep up each year; more on that below). The new watch is a nod to Tudor’s partnership with the New Zealand national rugby union team, better known as the All Blacks – perhaps the most successful rugby team in history. Named for the all-black team jersey bearing a silver fern emblem, the All Blacks provide a literal inspiration for the Black Bay Chrono Dark, which has a black-coated case and bracelet. It’s essentially a cooler, limited and monochromatic version of a watch that is already an excellent value proposition. The watch is based on the Black Bay Chrono launched two years ago. Though it was slightly controversial aesthetically – the design being a mishmash of dive and driving watches – the Black Bay Chrono was well-regarded for being good value; it was powered by a sophisticated chronograph movement based on the Calibre 01 made by Breitling. Proving to be something that grew on you over time, the line-up was joined by the two-tone Black Bay Chrono S&G; unveiled at Baselworld 2019. Now the collection grows to include the Black Bay Chrono Dark, exactly 1181 examples of it to be specific. This is the numbe...
Time+Tide
7 fun facts I discovered at the Seiko Museum
Editor’s note: Seiko is a brand with a pretty incredible history. And a lot of this history goes under the radar, to be honest. Which is why, when Sandra visited Tokyo last year we strongly suggested she make a detour to Seiko’s Museum. Here’s what she learned … If you’re ever in Tokyo, I strongly … ContinuedThe post 7 fun facts I discovered at the Seiko Museum appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Limited Edition Zodiac X Liberty Super Sea Wolf
Hot off the heels of their last limited-run homage piece, the Astrographic, Zodiac has teamed up with the London-based luxury retailer Liberty to give us this – the Zodiac X Liberty Super Sea Wolf. Like Zodiac, Liberty has been around for more than a century, and has a brilliant history of providing Londoners, as well … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Limited Edition Zodiac X Liberty Super Sea Wolf appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED LISTENING: H. Moser’s Edouard Meylan on running a watch brand like a startup
Two figures who I respect tremendously in their respective fields are H. Moser & Cie. CEO Edouard Meylan and Blamo! host (and man who can rock a soft yellow hat like nobody else) Jeremy Kirkland. So when the two got together on the latest edition of the podcast, I knew it was going to pop. … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED LISTENING: H. Moser’s Edouard Meylan on running a watch brand like a startup appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Basic instinct – the Panerai Luminor Base Logo 3 Days (PAM00775)
Editor’s note: Panerai has been on a real Submersible kick this year, along with the lighter Due models - but it’s hard to go past the watch that started it all. And this watch, the Panerai Luminor Base Logo 3 Days (PAM00775), really demonstrates why, as Sandra explains … Not a Radiomir to be seen this … ContinuedThe post Basic instinct – the Panerai Luminor Base Logo 3 Days (PAM00775) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
EVENT: Wheels up with the new Pilot’s collection at IWC’s Melbourne boutique
Last night, Time+Tide, along with IWC and Kennedy Watches & Jewellery, hosted an intimate gathering at IWC’s Melbourne boutique. And even though it’s officially ticked over to spring, the evening was brisk, so the horological faithful were truly faithful. But once ensconced in the warm, well-lit space, the cold melted away in the presence of … ContinuedThe post EVENT: Wheels up with the new Pilot’s collection at IWC’s Melbourne boutique appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Alpina Startimer Pilot Heritage Chronograph
We don’t hear too much about Alpina, but the new Alpina Startimer Pilot Heritage Chronograph line is one of the more exciting vintage-style releases this year. This is why. Aside from having three equally appealing dial colour options, the monopusher movement and case geometry adopted by Alpina for this release is particularly noteworthy and makes … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Alpina Startimer Pilot Heritage Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Champagne campaign – the 37mm Rado Captain Cook Automatic now comes with a lovely light dial
Editor’s note: It’s no longer news that so-called smaller watches are back. And one of the leading lights in the movement is the Rado Captain Cook. The latest version, with a Champagne dial, is really something to celebrate. We had a hint of it a little while ago when Justin previewed the larger Captain Cook … ContinuedThe post Champagne campaign – the 37mm Rado Captain Cook Automatic now comes with a lovely light dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.