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Introducing: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon
The Royal Oak takes flight for the first time.
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SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon
The tourbillon regulator first found its way into the Royal Oak in 1997, with what was then a novel automatic movement with a hammer winding mechanism. Audemars Piguet has just announced the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon 41 mm, a nod to the 1997 original, but with a twist – it’s the first Royal Oak equipped with a flying tourbillon. Launching in three variants, the new model is superficially similar to the existing Royal Oak tourbillon – it is very much the octagonal watch – but it is notably different, both in aesthetics and mechanics. From left to right: pink gold, steel, and titanium Immediately, the titanium version stands out, not only because the metal is used sparingly by the brand, but also because the dial has a grained finish instead of the conventional tapisserie guilloche. And it is powered by the newish cal. 2950, a self-winding movement, no doubt a subtle reference to AP’s status as a pioneering maker of wristwatch tourbillons – the brand introduced the first ever automatic tourbillon wristwatch in 1986. The Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon in titanium Initial thoughts The Royal Oak is an appealing watch in most guises – usually the simpler the better – not just for its design but also the complex and sophisticated case finish. And the tourbillon in titanium is particularly distinctive for its clean, modern dial that goes well with the industrial-chic style of the case design. Importantly, this is not a mere facelift. It’...
Revolution
Introducing the G-SHOCK MT-G MTG-B2000
Since 1983, each new G-SHOCK introduction has taken the “Triple 10” principle to new heights. This now includes the MTG-B2000 launching November 2020.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon 41mm is a bridge between the past and the future
If you’re a regular reader of Time+Tide, you’ll probably know that Audemars Piguet are well known for their skill in making tourbillons. This year alone, the Le Brassus-based brand has released a number of tourbillon watches, which we’ve covered here, here and here, but Audemars Piguet isn’t slowing down. Today the watchmaker announced the release … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon 41mm is a bridge between the past and the future appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
What We Liked And What We Didn’t Like At The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, Plus How Well Our Panel’s Forecasts Did (Spoiler Alert: Not Very)
Our Quill & Pad panelists discuss the virtual evening of the 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève and what we thought of the big night’s winners. Plus we reveal how good (or poor) our predictions were.
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The Most Expensive Rolex Submariner?? - Blue Rolex Submariner \
Quill & Pad
On The Importance Of Antoine Simonin And His Special Jury Prize At The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève By Dr. Rebecca Struthers
Of all the winners from the 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, this was the one that really made Dr. Rebecca Struthers smile! Among all the glamour of the watch industry, it’s easy to forget the importance of education; here she reminds us why that – and Antoine Simonin – are important to the wellbeing of our ticking microcosm.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin Tourbillon Moon
A tourbillon for the romantic in you.
Deployant
Credor Eichi II Blue Edition – the first in a year to celebrate 140 years of Seiko
To begin a year of celebration of the 140th anniversary of the establishment by Kintaro Hattori in 1881, Seiko Watch Corporation releases a new edition of Credor Eichi II – in a Platinum 950 case and, for the first time, a blue dial. Credor and Micro Artist Studio Press Release details with links to earlierRead More
Time+Tide
WHY I BOUGHT IT: My Tudor Oyster Prince has the Rolex stamp of approval, without the price tag
To the average punter, casual enthusiast or proper aficionado, there is one brand that manages to muscle itself into just about every current conversation about watches. And the king rightly wears the crown. But there’s a problem for many, should they intend to deepen their own relationship with Rolex. Namely, the inflated prices that we … ContinuedThe post WHY I BOUGHT IT: My Tudor Oyster Prince has the Rolex stamp of approval, without the price tag appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The only thing I want buzzing on my wrist is a Memovox. Why I’ll never wear an Apple Watch…
You don’t need the statistics to tell you that Apple Watches sell more than the rest of the Swiss watch industry combined. You need only to glance at people’s wrists. You can’t miss those sleek square slabs. They’re everywhere. Worn by every age group, in every profession. I’ve been told they’re particularly popular among undertakers, … ContinuedThe post The only thing I want buzzing on my wrist is a Memovox. Why I’ll never wear an Apple Watch… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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REVIEW: The Nomos Lambda Steel \
SJX Watches
Insight: High-Tech LIGA Within the Rolex Daytona Cal. 4130
In-house movements are common in modern watchmaking, and practically the norm at the biggest brands. But new movements are usually developed to replace existing calibres, making 21st century movements with lifespans of decades fairly uncommon. Such mechanical longevity, on the other hand, is only possible with consistently implementing incremental but significant technical upgrades. Perhaps more than others, Rolex has perfected the art of carefully engineered movements that remain in production for many, many years thanks to incremental upgrades. The sheer scale of Rolex as a manufacture doubtlessly plays a big role in making that possible. Producing close to a million watches a year, according to estimates by banks Vontobel and Morgan Stanley – and owning almost all of its distribution and after-sales service network – Rolex certainly possesses tremendous data on the performance of its movements over prolonged, real-world use. Such information would be invaluable boosting the performance of its movements as well as extending the longevity of the calibre designs. The Cosmograph calibre One such long-lived movement is the cal. 4130 that debuted inside the Cosmograph Daytona in 2000. Over its two decade production run, the chronograph calibre – featuring both a column wheel and vertical clutch – has undergone four key technical updates according to Rolex, all of which are found in the cal. 4130s produced today. [And any Daytona with earlier versions of the cal. 41...
SJX Watches
Longines Introduces the Legend Diver Watch in Bronze
For watch enthusiasts, Longines’ forte is its Heritage collection, a series of well-priced vintage remakes that began with the Legend Diver of 2007. Based on the ref. 7042 of 1960s, which had a distinctive, twin-crown “Super Compressor” case, the Legend Diver is a bestseller thanks to its convincingly retro style. And now Longines has just unveiled the Legend Diver Watch in bronze, which has a new case material for the model, but does away with the date function long panned by aficionados. Initial thoughts Bronze is a popular case material for dive watches that was once exotic but is now a bit too faddish, being found on watches priced as low as a few hundred dollars. Its desirability comes from its unusual, evolving appearance from the patina that develops on its surface as its oxidises. A Legend Diver in bronze is a natural move – and the watch looks good, while retaining the appealing affordability typical of Longines. While the material is the highlight, the dial has been tweaked to match the bronze case. Most notable is the elimination of the date display found on the standard, steel Legend Diver but not on the original, which brings the design of the bronze model closer to the vintage model. At the same time, the dial has a smoked, green finish that matches the colour of bronze well. With a price tag of US$3,000, the bronze Legend Diver is about 30% more expensive than its steel counterpart. It’s a modest and fair premium, considering both the case mate...
Hodinkee
Recommended Reading: The Cartier Watch To Look For When Bingeing The Latest Season Of 'The Crown'
A royal watch has sparked some serious speculation – and Vanity Fair has the scoop.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The HODINKEE Magazine, Volume 7
In-depth stories from the global watch community are a perfect antidote to a year defined by distance.
Deployant
The New Patek Philippe Twenty~4 Manchette – An Icon Rebooted
Patek Philippe Twenty~4 Manchette In the world of ladies’ luxury timepieces, the Patek Philippe Twenty~4 has been the go-to collection for women since its debut in 1999. The goal initially was to create a watch that could be worn all day and was versatile enough for business or evening wear. And thus the original Twenty~4Read More
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The IWC Portugieser Chronograph: A Modern Classic | A Week On The Wrist
Revolution
Defender of The Realm
A lifelong Defender fan and passionate collector of vintage Land Rovers, George Bamford talks about his love for the 21st-century reimagined Defender. Initially a sceptic, he is now a fully-fledged member of the fan club.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Moser Streamliner Centre Seconds dragon breathes pure fire
Once again they manage to surprise us, from ironic rectangular horology to a hypnotising collaboration with MB&F;, to this, where Moser enter the ring for the strongly contested Integrated Steel Sports Watch Bracelet contest. Yes, I tried it on – and did not want to take it off – the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Moser Streamliner Centre Seconds dragon breathes pure fire appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Chopard Introduces the Mille Miglia Lab One Tourbillon
Chopard recently unveiled the latest iteration of its Mille Miglia chronograph, a long-established model with conventional looks lightly inspired by classic cars. But it also unveiled the Mille Miglia Lab One Tourbillion, which is also automobile-inspired but instead by modern-day, hybrid hypercars. Drastically different and unabashedly contemporary, the Lab One is large, lightweight, and boasts a technically-impressive form movement with two notable features, a vertical hacking mechanism for the tourbillon as well as a back-winder crown. Initial thoughts While Chopard’s catalogue includes numerous classical, complicated watches that are well done – basically the entire L.U.C line – few of them possess strong design and rarely jump out at you. The Lab One is the opposite: unusual and original, and appealing – but polarising in terms of design. This not Chopard’s first foray in high-end, complicated sports watches, though it has not had much success in a segment dominated by brands like Richard Mille and Hublot. While its peers have refined their aesthetic into a recognisable style, Chopard is not well versed at such design. The watch is replete with car-inspired elements, but incorporated with varying degrees of coherence. It does, however, excel at watchmaking. Compared with the competition, the Lab One wins hands down in terms of technical achievement relative to price. Impressively kitted out with a hacking tourbillion, the Lab One is priced at $129,000,...
Time+Tide
3 watches you can get from the brand new Jaeger-LeCoultre Melbourne boutique right now
The lockdown in Melbourne has made us miss a lot of things. An avocado-heavy brunch with friends. A cocktail at Eau-de-Vie. And also the opening of the brand new Jaeger-LeCoultre Melbourne boutique. You heard me correctly, Jaeger-LeCoultre has a new home in Melbourne at the Paris end of Collins Street, right next to its Richemont … ContinuedThe post 3 watches you can get from the brand new Jaeger-LeCoultre Melbourne boutique right now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: Vario modernises the first wristwatch with their 1918 Trench line
Military watches, or tool watches, are incredibly popular in today’s marketplace – with heritage becoming a huge emotional driver behind watch purchases. The Vario 1918 Trench Watch is a new and affordable option for buyers looking for a detail-driven and military-inspired timepiece. Vario carefully considers each component utilised within their Trench watches, working to provide the best … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Vario modernises the first wristwatch with their 1918 Trench line appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
The Watchmaking Secret Nobody Knows About | Watchfinder & Co.
Deployant
Lord of the lume – Six recommendations for watches with good lume for Throwback Sunday
Lume. Some of us are obsessed with it. But others don’t seem to give two hoots. For us, we think lumes are the icing in the cake, but only for non-dress watches. And of course, the brighter the better. Here are our picks of 6 of what we feel are the best. We carried aRead More
Time+Tide
Aussie brand Bausele is the official watchmaker of the Royal Australian Air Force Centenary watch, and it’s their best collection yet
Sydney-based watch brand Bausele has been confirmed to produce two watches with the Royal Australian Air Force (RAAF) to mark their centenary. The RAAF’s 100th anniversary will be marked by two special watches that contain parts of RAAF aircraft. The last time the RAAF actually commissioned a watch was in the 1940s, when they commissioned … ContinuedThe post Aussie brand Bausele is the official watchmaker of the Royal Australian Air Force Centenary watch, and it’s their best collection yet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Is the Omega Aqua Terra 150M Master Chronometer the overlooked perfect daily watch?
When people think of Omega, the usual suspects are the Omega Speedmaster and Seamaster. But the truth is the catalogue is so much more than those two collections. The Aqua Terra is an unsung hero, and is arguably Omega’s answer to the Datejust – but with even more technical prowess. These watches feature casual builds with professional-level technology … ContinuedThe post Is the Omega Aqua Terra 150M Master Chronometer the overlooked perfect daily watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
#Kicktock: We pair Nike’s latest drop with the DOXA SUB 200 C-Graph, and magic happens
Hypebeast recently dropped the orange-flavoured candy of the Nike Air Force 1 ’07 LV8 Total Orange, a searchlight-bright version of the iconic trainer. As if the zesty orange wasn’t enough, they have teamed up with 3M for the metallic silver highlights, in an unashamed flash of reflections from the tiniest sliver of sunlight. This is … ContinuedThe post #Kicktock: We pair Nike’s latest drop with the DOXA SUB 200 C-Graph, and magic happens appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
The Rolex Explorer 39mm Review
Rolex is a brand filled with iconic model lines, from the famed Submariner to the beguiling Daytona. The brand has managed to churn out generations of their core models with only the slightest misstep here and there. One of the most recent miscalculations came out of the Explorer range. A line famous for scaling Mount Everest strapped to the wrist of the courageous Sir Edmond Hillary, braving some of the harshest conditions found on Planet Earth, the Explorer proving to be a reliable companion for such a daring endeavour. So, when it came time for Rolex to modernise the piece, and growing to its current 39mm design, it was somewhat bewildering that the Swiss giant forgot to also scale up the hands of the watch. Fear not however, never one to sit on a mistake for long, Rolex released the mark 2 spec of the newer, larger Explorer, this is the watch featured in this hands-on review. Few dials are as iconic and recognisable as the legendary Explorer 3, 6, 9 configuration. The watch being balanced, and imperfectly asymmetrical all at once, never have I looked down at the dial of the Explorer reference 214270 and thought it looked anything but ideal. At 39mm the increase in case diameter has given the dial room to breathe, the prominent Arabic numerals so synonymous with the Explorer are allowed to stand proud, not interfered with or cramped as they may feel on a lesser case size. There is a brilliance to how the dial is proportioned here, the blackness of the dial creates a...
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