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Every Rolex GMT-Master and GMT-Master II: Pepsi, Coke, Batman, Batgirl, Sprite, Root Beer, Polar.
40 mm × 11.85 mm, lug 20 mm, Cal. 3285
40 mm × 11.85 mm, lug 20 mm, Cal. 3285
40 mm × 11.85 mm, lug 20 mm, Cal. 3285
Time+Tide
The Longines Spirit Zulu Time is a true GMT sized at 39mm to suit a wide variety of wrists; and I had the pleasure of spending the last few weeks with it on my wrist.The post Longines Spirit Zulu Time appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires is a limited edition of 8 pieces Its tourbillon calibre, with a spiral balance inclined at 30 degrees, was developed with master watchmaker Eric Coudray Framing the tourbillon, distinctly coloured gems – fuchsia, blue-grey and yellow – rotate at different speeds around the dial I am rather comfortable in … ContinuedThe post The new HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires is a high complication fit for Thanos appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
A few months back, Seiko made a big splash in the watch scene with their sub-$500 GMT watch. With their own GMT movement inside and a design based on the iconic SKX case, they had an instant hit on their hands. We’re happy to offer their two latest dial colors: a dark charcoal grey and a bright and cheerful yellow. Read on to find out more about these two new Seikos that just landed at the Windup Watch Shop. A few months back, Seiko made a big splash in the watch scene with their sub-$500 GMT watch. With their own GMT movement inside and a design based on the iconic SKX case, they had an instant hit on their hands. We’re happy to offer their two latest dial colors: a dark charcoal grey and a bright and cheerful yellow. Read on to find out more about these two new Seikos that just landed at the Windup Watch Shop. The post Seiko Makes It Hard To Choose Favorites With Their New Addition of Seiko 5 GMTs appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Quill & Pad
Having worked with both Bovet and Philippe Dufour, Hervé Schlüchter was able to become a master at the more traditional horology aesthetic since neither could be confused with a brand focusing on modern design. The caliber HS-01 is a smorgasbord of classical elements all finished to perfection to highlight the skills of the watchmaker.
![[VIDEO] Hands-On with the Tudor FXD Alinghi Red Bull Racing Watches](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2023/08/Tudor_FXD_redbull_019.jpg)
Worn & Wound
When Tudor began teasing a new release over the summer, paired with a countdown clock planted in the wake of a passing boat, speculation quickly ended up in the usual places. A new steel BB58? A GMT Pelagos? Perhaps a regatta timer chronograph? As usual, these guesses ended up off the mark, with Tudor instead revealing a new pair of FXD watches made in conjunction with the Alinghi Red Bull Racing team. Along with them, a look at some wholly new features that will undoubtedly spur more predictions about what’s to come. After reviewing the FXD upon its launch in 2021, I’ve grown quite fond of the platform, as I often profess on the Worn & Wound podcast, but how well does it hold up in a different trim? The FXD is a watch that works better in person and on the wrist than it does on paper. It’s large and relatively flat stature that touts a lug to lug measurement north of 50mm thanks to a fixed lug design meaning only passthrough straps can be used. But it’s more than all that on the wrist. It wears slim and the widest bit of the lug is under a strap, so while it’s not as easy going as something like the Pelagos 39, it’s perfectly easy to get along with overall. On top of that, it’s got one of the most low-key interesting personalities of any of the mainline dive watches out there. Additionally, after having completed my open water dive certification with the FXD on my wrist every step of the way, I can attest to its qualities under the surface, as well (more on ...
Hodinkee
Plus a Master Collection model that highlights the best of Longines alongside a deeply limited Japanese-market Zenith El Primero.
Worn & Wound
A Week In Watches returns with a look at a plethora of new releases that include updates from Christopher Ward, Glashütte Original, Nomos, and Tissot. Everyone has a new dial color or case size, it would seem, but they all work well here, bringing new renditions to old favorites, and further dialing in already great platforms. The big news this week comes from Longines, who redesigned their HydroConquest family with a new collection of GMT watches. Unique colorways and a few odd details on the dial preserve some of that classic HydroConquest character, while showing some serious sings of maturity in the process. In other news, we’re about a year away from the 2024 summer Olympic games in Paris, and Omega is ready to kick things off with a new Seamaster 300 commemorating the games. Omega and the Olympics go way back, like way way back, so it’s no surprise to see Omega getting a head start on things with a new LE, and we suspect that this won’t be the last to do so. Finally, can you ever have too much of a good thing? Tissot doesn’t think so, and just keeps iterating on the wildly popular PRX range, most recently with new dial colors and even a fully gold plated example in their 35mm Powermatic 80 PRX line. It should come as no surprise that they work rather well. Catch more details on these watches in our full intro. Reminder that you can catch us again in 2 weeks for more watches, people, and news in episode 62 of A Week In Watches. The post A Week In Watches, Ep....
Time+Tide
This week was a little surprising with Breitling quietly releasing several models (including a limited edition) and a couple of independents who presented classically inspired timepieces. Is it a sign that unfortunately summer is coming to an end? Here are some of the best new releases from this past week. Norqain Neverest GMT Glacier 41mm … ContinuedThe post New releases from Breitling, Norqain, Oris and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Norqain Neverest Glacier returns with two rocky-faced references. The 41mm GMT model and 40mm three-hand model are decorated with rose gold running through their cracked surfaces. 10% of the sales will go to the Butterfly Help Project, housing and educating the families of sherpas who died on Mount Everest. As a brand focused on … ContinuedThe post Norqain’s new Neverest Glacier models have charitable intentions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Allow us to introduce you to the UNIMATIC Carbon Limited Editions For Hodinkee - two unique watches limited to 250 units each that take the form of the U4S and the U1S GMT, now reimagined in forged carbon fiber cases that are lighter and more hard-wea...
Time+Tide
Since their management overhaul became something of a fairytale success story, Parmigiani Fleurier operate under a keen eye from the wristwatch community. From brand confusion to elation, any release from their Tonda PF range is bound to become somewhat of a sensation. When they released their Rattrapante GMT last year, the notion of a perfectly … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Plus a Breitling for the car enthusiast, and what happens when Bauhaus does a GMT.
Worn & Wound
Nodus fans take note: a rare version of the Sector GMT is about to be sold at auction for a worthy cause, and you can bid on it until the auction closes tomorrow. This limited edition was created in partnership with RedBar’s Atlanta chapter, and features some distinctive details that make this version particularly rewarding for Atlanta residents, but it’s also just a nice looking execution of an already attractive watch, and we think it can be enjoyed just as easily north of the Mason-Dixon line. Or in Nodus’ hometown on the west coast. You get the idea. The dial is black with red accents, a nod to the colors of the Atlanta Falcons football franchise, and features an image of the Atlanta skyline on the caseback, along with the RedBar logo and limited edition number. This particular watch carries the “00/50” designation, and is the last remaining of the limited run (all 50 watches in the limited edition were claimed by Atlanta RedBar members when the watch was unveiled in April). The Sector GMT is a classically proportioned sports watch (it measures 38mm in diameter) filtered through the Nodus contemporary design language and point of view. Like other watches in the Sector collection, the GMT makes use of a multi piece dial with distinct layers, creating a unique sense of depth and calling attention to the finishing and materials Nodus is using. This collection has grown and matured a great deal in just a few years, with a total of six models spanning every vari...
Worn & Wound
We’re in the midst of a long Fourth of July weekend here in the US, which means summer has more than arrived, and if you weren’t already in full colorful dive watch mode, now’s the time to figure out what the poolside, cocktail sipping watch is going to be. Squale, with their new Master x Palombari del Comsubin diver with a bright blue dial, is a late entry in the ongoing summer watch sweepstakes. The watch combines a unique piece of Italian military heritage into its design, and represents a surprising first for the brand. It’s also likely that its impressive specs can handle time at the beach, the pool, waiting around at the airport, and a whole lot more this vacation season. The watch is based on Squale’s Master Marina Militare platform, relaunched in 2022 but with roots going back to the 1960s. The overall design here is 100% tool diver, with a simple, unfussy case, and a dial that’s similarly focused on the important stuff, namely legibility and providing plenty of lume via a sandwich dial construction. The seal on the dial at 6:00 is that of the Comsubin dive team, an elite segment of the Italian Navy that specializes in the most complex underwater operations. The bright blue shade used for the dial is both a Squale signature and an homage to the Comsubin uniform, which is a similar tone. Squale says that the Comsubin played a key role in the design of the watch, which is specced to handle just about anything they might encounter – members of the team...
![[VIDEO] Battle of the White GMTs: Grand Seiko SBGE285 & Rolex Explorer II 16570](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2023/05/P1011748-1.jpg)
Worn & Wound
There has never been a better time to be in the market for a GMT watch, with no shortage of great options at a wider range of prices than perhaps ever before. There is one watch that’s remained a pillar of the genre over the years, however, and that is the Explorer II reference 16570. It holds up just as well today as it did when it was introduced in the late ‘80s, and remains a favorite among enthusiasts for its sweet spot sizing, and a timeless design that seems to go with everything. But that’s a watch that’s been out of production for decades, so where is the modern incarnation of this ethos? We may have found a perfect candidate in the Grand Seiko SBGE285. Grand Seiko hasn’t exactly been at the center of the scruffy tool watch scene in the same way that 5 digit Rolex references have, but this SBGE285 offers a compelling case for Grand Seiko’s take on the genre with this modern tool-ish GMT. This is a watch that might look a little intimidating by the numbers, but offers a different experience on-wrist. It might not be as svelte as the Explorer II, but there’s plenty to admire here, from the stunning finishing on the hands and dial furniture, to the unorthodox case architecture, which are all executed to Grand Seiko’s high standards. Ultimately, these two watches offer very different experiences that reflect the two brands at their very best. That said, they do converge in a few surprising ways, which Kat and Blake discuss in this inside look at watches...
Hodinkee
A big new release of a smaller version of Longines' hit flyer GMT.
Teddy Baldassarre
The vintage-inspired GMT watch is now available in a new 39mm size, in four distinct colorways including one steel-and-gold version. If you’re like many people who’ve seen the Longines Spirit Zulu Time watch since its initial launch in 2022, you’ve probably found yourself intrigued with its clean, legible dial, sleek-looking bezel, and meticulously finished case, even if you realized afterward that you really weren’t sure what “Zulu Time” was. Good news: we’re here to explain everything you might want to know about the Longines Spirit Zulu Time. Even more good news: if you liked the first crop of watches but found them too large for your taste, Longines is now supplementing the original 42mm offerings with new 39mm versions. First, some background. As those with a background in either the armed forces or aviation (or both) likely know, “Zulu” is the radio transmission articulation for the letter “Z” (like “Alpha” for A, “Tango” for T, etc.) and the letter “Z” is used in military jargon to denote time based on the prime meridian in Greenwich, England, the longitudinal line that separates the Eastern and Western Hemispheres. Essentially, Zulu Time means the same thing as GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) or the more modern term, UTC (Universal Time Coordinated, albeit expressed in a more historically adventurous idiom, and a watch that displayed the time in this manner was particularly useful for early aviators before the rise of electronic guid...
Time+Tide
Grand Seiko is well-known for a wide array of dial expressions, faceted case geometries, handsome Zaratsu finishing, and, of course, their proprietary Spring Drive system. But as one of few truly vertically integrated manufactures, Grand Seiko does have one glaring gap in their catalogue: complications. Yes, Grand Seiko has previously presented GMT watches and even … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SLGC001 Tentagraph puts the evolution in Evolution 9 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Certina continues to be a deep-cut watch brand for us folks here in the United States, but for our friends across the Atlantic (and the watch nerds located stateside alike), the value oriented brand remains a fixture amongst the watch community. There’s plenty to enjoy from Certina’s catalog and since their return to the U.S. market in 2021, they’ve hit the ground running with successful releases that include the DS PH200M, the DS Action GMT and in my opinion, the best-kept-secret midsize diver out there with the DS Action Diver 38mm. Sure you’ll occasionally get a curveball from the brand with a dress watch or two, but Certina is at their best when they operate within the lane of their DS Action line. In a span of a couple of months, Certina has bolstered their bread-and-butter collection with the addition of two intriguing divers – a serious, blacked-out DS Action Diver 43mm and a proper midsized titanium offering with the DS Action Diver 38mm. The DS Action Diver is a straightforward, no-fuss diver solidified by traditional design, a “Diver’s Watch” designation meeting ISO 6425 standards and an 80-hour power reserve equipped automatic movement. What separates the new DS Action Diver 43mm from the rest of the line is its stealthy appearance. The stainless steel case is layered with a PVD coating, all around from the lug ends to the crown guard tips and caseback. From the photos provided, it seems that any light hitting the case falls flat, but the bezel...
SJX Watches
Having already debuted an oversized take on the ref. 765 AVI “Co-Pilot” of 1953, Breitling now introduces the Classic AVI Chronograph 42, a scaled-down version that pays homage to the vintage original. Unlike its bigger brother, the 46 mm Super AVI GMT that features a second time zone function, the Classic AVI is a no-frills watch with just the time and chronograph. The Classic AVI makes its debut with a range of regular-production models, each inspired by a historical fighter plane, alongside the limited-edition AVI ref. 765 1964 Re-Edition. Classic AVI Chronograph 42 Curtiss P-40 Warhawk Initial thoughts The Super AVI GMT is a vintage-inspired chronograph with an appealing design, but with the drawback of the 46 mm case – huge by even by modern standards. The introduction of a more compact version is welcome, even if this addition further expands Breitling’s extensive (and sometimes confusing) catalogue. With its smaller case, the Classic AVI has arguably better proportions than its bigger brother, with dimensions better suited to the vintage-inspired styling. And because it is equipped with a Valjoux movement (otherwise known as the Breitling Caliber 23), the Classic AVI is amongst the most affordable Breitling chronographs, adding to its appeal. The P-51 Mustang The P-51 Mustang is the standout among the Classic AVI line-up. It has classic pilot’s chronograph aesthetics with a black dial and faux-patina Arabic numerals that provide a nostalgic feel. But e...
Hodinkee
From a visit to his atelier to his daughter who's following in his footsteps, we rewind some of our favorite stories about the master watchmaker.
Hodinkee
Evolving the brand's original design to create an affordable, lightweight, and distinctive take on the GMT.
Hodinkee
The Professor of History at York University will examine the remarkable life of Peter J. Huffstead, Harlem's self-described "master clockmaker."
Worn & Wound
Yema has pulled inspiration from their vintage catalog from it comes two new watches that call back to some of their most iconic designs.Fresh in the shop are the Rallygraf Meca-Quartz and the Superman 500 GMT, each in several fun colors. Let’s take a closer look at these exciting new releases from the French brand with over seven decades of watchmaking experience. Yema has pulled inspiration from their vintage catalog from it comes two new watches that call back to some of their most iconic designs.Fresh in the shop are the Rallygraf Meca-Quartz and the Superman 500 GMT, each in several fun colors. Let’s take a closer look at these exciting new releases from the French brand with over seven decades of watchmaking experience. The post New Vintage-Inspired Releases from Yema – Now In The Windup Watch Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Revolution
Team Revolution discusses Grail Watch’s first-ever collaboration with master watchmaker and GPHG laureate Stefan Kudoke. We’re proud to present Grail Watch 8: Kudoke K2 ‘Starry Night’. Stefan Kudoke’s passion for handcrafting watches began at an early age when two skilled master craftsmen imbued in him an appreciation and love for these mechanical processes. Stefan would […]
SJX Watches
Arguably the master of movement decoration, Philippe Dufour is revered for the impeccable finishing of his wristwatches – along with a handful of pocket watches, including the Grande Sonnerie pocket watch that sold in 2021 at Philips for CHF2.33 million including fees. But the first timepieces Mr Dufour made never bore his name on the dial. They were a series of five grande sonnerie pocket watches created for Audemars Piguet (AP) that he began in the late 1970s and completed in 1988. The very first of the five, the Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch no. 1 – by Philippe Dufour for Audemars Piguet – will go under the hammer at Philips’ upcoming Geneva auction taking place on May 13 and 14, 2023. (Video courtesy of Phillips) Initial Thoughts Having slowly gone out of fashion starting in the early 2000s, pocket watches tend to go under the radar when set against comparable wristwatches. In 2021, Philippe Dufour’s own Grande Sonnerie wristwatch sold for more than double his grande sonnerie pocket watch – in the same auction. However, anyone who understands independent watchmaker and Mr Dufour’s work will appreciate the significance of this pocket watch. This not only predates the Philippe Dufour brand, but the series of five watches made for AP was the impetus for him to strike out on his own. Because of what he perceived as deeply disrespectful behaviour by AP executives, Mr Dufour vowed never again to make watches for others after completing the five watches for AP. ...
Worn & Wound
Seiko welcomed the Sharp Edge series back in 2020, and the watch has gone on to welcome some of our favorite Presage watches in the process, with last year’s GMT being a particular favorite. The broad, angular case with a distinctive fall off around the wrist is joined by the asanoha dial pattern to present a wholly unique experience within the Presage range. This week, Seiko welcomes a pair of new references to the Sharp Edge family, which open the dial to reveal a new 6R5J 3 day automatic movement within. The movement echoes the same updates we’ve seen rolled out across the 6R range, providing a small bump to the power reserve. The new Sharp Edge watches are indeed what you’d call ‘open heart’ designs, with an aperture directly over the balance wheel placed to the 9 o’clock side of the hand stack. It’s not quite that straightforward here, as there is a bridge layered over the view that recalls the very pattern seen on the dial, the asanoha, or ‘hemp leaf’ motif is rendered across the circular opening, adding a bit of visual continuity with the rest of the dial and presenting a slightly more interesting take on the open heart concept. Two dial colors are on offer here: a light option called shironeri (SBP415), which represents unbleached white silk; and a deep blue option called aitetsu (SPB417). The blue dial fades to darker tones at the dial’s perimeter, but both dials are rather dynamic thanks to the inset pattern offering plenty of surfaces...
Time+Tide
With the Northern Hemisphere summer approaching, Maurice Lacroix reinvents their Aikon line with the introduction of four new colourways of the Master Grand Date. The model debuted in 2021 with a blue dial and an Only Watch appearance, before being presented in a stealthier configuration the year after. These new releases take the best aspects … ContinuedThe post The new Maurice Lacroix AIKON Grand Date is emboldened with bright colours appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Coming up to Watches and Wonders, many were excited to see a new Rolex Milgauss model or an updated version of the one running since 2007. Rumours even circulated about an all-titanium Milgauss. Watches and Wonders ended, brand new Rolex models came, and the Milgauss disappeared from the brand’s website without a trace. The Yacht-Master … ContinuedThe post Say goodbye to the Rolex Milgauss appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Any other year, the titanium Yacht-Master 42 would steal the show for Rolex. This year, the brand has so many crazy releases that the YM flies under the radar. Here's why it still matters.
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