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Quill & Pad
The drama of Breguet's La Tradition lay – and continues to lie – in its stylistically vintage appearance coupled with a movement finished using historical techniques and the extreme visibility of the mechanical components from the dial side. Here Elizabeth Doerr looks at two new models for 2020 that are bound to make you a fan of the style.
SJX Watches
Helmed by Pascal Raffy, Bovet is a small and independent brand that excels in timepieces that are ornate, original and eccentric – and often highly complicated. The modern-day philosophy of the brand echoes the brand’s origins in the 19th century when it was a leading purveyor of pocket watches to the Chinese market. This year, Bovet furthers its distinctive expression of watchmaking with the Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter Two. Features an imposing but transparent sapphire case with a sloped, “writing desk” profile, the watch is equipped with a host of complications, from a flying tourbillon to a three-dimensional moon phase. And despite the name, Brainstorm Chapter Two is not just a sequel to the Brainstorm Chapter One, but is more like a newly-conceived watch. Initial thoughts Immediately eye-catching, the sapphire case has a very unconventional inclined shape. Introduced in 2016, the form takes after the traditional sloped-top writing desk and is now a signature Bovet design. While transparent sapphire cases are not new – they are in fact commonplace today with watches with several launched this year, including the Hublot Big Bang Unico Sapphire and the Chanel J12 X-Ray – the Bovet case is unusual in form. It is not entirely sapphire, however, and instead made up of a titanium frame of the case back and lugs, with the sapphire case middle and front mounted on the frame. The titanium case back and its pins that secure the sapphire case middle Though fashi...
Time+Tide
Well, there it is. Our home state of Victoria records its highest-ever day of coronavirus cases, and lockdown is reimposed. I guess it’s back to Rotten Tomatoes to suss out a new binging schedule. On a serious note, it’s a really difficult time for many Aussies, and we would appreciate your thoughts and prayers (maybe … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Bond watches, Mido Ocean Stars and more lockdown appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
From the Omega Seamaster to the Rolex Submariner, here's a complete list of watches James Bond has worn on the silver screen.The post UPDATED: The complete list of watches James Bond wore on-screen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
Earlier this month, Tudor released to the world their latest Black Bay creation; the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight ‘Navy Blue’ (Ref 79030B-0001). We covered this much anticipated timepiece briefly upon its release, but now, we will take an in-depth look into what this watch is really about. For the newcomers to the world of horology, you might be asking, why is there such an aura around the Black Bay Fifty-Eight that draws people in? To answer this, we need to go back into Tudor’s history with dive watches and how the Black Bay Fifty-Eight first came about. Tudor released its first dive watch in 1954, which would incidentally set the brand on a new path to becoming iconic for dive watches. The first Tudor that was released was the Oyster Price Submariner reference 7922. This model was designed with some substantial criteria which included having exceptional durability, reliability, precision and waterproofness, all the while still being moderately affordable. The Oyster Price Submariner reference 7922 after its release became a favourite in the watch industry and positioned itself as an instrument of choice for professionals. Tudor’s dive watches over the next 66 years would evolve with new technologies and materials emerging, updating the movements along the way as well. Back in 2012, Tudor first launched the Black Bay collection, which is essentially the modern interpretation of the the brand’s iconic Submariner style design. The original Oyster Price Submari...
Time+Tide
Adapt or die. You either get with these troubled times, or consign yourself to the pages of history. For watchmakers and retailers alike, or really anyone in the world of horology, this sentiment has never been more real or more confronting. COVID-19 poses a threat to the luxury watch industry that may dwarf even the … ContinuedThe post NEWS: Hublot launch an ecommerce site with a big bang, huge number of references available for purchase now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Earlier this week, Kanye West announced that he was going to run for President of the United States. That’s right, the 43-year-old rapper and streetwear designer married to Kim Kardashian says he will run in this year’s election that is set to play out in November. While it’s certainly a late announcement, and it isn’t … ContinuedThe post Kanye West is running for US President, here are 5 of his watches you might spot on the campaign trail appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Blancpain releases the new Bathyscaphe Mokarran Limited Edition: a special watch dedicated to protecting the great hammerhead shark.
Time+Tide
Recently, a reader from the Land of the Free dropped us a line asking if we could help with a conundrum he’d been having. You see, this lovely fellow and his wife are soon to celebrate their 20th wedding anniversary, and he wants to purchase a matching his and hers set of timepieces to mark … ContinuedThe post His & Hers: 4 of the best couples watches money can buy, including Audemars Piguet, Omega and TAG Heuer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Taking place on July 10, The Hong Kong Watch Auction: X is the one of the first watch auctions in Hong Kong in 2020, a sign of the much-delayed auction calendar due to the pandemic. But the Phillips catalogue is still 269 lots strong, with a little bit of everything. We took a look at some of the notable complicated watches last week, including the magnificent A. Lange & Söhne Tourbograph that’s a strong value buy in uber-complications. Now, we’ll take a look at some of the timepieces by independent watchmakers as well as a handful of interesting, esoteric, and well-priced watches. You can find the rest of the catalogue here. Lot 806 – Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk II Pro “Challenger of Record” This sits squarely in the category of weird-but-cool watches. Extremely large at 44 mm, with massive lugs and an even larger crown guard, the Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk II Pro “Challenger of Record” is a dive watch rated to 3,000 m – three-thousand metres, or 9,800 feet – with a sharply finished, tourbillon-equipped movement. The combination is paradoxical, and slightly silly, but the watch has a peculiar charm, no doubt helped by its affordability (with a low estimate a little under US$20,000). Made in 2006, a time when diving tourbillons were fashionable and when Girard-Perregaux was still a family-run firm owned by the Macalusos – the certificate for the watch is signed by the late Luigi “Gino” Macaluso – the Sea Hawk tourbillon was a limited edition of 32 w...
SJX Watches
Founded only a decade ago, Ressence has already left an indelible impression on watchmaking. Lauded for a design philosophy that is centred on legibility, wearability and intuitive function, the brand’s unusual perspective is thanks to its founder Benoît Mintiens, an industrial designer by profession. To mark its 10th year, Ressence has debuted the Type 1 Slim X, the first of four watches in the commemorative Collection X – “X” being a Roman “10”. Limited to 40 watches, the new watch is essentially identical to the standard Type 1 Slim, but face-lifted with an intriguing dial in a single shade of olive green but finished with contrasting surfaces to achieve a two-tone effect. The remaining Collection X watches will be dressed in a similar shade of green. Initial thoughts I have long been fascinated by Ressence and its watches. The first time I laid eyes on a Ressence, I assumed that it was just an electronic watch with a high-pixel density display; the dial on it was truly flat. When I found out what it was – the effect was due to the oil-filled time display chamber – surprise was an understatement. They are in a class of their own in terms of design, and are, in fact, great examples of “postmodern” mechanical watchmaking. The dark olive dial on the anniversary Type 1 Slim is a first for the brand. The colour is attractive but not as widely used as I would like, with the exception of military-style timepieces, which this is definitely not. To see i...
Time+Tide
If you’ve ever dropped into the Time+Tide HQ in Melbourne to pick up a copy of NOW Magazine or try on a DOXA, chances are that you were greeted by the effervescently charming Khando. She has been a member of the team since the second half of last year, and previously worked in the fashion … ContinuedThe post EVERY WATCH TELLS A STORY: Khando’s Seiko SRPC91K is something borrowed and something blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
A fitting tribute to an incredible watchmaker.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: When people talk about the Grand Seiko Snowflake as being one watch, they are in fact forgoing the many and varied shades of snow that Grand Seiko has showered us with since the OG became almost a pillar in itself. Here, we choose a Snowflake for every season, to show the nuance and … ContinuedThe post Which Grand Seiko Snowflake is right for you? Four models that show the stunning dial’s diversity appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
So, remember how TAG Heuer pretty much stopped the show at LVMH’s Dubai Watch Week at the start of this year with their stunning Carrera 160 Years Silver? Remember how much you, and pretty much every other person in our community, immediately wanted one, only to be told that all 1860 examples were sold out? Well, … ContinuedThe post Attention all! You can preorder TAG Heuer’s 3 recent limited editions online right now, including Fragment Design and Montreal 160th appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Longines adds two 1940s-inspired models to its Heritage collection that tug at heartstrings with their mid-century charm.
SJX Watches
German independent watchmaker had a hit when it debuted the Kudoke 2 last year. Combining hand-engraved decor with an affordable price tag, the watch was well received by enthusiasts while also enjoying critical acclaim, winning the Petite Aiguille – the category for watches under 10,000 Swiss francs – at the 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). The Kudoke 2 Nocturne is a limited edition variant of the standard model in a run of only 20 pieces, a nod to the 20th year of this century. While the standard version features a silver-and-gold palette, the Nocturne is dressed in shades of grey, both on the dial and movement. Initial thoughts The Kudoke 2 was one of last year’s more compelling watches for me. Not only is it priced well, but the watch has a refined yet German aesthetic that’s pleasing. The watch is clean, with no superfluous elements to distract from its charming simplicity, yet equipped with several attractive classical details. And the Nocturne has a slightly more modern look than the original, despite having the same design. The movement, developed with the help of Habring2, has a unique style and excellent finish, especially considering the price of €8,665, or a little under US$10,000, which is the same price as standard version. With artful hand engraving and an original movement, the watch screams value proposition. A new face Having an identical design as the standard model, the Nocturne retains the clean, symmetrical look of the...
Quill & Pad
Stefan Kudoke’s time has arrived. All the long years of learning, obsessing, wondering, and hard work are now paying off for the German watchmaker and engraver, whose gorgeous Kudoke 2 won the Petite Aiguille award at the 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). And Elizabeth Doerr finds the brand-new Kudoke 2 Nocturne just as enchanting; she explains why here.
Time+Tide
Longines has had quite the 2020. First came the excellent Khaki Green addition to the HydroConquest collection, and then we scored an entirely new and very exciting collection in the Longines Spirit. And now, to round out something new and something updated, comes something from the past – but, we think you’ll agree, very much … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Jay Gatsby of the class of 2020 is in the (Art Deco) house, meet the Longines Heritage Classic ‘Tuxedo’ and ‘Tuxedo Chronograph’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Rebellion takes on many forms – like jazz music, which at one time represented an extreme deviation from musical tables and conventional styles of music, perhaps as much or even more so than rock and roll. What timekeepers did these musical giants prefer to wear? And which brands pay tribute to them today?
Time+Tide
Well, one of 2020’s worst-kept secrets is out of the bag – Tudor has gone and released a brand new iteration of the best watch it makes. Ladies and gents, introducing the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Ref.M79030b-0001. Now, we’ll skip all the conjecture and polarisation that this watch has already managed to conjure up in … ContinuedThe post What kind of blue is the new Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight actually? 4 side-by-side shots with the Pelagos, Patek, Lange and more… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
When it comes to tool watches, there are few brands out there as dedicated to instrument aesthetics as Bell & Ross. Although they may lack centuries of heritage, starting off in the early ’90s with Sinn making their watches, they’ve endeavoured not to be left behind in the everlasting race for technological advancement in watchmaking. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The B&R; BR03-92 DIVER FULL LUM has a proper party trick when the lights go out appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
There’s very little that hasn’t been done in watchmaking. That’s part of what makes vintage-inspired new releases so popular among watch enthusiasts, especially for diving styles. Mido’s Ocean Star range has sat in this bracket, earning a good reputation for solidly built and classically handsome dive watches for their affordable cost; however, they toed the … ContinuedThe post The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 brings the colour we all need in a dark year at a budget-friendly price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Having moved house last year, I finally got around to collecting the last remaining items from our storage facility last weekend. All that was left was a forlorn collection of those random bits and pieces that you barely use, but can’t quite stomach throwing out. There was a box of bedraggled Christmas decorations, a tennis … ContinuedThe post OPINION: Will COVID hammer the final nail into the coffin of the dress watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Richard Mille adds a sixth chapter to their widely beloved family of chronographs with the RM 11-05 Automatic Flyback Chronograph GMT that has its bezel made of Cermet
SJX Watches
Hailing from Ireland’s most famous watchmaking family, John McGonigle is best known for being one half of the two brothers behind McGonigle Watches (and another brother is the chief instructor at the world-class watch school in Cambodia). Having decided to strike out on his own last year – an amicable parting resulting from logistical challenges of working with his brother who is based in Switzerland – Mr McGonigle has just launched his own brand, Oileán, Gaelic for “island”, a nod to his home of Ireland. Pronounced “ill-awn”, the brand is making its debut with the Oileán H-B1, a triple-calendar chronograph powered by a new-old-stock Valjoux 88 movement. John McGonigle Initial thoughts Well regarded by collectors and peers, Mr McGonigle’s first watch under his new brand has a vintage movement inside a titanium case. It’s a manageable 40 mm in diameter, but slightly thick at 14.2 mm high, an inevitable consequence of the Valjoux 88. While the Valjoux 88 is not novel – it was widely used in the past – the calibre has been reworked a high standard. That includes several bridges and steel parts made from scratch, as well as hand finishing of all components. Because it is a triple-calendar chronograph “I’ve tried to apply the same rigour to this watch as I used to for the high complications I worked on in the past,” says Mr McGonigle. Going by Mr McGonigle’s past work it is no doubt done very well. The look is modern – the dial is smoked sa...
SJX Watches
When it was launched in 2019, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet became the most-talked-about new releases of the year, and also of the most panned, largely for the way it was hyped before launch and the perceived plainness of the design. But Audemars Piguet is undeterred and affirmed its commitment to the new collection with the launch of a face-lifted Code 11.59 Selfwinding and Chronograph, featuring new dials with a smoked, graduated-colour finish, along with a variant in a two-colour gold case. The new Code 11.59 Selfwinding Initial thoughts The most frequent criticism against the Code 11.59 had to do with the rather bland dials of the base models. In contrast, the pricey, complicated models were the standouts of the collection, having fired enamel dials with a smoked finish (for the minute repeater and the flying tourbillon) or aventurine glass (for the perpetual calendar). Audemars Piguet doubtlessly realised the appeal of the smoked enamel dial, and followed up with the Code 11.59 Bolshoi Limited Edition, which featured the same graduated, dark blue dial in enamel, but on a time-only watch. The downside of the enamel dial on the base model is a massive price premium of over 55%, or a bit over US$14,000. Evidence that Audemars Piguet is receptive to feedback, the new dials for the Code 11.59 show how a slight tweak can completely change the visual impact of a watch. It’s highly probable that if the Code 11.59 had been launched with smoked dials in the first plac...
Time+Tide
If we’re honest with ourselves, luxury sports watches aren’t actually designed to be used during sport. Sure, they are more robust than your typical dress watch, but the most adventurous situation they are designed to find themselves in might be diving into glittering Capri waters from the deck of a sailboat, maybe suffering a small … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Connected Golf Edition can actually improve your golf game appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The new Seiko 5 SRPE51 is not a dive watch. Its whole raison d’être is to move away from that, to offer something new.
SJX Watches
Laurent Ferrier is 10 years old, and to make the occasion the brand is launching the Classic Origin Opaline, a time-only, hand-wound watch with a slim, titanium case. In many ways, the new watch is a minimalist take on the standard Laurent Ferrier time-only watch – the style is beautiful, restrained, and typical of the brand, with a new(ish) and significantly simpler movement inside, allowing for a fairly affordable price. Initial thoughts The Classic Origin Opaline has the much-loved Laurent Ferrier look – fluid lines and elegant forms on the case and dial. And in the usual manner of the brand, the dial is unadorned but executed with fine materials – the hands and hour indices are solid white gold. The movement, however, falls a bit short. Laurent Ferrier’s earliest movements – the LF229.01 of the Galet Micro-Rotor and the LF619.01 of the Galet Tourbillon – were best-in-class calibres that excelled in construction, finishing, and details, which unfortunately set a very high bar. But since the company entered a prolonged period of management turmoil, its movements have lost the magic. The quality is still good, but they are no longer outstanding. The LF116.01 in the new Classic Origin Opaline is essentially a variant of the movement in the annual calendar and also found in the Bridge One with a reshaped base plate and bridges. It has large bridges with simple silhouettes, as well as solid, clean finishing. Granted, a handful of the traditional Laurent Ferrier f...
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