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Results for Balance Wheel

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Balance Wheel

The oscillating wheel at the heart of every mechanical watch.

De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon: Let There Be (Blue) Light! Quill & Pad
De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Sep 4, 2020

De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon: Let There Be (Blue) Light!

The effect of the blue sapphire crystal bridge on the De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon is astonishing. It is simultaneously light, airy, and (importantly) blue. It reflects the light back in the friendliest of ways. It is De Bethune blue, but it is also translucent to reveal the layers below it. The layering makes it feel sculptural, unique, and complicated without becoming busy. And that is just one component. Find out what makes up the rest of this incredible timepiece here.

Hands-On: De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels Blue “The Hour Glass” SJX Watches
De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels Blue Jul 24, 2019

Hands-On: De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels Blue “The Hour Glass”

De Bethune is the latest amongst a number of watchmakers to take the covers off a commemorative edition to mark the 40th anniversary of Singapore watch retail powerhouse The Hour Glass. For the occasion, De Bethune has put together a variant of its signature DB28 with sprung lugs that’s entirely clad in brilliant, blued titanium. First unveiled in polished titanium in 2018, the Steel Wheels is essentially a DB28 wearing a little less. A partially open-worked dial – which is actually the delta-shaped barrel bridge – reveals its pair of skeletonised barrels and gears. While the original Steel Wheels captures the essence of De Bethune, combining its trademark design with the brand’s fundamental technical innovations, it was lacking a generous dose of blued titanium, a gorgeous, heat-treated alloy that is synonymous with the brand. Colour consistency That has now been rectified with the DB28 Steel Wheels Blue, arguably the purest – and bluest – distillation of the brand’s core values and technical achievements. It features an intense, mirror-polished, blued titanium case and dial that form a striking contrast against the exposed inner mechanics. Though blued titanium is also used by other brands today, De Bethune was amongst the first to mirror-polish its titanium cases and more crucially, started using heat treatment to blue titanium way back in 2006. An example of an early De Bethune using blued titanium, a DB25L from 2010 with a blued dial...

History, “Sprezzatura,” and Finding Balance: A Conversation with Parmigiani Fleurier CEO Guido Terreni Worn & Wound
Parmigiani Fleurier CEO Guido Terreni Writing Jun 20, 2024

History, “Sprezzatura,” and Finding Balance: A Conversation with Parmigiani Fleurier CEO Guido Terreni

Writing about watches is, often, an exercise in confirming and combatting preconceived ideas. Snap judgments are easy to form without thinking them through, and early opinions can be hard to shake, so the biggest challenges for anyone in this industry are parsing one’s own opinions, and learning how to look past them to evaluate the watches that come across our desks fairly. Most watches only require confronting this challenge in a cursory sense, but the best watches force you to face it head-on. Like many watches in the latter category, the new Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Chronograph required me to do some serious thinking. Thankfully, I had the opportunity to sit down with Guido Terreni, the CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier, to talk about the brand, their watches, and why I can’t get Parmigiani Fleurier off my mind. Guido Terreni, Parmigiani Fleurier CEO Parmigiani Fleurier has spent much of the last few years absolutely knocking the proverbial ball out of the park. Since Terreni’s hiring in 2021, the brand’s been on a heater, releasing hit after hit, and building a new identity almost from scratch, rebuilding and simplifying the collection to create a new identity for the nearly 30-year-old brand. “When I joined the company, I understood that the brand needed direction and style, and what was in the pipeline was not building the brand as I thought it should. So I blocked everything and we started working from scratch on a white piece of paper - not perfectl...

A Watchmaker’s Technical Look at the Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Fire: A Dual-Balance Watch with a Difference - Reprise Quill & Pad
Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Fire Dec 12, 2023

A Watchmaker’s Technical Look at the Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Fire: A Dual-Balance Watch with a Difference - Reprise

The Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Fire has captivated everybody with the mesmerizing appearance of its twin balances and the unusual, long, sinuous, grey spring gently oscillating along the middle of the watch. 'The Horological Journal' editor and watchmaker Justin Koullapis asks the question, "Does it live up to the hyperbole?"

Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame 2012: A Complete Champagne with Great Balance and Length - Reprise Quill & Pad
Sep 26, 2023

Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame 2012: A Complete Champagne with Great Balance and Length - Reprise

For Ken Gargett, the Veuve Clicquot 2012 La Grande Dame is a special champagne. It walks the tightrope between dense and coiled power with delicacy, finesse, and elegance. Great intensity, finally balanced acidity, early complexity, and it is still wonderfully youthful with a long future ahead of it. But what interesting story lies behind this fantastic champagne?

Farer Finds the Balance Between Simplicity and Size with the Limited Edition Palmer GMT Worn & Wound
Farer Finds Jul 6, 2023

Farer Finds the Balance Between Simplicity and Size with the Limited Edition Palmer GMT

The latest addition to Farer’s lineup of GMT watches is a balancing act between simplicity and the brand’s signature use of vibrant colors and bold accents. Farer is no stranger to dynamic dial colors, peculiar color combinations and large numeral displays that have separated Farer amongst the pack with their own distinguishable design language. It’s not just for looks either as their dial aesthetics account for prime legibility, both in daylight and low light situations thanks to the heavy dose of lume usage they’re notorious for, as well. It’s always an intriguing release when Farer releases a white dial because it allows the brand to explore minimal ways to apply color without sacrificing the Farer panache. With this new limited edition release, the Farer Palmer GMT hits the sweet spot in both simplicity and case size making it their most appealing GMT yet. The Palmer GMT doesn’t just use a standard tone of white for the dial; we are talking about Farer after all. Farer is calling the Palmer dial color “pearlescent opaline” which gives the dial’s surface a slightly creamier tinge. Each hour marker is raised from the dial thanks to the block of SuperLuminova that makes up its construction and is hit with a thick application of black paint on its top surface. This in combination with the black outlining of the handset maximizes legibility against the white, excuse me, pearlescent opaline dial. The use of numerals are much more subdued than were used to w...

Hands-On With The Well-Balanced Lebond Souto Moura Fratello
Jul 22, 2024

Hands-On With The Well-Balanced Lebond Souto Moura

A little over a year ago, Lebond Watches unveiled its inaugural Siza model to the public. The Barcelonian brand works with famous architects to create each one’s take on a watch. After world-famous architect Álvaro Siza was the first to do so, the brand’s second effort debuted earlier this year. This time, Lebond founder Asier […] Visit Hands-On With The Well-Balanced Lebond Souto Moura to read the full article.

VIDEO: Oh, hello there Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 in Green, looking sharp in the metal Time+Tide
Raymond Weil Sep 7, 2020

VIDEO: Oh, hello there Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 in Green, looking sharp in the metal

Well, the enthusiastic comments on the video, the site post and the socials have confirmed it – this new Raymond Weil Freelancer in a pitch perfect olive green, with that eye-catching exposed balance well and truly have your attention. Which is why we thought we’d upgrade the Hands-On review and bring it to you in … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Oh, hello there Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 in Green, looking sharp in the metal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

First Look - Raymond Weil Unveils “The Fifty” with a Restored Valjoux Movement Monochrome
Casio n Mar 31, 2026

First Look - Raymond Weil Unveils “The Fifty” with a Restored Valjoux Movement

Coming up for its 50th anniversary, Raymond Weil marks the occasion with The Fifty, a handsome chronograph powered by a restored Valjoux 23-6 column-wheel chronograph from 1976, its year of birth. Donning a neo-vintage sector dial, inspired by the Millesime Small Seconds and the Millesime Chronograph, this accomplished limited edition is poised to captivate a […]

The Raymond Weil Millesime is Now 35 mm SJX Watches
Raymond Weil Sep 26, 2024

The Raymond Weil Millesime is Now 35 mm

Essentially smaller versions of the preceding models, the Millesime Central Seconds and Millesime Moon Phase in 35 mm are the latest additions to Raymond Weil’s successful line of vintage-inspired watches. Debuting with five different variants, the new Millesime models retain the aesthetic that made the earlier versions popular: a contemporary interpretation of “sector” dial watches of the early 20th century. Initial thoughts Regarded as a “mall watch” brand for years – but nonetheless a profitable business of decent scale – Raymond Weil hadn’t been on the radar of most watch enthusiasts for some time. So when the Millesime won the award for watches under CHF3,000 at last year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), many of us were surprised. The Millesime, however, is more than a “mall watch”. It has good proportions with a “sector” dial that is well-balanced, and underneath is a no-frills, reliable Sellita movement. It is an affordable watch and has the build quality to match, but that is a fact rather than a criticism. Priced between US$1,650 and US$2,575 depending on the model, the 35 mm Millesime remains good value. It brings the “sector” dial-look to someone who wants a smaller watch. Vintage-inspired aesthetics The new Millesime takes after the original model, which was just under 40 mm. The case is nearly identical in design, a three-part affair with a flat bezel, large, fluted crown, and “glass box” sapphire crystal that ...

Raymond Weil’s Expanded Millesime Collection Worn & Wound
Raymond Weil Apr 18, 2024

Raymond Weil’s Expanded Millesime Collection

If you had told me a few weeks ago that one of the brands I’d feel best about coming out of Watches & Wonders 2024 would be Raymond Weil, I’d probably have been pretty confused, because at that point I don’t think I even had a meeting set up with the brand, and their attendance at the show was not even on my radar. But Watches & Wonders, as ever, has surprises in store for everyone. And sometimes you wind up taking an unexpected appointment with a brand you frankly don’t really know much about or have paid much attention to over the years, and it completely wins you over. Raymond Weil, dollar for dollar and watch for watch, had one of the most impressive showings at this year’s Watches & Wonders, and they took me completely off guard.  Worn & Wound has covered Raymond Weil sporadically over the course of our website’s existence. CEO Elie Bernheim came on the podcast in 2017, and there have been a handful of new releases written about and reviews filed, but for the most part Raymond Weil has simply not appeared in these pages. Why is that? Well, for much of the brand’s history, they just haven’t caught the eye of the enthusiast. Raymond Weil has always positioned itself as a mass market brand making affordable watches for everyday people, not collectors or connoisseurs, necessarily. There’s nothing at all wrong with that, of course, it was just never really our wheelhouse.    View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Zach Kazan (@zkazan) But the b...

Insight: Rolex Land-Dweller Cal. 7135, Patents and Innovation Explained SJX Watches
Rolex Land-Dweller Cal 7135 Patents Mar 31, 2025

Insight: Rolex Land-Dweller Cal. 7135, Patents and Innovation Explained

Rolex has entered uncharted territory with the Land-Dweller, arguably the most advanced and radical creation from a hitherto conservative brand. The Land-Dweller is significant, perhaps even game changing, not because of the integrated bracelet or patented solid lume, but because of the cal. 7135, a new calibre with an all-new double-wheel escapement known as Dynapulse and a ceramic balance staff. (This story details the technical advances in the movement; for a review of the watch, check out the accompanying story.) The Land-Dweller 40 mm in platinum The fundamentals Why is it significant, or even game changing? The cal. 7135 is the first in-house, serial production Rolex movement that is high frequency, beating at 5 Hz or 36,000 beats per hour. All things being equal, a higher frequency promises superior timekeeping. Despite the higher frequency, the cal. 7135 still has a 66-hour power reserve. That’s thanks in part to the Dynapulse escapement which is 30% more efficient than a conventional Swiss lever escapement, while occupying essentially the same volume of space. The balance assembly of the cal. 7135 Dynapulse is one of several innovations that make the cal. 7135 a landmark, especially since it will be produced at scale. While Rolex has traditionally been associated with incremental innovation, the cal. 7135 is a revolution. The Land-Dweller is the subject of 32 filed patents, 18 of which are unique to the watch. Moreover, 16 of the patents unique to the watch are ...

The Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon Blue & Gold offers exemplary in-house machined mastery Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon Blue & Feb 24, 2023

The Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon Blue & Gold offers exemplary in-house machined mastery

Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon Blue & Gold’s faceted case is inspired by the lines of stealth aircraft design 45mm in diameter, 18K rose gold and PVD blue titanium case. Flying Tourbillon. Hours and minutes. Escapement wheel, anchor and balance spring in silicium. When delving into the romanticism of traditional high-end watchmaking, we often discuss hand-craftsmanship. But, … ContinuedThe post The Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon Blue & Gold offers exemplary in-house machined mastery appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.