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The COMEX Submariner Story Rolex

French saturation-diving company COMEX (1961) and Rolex partnership 1967 onward. Drove the joint Rolex/Doxa invention of the Helium Escape Valve.

Rolls Royce and Bovet team up on luxury dashboard detailing for $37m convertible Time+Tide
Bovet Jun 12, 2021

Rolls Royce and Bovet team up on luxury dashboard detailing for $37m convertible

A couple of weeks ago, Rolls Royce announced a $37m four-seat convertible that would be almost entirely bespoke. Known as the Boat Tail, the car was said to have been dreamed up by one of Rolls Royce’s most important clients who was excited by the possibility of commissioning something truly magnificent with the manufacturer. The … ContinuedThe post Rolls Royce and Bovet team up on luxury dashboard detailing for $37m convertible appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS ON: The Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection – Japanese dial mastery inspired by nature Time+Tide
Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection – Jun 11, 2021

HANDS ON: The Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection – Japanese dial mastery inspired by nature

As you might know, I am a bit of a dial fetishist, so when faced with a new limited collection from Grand Seiko, the risk is always there – that fear of repeating myself or getting so carried away that I overreach and baffle you with new adjectives that I’ve accidentally made up in an … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection – Japanese dial mastery inspired by nature appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Scientists Install Weather Station Atop Dormant Volcano (While Wearing a Rolex) SJX Watches
Rolex Jun 9, 2021

Scientists Install Weather Station Atop Dormant Volcano (While Wearing a Rolex)

Amongst the projects to tackle climate change that’s being supported by Rolex was the successful scientific expedition to Tupungato, a dormant volcano that’s one of the highest mountains in Americas that sits on the border of Chile and Argentina. Led by National Geographic and backed by the Chilean government, the expedition team embarked on a 15-day trek up Tupungato in early April to install a weather station just below the summit – 6,505 m above sea level – that’s the highest weather installation in the Southern and Western Hemispheres. The purpose of the expedition was, of course, not to explore the uncharted; such endeavours had their heyday in the postwar era, with Rolex keeping time for many of them. Instead the watchmaker supports scientists and conservationists on expeditions that aid understanding of climate change and its effects – all of which are part of the Perpetual Planet initative. Tupungato National Geographic A pillar of Perpetual Planet is Rolex’s partnership with National Geographic, the iconic, yellow-bordered magazine of the National Geographic Society. The partnership seeks to understand and address the impact of climate change, through expeditions and field research that harness data taken at crucial locations that are often harsh and inaccessible. The partnership’s first expedition took place in 2019, when a team travelled up Mount Everest to set up the highest-altitude weather station in the world – 8,430 m above sea level ...

Why I Bought It: Patek Philippe Reference 2526 ‘Gobbi Milano’ – Reprise Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Reference 2526 ‘Gobbi Milano’ Jun 6, 2021

Why I Bought It: Patek Philippe Reference 2526 ‘Gobbi Milano’ – Reprise

A good friend of GaryG's owns a cream-dialed Reference 2526, and Gary has often admired it over the years but hadn’t really understood the role that the 2526 plays in Patek Philippe’s history until talking with him and other watch pals and doing some late-night online research. Read on to learn why he bought this special "Gobbi Milano" edition from 1954 in an exciting spur of a moment.

Seiko Introduces the Gradient Blue “Tuna” 1000 m Diver SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces Jun 4, 2021

Seiko Introduces the Gradient Blue “Tuna” 1000 m Diver

One of Seiko’s pioneering dive watches, the “Tuna” ref. 6159-7010 was launched in 1975 as an automatic, titanium-case diver with the greatest depth rating Seiko could muster at the time, an impressive 600 m. And in 1986, Seiko upped its game with the 1000 m “Golden Tuna” ref. 7C46-7009/7010, a quartz watch that got its nickname from the gold-coated titanium inner case. With this year being the 35th anniversary of the “Golden Tuna” 1000 m, Seiko has announced a commemorative model that’s an essentially a dressed up version of the vintage original. The Seiko Prospex 1986 Quartz Diver’s 35th Anniversary Limited Edition retains the iconic shrouded case in titanium and ceramic and the same, exceptionally robust quartz movement found in the original. The key design feature of the anniversary model, however, is the gradient blue dial that’s dark blue on the upper half of the dial and fades downwards into black, evoking the depths of the sea. At the same time, the gilded details of the original have been reduced, leaving the gold plating for just screws that secure the shroud as well as the buckle. Initial thoughts The “Tuna” – in all its myriad variations – is an attractive, both for its distinctive style and its legit professional-diver heritage. More notable is the fact that the most basic “Tuna” starts at just a few hundred dollars – though the entry-level models are not true dive instruments – making the design relatively wallet-friendl...

Breaking News: Watches & Wonders Geneva to Return in Physical Format SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Rolex Jun 3, 2021

Breaking News: Watches & Wonders Geneva to Return in Physical Format

Even before the pandemic took hold, the last couple of years have been chaotic for Switzerland’s major watch fairs, with many an unexpected turn of events before COVID-19 put an end to the physical event in 2020. But now it appears the world is back on track, with Watches & Wonders (W&W;) slated to take place at end-March 2022 – as a physical event in its traditional Palexpo venue. The return of W&W;, now Switzerland’s only large-scale watch fair, feels long overdue. Arguably the saga began in 2018 when watchmaking giant Swatch Group exited Baselworld, then still the largest jewellery and watch fair in the world. Its departure triggered a chain reaction that would eventually prove fatal for Baselworld. Stalwart exhibitors including Patek Philippe, Rolex, and Chanel pulled out of Baselworld, sealing the event’s fate – and resulting in a small kerfuffle over exhibition-fee refunds. The brands departed Baselworld to join the fair in Geneva, then still known as SIHH. It was renamed W&W; to welcome the new exhibitors – and ran headlong into a major public-health crisis. Only one physical watch fair took place in Switzerland in 2020, albeit it on a small scale. It was only in China that a full-scale W&W; did happen, twice no less, demonstrating the frenzied demand for luxury watches there. A scene from SIHH 2019, the last time a full-scale watch fair happened in Switzerland After a two-year hiatus, W&W; till take place from March 30 to April 5, 2022, at Palexpo, the con...

De Bethune Debuts Contemporary Chiaroscuro on Titanium SJX Watches
De Bethune Debuts Contemporary Chiaroscuro Jun 3, 2021

De Bethune Debuts Contemporary Chiaroscuro on Titanium

Resembling an alien seashell, the Dream Watch 5 is De Bethune’s most unusual case and unquestionably its most artistic creation. While the model started out as a pared-back affair entirely in polished titanium, the DW5 has since evolved into a canvas for decoration like over-the-top, dancing-skeleton engraving. The DW5 Empreinte sits in between the two aesthetic extremes. Clad in deep, dark colours, the case is inlaid with a subtle, organic pattern that’s hard to describe. The distinctive colours and pattern were conceived by Clara Martin, who won the 2019 prize in the annual contest sponsored by De Bethune that’s open to masters students at the University of Art and Design Lausanne, better known by its French acronym ECAL. Ms Martin’s vision was realised by De Bethune cofounder Denis Flageollet, a talented watchmaker and self-taught metallurgist, as well as Michèle Rothen, the brand’s go-to engraver. Denis Flageollet and Clara Martin Initial thoughts De Bethune’s avant-garde in both style and watchmaking – an attractive combination that leaves the watchmaker with few peers. But even so, the DW5 still manages to stand out from the brand’s other offerings, as it is arguably a sculpture first and a timepiece second. The fluid, organic case is three-dimensional and gorgeous – and even more incredible when executed in the right material and colours, as demonstrated by the meteorite version of 2016. The DW5 Empreinte gets it right, with a deep black case a...

Parmigiani Introduces the Tondagraph GT “Panda” SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin where he designed Jun 1, 2021

Parmigiani Introduces the Tondagraph GT “Panda”

Parmigiani got on integrated-bracelet sports watch bandwagon last year with the launch of the Tonda GT, in both chronograph and three-hand formats. Like many of its luxury-sports watch peers, the Tonda GT was penned with the help of a (somewhat) famous designer, Dino Modolo, an industry veteran whose best known work comes from his time at Vacheron Constantin, where he designed the original Overseas. While the Tonda GT is arguably Parmigiani’s first bona fide sports watch, it is surprisingly good – stay tuned for a review soon – and now Parmigiani has unveiled a pair of Tondagraph GT chronographs with “panda” dials. Decorated with clou triangulaire guilloche, the silvered dials are matched with glossy black ceramic registers, elevating the retro “panda” to a new level. Somewhat confusingly, the Tondagraph GT will be available in steel with a modular movement featuring an annual calendar, or in 18k gold equipped with a pure-play, integrated chronograph movement that’s both high-frequency and finely constructed. Initial thoughts The Tonda GT has an appealing, original look that most crucially avoids looking derivative, an easy pitfall in the integrated-bracelet sports watch segment. And despite being one of the many such sports watches, the Tonda GT stands out with its own style that is inspired by Parmigiani’s dress watches, resulting in a look that’s best described as curious but attractive. The Tondagraph’s case and bracelet are neither angular nor ...

Footballer Jesse Lingard had his watch stolen from locker while playing for West Ham Time+Tide
May 28, 2021

Footballer Jesse Lingard had his watch stolen from locker while playing for West Ham

There’s nothing worse than having something stolen. You discover your possession isn’t where you left it. Self-doubt creeps in and you feel like you’re going crazy. You search everywhere in case it’s moved, with the growing feeling that you must have forgotten where you actually put it… That’s exactly the feeling football player Jesse Lingard … ContinuedThe post Footballer Jesse Lingard had his watch stolen from locker while playing for West Ham appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Got a big job interview? Meet the brand loaning people free watches to help them to seal the deal Time+Tide
May 24, 2021

Got a big job interview? Meet the brand loaning people free watches to help them to seal the deal

It started, like so many admirable ideas, in a pub garden over a few pints on a sunny day. Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, the Managing Director of the British watch brand Fears, found himself chatting about the effects of COVID on unemployment and how there were suddenly a growing number of people looking for work. “I started … ContinuedThe post Got a big job interview? Meet the brand loaning people free watches to help them to seal the deal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Which member of the Beckham family has the best watch collection? The answer may surprise you… Time+Tide
Omega Seamaster May 14, 2021

Which member of the Beckham family has the best watch collection? The answer may surprise you…

Celebrity watch endorsement is a double-edged sword. On one hand, the Omega Seamaster on your wrist might give you that little pang of excitement as you think of James Bond wearing the same watch, while on the other it’s easy to be cynical about the whole exercise. You want to be like your hero, but … ContinuedThe post Which member of the Beckham family has the best watch collection? The answer may surprise you… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The TAG Heuer Green Carrera Special Edition is the teal deal Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Green Carrera Special Edition May 10, 2021

The TAG Heuer Green Carrera Special Edition is the teal deal

Green. We all know it’s become the colour of the year, dominating the novelties across brands at Watches & Wonders last month. If 2020 was a sea of blue dials, it is now looking like a field of green. But with TAG Heuer’s latest release they have strategically presented a new novelty that offers consumers … ContinuedThe post The TAG Heuer Green Carrera Special Edition is the teal deal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Boldr Introduces the Odyssey Regatta SJX Watches
Frederique Constant Regatta Countdown Apr 30, 2021

Boldr Introduces the Odyssey Regatta

A “microbrand” based in Singapore, Boldr is all about affordable sports watches. The latest addition to its catalogue is the Odyssey Regatta, unusual for being a yachting-countdown watch at a notably accessible price. Initial thoughts Affordable, solid dive watches are commonplace nowadays, often offered by “microbrands” like Boldr. But the Odyssey Regatta sets itself apart from the competition due to its regatta countdown function (admittedly a simple execution powered by a 7750). And it’s an attractive design, especially the faceted case. Though the case is stamped and looks the part, it’s still typified by strong, angular lines. There’s a boldness in the case design that reminds me of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept. The Odyssey Regatta exemplifies Boldr’s focus on rugged “tool” watches. Having handled the prototype, I was impressed by the build quality, given its price. Feeling reassuringly solid on the wrist, the watch has a heft that’s reminiscent of dive watches like the Oris Aquis and the Sinn U1. But the heft might be a bit too much for some. At 45 mm wide and 18.2 mm thick, the Odyssey Regatta is a beast on the wrist. It took me some time to get used to the watch’s towering case. Nevertheless, the weighty Odyssey Regatta represents a good option for someone searching for a large regatta chronograph that won’t break the bank. Priced at US$1,499, it represents strong value. For comparison, the Frederique Constant Regatta Countdown...

Grand Seiko Nature Of Time: 4 Watches For 24 Seasons Quill & Pad
Grand Seiko Nature Apr 23, 2021

Grand Seiko Nature Of Time: 4 Watches For 24 Seasons

The Grand Seiko Nature of Time is a collection of four watches celebrating the Japanese system of dividing the year into 24 small seasons called sekki. Two of the watches have stainless steel cases and are powered by a mechanical high-beat caliber, while the other two are housed in titanium and run on Spring Drive Caliber 9R65. And let's have a look at those 'seasoned' dials!

Up Close: Patek Philippe Ref. 2523 World Time Cloisonne “Eurasia” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 2523 World Time Apr 22, 2021

Up Close: Patek Philippe Ref. 2523 World Time Cloisonne “Eurasia”

The upcoming spring auction season is bringing with it a surprising number of vintage Patek Philippe world time wristwatches. Christie’s will be offering three of them during its evening sale on May 22, including the famed and unique ref. 1415 HU in platinum that once held the record of most expensive watch in the world when it last sold publicly in 2002 and achieved CHF6.6 million including fees. Phillips, on the other hand, will be offering the Patek Philippe ref. 2523 “Eurasia” publicly for the very first time. Long owned by an Italian collector until it was acquired by the present owner in the mid 1990s, this ref. 2523 is one of just three known with a cloisonné dial bearing the “Eurasia” map – and it is in strikingly fine condition. I put it on my wrist during the preview exhibition, and the watch is gorgeous, crisp, and arguably every dollar of the ten or more million it’ll sell for. The hallowed complication Despite not being amongst the most complicated watches Patek Philippe made in the 20th century, its world-time wristwatches (and also pocket watches) are amongst the brand’s most coveted and valuable timepieces. Well before the platinum ref. 1415 HU set a record in 2002, examples of the ref. 2523 with cloisonné dial were regularly selling for well over US$1 million at auction in the 1990s – and are the inspiration for the today’s world-time models, including the recent ref. 5231J. The fact that the world-time was a favourite of Osvaldo Patr...

INTRODUCING: Same shape, different recycled materials. Panerai take sustainability to the next level… Time+Tide
Panerai take sustainability Apr 10, 2021

INTRODUCING: Same shape, different recycled materials. Panerai take sustainability to the next level…

Panerai maintains a strong focus on sustainability. This is expressed through the construction and metallurgy of their watches, right down to recycled materials for their fabric and leather straps. Their new Luminor Marina eSTEEL™ is the latest example of this valiant endeavour. Throw in Panerai’s generosity in making their own research publicly accessible and their … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Same shape, different recycled materials. Panerai take sustainability to the next level… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Review: Omega Seamaster Diver 300M in the new Black Black Deployant
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Apr 3, 2021

Review: Omega Seamaster Diver 300M in the new Black Black

The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Black Black is possibly the best looking modern Seamaster in today's lineup. It is in the larger size variant at 43.5 mm, but benefits from an all black case, dial and hands combination. By virtue of this matte black color, the watch is stealthy and unpretentious. The reliability of the co-axial movement with tested accuracy and anti-magnetism makes it ideal for a daily beater. Water proof to 300m, and fitted with a rubber strap, the watch is definitely versatile and sporty. It is priced at US$8650.

Goldtech: Alessandro Ficarelli on the Future of Gold According to Panerai Revolution
Panerai Panerai Mar 30, 2021

Goldtech: Alessandro Ficarelli on the Future of Gold According to Panerai

Panerai, the Italian masters of undersea naval exploration, excel at the art of the well-executed dive watch, a genre typically associated with sturdy cases made from steel, titanium and the like. But Panerai’s distinctive cushions can also be found in a sophisticated array of high-tech materials, as well as one perhaps even more surprising, gold. Or rather, Goldtech.

Richard Mille And Formula 1: Collaborations Now Span Ferrari, McLaren, Mick Schumacher, Charles Leclerc, Fernando Alonso, Kimi Raikönnen, And Romain Grosjean Quill & Pad
Richard Mille Mar 26, 2021

Richard Mille And Formula 1: Collaborations Now Span Ferrari, McLaren, Mick Schumacher, Charles Leclerc, Fernando Alonso, Kimi Raikönnen, And Romain Grosjean

As the 2021 Formula 1 season begins, Elizabeth Doerr revisits Richard Mille’s impressive commitment to the sport. The brand now supports two full Formula 1 teams and four high-profile drivers (with a fifth still convalescing after a horrific accident in the 2020 season), including Mick Schumacher. These are partnerships as natural as they come: the premise of Richard Mille’s entire brand is built upon the fact that his watches are “racing machines on the wrist.”

Omega Unveils De Ville Trésor Hand-Wind SJX Watches
Omega Unveils De Ville Trésor Mar 26, 2021

Omega Unveils De Ville Trésor Hand-Wind

Inspired by a mid-century gentleman’s watches, the Trésor is a newish sub-collection of Omega’s longstanding De Ville line. Just announced alongside the new Seamaster 300, the latest addition to the range is the De Ville Trésor Small Seconds, the most pared-back version to date. Also new is the slightly more complicated, but equally elegant, De Ville Trésor Power Reserve. Tresor Small Seconds (left) in Sedna gold, and Tresor Power Reserve in yellow gold Initial thoughts The new Trésor is unique in Omega’s catalogue for its movement and dial. It’s one of the very few Omega watches without a rotor, with the other more famous model that’s also hand wind being the Speedmaster Moonwatch. The manual-wind movement is apt, feeling at home on a dress watch and well suited for its vintage-inspired style of the Trésor. The cal. 8927 in the Small Seconds The new models illustrate the improving design of the Trésor line up, at least for watch enthusiasts who appreciate traditional design. The model range started with a format familiar for Omega – centre seconds and the date at six – but the new Trésor is focused, with all superfluous functions removed. Also gone is the patterned dial, giving the watch a cleaner appearance. With its simpler aesthetic, the new models gain a stronger identity, differentiating the Trésor from the rest of the catalogue, and even its fellow De Ville watches. Though the new design is progress, it’s still not perfect, yet. The desig...