Quill & Pad
Complete List Of The Ten 2020 Red Dot Watch Winners
The Red Dot is one of, if not THE, world’s most important and widely recognized design awards. Here Elizabeth Doerr shares 2020's watch laureates with us.
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Quill & Pad
SJX Watches
J.N. Shapiro Introduces the Infinity Series P.01 Guilloche Meteorite
An educator turned guilloche specialist, Joshua Shapiro launched his namesake brand, J.N. Shapiro, in 2018 with the Infinity Series. a classically-styled wristwatch with a hand-made guilloche dial featuring a nested engine-turned pattern of his own invention. His latest creation is the Infinity Series P.01, a collaboration with Collective, an American watch-collector club. Though it looks similar to the standard Infinity Series at first glance, the P.01 most definitely isn’t. While it does have a guilloche dial, the dial material is not the usual silver and gold, but meteorite – a first in watchmaking. Initial thoughts Two things stand set the P.01 apart from Mr Shapiro’s work so far. The first is tangibly impressive – an engine-turned meteorite dial, a significant accomplishment in terms of craft and skill. The result is a striking surface that overlays the natural and random Widmanstätten pattern of the meteorite with Mr Shapiro’s sharply-executed engine turning, which sounds confusing but appears to be a pleasing mix of order and chaos. But perhaps more important for J.N. Shapiro as a brand is the brand-new serif typeface for the Arabic hour numerals. Designed with the help of an artist, the numerals give the watch a style that’s distinct – and more 20th century contemporary – compared to the typical J.N. Shapiro watch that features Roman numerals and a Breguet-inspired aesthetic. And the P.01 starts at US$21,500 in steel, which is not that much mor...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Monaco Grand Prix de Monaco Historique Limited Edition
It may have been made to celebrate an event that, like everything else this year, has been cancelled, but that hasn’t stopped TAG Heuer from unveiling a new, high-octane variant of its iconic moniker – the TAG Heuer Monaco Grand Prix de Monaco Historique Limited Edition. Mouthful of a name aside, this latest iteration of … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Monaco Grand Prix de Monaco Historique Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster Revival “Manufacture Edition”
Zenith marked the 50th Anniversary of the El Primero last year with several historical remakes, including the editions for Phillips auctioneers as well as the El Primero A386 Revival, a set of watches that were a near-exact reproduction of the original. Now Zenith has debuted the final A386 remake – in steel like the original – with the Chronomaster Revival “Manufacture Edition” that’s equipped with a dial inspired by a long-forgotten prototype. Initial thoughts The Manufacture Edition is good-looking watch but a crucial factor in its appeal is the material – and price. Last year’s A386 Revival trio was only in 18k gold – one each in white, pink, and yellow gold. The Manufacture Edition is in steel, making it the most affordable A386 yet. Handsome and striking with a well-proportioned case and dial, the watch is very much a typical El Primero A386. The star of the new remake is unquestionably the dial. Employing the same tri-colour palette that’s the A386 trademark, this replaces the traditional tri-colour with different shades of the same blue, ranging from a bright azure blue to a dark midnight navy. For someone who loves the colour, this is appealing. The juxtaposition of the blue registers against the white dial promotes a stark and legible look. And it’s also worth noting the watch is not a limited edition – a wise move to avoid having unlimited limited editions – though distribution will be limited to Zenith’s e-commerce store and the ...
Revolution
Introducing the Bamford BWD X Badgerworks TAG Heuer Carrera “Tropical”
Only Bamford, the British customization specialist, could create a “tropical” dial made with coffee.
Video
Rolex LIED About This...The History of the Rolex Explorer
Time+Tide
EVERY WATCH TELLS A STORY: Why Nick’s Raketa Copernic is the ultimate quirky flex to impress collectors
“Is that what I think it is?” asked Aldis Hodge, Hollywood actor and horological designer, as I sat down for breakfast one morning at Dubai Watch Week 2019. “Yep,” I replied. “It’s an old Raketa Copernic; I picked it up last year.” “Nice, man. I’ve got one of those too,” he said. I had already … ContinuedThe post EVERY WATCH TELLS A STORY: Why Nick’s Raketa Copernic is the ultimate quirky flex to impress collectors appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Zenith Chronomaster Revival Manufacture Edition
This is the final version of the A386 available with the original Revival case.
Revolution
Introducing the Zenith Chronomaster Revival Manufacture Edition
New from Zenith an A386 with tri-tone blue sub dials, inspired by a prototype dial discovered in their famed attic at the manufacture
Time+Tide
Black Bay flashbacks! The ultimate Tudor Black Bay Buyer’s Guide, with 27 key references and a call on the best one yet
Ever since it was unveiled at Baselworld way back in 2012 (Fun fact: Andrew’s first Basel!), Tudor’s extensive and diverse range of Black Bays have represented some of the best value-for-money propositions on the market. Genuinely, every time anyone asks me what watch they should buy for around $5000 AUD, the answer is always the … ContinuedThe post Black Bay flashbacks! The ultimate Tudor Black Bay Buyer’s Guide, with 27 key references and a call on the best one yet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces the Superocean Heritage ’57 “Rainbow” – Again
Just in April this year, Breitling unveiled the Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57 Rainbow, a limited edition of just 250 pieces that it sold out within a few hours according to Breitling chief executive Georges Kern. With the presses for the 250 barely cool, Breitling has announced another rainbow-theme diver, the Superocean Heritage ’57 Limited Edition II. This time, the limited edition is 1,000 pieces – but with a charitable twist: 500,000 Swiss francs from the sale of the new edition will go to charities that support healthcare workers. The bulk of the sum has already been donated, split evenly amongst six charities in six countries that are amongst the hardest hit by the COVID-19 pandemic. Initial thoughts Issuing an almost-identical edition after the initial home run is not cool. It feels a bit too blatant. That said, it is substantially redeemed by the generous donation, which is equivalent to about 10% of gross revenue from the new “Rainbow II”. It is encouraging to see watchmakers leverage on their brand equity to aid relief efforts. As for the watch itself, the Rainbow II is actually a better looking watch. While the first edition had had a black dial and bezel, the new edition employs a blue dial and bezel that I find to be even more striking. The primary attraction is of course the rainbow-graduated hour markers that inject a playful element into what’s otherwise a serious-looking retro dive watch. While the rainbow markers may be divisive – I lo...
Video
“Somebody at the logistics company had stolen my watch” – Kelvin and his Blancpain
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Watch our epic video about the new Zenith Chronomaster Manufacture Edition, which includes an invitation from CEO
We have had some moments over the six plus year journey of Time+Tide, and this is certainly one of them. We have been asked by Zenith, one of the great manufactures, to help them launch this – the FINAL El Primero Special Edition in the 50th Anniversary year – the Chronomaster Manufacture Edition. Above is … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Watch our epic video about the new Zenith Chronomaster Manufacture Edition, which includes an invitation from CEO appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Breitling Superocean Heritage '57 Limited Edition II In Support Of Frontline Healthcare Workers
There is now a second version of the colorful watch, and it assists the fight against COVID-19.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Orient Kamasu Review: The Perfect Under The Radar Diver?
The Orient Kamasu is a great value proposition that packs a ton of features, design impact, and more for under $300 - is it perfect for you?
Time+Tide
IN-DEPTH: The Rolex Explorer II Ref.216570, sleeper classic or on the brink of extinction?
Let me start this review with an admission: I thought the Big Crown was going to turf many of its current models in 2020. The Milgauss, for example, is well past due for an evolution from its current form, if it remains at all. Likewise, the Air-King – which stylistically borrowed heavily from a set … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Rolex Explorer II Ref.216570, sleeper classic or on the brink of extinction? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces the Prospex Street Series “Urban Safari”
Released in 2018, the Seiko Prospex Street Series is essentially a modern twist on the iconic Seiko “Tuna” dive watch, retaining the signature case design of the “Tuna”, but with the addition of more colours as well as affordable pricing. With colours inspired by an African safari, the new Prospex Street Series “Urban Safari” is a four-strong collection made up of two basic models, each inspired by famous historical models with nicknames – the automatic “Tuna” and analogue-digital “Arnie” . Initial thoughts Strong, monochromatic colours give the watches an eye-catching and sporty look. Add to that the matching silicone straps and the result is something that goes well with streetwear, fulfilling the purpose of the collection. The khaki versions are very much safari in theme, but the others are more reminiscent of the concrete jungle. But regardless of model, the fundamentals of the watch are very much Seiko’s strength – casual, sporty design and very accessible pricing. “Tuna” and “Arnie” Historically a feature found on Seiko’s top-of-the-line dive watches, the shrouded case features prominently in Seiko’s current line-up collection, with the most recent addition being the historical remake of the ref. 6159-7010 of 1975 that’s part of the Diver’s Watch 55th Anniversary Trilogy. The “Tuna” inspiration of the Urban Safari is immediately evident from the protective shroud around the case, giving the watch a resemblance to a t...
Video
Interview Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO of Bvlgari, during the LVMH Watch Week
SJX Watches
Louis Erard Introduces the Excellence Regulator with Smoked Dials
Regulators are all about their characteristic dial where the hour, minute and seconds hands are each located on separate axes – with the minute hand being the largest and longest – a layout originally designed for maximum legibility on clock faces in the mid-18th century. The Louis Erard Excellence Regulator revisits this classical design, but now with a fashionable smoked dial – and an eminently affordable price tag. Initial thoughts Regulator watches are simple, but are not common at this price point – the Excellence Regulator costs just 2490 Swiss francs, or about US$2600. Louis Erard, however, has made something of a specialty of affordable regulator watches, most notably with the whimsical Alain Silberstein Regulator launched last year that was styled by the eponymous watch designer for Louis Erard. The value proposition is good, though the dials are definitely reminiscent the fumé dials of H. Moser & Cie, which didn’t invent such graduated-colour dials, but have made them almost synonymous with the brand. Based on the photos, the graduated finish of the Excellence Regulator dials are not quite as not as complex or refined as that on Moser’s watches – understandable and acceptable given the substantively lower price. Smoked dials While the regulator layout is unusual, the smoked dials are the highlight. Offered in vibrant and saturated hues of grey, blue or green, the colour gradually tapers off in intensity, turning almost black towards the edges...
Hodinkee
Best of Watchville: Watch Collecting Lifestyle Goes Inside The AP Factory And The Making Of A Royal Oak
An inside look at the modern manufacture of a watch icon.
Time+Tide
The liquid depth of Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin with onyx dial is worth travelling to Japan for
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is one of the most well-known watches in the world, but there are some references within the family that remain relatively undiscovered. While they are extremely rare, Royal Oaks with stone dials are as beautiful as you would imagine from the Le Brassus-based brand, with lapis lazuli and various other … ContinuedThe post The liquid depth of Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin with onyx dial is worth travelling to Japan for appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Review: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Hybris Artistica – Master Gyrotourbillon I
We take a look at a rare and breathtaking Hybris Artistica iteration of the iconic Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Gyrotourbillon I.
Revolution
The “Tōgè Special Edition” Exclusive Collaboration Between Grand Seiko and The Watches of Switzerland Group
A timepiece that celebrates the combined legacies of Grand Seiko and the Watche of Switzerland Group.
Video
Tag Heuer's biggest problem?
Time+Tide
G-Shock’s latest GMW-B5000 is off the grid, here’s how they did it (frickin laser beams, man)
** It is mandatory that all readers of this post be listening to this song while they do it. Thank you for complying.** We’ve said it before and we’ll say it again – G-Shock are losing the plot, and we’re loving it. And now, to cut straight to the chase, as direct as a frickin laser … ContinuedThe post G-Shock’s latest GMW-B5000 is off the grid, here’s how they did it (frickin laser beams, man) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Selfwinding 34 mm
The new quartet of Royal Oak models marks a first for Audemars Piguet – the Royal Oak Selfwinding 34 mm combines a 34 mm case with an automatic calibre supplied by movement specialist Vaucher. An addition to the line that is not meant to replace any existing model, the new 34 mm watch is now the smallest mechanical Royal Oak for ladies, with the smallest, 33 mm model being quartz, and the next-largest automatic having a 37 mm case. Initial thoughts The new watch fills a gap in the diverse Royal Oak line-up – a watch compact enough for ladies but with a mechanical movement. While the new 34 mm model is not explicitly described as a women’s watch, it is in all but name, as Audemars Piguet already has a 37 mm model as the medium-sized men’s Royal Oak. That said, the proportions of the 34 mm case remind me of the Royal Oak ref. 4100 of the 1970s and 1980s, which was then a large-sized men’s watch and 36 mm in diameter, not too much larger than the new model. By that benchmark, the new 34 mm model should not be a ladies’ watch per se, and could appeal to men who prefer a smaller case size. But for the broader market, it is a ladies’ watch, and I can see its appeal. Importantly, it has a mechanical movement – long absent for the ladies’ Royal Oak – and the versions with the diamond-set bezels offer a bit of bling to go along with the iconic design. So it should attract a new female customer who has always wanted a Royal Oak, but was savvy enough to wait fo...
SJX Watches
In-Depth: The Life Behind the Deadbeat Seconds
Watchmaking combines technical achievement and aesthetic expression, and sometimes the two are inextricably linked. In a handful of instances, the technical achievement transforms the artistic value, as in the jumping seconds. The complication is perhaps the most abrupt expression of time. Is there any value in having a mechanical jumping seconds? In exploring that, we first have to understand how the seconds as a unit of time came to be. Time in antiquity In today’s world where no one bats an eyelid when a satellite is sent into orbit, time and space are perceived to be intimately linked as one. Before Einstein hit upon the theory of relativity, the link between space and time was nebulous, but the definition of time was well established. For the ancient Egyptians, daytime was based on the apparent movement of the Sun, and the night sky was segmented into smaller divisions based on the position and motion of stars. Over the subsequent millennia, the Sumerians and Babylonians further refined the time measurement to better account for stellar motion. The Babylonians, inspired by the Egyptians, approximated the movement of the Sun’s apparent revolution into 360 divisions, due to the number of days required for the Sun to trace its path on the ecliptic and their predilection for a base-60 (or sexagesimal) system. This is also the origin of 360 degrees required for a complete revolution, which was explained by Malcolm Correll in the volume 15 of scientific journal The Phy...
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: 5 almost instantly sold out collaborations that have consolidated the cult of Unimatic
Editor’s note: There are more micro and independent watchmakers out there than you could possibly ever discover in one lifetime – literally thousands upon thousands of different brands, all vying for your hard-earned. Ascertaining which makers are the successful ones is pretty simple. If they’ve been established for anything more than two years and they’re still … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: 5 almost instantly sold out collaborations that have consolidated the cult of Unimatic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Sunday Rewind: The Patek Philippe 175th Anniversary Collection (Five Years Later)
A birthday party of the highest order.
Video