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Beads of Rice Bracelet

Mid-century steel bracelet with discrete bead-shaped links; Gay Frères, NSA, Novavit; modern Forstner revival.

Accutron Watches Buyer's Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Accutron Watches Buyer's Guide Accutron Sep 15, 2023

Accutron Watches Buyer's Guide

Accutron watches have been around since the 1960s, and yet the brand has become one of the freshest faces in the watch industry in the 2020s, anchored by its combination of uniquely innovative movement technology and a defiantly retro design language. When one considers how ahead of its time the original Accutron watches were - back when they were still called Bulova Accutron, part of that company's sprawling portfolio - their success in the 21st Century under a newly independent Accutron brand should surprise no one. Read on to familiarize yourself with Accutron and its pioneering role in watchmaking, from its early days to its most recent releases on the market now. Made in America: Bulova History The history of the Accutron brand begins with the Bulova Watch Company, founded by Bohemian immigrant Joseph Bulova (above) in New York City in 1875. One of the most important historical watch brands with roots in the United States, the company is today part of the Japanese Citizen Group and can look back upon a history littered with milestones: the first full line of ladies’ watches, the first television commercial, some of the earliest wristwatches produced for American troops during World War II, and one of the earliest celebrity watch endorsements - by none other than legendary aviation pioneer Charles Lindbergh, for its Lone Eagle watch - to name just a few. Throughout this history, Bulova had developed a well-earned reputation for innovating and for adapting ...

Tudor Unveils the US Navy-Inspired Pelagos FXD Ref. 25717N SJX Watches
Tudor Unveils Sep 14, 2023

Tudor Unveils the US Navy-Inspired Pelagos FXD Ref. 25717N

Tudor’s release on September 14th lived up to the anticipation, particularly for enthusiasts who appreciate vintage-inspired design. The Pelagos FXD ref. 25717N is a variant of the model developed together with the French navy and shares the same specs, including a 42 mm titanium case. But the new FXD “Single Red” pays homage to the brand’s historical affiliation with the US Navy, which turned to Tudor for military-issue timepieces starting in 1950s. Initial thoughts While this may be fairly unsurprising given the nature of Tudor’s catalogue, the new FXD is well executed and ticks all the right boxes for those who love military-inspired tool watches. The no-nonsense black dial with the “single red” marking instantly evokes well-known dive watches of the 1970s. The watch itself is not new. It’s essentially identical to the Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale” from in 2021, but with black dial and bezel that gives it a more purposeful look. It’s a predictable evolution of the model given Tudor’s emphasis on its historical ties with navies and other professional organisations. Like the original FXD in blue, this has a clean dial that allows the design to be unobstructed. Notably, the designers should be commending for going with pure white Super-Luminova on this, instead of faux-vintage lume that might have looked too affected. However, its designers could have been even more striking by dialling back the text on the dial even more, perhaps having just the ...

Interview: Lange CEO Wilhelm Schmid Talks Retail and CPO SJX Watches
Rolex buying Bucherer Sep 14, 2023

Interview: Lange CEO Wilhelm Schmid Talks Retail and CPO

Very few will have missed the news of Rolex buying Bucherer, and all of the reactions to it. Given the big change this poses to the world of watch retail, when we were recently given the chance to speak with Wilhelm Schmid, chief executive of A. Lange & Söhne, we thought it the perfect opportunity to get his insight on the current retail landscape.  We sat down with the seasoned leader – now the longest-serving brand boss in Richemont – at this year’s Concours of Elegance, the classic car show at Hampton Court Palace, surrounded by the sounds of vintage V8s revving in the distance. Now that the world has exited the pandemic for good, the way we shop seems to be going back to normal and the shifts that brands made during those turbulent years are either being undone or slowly wound down in the hope that customers are willing to go back to the old ways of doing things and getting out to physical stores. Mr Schmid is certainly of the mindset that a face-to-face connection is the only way to sell one of their watches, as we discovered in our discussion below.  Not only did we talk about how the German brand plans to change their retail strategy moving forward, we also queried him on the Bucherer takeover and how Lange is adapting the to rising tide of brands developing certified pre-owned (CPO) offerings.  The following interview has been edited for clarity and length.  Wilhelm Schmid (left) with the best-in-show winner at the Concours of Elegance 2023 RPS: Perhaps...

TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Night Driver Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Night Driver Sep 14, 2023

TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Night Driver

TAG Heuer has been synonymous with motorsport for decades, and they’re back with an eye-popping new edition of their classic Monaco chronograph. The Monaco is one of the cornerstones of the brand’s legendary foundation, and has been since it burst into the spotlight way back in 1969, as one of the very first automatic chronographs … ContinuedThe post TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Night Driver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

TAG Heuer Introduces the Glow-in-the-Dark Monaco Night Driver SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces Sep 14, 2023

TAG Heuer Introduces the Glow-in-the-Dark Monaco Night Driver

Following its recent run of strikingly modern iterations of the classic Monaco, like the Skeleton Dial and the one-of-a-kind Only Watch split-seconds chronograph, TAG Heuer debuts the Monaco Chronograph Night Driver Limited Edition alongside the side of the 2023 Formula 1 Singapore Grand Prix. Dressed in shades of grey during the day, the Night Driver transforms into something else altogether at night. It retains the outlines of the vintage original in terms of design, but the Night Driver gets a luminescent chapter ring and sub-dials for nighttime legibility – a nod to the Singapore Grand Prix’s status as the first-ever Formula 1 night race. Initial thoughts After the recent Monaco models that were very contemporary, the more traditional looks of the Night Driver are a positive development. And even then the Night Driver incorporates an intriguing twist, making it more than just a vintage-ish watch. The Night Driver has a dial that uses Super-Luminova as a key element of the design, bringing to mind the Monza Flyback Chronometer. But here the lume is even more generously applied than on the Monza.  Moreover, the grey tones of anthracite, grey opaline, and case coated in diamond-like carbon (DLC), complement the lume well, creating a vintage feel that evokes faded “ghost” dials while still being a modern watch. Like other titanium Monaco models, the Night Driver is light in hand and on the wrist, despite the relatively large case. The thickness of the case, a cons...

How chronometers went from ships to wrists Time+Tide
Sep 14, 2023

How chronometers went from ships to wrists

As soon as John Harrison realised that a pocket watch could be made to be just as accurate as his 60cm-tall chronometer sea clocks, the road to wristwatch chronometry had begun. Most watch enthusiasts are familiar with how wristwatches became popular after WWI, thanks to the convenience of keeping your hands free while soldiering. It … ContinuedThe post How chronometers went from ships to wrists appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar “Darth” SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 13, 2023

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar “Darth”

Since its debut in 2021, the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar has been the brand’s flagship pure-play perpetual calendar that combines the trademark Lange 1 design with a sophisticated movement, while doing away with the tourbillon of its bigger brother. The model now gets a new of platinum with a black dial, a combination nicknamed “Darth”, and remains powered by the L021.3. Initial thoughts The Lange 1 perpetual calendar has consistently impressed with its thoughtful design. The asymmetrical yet streamlined dial effortlessly communicates essential information. And because doesn’t have the tourbillon of the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar, it is relatively affordable, at least as such things go. As for the new version, it does look good. Lange watches tend to look good with white metal cases and black dials, think Datograph or Zeitwerk, and this is no exception. This is especially considering the model was available only with light coloured dials like salmon or grey.  The rest of the watch remains unchanged, so it has all the pros (and cons) of the earlier iterations. While the movement is impressively executed, it is a large watch, particularly since it only has the calendar complication. At almost 42 mm wide and just over 12 mm high, it has dimensions comparable to a sports chronograph. That said, most complicated Lange watches feel over-engineered, so this is typical Lange in many ways. “Darth” The new model retains the dial layout that i...

This New Citizen Promaster Altichron Can Read an Altitude Higher than the World’s Tallest Peak Worn & Wound
Citizen Promaster Altichron Can Read Sep 12, 2023

This New Citizen Promaster Altichron Can Read an Altitude Higher than the World’s Tallest Peak

Citizen has introduced a new Altichron to the Promaster family of watches. This series has always struck me as kind of gleefully over the top, even more than many of the crazy dive watches we talk about in these pages frequently. The whole idea behind the “Promaster” branding is to show Citizen’s prominence in designing watches that can take on land and air in addition to sea, but sometimes we get caught up in the dive watch aspect of it all given the importance of watches in that niche to the culture of contemporary watch collecting. The Altichron is, effectively, a souped up field watch made with mountaineering in mind, and it has a number of features that should make athletes who spend their time at higher elevations quite happy. For the rest of us, there’s still a lot of cool tech to gawk at, which is a perfectly acceptable way to enjoy a watch like this in my book.  The key feature of the Altichron is its altitude sensor, which allows for measurements up to 32,800 feet above sea level (Mt. Everest, for the record, is a little over 29,000 feet above sea level). Also, just in case you’re the multidisciplinary sort, you’ll get an accurate reading up to 300 meters below sea level as well. The altitude meter is read via an inner dial for the first 900 meters above sea level, and then via a subdial at 9:00 for higher altitudes. The Altichron is also equipped with an electronic compass that shows your heading via a gauge around the dial’s perimeter. The layout...

Hands-On: Fleux Skin Divers Balance Throwback Inspiration with Modern Vibes Worn & Wound
Sep 12, 2023

Hands-On: Fleux Skin Divers Balance Throwback Inspiration with Modern Vibes

We love seeing watches that break free of the well established genre specific design codes, offering an original perspective that doesn’t necessarily take the beaten path. When it comes to dive watch in particular, this can be a challenge, though it can indeed be done. The dive watch template is simple and straightforward, making it especially challenging to carve a unique path, which often happens in subtle ways. This is a genre with a deep and easily recognizable heritage, and many new watches and watch brands tend to lean on these a bit too heavily, creating a somewhat homogeneous landscape of divers. The watches we’re looking at today from Fleux, are no exception, however they do bring something unique to the table at the same time.  The watches are the FLX001 and FLX002, a pair of skin divers that offer a perfectly comfortable design at a glance, sitting well within that dive watch archetype mold. There is clear old-school inspiration at work, but there’s a modern sheen applied that manages to find a pleasant balance between the inspiration, and the forward looking intent. These watches manage this in a manner that can be tricky to put a finger on, meaning it feels relatively organic in the process, and somewhat retro-futuristic as a side effect. A fact first tipped off by the brand’s motto: “vintage inspired; continually new”. $450 Hands-On: Fleux Skin Divers Balance Throwback Inspiration with Modern Vibes Case Stainless Steel Movement SII SH38A Automati...

Tissot PRX Watches: The Ultimate Guide to the Collection Teddy Baldassarre
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Sep 12, 2023

Tissot PRX Watches: The Ultimate Guide to the Collection

The Tissot PRX collection is one of the Swiss brand’s major success stories of the past decade despite its relatively recent introduction to the market. Engaging the 21st-Century watch aficionado zeitgeist with its crowd-pleasing combination of classical sport-luxury design, intriguing colorways, and accessible price points, the Tissot PRX has grown from a handful of models to become a modern pillar of the 170-year-old brand’s sprawling and diverse portfolio. Here’s a rundown of the Tissot PRX collection, with a spotlight on several of its most noteworthy models.  The Original: 1978 The original Tissot PRX debuted in 1978, and like many watches from that era, it was powered by a quartz movement. The watch was distinguished by its flat, barrel-shaped, multi-faceted case, which integrated smoothly into a flexible, articulated steel bracelet; it took its three-initial model name from its attributes: the “P” and “R” stand for “precise” and “robust,”respectively, and the “X” is actually a Roman numeral “10” depicting the model’s 10 atmospheres (aka 100 meters) of water resistance. The overall aesthetic was one that today’s watch historians will readily recognize, hearkening back to the groundbreaking design of a much pricier watch that had debuted several years earlier, in 1972, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. The latter had, in fact, exerted influence on a number of so-called “sport-luxury” timepieces that debuted in the Decade of Disco,...

Tissot Just Hit Our Windup Watch Shop! Worn & Wound
Tissot Just Hit Our Windup Sep 12, 2023

Tissot Just Hit Our Windup Watch Shop!

For watch collectors and enthusiasts, Tissot is a brand that holds special meaning. Part of the Swatch group, they are a rare brand that offers a little of everything, always at a good price, and always Swiss-made. Vintage, modern, sport, digital, dress, quirky, classic – you name it, they’ve got it. They also span all types of movements, making it very easy to find a watch that suits your taste and budget. While a great way to get into Swiss-made watches, Tissot is a brand that you’ll find yourself going back to over the years. Today, we’re very excited to welcome Tissot to the Windup Watch Shop. For watch collectors and enthusiasts, Tissot is a brand that holds special meaning. Part of the Swatch group, they are a rare brand that offers a little of everything, always at a good price, and always Swiss-made. Vintage, modern, sport, digital, dress, quirky, classic – you name it, they’ve got it. They also span all types of movements, making it very easy to find a watch that suits your taste and budget. While a great way to get into Swiss-made watches, Tissot is a brand that you’ll find yourself going back to over the years. Today, we’re very excited to welcome Tissot to the Windup Watch Shop. The post Tissot Just Hit Our Windup Watch Shop! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Zenith Adds a Black Dial to the Chronomaster Original Family Worn & Wound
Zenith Adds Sep 12, 2023

Zenith Adds a Black Dial to the Chronomaster Original Family

It is perhaps a reflection of all the good work Zenith has done over the last few years that a new variant of the Chronomaster Original can arrive and it feels like a watch that has simply existed for years. The El Primero 3600 powered line of vintage influenced chronographs feel timeless in a way that only a small handful of watches can – those few that have been around for decades and gone through only incremental changes. Under the hood, the Chronomaster Original is about as tech forward as you can get when it comes to mass market chronos from a heritage Swiss brand, with its impressive 1/10th second counter. But the dial, on this new version, does the neat trick of creating something brand new to the line that seems both obvious and every bit as classic as the “original” Original.  When we think of the Chronomaster Original, it’s the tri-colored subdial arrangement that immediately comes to mind for most. That is the design characteristic of the dial that feels most essential. You could be forgiven for asking yourself the question: did this ever come in black? The answer, until now (and for this case size) was “no,” but here Zenith has unveiled a new Chronomaster Original that substitutes the cream white backdrop of the earlier version of the watch for a simple black. White and black as options are so ubiquitous in this segment that it’s genuinely surprising this watch was only just introduced as a secondary option. Zenith, of course, already makes this ...

Marco Lang Open Sources His Movement and Constructions SJX Watches
Lang & Heyne Sep 12, 2023

Marco Lang Open Sources His Movement and Constructions

As a gifted and passionate watchmaker, Marco Lang is committed to preserving his legacy for future generations. This extraordinary commitment involves providing unrestricted access to all the construction data related to every component of his Zweigesicht-1 timepiece on his website. This open-source initiative aims to assist future watchmakers in servicing Marco’s watches for generations to come. The beginning of independence When a watchmaker, especially an independent one, makes the commitment to ensure that his creations will remain fully functional and cherished by generations to come, it truly demonstrates the depth of his devotion and altruism toward both his present and future clientele. Marco Lang embarked on his journey as an independent watchmaker when he founded his modest workshop in Dresden in 2003, in collaboration with Mirko Heyne and Lothar Zieger, which eventually became known as Lang & Heyne. In 2019, he once again chose the path of an independent watchmaker, this time working entirely on his own. He found a delicate balance between idealism and art, a topic he delves into in this article he penned for us during the year he decided to embark on this new chapter. Marco Lang in his workshop, located within his home. Photo – Marco Lang The subsequent year marked the introduction of his inaugural creation under the “Marco Lang” signature, the double-faced Zweigesicht-1, housing the remarkable calibre ml-01. The calibre ml-01 With all 18 pieces of the ...

Exhibition: A.-L. Breguet and England at The Science Museum, London SJX Watches
Breguet Sep 12, 2023

Exhibition: A.-L. Breguet and England at The Science Museum, London

Abraham-Louis Breguet: The English Connection opens today at the Clockmakers Museum, part of The Science Museum in South Kensington, displaying an array of vintage Breguet clocks that illustrate the master watchmaker’s connection to the United Kingdom. Marking the 200th anniversary of Breguet’s death, the display cases are full of pieces brought together from private and public collections, with some pieces being shown in a museum setting for the very first time.  The poster for the exhibition. Image – The Clockmakers’ Museum. The headline exhibit is the four-minute tourbillon, no. 1297, made for King George III that sold at Sotheby’s in 2020 for £1.6 million (roughly $2 million) that many thought would never be seen in the country again after it crossed the auction block. However, thanks to the efforts of those at the Worshipful Company of Clockmakers and the Clockmaking Museum, it will be on display for an entire year alongside other rarely seen creations from Breguet.  The story behind this watch is worth digging into a bit, as it was bought at a time when England and France were at war with each other and so there was a ban on French goods entering the country. This is why you won’t see the name Breguet anywhere visible on the watch. Instead you have the name of the retailer the King went through inscribed in large lettering on the movement bridge. But if you pay close attention, Breguet signed his name in small letters on the tourbillon carriage, in the...

Christiaan van der Klaauw Unveils the Planetarium in DLC and Turquoise SJX Watches
Christiaan van der Klaauw Unveils Sep 11, 2023

Christiaan van der Klaauw Unveils the Planetarium in DLC and Turquoise

Long a specialist in astronomical complications, Christiaan van der Klaauw (CVDK) has just unveiled an unconventional take on one of its signature models, the Planetarium Eise Eisinga Black DLC SHH Edition. Named after the 18th century Dutch astronomer Eise Eisinga, the model has been facelifted in an eight-piece limited edition for Sincere Haute Horlogerie (SHH), a retailer headquartered in Singapore. In contrast to the typical CVDK offerings with polished cases in steel or gold, the SHH edition has a frosted steel case with a diamond-like carbon (DLC) coating that contrasts starkly with the turquoise-painted dial. The centrepiece of the dial is the planetarium display at six o’clock that tracks the real-time motion of six largest planets in the solar system. Initial thoughts Practically synonymous with astronomical complications, CVDK offers a wider variety of such complications than any other brand. Amongst its best-known is the planetarium, which has the advantage of being easy to understand since it’s basically a display of planets moving around the Sun. The key point to understand about the planetarium is its rate of motion – the display moves very, very slowly because it’s a real-time reflection of the planets in the solar system. They travel slowly around the Sun, at least relative to the scale of time on Earth, so the rings of the planetarium move at an imperceptible pace. The quickest orbit is Mercury’s, which still takes almost 90 days, or three month...

Watchmaking’s Rising Stars Symposium at Geneva Watch Days 2023 Revolution
Sep 11, 2023

Watchmaking’s Rising Stars Symposium at Geneva Watch Days 2023

At Geneva Watch Days Revolution hosted a series of symposiums, with some the watch industries greatest leaders, innovators and visionaries. In case you couldn’t make it in person, we’re sharing the stream here. The star-studded panel for our discussion on Watchmaking’s Rising Stars included Simon Brette, Andrea Furlan, Stefan Kudoke, Rémi Maillat, Gautier Massonneau, Claude […]

The Arris Sling by Craighill Is The Perfect City Sling Worn & Wound
Sep 10, 2023

The Arris Sling by Craighill Is The Perfect City Sling

It’s a tale as old as time: You want to leave the house and you need to bring more stuff with you than your pockets can accommodate. A backpack would be nice, but just seems like overkill. Bringing a jacket and loading up the pockets is downright clunky (and who wants to do that when it’s hot out? yuck.) Carrying a sling bag is a modern solution to that age-old problem of too much stuff and not enough pockets. That’s where the new Arris Sling from Craighill comes in. Let’s take a look at this handy piece of kit that bridges the gap between overloaded pockets and looking like a kid going back to school with their bulky back pack. It’s a tale as old as time: You want to leave the house and you need to bring more stuff with you than your pockets can accommodate. A backpack would be nice, but just seems like overkill. Bringing a jacket and loading up the pockets is downright clunky (and who wants to do that when it’s hot out? yuck.) Carrying a sling bag is a modern solution to that age-old problem of too much stuff and not enough pockets. That’s where the new Arris Sling from Craighill comes in. Let’s take a look at this handy piece of kit that bridges the gap between overloaded pockets and looking like a kid going back to school with their bulky back pack. The post The Arris Sling by Craighill Is The Perfect City Sling appeared first on Worn & Wound.

From podium to pandemonium - Carlos Sainz chases down $500,000 Richard Mille thief Time+Tide
Richard Mille thief After delivering one Sep 10, 2023

From podium to pandemonium - Carlos Sainz chases down $500,000 Richard Mille thief

After delivering one of the drives of his career and scoring a podium in front of the Tifosi, Ferrari driver Carlos Sainz found himself in a highly uncomfortable situation just hours after the podium celebrations. With the perpetrators reportedly posing as fans waiting for a signature upon his arrival to the Armani Hotel, the three … ContinuedThe post From podium to pandemonium – Carlos Sainz chases down $500,000 Richard Mille thief appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A Week In Watches, Episode 63: Geneva Watch Days Special Worn & Wound
De Bethune s Sep 10, 2023

A Week In Watches, Episode 63: Geneva Watch Days Special

In the special edition of A Week In Watches, Zach Weiss and Blake Buettner sit down together to discuss some of the most interesting new releases from Geneva Watch Days, and more. From blacked out Doxas, to kind of blue De Bethunes, and a Eucalyptus Ressence, there were plenty of new watches to appreciate, including the joint Only Watch submission from H. Moser and MB&F;. You can view more of our Geneva Watch Days coverage right here, and keep an eye out for more yet to come. Geneva Watch Days didn’t give us the only new releases last week, though. One of the biggest surprises, and a welcome one at that, was the new Seiko ‘Alpinist’ GMT Prospex references, which brings their 6R54 GMT caliber into the beloved field watch collection. It makes a whole lot of sense in this platform, even if it is a ‘caller’ style GMT, so we’re thrilled to see it makes its way over. This episode of A Week In Watches is sponsored by our friends at Shinola. To commemorate 10 years of American design and manufacturing, Shinola Detroit is proud to share this video that reveals the company and its employees as a team that can carve a distinct pathway forward with their own sense of, as they say, “timeless American design.” This cinematic video gives an insider glimpse of their watchmakers assembling timepieces, soaring views of the Detroit headquarters, and shares perspective on the past decade as well as Shinola’s aims for the future. Learn more about Shinola’s Timeless American ...

Is Silicon Here to Stay in (Rolex) Watch Movements? - Reprise Quill & Pad
Rolex Sep 10, 2023

Is Silicon Here to Stay in (Rolex) Watch Movements? - Reprise

Hairsprings are miniscule. Generally no more than one centimeter in overall diameter when coiled, they are roughly 50 microns thick and 150 microns wide. Tiny they may be, but insignificant they are not. In fact, they are so significant that Rolex refers to them as “the guardians of time.” But what do silicon hairsprings bring to the table? Watchmaker Ashton Tracy explains why he went from skeptic to fan.

Andrew picks out three new watches under $1,000 from Geneva Watch Days Time+Tide
Sep 10, 2023

Andrew picks out three new watches under $1,000 from Geneva Watch Days

While the numbers reveal many of you love luxury timepieces, there is an equal, if not larger, interest in more budget-friendly watches – this is especially true within the daily wearer segment. As much as people romanticise the idea, not everyone is comfortable getting down and dirty with a pricey watch on their wrist. While … ContinuedThe post Andrew picks out three new watches under $1,000 from Geneva Watch Days appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.