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Hands-On: The 34mm A. Lange & Söhne 1815
For the watch enthusiast who doesn't subscribe to the whole "size matters" theory.
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Hodinkee
For the watch enthusiast who doesn't subscribe to the whole "size matters" theory.
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne delivered one of its most impressive complications at Watches & Wonders 2025, but it was the brand’s entry level novelty that was the talk of the town. The 1815 34 mm won many admirers, and for good reason; it’s attractive, comfortable, well-made, and priced right – an increasingly rare combination. Available in either 18k white or pink gold, the new 1815 is a regular production model but features a galvanic blue dial most often associated with the brand’s limited editions. It joins the Saxonia Thin as Lange’s entry-level offering; both are priced comparably but look and feel very different. Initial thoughts Small watches are back, and the 1815 design works perfectly in the 34 mm size due to its bold numerals, which help it maintain a strong presence on the wrist. The case size now goes without saying, but it’s worth mentioning the 6.4 mm thickness, which places it among the brand’s thinnest watches. This sizing is effortlessly comfortable, and the abundance of gold, sterling silver, and German silver give it reassuring heft. Like most Lange dials, the stepped blue dial of the 1815 is made from sterling silver that’s been given a galvanic finish. This particular shade of blue is often used for limited editions like the 25th anniversary Datograph and 30th anniversary Lange 1, which makes it feel extra special. Longtime fans of the brand will recall this dial harks back to the first-generation 1815 that was available with a similar dial (and...
SJX Watches
While the most valuable lot at Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction will likely be the Breguet Sympathique clock no. 1, the sale also includes a few unexpected and interesting lots. One standout is the Louis Vuitton Escale Spin Time “Only Watch”, a unique piece created for the Only Watch charity auction in 2019. Consigned by the original owner – who is a prominent collector whom I greatly respect – the Spin Time is a flamboyant, gem-set take on Louis Vuitton’s signature complication. The centrepiece is a miniature enamel dial by Anita Porchet depicting a motif inspired by tattoo art. This unique Spin Time originally sold for CHF280,000 at Only Watch 2019. Now carrying an estimate of CHF40,000-80,000, the watch will go on the block at Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction taking place on May 10, 2025. Initial thoughts I was a fan of this Spin Time when it was first revealed in 2019. In fact, I bid on it at Only Watch, but I was laughably uncompetitive and far from the CHF280,000 hammer. In contrast to the latest generation of Spin Time that is both refined and discreet, this watch is over the top and I like it because of that. The aesthetic is a lot, maybe too much, but it works. Most importantly, the watch is not just about extravagant styling. The dial is the work of Anita Porchet herself, combining both miniature painting and champleve. Certainly the motif is not for everyone, but the quality of craft is unmistakeable. A rose among the thorns This unique Spin Time...
Monochrome
Last month, the Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025 fair was the occasion for us, and all watch enthusiasts, to discover the new collections of approximately 60 brands. As the successor to the SIHH, the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, most exhibiting brands are top-tier segment players. As fascinating as it is, there was not […]
Worn & Wound
If Hollywood stars and trend forecasters are correct about the state of the watch world, it’s that bigger isn’t better anymore. Many brands are finding their sizing guidelines are in a state of flux the past few years, with many enthusiasts opting for classical sizing and subverting notions of gendered expectations. A push for inclusion within the collector community seems to have also correlated with the expansion of hallmark models into different sizing categories. The move serves to bring in new consumers and allows for a greater range of choice amongst all enthusiasts. The PRX has been Tissot’s tour de force in recent years. The reissue of an original 1970s design by the brand in 2021 sparked a bit of a revolution with enthusiasts – many of whom flocked to the watch for the competitive pricing and quality. The integrated steel bracelet and tonneau-style case shape evokes a groovy callback to the designs of the seventies when quartz movements were truly high-end and sports watches were king. It makes sense, given the popularity of the Tissot PRX since its initial reissue, why it’s now offered in 59 different variations on the brand’s website today. As many of us know, there can be popular mainstream watches whose constant re-(and re and re-)releases begin to hit a nerve with the collector community after a while. Fortunately, it seems the PRX is one that hasn’t overstayed its welcome – and for good reason. This new 25mm reference expands the market in ...
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A limited edition colorway for Urwerk's signature wandering hours complication.
SJX Watches
After teasing collectors with the compact Chronomètre Furtif Bleu in 2023, F.P. Journe has unveiled its successor, the Chronomètre Furtif (CF). The CF offers the same dimensions as its predecessor as well as a similar laser-engraved grand feu enamel dial, but takes the idea of furtif, or “stealthy”, even further with black-on-black livery. While the CF Bleu was a one-off piece in tantalum made for the Only Watch charity auction where it sold for CHF2 million, the new CF is a regular production model crafted almost entirely from scratch-resistant tungsten carbide. Initial thoughts The CF is a watch that hits you over the head with its intense darkness and exceptional weight. It’s not dark in the same way as an H. Moser & Cie. Venturer Vantablack, which effectively absorbs light; rather, the dial is a deep glossy black like the glass of an iPhone screen. This reflectivity makes it difficult to photograph but easy to enjoy. These characteristics are thanks to the flawless black grand feu enamel dial and laser-engraved markings. Because of the way the light plays across the dial, it looks slightly different from almost every angle. It’s a dramatic and interactive dial that contributes significantly to the overall wearing experience. The CF is a true heavyweight, tipping the scales at 250 g. But it feels even heavier on account of its wearable 42 mm footprint and slim 9.55 mm thickness. This size-to-weight ratio gives it an almost overwhelming sense of density. The wa...
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Hong Kong owners have sold the Swiss brand known for its unique Coin Watch and Golden Bridge timepieces.
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There’s a new beast in town.
Monochrome
Historical Swiss watch brand Corum is back to Swiss ownership following a management buy-out led by Sales Director Haso Mehmedovic, backed by a group of Swiss investors – which remains undisclosed for now but is presented as members of the luxury and finance sectors. Haso Mehmedovic, who will serve as the brand’s new CEO, began […]
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Revolution
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe’s Complicated Desk Clock Ref. 27000M-001 is the biggest release of Watches & Wonders 2025, with a footprint of 164.6 by 125 mm, and rising to 76.73 mm at its apex. Priced at an even CHF1 million before taxes, the clock is powered by a key-wound, 31-day movement – incorporating a one-second remontoir d’egalite – housed in a wedge-shaped sterling silver cabinet, decorated with green flinqué enamel. Initial thoughts While we’ve seen desk and table clocks from others in the space, none have been as incredibly high-effort as this. Patek Philippe claims the 912-part shaped caliber took seven years of development, including nine patent applications. That’s quite the investment in a product with limited mainstream appeal, and I find it reassuring that Patek Philippe is still willing to make those investments. The enamel work is enchanting and has precedent in early 20th-century silver travel clocks retailed by Cartier, among others. I could take or leave the baroque styling, but the dial and hidden “dashboard” look fantastic. I hope Patek Philippe will offer this movement in other styles down the road. If you’ve never experienced a key-winding watch or clock, it’s quite satisfying; I wouldn’t call it fun, but it’s not something you’re likely to get sick of. It’s an experience you can’t get with Patek Philippe’s other current production clocks, which use an electric motor to wind the movement without need of human intervention. The b...
Worn & Wound
Nomos is always a safe bet when someone who isn’t very into watches but is perhaps interested in dabbling is looking for a recommendation. That is not to say that those of us who are very into watches don’t appreciate them either. A darling of watch enthusiasts, the Glashütte manufacture manages to package watch nerdery into easy-to-digest, colorful, modern morsels. But, and I say this only as an adoring fan (my first manufacture watch was a Nomos I still own), in the last few years, their novelties have felt mostly iterative, focusing on colors and sizes (and don’t get me started on calling a manual watch watch the Minimatik – what does -matik mean if not automatic?!). Thankfully, they broke this trend with the Nomos Glashütte Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer (Club Worldtimer from here out), which was easily a favorite from this year’s Watches & Wonders. Typically, with a hands-on article, I would start with the watch’s case or dial, but the thing that stood out most to me about the Club Worldtimer was the quality of the click. Up, at 2 p.m. on the case, is a single pump-pusher that is used to jump the hour hand one hour forward and progress the city ring accordingly. I don’t know how many pushers I’ve pushed since I’ve gotten into watches, which, mind you, was when I was a child, but this was one of, if not the best, feeling pushers I’ve encountered. It has a perfect, crisp action that is reflected in a snappy and satisfying jump of the hour hand. To ...
Monochrome
Now that the dust has settled after Watches & Wonders, it’s time to cast an eye on an unexpected watch from A. Lange & Söhne. While the trend for more compact case diameters has taken hold of the market, A. Lange & Söhne’s 1815 watch takes a much bolder step with its surprisingly small 34mm […]
Monochrome
In 1891, following a devastating train accident caused by a faulty watch, Cleveland watchmaker Webb C. Ball was called upon to investigate and ultimately standardise timekeeping across America’s growing railroad network. Many think his work laid the foundation for modern chronometry standards. Webb C. Ball, through Ball Time Service, initially certified watches from American brands […]
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SJX Watches
Hermès recently revisited a whimsical complication first introduced some 14 years ago, the Arceau Le Temps Suspendu. Still retaining the quirky “suspended time” complication, the new Arceau Le Temps Suspendu gains a multi-layer, open-worked dial that reveals the interesting mechanics behind the mechanism. And it’s been scaled down slightly to 42 mm thanks to a movement upgrade. Initial thoughts I liked the original Le Temps Suspendu, both in terms of form and function. The complication isn’t practical, but it is unique and appropriate for the elegant, whimsical house style of Hermès. The original was a large watch, and the modestly downsized new version is an improvement. The thinner case is possible thanks to a Vaucher base movement, which is a step up over the ETA 2892 in the original. More notably, the open-worked dial adds substantially to the visual appeal. Besides giving the dial more depth, it reveals the surprisingly complex mechanism devised by Agenhor for Hermès. Though the complication is simple on its face, the mechanics required to pull it off are significant, and now they are on show. And most surprising of all, the new Arceau Le Temps Suspendu costs less than the original from 2011, with the rose gold variants priced a little under US$40,000. This is despite the upgraded base movement and more elaborate dial. It runs counter to prevailing practice in high-end watchmaking, and reflects the generally reasonably pricing of Hermès watches. Suspendin...
Monochrome
The word is out-Tudor is swimming against the current downsizing trend, boldly introducing the new 43mm Black Bay 68 series. First impressions are in, and now all that’s left is to see how the customer responds. Tudor’s reasoning? The brand says it’s about “meeting the demand for various case sizes to fit all types of […]
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Panerai has added a lot of value back into the Luminor Marina line, though there are a few trade-offs.
Monochrome
It seems that the integrated sports watch trend shows no signs of slowing down, and for the most part, we’re not complaining about that. It’s always good to see brands adapt and evolve, and to offer diversity and originality in a sense. Of course, following trends can be risky and time-sensitive, but in today’s industry, […]
SJX Watches
In the run up to Watches & Wonders 2025, many commentators expected a breakout year for the GMT-Master II, since it’s the 80th year of the collection. But Rolex took things in a different direction and dominated headlines by launching the Land-Dweller instead. But Rolex didn’t forget about its signature travel watch, and debuted two new precious metal models. The first is the GMT-Master II ref. 126729VTNR, which is in 18k white gold with a left-handed crown and a green ceramic dial; a first for Rolex. The second is the GMT-Master II ref. 126715CHNR in Everose that brings a new dial material to Rolex, tiger iron, one of the oldest minerals on Earth. Both models are available exclusively with an Oyster bracelet in matching 18k gold. The “lefty” with its glossy green ceramic dial Initial thoughts I admit to being laser-focused on the Land-Dweller during Watches & Wonders; the new movement technology captured (and held) my attention throughout the event. But I still made time to check out the GMT-Master II collection, which was one of my favourite Rolex collections at one point in time. Naturally, both of these new references exude quality, which can be experienced directly in the smooth operation of the bezel and the decisive action of the clasp. The watches are decadent, heavy, and show that Rolex has not run out of ideas for interesting dials. In the case of the green ceramic dial in the “destro” variant, I think we can expect to see this material used more wide...
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SJX Watches
Bulgari made its debut at Watches & Wonders this year, having previously exhibited outside the fair. It was a fitting occasion to launch the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, the thinnest tourbillon watch ever at just 1.85 mm thick. Housed in the brand’s signature matte grey titanium case and limited to just 20 pieces, the Ultra Tourbillon is paired with an equally thin and silky titanium bracelet. Bulgari is deeply invested in its leadership in ultra-thin watchmaking, and the Ultra Tourbillon shows the brand is willing to do whatever it takes to own as many records in this field as possible. Initial thoughts Despite its record-breaking slimness, there was surprisingly little buzz about the Ultra at Watches & Wonders. This may be due to record fatigue, since the previous record was set just last year by the Piaget AUC Tourbillon. It could also be due to the diminishing returns of these types of records, which are now being broken by almost imperceptible margins. On its exterior, the Ultra Tourbillon is quite similar the 1.7 mm-thick Octo Finissimo Ultra introduced last year. It features a 40 mm case made from a combination of titanium and tungsten carbide, and is impressively open-worked, revealing just about every wheel and pinion on the dial side of the watch. But this watch is all about the headline figure of its 1.85 mm thickness, which endows the Ultra Tourbillon with a delicate, almost weightless feel. The case in profile. Image – Bulgari Like all ultra-thin recor...
Worn & Wound
If you’re into watches, then you’re into Abraham-Louis Breguet. One of the founders of modern horology, his innovations set the course of the industry and remain relevant. Whether that’s in terms of his inventions like the tourbillon, the gong-spring, his signature overcoil, self-winding, or shock protection, to name but a few, or in marketing and selling his timepieces, his contributions set many standards. Of these listed, however, marketing and selling seem the least interesting, and yet, Breguet’s “Souscription” model and the watches created as a result, have served as inspiration for several of the modern Breguet brand’s most iconic timepieces. In 2005, the brand launched the Tradition line, bringing escapements to the dial of a wristwatch, and now, the Classique Souscription 2025, celebrating the company’s 250th anniversary. The Souscription concept is one we are all very familiar with, if a slightly different take that suited the times. Upon ordering one of Breguet’s Souscription pieces, a quarter of the total price was paid to cover the parts. A deposit, if you will. The watch was made, and the remaining three-quarters were sent to acquire it. Sounds familiar, though typically we don’t fund the making of individual watches (though sometimes we do). A highly successful campaign that was advertised via a pamphlet, another innovation, it is said that around 700 watches were produced using this model. The concept wasn’t just a method of payment, b...
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Why I sold my original Black Bay Pro and why this new dial is making me reconsider it.
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The French style of watchmaking is having a resurgence, and young names like Cools are leading the charge.
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