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Rolex Unicorns Part I – Ref. 4113 Split-Seconds Chronograph SJX Watches
Zenith Daytonas Oct 10, 2019

Rolex Unicorns Part I – Ref. 4113 Split-Seconds Chronograph

If I had a million dollars, or maybe two, to buy a Rolex chronograph, I could perhaps buy one of the five unique “Zenith” Daytonas in platinum, a Datocompax “Jean-Claude Killy” (as Davide Munari did), a “Paul Newman” Daytona (not), or a ref. 4113 split-seconds. Of the many ways to spend that much money on a Rolex chronograph – and not any other complication – the ref. 4113 is the most unusual, interesting and horologically complex. At the same time, the ref. 4113 was also a dead-end for Rolex, because it never furthered development of the split-second chronograph and instead relied on standard chronographs for all its auto-racing activities. Produced in 1942 in a run of just 12 watches – with case numbers “051’313” to “051’324” -the ref. 4113 is the only split-seconds, or rattrapante, chronograph ever made by Rolex. Phillips will soon sell ref. 4113 with case number “051’318” – the watch pictured here – at its upcoming November watch auction. Ref. 4113 with case number “051’318” The Valjoux 55 inside The racing connection Though formal documentation as to its origins no longer exist or are unknown, the story behind the ref. 4113 is by now familiar thanks to research over the years as examples emerged at auction. In 1991, a pair of these emerged at Christie’s, at its Geneva and London salerooms respectively. The first, with case number was “051’313”, was sold in May 1991 at Christie’s in Geneva for 82,500 Swiss fr...

Business News: Rolex to Replace New York Headquarters with 25-Storey Building SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet museum according Oct 9, 2019

Business News: Rolex to Replace New York Headquarters with 25-Storey Building

A year after the opening of the Rolex Building in Dallas, designed by Japanese architect Kengo Kuma, London-based David Chipperfield Architects just announced it won an international design contest for the new Rolex skyscraper in New York City, beating out big names like Foster+Partners and Bjarke Ingels Group (which designed the new Audemars Piguet museum), according to industry publication Architects’ Journal. “Our team is committed to creating an exemplary building befitting the heritage and culture of the Rolex brand, as well as its prominent 5th Avenue location,” says Mr Chipperfield, speaking in the press announcement. Modernist and fronted entirely in glass, much like the rest of its work, the Chipperfield design will replace the watchmaker’s existing building located at 665 5th Avenue, on the corner with 53rd Street. Originally built for Danish silversmith Georg Jensen in 1924, the 12-storey building was revamped with a glass and aluminium facade when Rolex acquired it in 1977 for its American headquarters. The current Rolex Building, home to the company since the 1970s. Image – Google Maps A rendering of the new Rolex Building. Image – David Chipperfield Architects According to industry lore, the then chief executive of Rolex, Andre Heiniger, decided to buy the 5th Avenue building during a visit to the United States, closing the deal before getting the approval of the company’s board. Heiniger also led Rolex to acquire several dozen lo...

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Marine Torpilleur Monaco Yacht Show SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Introduces Sep 26, 2019

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Marine Torpilleur Monaco Yacht Show

First introduced two years ago as an entry-level model styled on vintage marine chronometers, the Marine Torpilleur has just received an upgrade. The Marine Torpilleur Monaco Yacht Show is a limited edition fitted with a grand feu enamel dial, created to mark the watchmaker’s sponsorship, now in its 11th year, of the annual yachting event in Monte Carlo harbour. While the standard model has a brass dial, the Monaco edition has a three-part dial made of vitreous enamel that’s fired in an oven – a desirable feature that increases its retail price by a modest 20% or so. Like all of Ulysse Nardin’s enamel dials, it is produced by Donze Cadran, a subsidiary of the watchmaker that’s one of the few dial makers in Switzerland able to make fired enamel dials in substantial numbers. An old school dial The dial starts out as a copper disc that is covered with white enamel powder that’s then baked in a small oven, several dials at a go, to melt the enamel and fuse it to the dial. The dial has two apertures for each of the sub-dials, which are separate pieces that are covered in grey enamel and fired separately. After they are fired, the dials are printed with enamel markings, resulting in another trip to the oven to set the markings. Then the apertures on the main dial, as well as the edges of the sub-dials, are filed by hand to ensure a perfect fit with each other. Once complete, the sub-dials are soldered to the main dial. The dial is marked “09.19” – the m...

The Mysterious Rolex Daytona Zenith “Luna Rossa” at Sotheby’s SJX Watches
Zenith Luna Rossa” Sep 23, 2019

The Mysterious Rolex Daytona Zenith “Luna Rossa” at Sotheby’s

The most talked-about watch at Sotheby’s upcoming Important Watches auction in Hong Kong is lot 2300, a Rolex Cosmograph Daytona powered by a Zenith El Primero movement that’s described as “a possibly unique… chronograph wristwatch with a red dial”. And as with all high-profile watches, the auctioneers have given the watch an Italian nickname, “Luna Rossa”, which translates as “red moon”. The reason the “Luna Rossa” is controversial is because such a red dial has never ever been seen before. Usually unicorns are known and whispered about, even if seldom seen, but the “Luna Rossa” has surprised everyone. Experts and insiders I approached have neither encountered nor heard of such a dial, which makes it quite a revelation. But they all agree it is correct – in the sense that all elements are identical to known Rolex dials of the period – though of unknown origin. Sotheby’s itself hasn’t provided much background about the watch, either officially or unofficially. Unlike the unique platinum Daytona “Zenith” that Sotheby’s sold last year, setting a record price for a modern Daytona, which had a backstory that was I managed to uncover, the “Luna Rossa” remains a mystery. The dial is glossy red lacquer, with gold indices and sub-dials When such unusual dials emerge, the immediate question is one of authenticity. The “Luna Rossa” passes the test – the dial is correct in its details. The element usually regarded as crucia...

Longines Introduces the Master Collection Moonphase SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Aug 28, 2019

Longines Introduces the Master Collection Moonphase

Longines’ Master Collection excels at entry-level complications that are affordably priced – last year’s annual calendar is a great buy – and the latest in the range is a moon phase and date. The Master Collection Moonphase is a watch that’s clear in what it wants to to. Aside from the time, it has a pointer date and moon indicators in a sub-dial at six, for a clean and symmetrical dial. The Master Collection Moonphase ref. L2.919.4.78.3 It’s powered by the L899 movement, an automatic based on the ETA A31.L91, which is an upgraded version of the common ETA 2892. The most obvious functional upgrade is the extended 64-hour power reserve, achieved in part by reducing the beat rate of the balance wheel from 4Hz to 3.5Hz. Like many other models in the Master Collection, the new moon phase is offered in two cases sizes – 40mm and 42mm – both in stainless steel. Dial options are silvered barleycorn guilloche, black barleycorn, or sun-ray brushed metallic blue. The smaller, 40mm case is also offered with brilliant-cut diamond hour markers on all dial styles. The Master Collection Moonphase 42mm The ref. L2.909.4.97.0 with diamond markers Key facts Diameter: 40mm or 42mm Material: Stainless steel Water resistance: 30m Movement: L899 Functions: Hours, minutes, second, moon phase and date Winding: Automatic Frequency: 25,200bph, or 3.5Hz Power reserve: 64 hours Strap: Leather strap or steel bracelet Price: US$2,350 for all versions, US$2,750 for the 40...

Solid value, awesome lume – the Ball Engineer Master II Skindiver II Time+Tide
Aug 17, 2019

Solid value, awesome lume – the Ball Engineer Master II Skindiver II

Editor’s note: These days, Ball is a bit of a niche brand, but even though they’re not front of mind, they’re in no danger of fading away, thanks to their exceptional lume. Cam has a look at one of their modern divers, the Ball Engineer Master II Skindiver II. Read on …  The watch industry … ContinuedThe post Solid value, awesome lume – the Ball Engineer Master II Skindiver II appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INSIGHT: The Great Escapement – Explaining the Rolex with an Omega heart Time+Tide
Omega heart It was Jul 26, 2019

INSIGHT: The Great Escapement – Explaining the Rolex with an Omega heart

It was a long time between drinks. An epic 200 years. And both beverages were served in Britain. We are talking about the invention of the lever escapement, the ‘beating heart’ of the mechanical watch, by British clockmaker Thomas Mudge around 1775. The only successful alternative, the co-axial escapement, was unveiled nearly two centuries later … ContinuedThe post INSIGHT: The Great Escapement – Explaining the Rolex with an Omega heart appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Rolex Daytona Orange Sapphires Ref. 116578SACO SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton and Gucci Jul 21, 2019

Hands-On: Rolex Daytona Orange Sapphires Ref. 116578SACO

Those unfamiliar with the world of ultra-bling Rolex watches must wonder – who are they catered to? Dictators? Drug dealers? Nightclub owners? Instagram influencers? But the answer is actually something more common. All of us inevitably know someone like this: the middle-aged man usually in athletic wear by Louis Vuitton and Gucci, and whose idea of formal wear is an embroidered velvet suit from Dolce & Gabbana that resembles curtains from a chateau. He’ll probably drive a super car that is “stickered”, either the whole car wrapped in a matte, metallic finish, or worse, “stickered” with flames and stripes on the sides. Then this gentleman will probably be wearing a watch like this. And if he isn’t, he will really want one. It’s easy to poke fun but the nattily dressed gent is enjoying himself and who can fault that? And so it is with this watch, which has certain, look-at-me appeal that is just calling out to be enjoyed. This is the new and uncommon Daytona ref. 116578SACO with an orange sapphire-set bezel. Cosmograph Daytona ref. 116578SACO Each year Rolex unveils a handful of bejewelled watches that are shown to the press and public at Baselworld – last year’s was the Daytona “rainbow” and this year had the Day-Date “rainbow” – while also releasing a smaller number of gem-set models on the quiet, which are usually only shown to retailers. This year’s hush-hush launches included the GMT-Master II “SARU” in Everose gold, but als...

Remember when that guy bought a broken Rolex-made Panerai at a car boot sale for £10? Time+Tide
Panerai Jun 12, 2019

Remember when that guy bought a broken Rolex-made Panerai at a car boot sale for £10?

Editor’s pick: Whenever I pop into an op shop (or thrift store for our American readers), I always make sure to have a look at the watches, JUST IN CASE. Because you never know, you might just have the level of luck of this guy who, in 2016, picked up a Panerai that turned out … ContinuedThe post Remember when that guy bought a broken Rolex-made Panerai at a car boot sale for £10? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The best watches to wear with black – Part 1, featuring Rolex, Omega, Hublot and Panerai Time+Tide
Panerai It may come as May 12, 2019

The best watches to wear with black – Part 1, featuring Rolex, Omega, Hublot and Panerai

It may come as news to you (but not to our second biggest audience group by city, after Sydney) that people from Melbourne have a thing for wearing black. Some say it’s an inherently arty nature. You never know when you’re going to be invited to a gallery launch, after all. Being from Melbourne, we … ContinuedThe post The best watches to wear with black – Part 1, featuring Rolex, Omega, Hublot and Panerai appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IWC make that luxury yacht life look oh-so-good Time+Tide
IWC make Apr 10, 2019

IWC make that luxury yacht life look oh-so-good

Editor’s note: The Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph might not be the first watch that comes to mind when you think of IWC (it’s not a Pilot for example), but really, maybe you should change that. Just look at Jason’s snaps from our 2018 review.  The story in a second: The sportiest member of the Portugieser family … ContinuedThe post IWC make that luxury yacht life look oh-so-good appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

JLC’s Master Compressor Chronograph Ceramic is the definition of tacticool Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre s SIHH releases it’d Apr 5, 2019

JLC’s Master Compressor Chronograph Ceramic is the definition of tacticool

Editor’s note: Whether you’re a wannabe operator or just in love with the stealth appeal of ceramic, this JLC is pretty much the definition of tacticool, even with the blue details.  Based on the coverage of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s SIHH releases, it’d be fair to assume the brand put out nothing but dressy Reversos this year. Well, that’s … ContinuedThe post JLC’s Master Compressor Chronograph Ceramic is the definition of tacticool appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Andrew’s top 3 Basel 2019 watches between $10,000 and $35,000 inc. Zenith, Bulgari and Rolex Time+Tide
Bulgari Mar 30, 2019

VIDEO: Andrew’s top 3 Basel 2019 watches between $10,000 and $35,000 inc. Zenith, Bulgari and Rolex

I feel that I need to briefly explain when these videos happen, and what’s going on with us at these points in time. They are filmed on our last day at Basel. They are filmed without an autocue (I know, unbelievable!). They are filmed with zero access to any illegal substances. And they ALL contain … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Andrew’s top 3 Basel 2019 watches between $10,000 and $35,000 inc. Zenith, Bulgari and Rolex appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

NEWS: The watches of the US Open, featuring Rolex, Richard Mille and more Time+Tide
Richard Mille Aug 27, 2018

NEWS: The watches of the US Open, featuring Rolex, Richard Mille and more

As we embark on the 50th anniversary edition of the US Open, all eyes are on the new official timepiece of the tennis tournament, Rolex. Rolex is replacing Citizen, which had been a sponsor of the US Open for more than two decades. Rolex is already the official timekeeper of the Australian Open and has … ContinuedThe post NEWS: The watches of the US Open, featuring Rolex, Richard Mille and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: Three times the charm – the Franck Muller Vanguard Master Banker Skeleton Time+Tide
Franck Muller Jul 24, 2018

INTRODUCING: Three times the charm – the Franck Muller Vanguard Master Banker Skeleton

If watch brands were Facebook relationship statuses, Franck Muller would be “It’s complicated”. Not because the Swiss-based manufacturer has commitment problems but, rather, quite the opposite. Since its beginnings in Genthod – located in the countryside of Geneva – the innovative brand has been committed to upholding its reputation as the “Master of Complications”. And … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Three times the charm – the Franck Muller Vanguard Master Banker Skeleton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Vintage style, solid build and lume for days – the Ball Engineer Master II Skindiver II Time+Tide
Casio nally though it’s nice May 28, 2018

HANDS-ON: Vintage style, solid build and lume for days – the Ball Engineer Master II Skindiver II

The watch industry is a well-oiled novelty-making machine. Every year it produces a sea of new releases that quickly turns the tide of attention from the old towards the latest and greatest in the world of watchmaking. Occasionally, though, it’s nice to stop and look back on the watches that we might have missed. Watches … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Vintage style, solid build and lume for days – the Ball Engineer Master II Skindiver II appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

OPINION: Sky-high Rolex prices are the best thing to happen to vintage and modern Omega since Bond Time+Tide
Omega since Bond Last weekend we May 19, 2018

OPINION: Sky-high Rolex prices are the best thing to happen to vintage and modern Omega since Bond

Last weekend we saw Geneva play host to a handful of watch auctions, with the likes of Christie’s, Phillips, and Sotheby’s descending on the city and dropping some hammers. As the dust settled, it yet again became clear that vintage Rolex reigns supreme, with the Daytona Ultimatum sale at Phillips selling all 32 of its lots, … ContinuedThe post OPINION: Sky-high Rolex prices are the best thing to happen to vintage and modern Omega since Bond appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.