Deployant
New: Maurice Lacroix Eliros Sunshine
We take a moment to relax on a Saturday after a hectic week with this release from Maurice Lactroix - the new Eliros Sunshine in a stunning golden hue.
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Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Maurice Lacroix just dropped some affordable luxury sunshine for the wrist
This week we unfortunately do not have any event recaps to share, but today a ray of sunshine dropped for immediate release – so I figured I’d quickly share the deets with you. A watch so gold in tone, Austin Power’s Goldmember would be clamouring to have this watch on his wrist, the Maurice Lacroix … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Maurice Lacroix just dropped some affordable luxury sunshine for the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Kross Studio Introduces the Batman Tourbillon
A start-up that focuses on design and watchmaking, Kross Studio was founded in 2020 but has already rolled out several pop culture-themed watches, including a desk clock in the form of the Batmobile from 1989’s Batman as well as a tourbillon wristwatch modelled the Death Star from Star Wars. Timed to debut just before the premiere of the latest Batman movie, the Batman Tourbillon once again relies on the central tourbillon movement that Kross has used in its past editions, but restyles the tourbillon cage to resemble the “Bat Signal” searchlight. Initial thoughts As was the case with Kross’ earlier watches, the Batman Tourbillon excels in terms of design. Though the brand has launched different editions with the same case and movement, the Batman watch is unique in style and theme. The tourbillon cage, for instance, has been transformed into a distress signal made famous by the “Caped Crusader”. And while the earlier Death Star Tourbillon was equipped with conventional hands, the Batman watch does away with traditional hands, rendering the it much more futuristic. That said, the Batman theme gets in the way of the movement. The Bat Signal frame that sits over the tourbillon obscures an otherwise interesting, oversized central tourbillon. This compromise would be more acceptable if the cage was more figurative and decorative as on the Death Star Tourbillon – where the cage is shaped like the titular planetary laser – which would have made the dial more aes...
Quill & Pad
Silence Is Complicity: How The #WatchFam Is Standing Behind Ukraine
Over the last few days, Dan-Andrei Kluska has watched the news in horror. He has lost sleep, he has cried a lot, and he feels that he has been paralyzed by the eruption of war in Europe. After the first shock wave passed and his tears dried, he started to think about the future and was sincerely fearful because a nuclear war would wipe out humanity as we know it. Here he challenges us all to do something (and some have answered the call).
Time+Tide
This IWC Ingenieur SL designed by Gerald Genta could be yours on Loupe This
As watch enthusiasts progress in their collecting, each proceeding hunt is typically dictated by the box they want to check off next. Brand, complication, sports, dress etc. But serious horology heads often target creations based on their designers, and one designer who has attracted the hearts, minds and wallets of watch buyers around the world … ContinuedThe post This IWC Ingenieur SL designed by Gerald Genta could be yours on Loupe This appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Bindi Block 8 Pinot Noir Australian Wine: A Peacock’s Tail Of Exploding Flavors
There is one Australian winemaker who has not only been extraordinarily consistent, but produced world class Pinot (and Chardonnay), vintage after vintage, across the board: Bindi Wines, thanks to owner and winemaker Michael Dhillon. It would be a brave critic to leave Bindi out of any list of great Aussie Pinots and Ken Gargett rates the small winery among the very top.
Hodinkee
Inside The Design: What Would A Modern Omega Flightmaster Look Like?
We took the problem to an expert. Here’s the result.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Hermès Arceau Space Derby
Unveiled last year as part of Hermes’ annual collection of metiers d’art watches, the Arceau Space Derby is typical Hermes with its equestrian motif, but also strikingly different since the dial depicts a jockey riding a robot horse past planets and stars. The Space Derby is actually a pair of watches, a smaller one for ladies with the dial in pink opaline glass, and a larger model for men with an aventurine glass dial that is detailed below. But both have a similar motif on the dial that was taken from an Hermes scarf designed by French filmmaker and cartoonist Ugo Bienvenu. The larger, 41 mm Space Derby Initial thoughts Hermes adapts many of its most famous scarves for metiers d’art watches. Most of the resulting dials are whimsical and subtle in a manner typical of the brand. And Hermes does more of such watches, both in terms of range as well as number, than its immediate rivals Louis Vuitton and Chanel. The diversity of its offerings with artisanal dials is impressive in both style and technique – though horses, big cats, and birds are recurring themes – but even so the Space Derby is unique. While the theme of the Space Derby is still equestrian, it is has a pop art aspect that sets it apart from the usual metiers d’art fare from Hermes. So it’s still recognisably an Hermes watches, but a bit more funky and very much different. But the Space Derby is more than just a fancy dial. As is increasingly the case with fashion and leather goods brands, it is eq...
Revolution
Introducing the Jacob & Co. Epic X Chrono Tourbillon Blue Titanium
Jacob & Co. translates its larger-than-life persona into an athletic timepiece that is also built to go where few as glamorous dare to tread.
Time+Tide
WATCH ANALYTICS WEDNESDAYS: Is the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph seriously undervalued?
Editor’s Note: We recently partnered with @watchanalytics to crunch the numbers and dig into the horological market trends and value fluctuations for the references that matter. Last time, we delved into how Omega Speedmaster Limited Editions are rocketing in value. Today we are going to dive into the market status of first generation A. Lange & … ContinuedThe post WATCH ANALYTICS WEDNESDAYS: Is the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph seriously undervalued? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Available in the shop: The sun-kissed, seductive Reservoir × Revolution Hydrosphere Bronze ‘Maldives Edition’
The retrograde Reservoir × Revolution Hydrosphere Bronze’ Maldives Edition’ is a breath of fresh air in a world of stuffy dive watches. Add bronze and golden tones to the already unusual configuration and that fresh air takes on a distinctly tropical flavour.
SJX Watches
Exhibition: Early Lange Wristwatches at Phillips Perpetual in London
The watch boutique arm of auctioneer Phillips, London-based Perpetual is staging an exhibition of early A. Lange & Söhne wristwatches in its Berkeley Square showroom for a week starting March 9, 2022. Made in Germany, a Tribute to the Early Lange 1 and Datograph comprises 20 examples of Lange’s best-known watches from the late 1990s to the early 2000s, including limited editions that rarely emerge publicly, making it an great opportunity for the brand’s enthusiasts to see special watches and even “grails” in the metal, like the extravagant Lange 1A. Pillars of the brand Arguably the most important Lange models, at least in the brand’s first two decades, are the Lange 1 and Datograph. Both were seminal when they each made their debuts in 1994 and 1999 respectively, helping to put the brand on the map. And because early days of the German watchmaker saw it debut a large number of small-run limited editions, the variety of watches from that period is particularly interesting. Lange 1A The rise in interest that Lange has recently enjoyed means many of the brand’s early or unusual watches are being rediscovered. As a result, the exhibition is perfectly timed. It focuses on the two landmark models, although the line up also includes other intriguing watches like the rare solid-back Saxonia. One of the best examples of the Lange 1 on show is the ref. 101.027X, which has a handsome blue-on-silver palette that served as the inspiration for the Lange 1 25th annivers...
Time+Tide
Disillusioned with the prices at auctions? Check out this full set of Seiko “Monaco” chronographs on this novel auction site
Editor’s note: Brendan Cunningham is a Professor of Economics at Eastern Connecticut State University in the US and the man behind Horolonomics, a blog that explores the economic issues in watchmaking. Over the last five years or so, the luxury watch auction market seems to have grown more and more inaccessible for many collectors. Economist Stephen … ContinuedThe post Disillusioned with the prices at auctions? Check out this full set of Seiko “Monaco” chronographs on this novel auction site appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
IN-DEPTH: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon
The average person thinking of Louis Vuitton will have a lot of inspiration from which to draw their impressions. Between the $4000 handbags, $700 T-shirts, and even $1000 bucket hats, the image that Louis Vuitton paints is a surprisingly broad spectrum of wealth across high-fashion and streetwear. Leather goods, fragrances, clothing and eyewear are just … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Revives the Retro-Digital Casquette of 1976
Very much a genre that took off in the 1970s, the digital-display quartz watch was invented by American watch company Hamilton in 1970 – and positioned as a high-end watch at the time – and over the following decades various watchmakers from Europe and Asia have presented their own takes on the digital watch, though it is the latter that has come to dominate the market. One of the more memorable was the Girard-Perregaux ref. 9931 “Casquette” of 1976 that was especially sci-fi with its aerodynamic design. But after a brief production run it vanished from the brand’s catalogue until a surprising comeback last year with a unique, modernised version made for charity auction Only Watch 2021. And now Girard-Perregaux (GP) has finally taken the covers off the Casquette 2.0, which replicates the style of the original but with updated tech and materials, namely a ceramic and titanium case along with a new movement. Initial thoughts The Casquette 2.0 is a remake done well. It retains the appealing design of the vintage original, which was a good looking but dinky watch, and instead channels resources to improving the construction and functions. The new scratch-resistant ceramic case and bracelet demonstrates GP’s effort in a thoughtfully improved remake, especially since similarly priced watches tend to rely on black-coated steel. At the same time, the watch has improved in its function. It gains a chronograph and a second time zone, both of which are rudimentary but n...
Deployant
Review: IWC Portugieser Minute Repeater Ref. IW5242-02. Old but gold.
The year 1995 was as eventful as it gets. It was the year the first Toy Story movie was released, the year Operation Desert Storm officially ended, and it was the last time AFC Ajax won the UEFA Champions League. It also marked the debut of a classic IWC timepiece: the original Portugieser Minute RepeaterRead More
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The Héron Gladiateur delivers tough, Spartan looks elevated by a cracker of a bezel
How on earth can anyone be expected to choose their next watch these days? It almost seems like there are hundreds of new Kickstarter microbrands popping up each month, each with their own unique quirks that make them seem irresistible to people wanting to fill niches in a collection. Héron Watches are a refreshing change-up, … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Héron Gladiateur delivers tough, Spartan looks elevated by a cracker of a bezel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Rolf Lang Combines Lalique Crystal and a Hand-Made Tourbillon in a Table Clock
German independent watchmaker Rolf Lang produces both wristwatches and clocks – including a lavish gold egg containing a marine chronometer – and he now turns to French glassmaker Lalique for his latest sculptural clock. Their collaboration resulted in the Phoenix Clock that is entirely hand engraved and equipped with a gigantic tourbillon – held aloft by a glass-crystal sculpture of a soaring eagle with wings spread. Rolf Lang Initial thoughts Like the ultra-luxe egg clock of 2018, the Phoenix is appealing for its strong design and craftsmanship. The father of independent watchmaker Marco Lang, Rolf Lang’s house style is highly decorative and rooted in 19th century watchmaking so the aesthetic means the clock is not for everyone, but it is certainly impressive for those who appreciate what it is. With its ornate decoration, the Phoenix evokes the elaborate clocks and watches made for the Chinese market in the 19th century. It has an old-fashioned style and quality that stands in contrast with most contemporary watchmaking. And the clock excels at what it does, which is to impress while sitting on a desk. Still, it manages to be different and slightly modern as a result of the to the clever use of high-contrast materials. The crystal sculpture is splendid, and the clock itself is even more attractive with the ultra-large tourbillon sitting in full view under a glass sphere. While it has a big price tag, the Phoenix is special; there are nothing quite like it ...
Time+Tide
Time flies: The best travel watches from the last 12 months
What’s travel, I hear you ask? Believe it or not, there’s an activity which means you can leave your home, and go somewhere else! Sadly, that’s an opportunity that many of us have been denied over the last couple of years due to Covid, but now the world is open again, it’s time to dust … ContinuedThe post Time flies: The best travel watches from the last 12 months appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Five takeaways from my time with the Tutima M2 Seven Seas S
There are multiple categories of watches out there. Dress, casual, chronograph, pilot; each with their own look and prerequisite capabilities. And with these options on the table, you’ll find many collectors simply pick one and begin scouring the internet for a brand’s interpretation of the category. It’s at this point that a good brand displays … ContinuedThe post Five takeaways from my time with the Tutima M2 Seven Seas S appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Vanessa Redgrave’s Rolex Reference 5513 Submariner With Explorer Dial: Should It Be The Female ‘Paul Newman’ Daytona? – Reprise
Are there special vintage watch dial variations named after notable women in a vein similar to that of the Paul Newman Rolex Daytona? Nick Gould was wondering just that and researched. Finding a photo of Vanessa Redgrave wearing a Rolex Submariner Reference 5513 with "Explorer" dial in 1966, he ruefully opines that this rare model would sound so much cooler as the Rolex "Vanessa Redgrave" Submariner rather than what collectors call it now: Rolex Reference 5513 Submariner with Explorer dial.
Hodinkee
Weekend Edition: Charting The Course Of Iconic Watches, One Reference At A Time
All the minute details fit to print – and view.
Time+Tide
Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #2 Notable Names
Last week we launched our first ever Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword, and based on your feedback you guys were really happy with it – which makes us all here at Time+Tide very happy. As promised, this is not a one and done. Each week, we will post a new crossword for you all to solve … ContinuedThe post Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #2 Notable Names appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Nomos Introduces the Tangente Neomatik “Platinum Gray”
One of the four original models that Nomos launched as its inaugural collection in 1992, the Tangente is the brand’s longest-running model, having grown both literally and metaphorically – the case has expanded from a tiny 35 mm to today’s 41 mm, while the line has grown to include dozens of models. Now the Glashütte watchmaker has just given the automatic model an update to create the Tangente Neomatik “Platinum Gray” with a restrained dial that has a subtly sparkling grained finish and a case available in either 35 mm or 39 mm. Initial thoughts Despite being a simple iteration of an existing model, the Platinum Gray is a pleasing addition to the range. The highlight is the elegant dial, which calls to mind another watch made in Nomos’ hometown, the platinum Lange 1 nicknamed “Stealth” for its silver-on-silver palette. But the Tangente is clearly different – and far more affordable – as it looks less formal with its large Arabic numerals (and ironically the typography was inspired by vintage Lange wristwatches). Like other recent Nomos watches, the Platinum Gray is a variation on a theme – essentially just a new dial – which makes it repetitive. The lack of innovation or novelty can leave Nomos feeling unexciting at times, though the strong design identity and affordability of the brand remains appealing, as does its affordability. With a price tag that starts at US$3,070 and rises to US$3,780 depending on the case size and back, the Platinum ...
Quill & Pad
For The Sake Of Sake: A Primer With Tasting Notes – Reprise
Basically, sake comprises rice, water, and the fermenting agent called koji, resulting in an alcoholic level that usually sits between 13 and 16 percent. And you might be interested to know that the rice used is different from the standard table rice so popular with Japanese food. Ken Gargett takes a deep dive into what sake is, what types of sake are available, and whether you should drink it warm (like James Bond) or cold. Kampai!
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Worn & Wound 10th anniversary party and zero gravity Zenith
Hey there Time+Tide readers, This is Ricardo and I’m going to hijack Zach’s Friday Wind Down to broadcast this urgent message. WATCH MEETUPS ARE BACK BABY! This past week, the pandemic stars aligned and I was able to safely attend the release party for Worn and Wound’s 10-year anniversary piece; a Seiko 5 pilot watch. … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Worn & Wound 10th anniversary party and zero gravity Zenith appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Lustau 125th Anniversary Sherry: Spanish Liquid Gold
To celebrate its 125th anniversary in 2021, Lustau released a set of three special sherries at the end of last year. These only come as a set, and there are only 2,500 bottles of each of the trio. Beautifully packaged, they have never been seen before, and they represent not only the history and the very DNA of Lustau, but also the three towns of the sherry triangle with one wine from each. Ken Gargett thinks that for sherry lovers these are an absolute must.
Time+Tide
HANDS ON: The NOMOS Tangente neomatik platinum grey is a monochrome twist on Bauhaus style
Synonymous with high quality and original design, NOMOS serves up an update to one of their most emphatically Bauhaus designs. This pairing of Tangente models showcases the new platinum grey dial colour, which adds welcome variety to the line-up of mostly white and blue offerings thus far. Tangente – Bauhaus personified Famously conceived by Walter … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The NOMOS Tangente neomatik platinum grey is a monochrome twist on Bauhaus style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
The Modern Dress Code
The Nomos Tangente neomatik 39 platinum gray is a refined dress watch with an extra slim profile thanks to the in-house manufacture caliber DUW 3001 movement.
Time+Tide
OPINION: Why you should experiment more with aftermarket bracelets
I’m at the beach in Sydney and the sun is beating down. I hop across painfully hot sand – yelping – to plunge into the ocean. I check the time. My Tudor indicates it’s a little past one. Just for fun I pull on the underside of the watch bracelet, it stretches out like freshly … ContinuedThe post OPINION: Why you should experiment more with aftermarket bracelets appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.