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Time+Tide
It’s all very well and good having a mainstay, go-to timepiece that you can rely on for daily duties Monday to Friday, but what happens if you want to change it up for the weekend? For most enthusiasts, the criteria for watches worn on Saturday and Sunday are very different to that of a weekday-warrior: … ContinuedThe post 4 banging weekend watches for under $500 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
We recently received a message from a reader considering buying a stainless steel Rolex Daytona with ceramic bezel. He seems to have found a nice piece, box and papers, unworn, at a (seemingly) reasonable price. However, he asks, is it sensible to buy at double the retail price?
Time+Tide
With the watchmaking industry’s famed awards ceremony, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève - or as it’s more commonly known, GPHG - fast approaching, we thought we’d mention a few more nominated watches that you should be keeping an eye on. Now, we’ve already covered a host of brilliant timepieces from Bulgari and Zenith that have been … ContinuedThe post 3 of the best ladies watches at GPHG appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Grand Seiko has expanded their offerings of ladies watches with two new additions to their Elegance Collection – the Grand Seiko STGK011 and STGK013. The bezel-less beauties have drawn inspiration from the Japanese watchmaker’s original sans-bezel timepiece, the Grand Seiko 62GS, which was first unveiled in 1967. And, to really dial up the glitz, the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko STGK011 & STGK013 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
The Sixties line presents legendary 1960s design and embodies the art of Glashütte watchmaking, whose traditions date back to 1845. It was only in 2018 that the popular line saw the first of its striking annual editions. For its annual edition 2019, the German manufactory presents the Sixties and Sixties Panorama Date in multi-faceted orange.
Quill & Pad
The era of the master visionary and maker may be dead and gone in many other industries, but to create a beautiful watch, like composing a beautiful string quartet, you need a Beethoven, a Haydn, or a Brahms not a committee of brainstormers dreaming up target groups. Paul Gerber is up there with the giants, and Marton Radkai explains why.
Time+Tide
To the uninitiated, it may come as a surprise to learn that watches can actually do a fair bit more than merely tell you what time it is. In fact, the myriad complications that can currently be housed inside a timepiece are actually a little bit staggering when you stop to think about it. Weekly … ContinuedThe post Top 3 watches that could save your life appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
The Bamford Watch Department has collaborated with Zenith to create a retro-futurist Chronomaster inspired by archive pieces and radar.
SJX Watches
Nineteen-sixty nine was a watershed year in watchmaking – the culmination of the race for the world’s first automatic chronograph. It was a three-way contest between two Swiss watchmakers and one from Japan. Both Swiss movements – the Zenith El Primero and the Heuer-Breitling-Buren-Dubois-Depraz Caliber 11 – have enjoyed a following to this day, but the third – the Seiko 6139 Speedtimer – remains relatively obscure as it went out of production in 1979. The 6139 was a single-register chronograph with a 30-minute totaliser at six o’clock and a quickset day-date display. Crucially, it had a column wheel and vertical clutch. And an even lesser known fact is that Seiko produced its first chronograph – the “Crown” with a column-wheel and mono-pusher – just five years before, in 1964 to coincide with that year’s Tokyo Olympic Games. In short, the 1960s were a major decade for Seiko in terms of chronographs. The Seiko “Crown” chronograph of 1964 with its characteristic black plastic bezel Hence, to mark the 50th anniversary of its first automatic chronograph, as well as the 55th anniversary of its first chronograph, Seiko has unveiled a pair of limited editions, both chronographs, naturally. The two editions are each limited to 1000 pieces and powered by the same calibre, the in-house cal. 8R48 that was introduced in 2014. The first and the more modern looking of the two, is the Prospex 50th Anniversary Automatic Chronograph ref. SRQ029. I...
SJX Watches
When Jaeger-LeCoultre first introduced the Gyrotourbillon in 2004, it was an incredibly exciting watch, and arguably marked the high water mark of Jaeger-LeCoultre as a maker of contemporary complications. Fifteen years on, the Gyrotourbillon has cycled through many iterations, most more complex or sophisticated than the original but none quite as revelatory. Variants include the compact and slightly more affordable Reverso Tribute Gyrotourbillon and the more recent Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpetuel. The latest to join the line-up is the Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3 Meteorite, which is a third generation model dressed up with fired enamel, meteorite and aventurine. The chronograph sub-dial and digital counter are at nine o’clock, with the day-night display at three One of the most complicated versions of the Gyrotourbillon, the Gyrotourbillon 3 combines the double-axis tourbillon with a single-button chronograph with digital, instantaneous 60-minute counter as well as a day and night display. The tourbillon features two spherical , aluminium cages containing a cylindrical hairspring in the centre. The cages rotate in opposing directions and at a different rates, working to eliminate the gravitational errors caused by the changing position of the wearer’s wrist. And more importantly, it’s a compelling visual spectacle on the idea. Space rock and artisanal craft The sub-dial for the time at 12 o’clock features a meteorite centre ringed by an ...
SJX Watches
Tudor is taking part in Only Watch for the third time, but the watchmaker has arguably created its most unique timepiece to date for the biennial charity auction. While Tudor’s earlier Only Watch were variants of existing models, first the Heritage Black Bay One and then the Black Bay Bronze One, the Black Bay Ceramic One is wholly different from all current (and past) watches, it is a piece unique. Announced just a few weeks before the similarly all-black Black Bay Chrono Dark limited edition, the Black Bay Ceramic One is essentially Tudor’s signature dive watch, but with a black ceramic case. Though Tudor does have ceramic watches in the line-up, namely the usually forgotten Fastrider Black Shield, the material has not been used for the bestselling Black Bay, until now. Though the watch is entirely unique, the look is a fairly common one – all-black, everywhere. That being said, it’s an attractive one, especially for a dive watch like this. The dial is done in different textures and shades of black for legibility. So the markings on the dial are printed in glossy black lacquer to distinguish them from the matte black dial surface. And the Super-Luminova is also black, or more specifically standard Super-Luminova with pigments added for colour, which diminishes the green night-time glow substantially. While that’s not a practical look for an actual dive watch, it is a cool look for a “desk diver”. The bezel continues the shades-of-black colour schem...
Quill & Pad
The top six Aussie reds? Ken Gargett thinks that most lists would include Penfolds Grange, Henschke Hill of Grace, and Bass Philip Reserve Pinot Noir, though such is its rarity (and price) that it tends to be more talked about than tasted. But there's one under-the-radar wine from the Canberra area that should also be on that list: Clonakilla's sensational Shiraz Viognier.
Time+Tide
Over the last few years, Seiko’s Presage collection has earned something of a reputation for excellence in enamel, with a quick succession of hot watches with fired dials. And while in the past these pieces have leant towards complexity, SJE075 and SJE077 simplify things a little, and serve as contrasting tributes to the original Seiko … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Classical elegance shines in the Seiko Presage SJE075 and SJE077 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Audemars Piguet have once again stunned everyone with their latest full-ceramic piece of timekeeping wonderment – the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked. Showcasing the Swiss marque’s ceramic prowess, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar’s 41mm black ceramic case and conforming bracelet are finished to exquisite detail, and feature both brushed and polished elements. And … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Most of the time we spend talking about Bulgari at the moment is dedicated to the gorgeous Octo, which, if I’m frank, makes perfect sense. But that’s far from the only arrow in Bulgari’s gem-set quiver. On the more feminine side of the fence there’s also the venerable (and not at all venomous) Serpenti, which … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The snakelike excellence of the Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Some of the coolest and cultiest of vintage Seiko watches are their calibre 5719 monopusher chronographs, released to coincide with the Tokyo Olympics of 1964 (an event for which Seiko were the official timekeepers btw). These watches didn’t look much like a chronograph, with only a single seconds hand and a bidirectional bezel to track … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko Chronograph 55th Anniversary - SRQ031J appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The last time Audemars Piguet had a skeletonised Royal Oak perpetual calendar in the catalogue, it was 2015. The skeleton perpetual is familiar enough that it doesn’t seem to have been missing for that long, but it’s been a half-decade. In the mean time, Audemars Piguet (AP) unveiled the next generation of Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, with the case widened to 41mm, and then introduced it in black ceramic, and only just, in white ceramic. And it took some time to develop the thinnest automatic perpetual calendar ever. But now the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked is back, in proper, fine form. Putting a skeleton movement inside the bestselling Royal Oak in black ceramic is obvious, and could have been done in the easiest way possible. But AP went one better; it developed a new calibre, the 5135, that is not merely open-worked, but also redesigned for maximum aesthetic effect. “This is the first time in many years that AP has introduced an openworked perpetual calendar wristwatch,” says Michael Friedman, the head of complications at AP, “The effort here was to create an experience of contrast and play of light.” I’d say AP succeeded. The watch pictured is a travelling prototype, so pardon the cleanliness of the movement Ceramic and the Royal Oak But first, a small, modestly technical digression on the material and the watch. The case and bracelet are made of black ceramic, specifically zirconium oxide stabilised with yttrium oxide – essential for...
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Who knew that a fully white ceramic open-worked watch would be one of this year’s freshest looks? No one, that’s who. But that’s OK, a surprise hit wouldn’t be a surprise if everyone saw it coming. Which is somewhat ironic as everyone will see you coming if you’re rocking this bad girl on … ContinuedThe post White light – the Zenith Defy Classic in white ceramic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
If you’ve ever picked up a glossy magazine or attended a major sporting event it should come as no surprise to learn that marketing is hugely significant in the world of watches. It’s also hugely expensive, competitive and, all-too-often, dull. From awkward posed photographs with A-list celebrities, to baffling brand ambassadors and the most tenuous … ContinuedThe post The Moser method – smart marketing in a social age with the Pioneer Tour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Have you ever had a real snake wrap itself around your wrist? If not, I urge you to do so. Really. It’s a wonderful sensation. If you have, you will know exactly what I mean. It feels amazingly sensuous. Gentle, warm, almost fluid. And those were pretty much my first impressions when I tried on … ContinuedThe post Temptation strikes with Bulgari’s Serpenti Seduttori appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
With this year being the 50th anniversary of its defining movement, Zenith has unveiled several limited editions to mark the occasion, including a three-piece set and a remake of the El Primero A386 in 18k gold. Now the ultimate anniversary watch has just been announced: the one-of-a-kind El Primero A386 in platinum with a lapis lazuli dial, and a 50-year warranty. This one-off watch – it’s marked as such on the case back – was designed in collaboration with Phillips, the auctioneer led by Livia Russo and Aurel Bacs. And the watch will be sold by Phillips in November, with all proceeds going to a Swiss charity that helps children with cancer. It’s the first ever El Primero in platinum, and also the first with a lapis lazuli dial. Commenting in the announcement, Zenith chief executive Julien Tornare states unequivocally: “This will be the first and sole El Primero in platinum.” Materials aside, the rest of the watch is identical to the standard A386 remake. The case is 38mm, fitted with sapphire crystals front and back, while the movement is the El Primero 400. Key facts Diameter: 38mm Material: Platinum Water resistance: 50m Dial: Lapis lazuli Movement: El Primero 400 Functions: Time, chronograph, date Frequency: 36,000bph, or 5Hz Winding: Automatic Power reserve: 50 hours Strap: Blue calfskin Price and availability The Zenith El Primero A386 in platinum will be sold at the Geneva Watch Auction: X that takes place on November 9-10, 2019. It has n...
SJX Watches
The epic Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Singapore 2019 was massive not just in scale and numbers, but also in the Patek Philippe executives who travelled halfway across the world from Geneva to Singapore just for the event. All of the company’s top management is the town for the event, including president Thierry Stern, chief executive Claude Peny, and commercial director Jerome Pernici. But perhaps the most interesting personality for a hardcore watch geek is Dr Peter Friess, curator of the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva. A studied man who’s spent his life in museums and cultural institutions, Dr Friess is an art historian by training but also a true horologist. He’s the sort of guy who gets deeply excited over the “new old stock” 369-year old Cremsdorff pocket watch the museum recently acquired, and is familiar with the catgut used in 16th century chain and fusee mechanisms. Dr Peter Friess at the Singapore exhibition, with a portrait of Antoine Norbert de Patek behind him The first ever Patek Philippe wristwatch; importantly, it was not conceived as a bangle with a pendant watch movement bolted on, instead it is a timepiece for the wrist Unsurprisingly, the German native is also a professional watch- and clockmaker. Dr Friess joined the Patek Philippe Musuem as Director and Curator exactly seven years ago. Before that, he was President of the Tech Museum of Innovation in California, as well as a curator at the Smithsonian where he put tog...
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: This interview is an old one, from SIHH 2015, and the Harmony is a watch that isn’t a massive focus for Vacheron Constantin right now, but the brand’s Creative Director, Mr Christian Selmoni, is one of the most articulate and interesting creative minds in the watch business, and definitely worth a read, especially … ContinuedThe post Vacheron Constantin’s Creative Director Christian Selmoni on harmonious watch design appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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There is no designer in the watch game like Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani. He is sketching, pardon the millennial turn of phrase here, literally all of the time. When he’s being interviewed. When he’s in a room by himself waiting to be interviewed (I disturbed him in the act as I was early). And, you suspect, … ContinuedThe post “Even more style than the titanium” – the black ceramic Bulgari Octo Finissimo explained by its designer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Revolution Founder Wei Koh speaks to Patek Philippe President Thierry Stern about the motivations behind the travelling Patek Philippe Watch Art Exhibition.
SJX Watches
Acclaimed in ancient literature and collectible today, swords made by the Gassan school trace their lineage back centuries, as is only possible in Japan. The school originated some 800 years ago, dating back to the early Kamakura period, approximately the 13th century. It started at the base of Mount Gassan, the highest of a trio of sacred mountains in what is now Yamagata prefecture. Though the school became dormant sometime in the 16th century, it was revived sometime in the mid 1800s by a descendant of the Gassan family in Osaka. The revival was successful and the Gassan school made swords for several Japanese emperors in the 19th and 20th century. Six generations on, the Gassans continue their craft with Sadanobu Gassan, and his father, Sadatoshi, now based in the city of Sakurai in Nara prefecture, about six hours southwest of Tokyo. At Baselworld 2019, Casio announced its collaboration with Sadanobu Gassan to create the G-Shock MR-G “Gassan” MRG-G2000GA, which has key parts of the case and bracelet finished by Mr Gassan himself in his workshop. In essence, it links the Gassan family’s eight hundred centuries of tradition with the latest in Japanese timekeeping technology. We got in touch with Mr Gassan to discuss his work for G-Shock, and also the state of his ancient craft. The interview has been edited and condensed. The G-Shock MR-G “Gassan” MRG-G2000GA What made you want to continue in your family’s footsteps? At a young age, I witnessed my...
Time+Tide
The Franck Muller Vanguard Crazy Hours landed in Melbourne last week, and not only was I fortunate to take a closer look at it, but the kind people at Franck Muller invited me to celebrate it with them at a dining event with some of their important local clients. It was a great opportunity to … ContinuedThe post EVENT: A Crazy few Hours with Franck Muller in Melbourne appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Why watches? Ask what makes a watch enthusiast tick and the idea of the “soul” of a watch might well feature in the response – the idea that something elevates the watch from a cold object of engineering to something of greater import. Here Ryan Schmidt tracks "soul" down and gets contemplative on its nature along with some very special imagery.
Time+Tide
Hublot has teamed up with the initiative Save Our Rhino Africa/India (SORAI) to create the fetching, limited edition Hublot Big Bang Unico SORAI. Stylised to mimic the tonal colours of Africa’s vast bush land, the new Big Bang Unico SORAI’s 45mm case is finished in microblasted beige ceramic, as is the watch’s bezel. Providing a … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Unico SORAI appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Paying homage to a man widely regarded as the father of modernism, Le Corbusier (Charles-Édouard Jeanneret), Rado’s stunning range of True Thinline Les Couleurs Le Corbusier could definitely be worth a look as your next summer watch. Le Corbusier, the visionary Swiss designer, architect and writer, created the concept of Architectural Polychromy – a palette … ContinuedThe post The Rado True Thinline Les Couleurs Le Corbusier appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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