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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Gyre Introduces the SeaCleaner SJX Watches
Seiko movement that’ll do what May 11, 2020

Gyre Introduces the SeaCleaner

Gyre Watch is a watch brand that offers an affordable, fun dive watch that supports a good cause. Founded by Dutch watch journalist Bernard Werk, the brand is making its debut with the Gyre SeaCleaner. An affordable, no-nonsense sports watch with a solar-powered movement, the SeaCleaner has a case and strap made from recycled ocean waste – with part of the proceeds from its sale going to an ocean cleanup charity. Initial thoughts Bold in its contrasting-colour scheme, the SeaCleaner has brightly-coloured accents in green, blue or black, and a large, 42 mm cushion case that’s reminiscent of 1970s dive watches, giving it a retro vibe. Inside is a robust Seiko movement that’ll do what it’s supposed to do. In short, the SeaCleaner is tried-and-tested look that works well for a sports watch and it costs only about US$200. Environmentally supportive Gyre will donate 5% of sales to The Ocean Cleanup – a Dutch NGO that is working to remove plastic waste from the oceans. And with both the straps and cases made of recycled material, the watches themselves will contribute to the cleanup. The black plastic cases are made from recycled fishing nets, which are mostly made of plastic. Collected by fishermen around the Indian Ocean – Gyre pays the fishermen for the nets – the discarded nets are cleaned and turned into plastic pellets that are then moulded into the cases. Unlike many all-black watch cases that are done that way for aesthetic effect, the composite derive...

MICRO MONDAYS: Briston Watches & the Clubmaster Diver Time+Tide
May 11, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: Briston Watches & the Clubmaster Diver

Editor’s note: It’s somehow Monday again, and while that would normally mean feelings of malaise and discontent, since this pandemic shifted into top gear and lockdowns now rule the lay of the land, Mondayitis isn’t really a thing anymore. Which is good, because the start of the working week also means it’s Micro Monday, and … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Briston Watches & the Clubmaster Diver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces May 10, 2020

Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster Revival “Shadow”

Unlike last year’s El Primero A384 Revival that was a one-for-one remake of the vintage original, the latest A384-based watch is a modern creation inspired by a vintage prototype. The Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” takes it monochromatic colours from a 1970 prototype that had a large, 41 mm case in black-coated steel. It had an entirely look and feel, but the black-and-white colour have been applied to the Shadow with striking effect. Initial thoughts The Shadow adopts a look often found in sports watch, but it’s an effective, functional look. And Zenith was smart with the details, streamlining the dial for a clean, stark look. The outer seconds track and date, for instance, have both been done away with, and the tachymetric scale has been simplified. That does affect functionality – elapsed seconds can’t be measured – but it’s an attractive look. And the micro-blasted case finish is relatively delicate, since even the tiniest nick or scratch will stand out against the matte, grained surface, but it’s a perfect fit for the design. Overall the Shadow is a good alternative for someone who likes the A385 case shape, but wants a clean, modern style instead of a faithful vintage remake. Vintage inspiration The Shadow is a blend of modern and vintage elements. The 37 mm case is identical in size and form as the A385, but unlike the A385 case that is in steel, this is in micro-blasted titanium. It’s same material used for the case of the Defy 21 Land Rover. Cre...

You voted on Ellen DeGeneres and Trevor Noah’s watches, and the winner is…. Time+Tide
May 10, 2020

You voted on Ellen DeGeneres and Trevor Noah’s watches, and the winner is….

The obvious disclaimer in Celebrity Watch Death Match is that we usually choose a small slice of each celebrity’s collection to put in the ring for the matchups. The fights are as close to pound for pound as we can manage. The celebrity’s broader collection may win the war for them, but – as we … ContinuedThe post You voted on Ellen DeGeneres and Trevor Noah’s watches, and the winner is…. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Mythical Stainless Steel A. Lange & Söhne Tourbillon Pour Le Mérite – Reprise Quill & Pad
A. Lange & Sohne May 10, 2020

The Mythical Stainless Steel A. Lange & Söhne Tourbillon Pour Le Mérite – Reprise

There is little more mythical in the world of horology than the existence of a handful of stainless steel watches by A. Lange & Söhne, a brand that only officially makes its timepieces housed in luxurious precious metals. And the unique piece Tourbillon Pour le Mérite in stainless steel is perhaps the rarest of them all. Read on to find out more about this collector's item.

The thin and the bling: The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept and Piaget Limelight Time+Tide
Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept May 9, 2020

The thin and the bling: The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept and Piaget Limelight

This year, Piaget has focused on the two strengths that most clearly define the Maison: on one hand, ultra-thin men’s watches (taken to their most technically demanding extreme) and on the other, boldly designed and extravagantly gem-set women’s watches. Altiplano Ultimate Concept Nobody could reasonably dispute that this insanely thin new watch is quite mind-blowing. … ContinuedThe post The thin and the bling: The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept and Piaget Limelight appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Grand Prix de Monaco Historique SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces May 9, 2020

TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Grand Prix de Monaco Historique

Having been appointed official timekeeper of the Grand Prix de Monaco Historique just before it was cancelled due to the COVID-19 pandemic, TAG Heuer has nonetheless unveiled the watch created for the event – the Monaco Grand Prix de Monaco Historique Limited Edition. Initial thoughts TAG Heuer has a bewildering array of Monaco models in its line up, several of which look identical but are actually powered by different movements. It’s difficult to distinguish between them, making them individually less interesting. Set against that, the new Monaco is a standout watch with a two-tone, red-and-silver dial. The dial is essentially a circle within a square, and its subsidiary seconds at six has been made to blend into the dial, creating a strong, concise symmetry. Importantly, it is powered by the in-house and thoroughly competent Calibre Heuer 02 movement, rather than the ETA 2892-based Calibre 12 found in other Monaco models. Red and white Organised by the Automobile Club de Monaco (ACM), Grand Prix de Monaco Historique is an annual racing event that traditionally takes place before the Formula One Grand Prix. Only vintage Grand Prix cars, typically dating from the 1930s to the 1970s, take part in the event. The common red-and-white livery common on historical race cars inspired the dial of the new Monaco, which also happens to be in the colours of the Monegasque coat of arms. And the dial also includes a discreet Grand Prix de Monaco Historique logo in between one an...

Conor McGregor’s new Patek Philippe with an Irish twist is the green-dialled platinum PP of dreams Time+Tide
Patek Philippe May 8, 2020

Conor McGregor’s new Patek Philippe with an Irish twist is the green-dialled platinum PP of dreams

Irish-born mixed martial artist and boxer Conor McGregor is known for his time spent in the Ultimate Fighting Championship (UFC), where he was the featherweight and lightweight champion. He also fought boxer Floyd Mayweather Jr, which drew 4.3 million pay per viewers, the second most in history. During these uncertain times due to the COVID-19 pandemic, … ContinuedThe post Conor McGregor’s new Patek Philippe with an Irish twist is the green-dialled platinum PP of dreams appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Recommended Watching: The Macaluso Collection of “Golden Age” Rally Cars SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux GP May 8, 2020

Recommended Watching: The Macaluso Collection of “Golden Age” Rally Cars

A legendary figure in the watch industry of the 1990s and early 2000s, Luigi “Gino” Macaluso was the owner of Sowind Group, the holding company for Girard-Perregaux (GP) and Daniel Jean Richard. Having started as the Italian distributor for several watch brands, he acquired GP in 1989 and turned it into one of the watchmaking stars of the next two decades, particularly with its haute horlogerie offerings and Ferrari timepieces. But he was long a racing driver at heart, having won several trophies as a driver for the Fiat Abarth team in the 1970s, including the 1972 European Rally Championship. Even as successful entrepreneur Macaluso continued his involvement in motor racing, including as Italy’s representative to the FIA World Council starting in 2005. The Ferrari F40 of the Macaluso collection. Photo – Fondazione Gino Macaluso Macaluso channelled part of the fortune he made in watchmaking into building a car collection, with a focus on rally cars, including prize-winning examples of the Lancia 037, Lancia LC1, and Fiat X1/9. Now the collection has become Fondazione Gino Macaluso per l’Auto Storica (which translates as “Gino Macaluso Foundation for Historic Cars”), located near Macaluso’s hometown of Turin. Last year, Goodwood Road & Racing, the magazine affiliated with the classic car race of the same name, was taken through the collection highlights by Gino’s son, Stefano Macaluso, who was once a designer at Girard-Perregaux. Like his father, Ste...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: All aboard the rollercoaster week that was, ride with us from the ecstasy to the agony Time+Tide
Casio nally … ContinuedThe post May 7, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: All aboard the rollercoaster week that was, ride with us from the ecstasy to the agony

It’s been a colourful, diverse, emotional rollercoaster of a week in the world, and at Time+Tide. This no doubt has a lot to do with the fact that most of us, wherever we are, have ticked over 50 days in lockdown. We are no exception, and have continued working remotely from our homes, and occasionally … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: All aboard the rollercoaster week that was, ride with us from the ecstasy to the agony appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Light, one of the most curious sapphire crystal-cased watches yet Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Light one May 7, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Light, one of the most curious sapphire crystal-cased watches yet

The Girard-Perregaux Laureato was among the vanguard of the first luxury sports watches when it was released in 1975. But it hasn’t stayed in the past, with the constantly evolving new materials and technologies used by the brand in this collection bringing it convincingly into 2020 (with materials such as the electric-looking Carbon Glass, which … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Light, one of the most curious sapphire crystal-cased watches yet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The new Chopard Mille Miglia and L.U.C Perpetual Twin 2020 present masculinity two ways Time+Tide
Chopard Mille Miglia May 6, 2020

INTRODUCING: The new Chopard Mille Miglia and L.U.C Perpetual Twin 2020 present masculinity two ways

For their spring novelty releases this year, Chopard have reinvigorated two of their most popular collections: the Mille Miglia and the L.U.C families. We are offered something for everyone, with the more refined L.U.C collection featuring attractive new perpetual calendar references with tastefully balanced dial proportions and a beautifully decorated movement, while the sportiness of … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Chopard Mille Miglia and L.U.C Perpetual Twin 2020 present masculinity two ways appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tracing The History Of My Grandfather’s Pocket Watch And Delving Into English Watchmaking Quill & Pad
May 6, 2020

Tracing The History Of My Grandfather’s Pocket Watch And Delving Into English Watchmaking

Last year, Colin Alexander Smith's mother showed him a silver pocket watch. All she could tell him about it was that it had belonged to his grandfather. The watch appeared to be older than his grandfather, though, and he embarked upon a quest to identify it and discover the original owner. The story took a few interesting turns as he reveals here in a truly interesting trace of the origins.

EVERY WATCH TELLS A STORY: Hugh flips his Reverso to the family crest side on the weekends, and the reason is interesting… Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso May 6, 2020

EVERY WATCH TELLS A STORY: Hugh flips his Reverso to the family crest side on the weekends, and the reason is interesting…

Hugh has told the story of his customised Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso on Time+Tide before. The tale had such an enthusiastic response from fellow Reverso wearers keen to have their own crests engraved on their watches that we invited Hugh back to tell it again on camera. The appeal of the Reverso is manifold. There is the … ContinuedThe post EVERY WATCH TELLS A STORY: Hugh flips his Reverso to the family crest side on the weekends, and the reason is interesting… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Recommended Watching: The Life and Work of Rexhep Rexhepi SJX Watches
Urwerk May 6, 2020

Recommended Watching: The Life and Work of Rexhep Rexhepi

Thirty-three year old Rexhep Rexhepi is a rising star in independent watchmaking who practices his craft from a workshop in Geneva’s Old Town. But he was born almost a continent away in Kosovo, having left his birthplace as a young teenager as a consequence of the Yugoslav Wars. The Singapore-based retailer of Rexhep’s brand, Akrivia, recently debuted a documentary on Rexhep’s life and work. It’s the latest instalment in The Lives of Artists, a series of short films on a handful of notable watchmakers and creative personalities. Other subjects of the film series include contemporary artist Daniel Arsham, architect Sir David Adjaye, as well as Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei of Urwerk. The subsequent instalments will debut one a week until mid-June 2020. You can watch Rexhep’s film below, while the other films can be in the The Lives of Artists playlist.  

H.Moser & Cie – The Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Blue Lagoon Review WatchAdvice
H. Moser & Cie are well May 5, 2020

H.Moser & Cie – The Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Blue Lagoon Review

H. Moser & Cie are well known as a creator of minimalistic timepieces, taking a simplistic approach to even the most complex creations. The Perpetual Calendar is an excellent example of this, where only the most necessary information is shown on the dial, keeping it clean and very much refined.  Back in 2015, H. Moser & Cie took this minimalistic approach to the next level, by releasing the Concept Watch fumé. One look at this watch and you can see that the idea of keeping it simple has been taken to the extreme. So much so, the dial is absent of even brand name and logo, along with the hour indices. The concept of this watch is to evoke emotion first, tell the time second. By leaving everything bare and letting the fumé dial do all the talking, we think they achieve just that.  Reference: 1200-0206 The Concept Watch fumé was so popular after its initial release in 2015 that H. Moser & Cie officially decided to add it to their Endeavour collection. Since then, the fumé dial has been a symbolic representation of the brand, and its minimalistic approach to watchmaking.   In 2019, blue lagoon, the colour evoking the water of the tropics were combined with the Concept Watch Fumé to create the Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Blue Lagoon. The blue lagoon colour was an unexpected choice for H. Moser & Cie, which has since its release been a great success. The Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Blue Lagoon comes in two case variants; solid white or red gold. Both models fe...