Hodinkee
Introducing: The Richard Mille RM 72-01 Le Mans Classic
Celebrating 100 years of Le Mans with a limited edition flyback chronograph.
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Hodinkee
Hodinkee
Introducing: Two Breitling Top Time Chronographs With Deus Ex Machina And Triumph Motorcycles
The two new chronos tap into the love of motorcycle culture alongside two notable brands.
Time+Tide
The Alpina Heritage Carrée Mechanical 140 Years is a retro throwback loaded with Art Deco charm
Alpina celebrate their 140th anniversary this year. The Alpina Heritage Carrée Mechanical 140 Years is powered by a Calibre 490 from 1938. 28 of the Calibre 490s were restored for two limited editions of 14 pieces each. A trend that has been swirling in the background of watchmaking for a number of years is starting … ContinuedThe post The Alpina Heritage Carrée Mechanical 140 Years is a retro throwback loaded with Art Deco charm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Hervé Schlüchter Debuts with L’Essentiel Regulator
The latest watchmaker to launch a time-only watch with a finely finished movement is Hervé Schlüchter, who makes his debut with the L’Essentiel. A watchmaker who spent most of his recent career as a movement constructor at Bovet, Mr Schlüchter’s entry into the progressively more crowded segment features a regulator-style display with a day-and-night indicator and on the reverse, a hand-finished movement. Initial thoughts Having worked at Bovet and then spent time studying with Philippe Dufour, Mr Schlüchter has the background for a fine watch. Notably, Mr Schlüchter is an actual watchmaker, having trained as a watchmaker and repairer. As a result, the L’Essentiel is arguably purer in concept since it was developed and then produced by a watch-maker, rather than being drawn by a designer or engineer and then outsourced to specialists. The L’Essentiel lives up to expectations in terms of decoration and construction. It has impressively high quality in most respects: the dial is engine turned by hand, and includes fired enamel, and aventurine. The movement shows off lots of black-polished steel, chamfered edges, and polished countersinks. At CHF78,000 before taxes, the L’Essentiel has a decent price-to-quality ratio. But while watch is titled “The Essential”, it is ironically a lot, maybe too much, both stylistically and tangibly. As is increasingly the case with independent watchmaking, the product feels contrived because it wants to be everything that is ...
Quill & Pad
Punch ManTua: Cuban Cigars with Serious Oomph
The Punch ManTua cigar has serious oomph throughout. Some find a slight sweetness, but Ken Gargett's had no evidence of it. This cigar has considerable complexity and there is no hint of anything out of place or any of the awkwardness that sometimes afflicts younger cigars.
Worn & Wound
Parmigiani Tonda PF Gets Revamped Sport Mode
Nearly every luxury watchmaker is feeling the need to have a sporty collection or reference in their stable these days, much the same as some of the great sports car marques needing an SUV all of the sudden. It’s just practical. Just what makes a watch sport worthy is up for debate, but it generally comes with a bit of water resistance, the ability to absorb a shock or two, and a rubber or textile strap. Bright colors optional. In reality it means a watch that’s better suited to everyday wear, and goes with a broader selection of your wardrobe. The sporting element simply implies comfort and practicality. Parmigiani Fleurier may be known for their formal wear, but they’re no strangers to the sport watch, and this week, the Tonda line gets a completely revamped sport collection called the Tonda PF Sport. The new Tonda PF Sport collection will be replacing the Tonda GT collection with the introduction of 4 references that span steel and rose gold within a time and date, and chronograph configuration. The new watches bring a tighter cohesion to the Tonda family overall, taking a cleaner approach to the theme. The biggest shift from the GT collection is the date migration away from the unique oversized 12 o’clock position, and into the more controversial 4:30 position on the chronograph, and the 6 o’clock position on the time and date model. The Tonda GT watches had plenty of quirks, from their date execution, to the month display of the calendar models labeled, qu...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar - Now With A Black Dial
A new dial color is here to make us take notice of an overlooked JLC gem in pink gold.
Worn & Wound
5 Ideal Automatic Watches For the Beginner - Windup Watch Shop
We know just as well as you do, that the world of watches goes deep and it can be overwhelming to get into. Of course, the first step is showing interest, but even more tricky is the second step - picking out your very first mechanical timepiece. There are a few main types of movements: mechanical (automatic or hand-wound), quartz (powered by a battery) and digital (usually featuring an LCD display). While quartz and digital have their places, it’s hard to top the idea that you have a tiny precision machine strapped to your wrist that’s powered by the movement of your body. Mechanical movements are built to last a lifetime (with regular service) and can be simple as a three-handed movement (hours, minutes, seconds) or as complicated as a three register chronograph with a perpetual calendar with moon phase display. Today, we’re exploring five of our favorite picks that are ideal for your first mechanical watch - stylish, feature-packed, and sub-$500. Let’s dig in! We know just as well as you do, that the world of watches goes deep and it can be overwhelming to get into. Of course, the first step is showing interest, but even more tricky is the second step - picking out your very first mechanical timepiece. There are a few main types of movements: mechanical (automatic or hand-wound), quartz (powered by a battery) and digital (usually featuring an LCD display). While quartz and digital have their places, it’s hard to top the idea that you have a tiny precisio...
Time+Tide
Close but no cigar: Why I welcome horological deal breakers
At this specific moment in my life, there’s no way I should even think about buying another watch. On the back of a series of interest rates hike and with a looming renovation for our family home, this just isn’t the right time to splash the cash. And yet… The problem with doing this job … ContinuedThe post Close but no cigar: Why I welcome horological deal breakers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
In Conversation with Hervé Schlüchter; The Former Student, The Future Master
Wei is joined by Hervé Schlüchter for the first time ever, to unravel the L’Essential, the first watch of his namesake brand. Hervé Schlüchter was born in the Swiss Jura and is a former student of the watchmaking school in Porrentruy. In 2000, Hervé Schlüchter joined the independent brand Bovet and stayed for 16 years […]
SJX Watches
Longines Introduces the Spirit Zulu Time 39 mm
Originally introduced in 42 mm last year, the Longines Spirit Zulu Time now gets a more comfortable 39 mm case. The new variant retains all the appealing design elements of the original that are loosely inspired by the brand’s first dual time zone watch from 1925, including the legible dial and a vintage-style, bi-directional bezel. Initial thoughts The Spirit Zulu Time is a great example of how to execute a vintage-style watch. However, a significant drawback was the large, 42 mm size of the original, which was quite hefty on the wrist and not quite suited to the retro style. Longines clearly recognised this issue and responded surprisingly quickly in introducing a more wearable size. While the 39 mm size is certainly positive, the case thickness of 13.5 mm leaves it notably thick relative to the diameter; the thickness is comparable to some automatic chronographs. As a result, it may feel clunky on the wrist for some. That said, the reason for the case height is fundamental: the watch is powered by the same movement as the original. Still, the Spirit Zulu Time continues to be an excellent value proposition, starting at US$3,050 in steel while the steel and gold model is US$4,200. The fact that the Zulu Time is a genuine GMT with an independent local-time hour hand makes it a standout amongst affordable dual-time zone watches. Although it may fall short in terms of movement sophistication compared to the similarly-priced Tudor Black Bay GMT, it has the advantage of ...
Time+Tide
A. Lange & Söhne invite Time+Tide Club Members to boutique lock-in
On a cool Sydney night, with most of the darkened city preoccupied with the Vivid festival, A. Lange & Söhne and Watches of Switzerland hosted an evening in their Martin Place Boutique for Time+Tide Club Members. The doors were promptly locked, the cocktails were soon in hand, and the objective for all attendees was simple; … ContinuedThe post A. Lange & Söhne invite Time+Tide Club Members to boutique lock-in appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Tissot Sideral Regatta Timer Returns With Fun Summer Colors
You don't need to be a sailor to get some fun out of these new carbon-cased watches.
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 300
A good friend of mine leans heavily toward the category of pilot watches. He’s not a pilot, but he likes the way pilot watches look, how legible they are, and the rich history that propelled them to occupy an important role in Swiss brands’ catalogs. I lean heavily towards the genre of dive watches, and although I’m not a professional diver, I do occasionally explore the world below the surface. I have been drawn to dive watches because of their inherent robustness and versatility, as well because I have a particular affinity for any large body of water. This means, in other words, that I mostly wear dive watches and that I’m always on the lookout for the next one to add to my collection. At the risk of bragging a little, I’ve gotten my hands on many Christopher Ward models in the past three years. But for some strange reason, I’ve never looked at a Trident in the metal. This is odd because it is the collection that the British brand is perhaps the most known for. And this might be due to the fact that, over the past few years, Christopher Ward has revamped the Trident collection multiple times, updating the designs, improving upon the case profile and dimensions, and continuously bettering the finish. Or, in Christopher Ward terms, giving us better bangs for our bucks. So today is a special day as I got to spend some time with the 38mm C60 Trident Pro 300. An Enthusiast Driven Design We watch enthusiasts are not only enthusiasts about horology but we som...
Revolution
The Ele Series: Meeting with Stephen Silver Part I
A gemologist, philanthropist, and the founder of one of the United States’ premier jewelry houses, Stephen Silver Fine Jewelry, Stephen Silver, with over three decades of experience is recognized as an expert in rare and unique gemstones and also gained a reputation as a skilled jeweler with an eye for detail and a passion for […]
Deployant
New: IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun Lake Tahoe White Ceramic
Banking on the huge success of their Top Gun series, IWC releases new Big Pilot's Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun Lake Tahoe White Ceramic.
Time+Tide
IWC is stealthy in ceramic for the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun
Many manufacturers have delved into the recent trend of brightly coloured dials fitted to slightly dressier, but still everyday-friendly watches. It’s fairly rare, however, that this colourful element continued into the cases, and this is where IWC’s ceramic-cased Pilot’s Watch line-up comes in. It’s no secret that their Pantone-tinged Woodland Green, white Lake Tahoe, and … ContinuedThe post IWC is stealthy in ceramic for the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Revo Talks: Laurent Ferrier X Revolution Classic Micro-Rotor Amazonia
Wei and Constant have a sit-down conversation on our newest limited edition, the Laurent Ferrier X Revolution Classic Micro-Rotor Amazonia. Join us as we go into the stories of Laurent Ferrier, the man himself, and the amazing process that created this beautiful timepiece. Our Laurent Ferrier X Revolution Classic Micro-Rotor Amazonia is limited to just 15 […]
SJX Watches
Schwarz Etienne Introduces the Geometry
While historically a movement and components supplier, Schwarz Etienne has produced timepieces under its own name for some years now. Some of its watches feature original designs with a touch of traditional watchmaking, an example being the recent collaboration with independent watchmaker Voutilainen. Now, it is continuing the collaborative design approach in its latest release, the Geometry. Unveiled as a limited edition in two colourways, this collection showcases a dial penned by Eric Giroud, the designer best known for his work for contemporary brands like MB&F;. Described as “deconstructed”, his dial design takes inspiration from the branch of mathematics that’s all about precise alignment and arrangement of lines to form shapes. Initial thoughts In recent years, a growing number of watch brands, including Louis Erard and Bulgari, have embraced geometric dial designs to produce some standouts in their collections. As evident in its latest creation, Schwarz Etienne also aligns with this trend. What sets the Geometry apart is the combination of traditional decoration with modernist style in its contrasting utilisation of fluted lines and clous de Paris patterns. Between the two iterations, the silver dial is particularly captivating. The subtle contrast between the textures and colours are simultaneously cohesive and balanced, creating something pleasing and elegant out of what could be a very busy dial. With a price tag of US$23,490, the Geometry is expensive i...
Time+Tide
The MKII Stingray II Keroman is a true military diver, recreated
We don’t need more dive watches. According to some anecdotal data, divers are the most popular type of watches because they are robust, versatile, and can sometimes be handsome to look at, considering personal preference and all. Don’t get me wrong – I love dive watches – and wear them on a mostly daily basis. … ContinuedThe post The MKII Stingray II Keroman is a true military diver, recreated appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Wearing The Crown: Ressence Type 2 E-Crown (Video) - Reprise
The Watches TV founder Marc-André Deschoux explains how the personal Type 2 E-Crown of Ressence's founder, Benoît Mintiens, works in this video.
Quill & Pad
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra: Seemingly Both Impossibly Thin and Impossibly Deep
In 2022 Bulgari comes at us with yet another world record in the Octo Finissimo Ultra, which instantly set the title of world’s thinnest mechanical watch. It blew Joshua Munchow's mind not just because it's the thinnest watch in history, but because it broke the record with flair (and a bit of controversy).
Time+Tide
How smartwatches could protect soldiers from chemical warfare
War played a crucial role in the evolution of the wristwatch. Historians believe the idea of strapping watches to soldier’s wrists was probably conceived during the Boer War, although there are some accounts of Napoleon being frustrated by having to constantly fumble about for his pocket watch during battle. But the real game-changer that made … ContinuedThe post How smartwatches could protect soldiers from chemical warfare appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Marnaut opens a new chapter with a Croatian boutique, Swiss movements and German manufacturing
A common feature of any independent brand, micro or otherwise, is the brave undertaking of “cutting out the middleman”. Even though this phrase has become overused, and in some cases, rightfully ridiculed, the success of many independent brands lies in online-only availability, which is often one of the main driving forces behind affordable prices. Yet … ContinuedThe post Marnaut opens a new chapter with a Croatian boutique, Swiss movements and German manufacturing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Citizen Series 8 GMT Collection Makes Time-Zone Jumping, Easy
Citizen introduces a new set of "flyer" or "true" GMT watches. The new Citizen Series 8 GMT collection. Check out photos, specs, and pricing.
Worn & Wound
The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition - Brett Braley
Editor’s Note: In this edition of the 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader (and newest contributor) Brett Braley brings us a refreshing collection that skews the expected in creative ways. All three of these watches bring a unique personality to the table, and offer a surprisingly diverse range when considered together. If you’d like to submit your own 3 watch collection for $5,000 can you do so at the form right here. I have always hovered at the periphery of watches. Whether it was the Fossil watch I got for graduation from my parents or the souvenir Mickey Mouse watch I begged my aunt at Disney World, I have always seen watches as the supreme accessory for looking put together (or, at the very least, faking it). Recently, I have stopped being at the periphery of watches and have found myself smack-dab in the middle of the hobby. A few weeks ago, I attended the San Francisco Wind Up as a representative of my company, Esterbrook Pen Co. I’m the Director of Digital Marketing for a company that specializes in luxury pens. While this is a niche industry, it’s not any more niche than, say, watches and the two circles of the Venn diagram seem to be overlapping a good bit. When tasked to pick three watches, I went with the same criteria I use when picking a good writing utensil: value, aesthetic, and quality. I want something that will last, look good, and be worth the money I’m paying. And, last but not least, I wanted to go with three brands which aren’t as ...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time - Now In 39mm
A big new release of a smaller version of Longines' hit flyer GMT.
Worn & Wound
Turning 50 with the Grand Seiko SBGE257
Three years ago, my significant other turned 50 and for this milestone birthday she absolutely wanted a Tesla automobile. As the wonderful husband I am and knowing my 50th birthday was three years away, I knew this could open the door to a significant watch purchase, so of course, we made it happen. Luckily, we were very fortunate to take possession of her new cherry red car just weeks before the pandemic turned the entire world upside down. From that day forward, I had to figure out what would make the perfect 50th birthday watch, however, before we get to this process, you have to understand something about me. I call myself a serial monogamist when it comes to watch collecting. I am one of those people that can only have one “good” watch at a time. I cannot seem to have more than one, as there is always a preferred one and that one always gets the wrist time. As a result, since 1997, I have gone through hundreds of watches, always looking for watch next. My preference is for sport, dive and pilot watches and I have owned, photographed and reviewed some of the very finest in the world. I have done this by frequently trading, or selling and buying, but always with the same pool of watch funds. Oh, I have added a little bit here and there, and I have also gotten lucky a few times and come out favorably on some trades. All that said, it has been years since the wifely unit permitted a large watch purchase. You see, we have two adult kids in college and despite wha...
Time+Tide
The Nezumi Aviera is a GMT that looks like nothing else
If you read Time+Tide, you know very well that GMTs are as popular as they have ever been. I would actually say, much more popular. I cannot think of any major Swiss or Japanese brand that hasn’t released a GMT in the past two years. And looking at the independent/microbrand world, it seems that each … ContinuedThe post The Nezumi Aviera is a GMT that looks like nothing else appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Marnaut Returns with their Refined Dark Surge 300 Diver, a Proper Dressy Tool Watch and a New Showroom in an Exotic Locale
The last time we caught up Mario Jutronic and his Croatia-designed microbrand, Marnaut, the collection featured a pair of capable divers with a distinct dial inspired by a creature of the Adriatic Sea. Marnaut has been quiet in recent years and after a stint in Asia, Jutronic has returned to his homeland, marking the watch brand’s resurgence. Sometimes a change in scenery is what the soul needs, and you know what they say, there’s nothing better than home cooking. Now, Marnaut is looking to pick up right where they left off with a more refined version of their flagship Dark Surge 300 diver and the launch of their brand new Safe Harbour 100 collection. The newly refined Dark Surge 300 As you’ll find out with all the noteworthy details, all roads lead back to “The Land of a Thousand Islands” in every Marnaut piece. The sea urchin exoskeleton inspired dial, a signature Marnaut design cue and a tribute to Jutronic’s younger days snorkeling in the Adriatic Sea to find these coveted creatures, reprises its format in the updated Dark Surge 300. The dial displays all 47 raised indices in radiating fashion with each one wrapped in a polished surround and filled with C3 SuperLuminova. There’s a certain depth this particular design provides. From above, the space between the top of the surrounds and the surface of its filling is noticeable. A side profile captures the same raised indices in a different manner as they reflect off of the glossy black dial. As a result, le...