Inside The Design: Lust For the Must
Cartier has a runaway hit with the Must, the youngest and coolest watch to come out of Paris in a long time. Here, our design columnist explains why there's more to the simple aesthetic than meets the eye.
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Cartier has a runaway hit with the Must, the youngest and coolest watch to come out of Paris in a long time. Here, our design columnist explains why there's more to the simple aesthetic than meets the eye.
Quill & Pad
Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo will hold the Geneva Watch Auction XV in Switzerland on May 7 and 8, 2022. What’s particularly interesting about Phillips’ traditional late spring auction this year is that it is preceded by an “appetizer” on May 6, the Royal Oak 50th auction with a catalogue so rich it could arguably serve as the main course. Brendan Cunningham went to the New York City preview and shares a few of his highlights with us here.
Time+Tide
On first glance, the watch looked to be in pitiful condition. Much of the dial was barely visible due to the severity of the scratches that had ravaged the glass. Yet beyond that superficial damage, it turned out to be in surprisingly good nick. Plus, there was the small matter of the fact that the … ContinuedThe post Rolex Sea-Dweller badly scratched in a cycling accident gets shock valuation on the Antiques Roadshow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
They're among the most intricate designs we have to offer.
Time+Tide
When people use the terms ‘fashion’ and ‘watch’ in the same sentence near die-hard enthusiasts, it can cause a shiver down their spines. “Fashion watch” is practically a derogatory term in the watch community, dismissing a piece as a cheap build leveraging the name of a popular fashion house to elicit purchases. To be fair, … ContinuedThe post Nicolas Cage loves shortbread, tree bark, and Grand Seiko appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s Note: We have partnered with @watchanalytics to crunch the numbers and dig into the horological market trends and value fluctuations for the references that matter. Last time, we delved into the market status of the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Skeleton that is rocketing in value. Today we are going to dive into how the MoonSwatch collaboration with Omega has impacted … ContinuedThe post WATCH ANALYTICS WEDNESDAYS: How the MoonSwatch impacted Swatch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
A message from the vintage desk: An update on trends and what to watch going forward.
Time+Tide
When a compact and classically dimensioned watch is debuted, a tiny-wrister bat signal is lit high in the sky for me to rush and cover it. Look, in journalism we have to remain objective, but this release hits home for me on a personal level and, based on your comments on social media, for many … ContinuedThe post The new 36.5mm Grand Seiko SBGW289 has fans rejoicing at the possibilities beyond this kira-zuri cherry blossom limited edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Michael Clerizo sat down at Watches and Wonders 2022 to talk to the watch world at large about Scott Lenga’s just-published book, 'The Watchmakers,' the true story of how Scott's father Harry used watchmaking as a survival skill as a Jewish prisoner in a Nazi labor camp. Here we have the full discussion on video.
Time+Tide
The Bremont boutique in Melbourne is nestled within the halls of St. Collins Lane, a shopping arcade in the heart of the city centre. Last Thursday, just 2.6 kilometres to the south, thousands of people from mechanics and volunteers to journalists and spectators began to swarm upon Albert Park Lake for the very first day … ContinuedThe post Inside the Bremont x Williams event for the Australian Grand Prix appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Even if you’ve only been into watches for a short amount of time, the chances are pretty high that you’ve heard about the Hamilton Khaki Field. With 100 years experience of making watches for the military, Hamilton certainly know how to make an attractive, capable field watch that can handle everything from survival situations to … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Hamilton Khaki Field Titanium Automatic collection upgrades one of the best-priced field watches around appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Elizabeth Doerr wasn’t the only journalist to chat with A. Lange & Söhne during Watches and Wonders 2022 about the three new watches the brand launched at the show. Here are two more short video conversations featuring Justin Hast (author of 'The Watch Annual') and SJX (founder of Watches by SJX). Sit back and enjoy!
Time+Tide
Last week’s Australian Grand Prix set a new record for the highest attended weekend sporting event ever staged in Melbourne. That’s no mean feat in a sports-mad city that also hosts the Australian Open, the Melbourne Cup and is home to the MCG. Clearly, motorsports have enjoyed a serious injection of interest thanks to F1’s social … ContinuedThe post The circuit breakers: Watchspotting at the 2022 Australian Grand Prix appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Distinctive for its slide-rule bezel, the Navitimer is synonymous with Breitling. Having been in near continuous production since its introduction 70 years ago, the Navitimer has been offered in a bewildering array of iterations, but the 2022 Navitimer B01 returns to the roots of the model with a vintage-inspired design, but livened up with bright, metallic dials. Initial thoughts If you already like the Navitimer, the 2022 version is an appealing proposition. It’s essentially the traditional Navitimer design with Breitling’s in-house chronograph movement that has an excellent construction. The model is consistently priced given the in-house movement, while the design has enough vintage elements to give it a classic Navitimer feel. The dial colours, however, are modern, so this avoids being a vintage remake (which Breitling has done enough of). Of the three sizes, the 41 mm is identical to the vintage original, so it’s probably the perfect size. The 43 mm is probably still acceptable on most wrists, but the 46 mm will be enormous. If there is to something to criticise it is probably the wide range of models – two case metals, three case sizes, and a dozen or so dial types, though not every dial is available in every size. The number of choices feel too ambitious and confusing for a launch of a new model. Throwback design The new Navitimer is the first redesign of the model since current chief executive Georges Kern took the helm of Breitling in 2017. Unsurprisingly...
It’s fair to say we don’t get everything right, all the time. One video I properly botched was in February last year. It was billed as a “meet the team” video. But in reality, it was me talking about the team, on their behalf. Most commenters were positive enough about the broad message: that you could start … ContinuedThe post Meet the team! The live video from a watch fair that YouTube has been waiting for… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The watch nerd that WMMT is, he rarely immediately wears his new watches, putting them aside for a few days and letting the anticipation grow. When it finally came time to wear his new Rolex, he took it out of the box and proudly put it on his wrist. And then horror struck: he didn’t feel anything, not a thing! Zilch, nada, niente! What to do?
Time+Tide
Famous for its military-devised, utilitarian design, the Panerai Submersible diversifies with a slew of new 44mm references. A variety of materials and finishes is united under one name – Submersible QuarantaQuattro. Formerly attributed to the Luminor range, the Submersible collection achieved autonomy in 2019, but retained the patented crown-protection system. Already featuring more than 20 … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING – Panerai makes a splash with the Submersible QuarantaQuattro appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S NOTE: We recently ran the first part of our Watch Confessions in which Time+Tide began to interview members of the community to get them to share their watch-related secrets. In this second instalment, one anonymous watch lover tells how acquiring his dream watch didn’t turn out quite as planned… “Men can often do dumb things … ContinuedThe post WATCH CONFESSIONS: “Divorce made me buy a crazy expensive watch” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
HODINKEE staff photographer Tiffany Wade turns her camera on the quieter moments of our big trip to Geneva.
Time+Tide
Last week at Watches & Wonders, I suspect that the watch that was discussed most regularly and with most animation wasn’t even released at the show. Countless times over dinners or drinks, I heard the subject of the MoonSwatch pop up and everyone had an opinion on the shock collaboration between Omega and Swatch. Some … ContinuedThe post Marketing guru explains why the MoonSwatch was a genius co-branding move appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
You’d be forgiven if you thought that Jaeger-LeCoultre was only about their stellar movements, or the case-flipping Reverso watch. True, the Reverso is an icon of design, and their movements are so renowned that they’ve powered countless other brands’ finest timepieces, but there’s much more to JLC. So much more. For instance, one of the … ContinuedThe post The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris combines innovation with elegance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Having just closed its doors, Watches & Wonders 2022 (W&W;) was a success. All the industry executives I spoke with were satisfied with the event and predict it will happen again, barring any major disagreements between the important brands and groups that took part. That is borne out by the numbers as well. According to its organisers, the event had 22,000 individual visitors. Compare that to 2019 when SIHH had 23,000 visitors with about the same number of exhibitors, while Baselworld logged over 80,000 that year but with 20 times the number of exhibitors. All things considered W&W; 2022 had a good turnout. All the exhibiting brands stuck to the standard booth format of the event, except for the independent-minded quartet of Rolex, Tudor, Chopard, and Patek Philippe, which reused their Baselworld booths While turnout was good, business was great. The luxury watch industry is enjoying a boom without parallel – “sold out” and “waiting list” were certainly the defining phrases of the fair. I asked Gisbert Brunner, the veteran watch journalist who started his career before the Quartz Crisis, if he could recall a comparable period in history and he could not, though he said today does evoke the go-go years of the late 1990s. The slightly more drab section of the fair made up of almost identical booths Demand is so strong that assorted brands are being revived and new brands are entering the market. Even Cartier launched the highly complex and ingenious Masse Mysterieu...
Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin has been making watches uninterrupted since 1755. I have been writing about watches, frequently interrupted, for about a year. So when I decided to visit my first-ever manufacture, I knew where I had to go.
Quill & Pad
In recent years, the world of high-end watches has become a far more colorful place. We have evolved from decades of conservatism in which a blue dial was daring to a kaleidoscopic era where anything is possible. And now red arrives, which has the advantage of a richness of hues. Here Martin Green looks at four new red-dialed watches from Bell & Ross, Oris, Rado, and Omega.
Hodinkee
And it still rings in under a grand. Don't let your yearnings get ahead of your earnings.
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S NOTE: Grim pragmatism ensures the watch world is not big on public candour. Retailers are totally dependent on the watch brands to secure the most lucrative stock. Buyers are dependent on the whims of their authorised dealers in order to buy in-demand models. The watch media meanwhile is still largely dependent on advertising dollars, so … ContinuedThe post WATCH CONFESSIONS: “My watch buying has got out of control – I must’ve spent $2 million” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Just after the curtain fell on Watches & Wonders 2022 – on the day after the fair closed in fact – Patek Philippe unveils one of its technical highlights for the year, the 1/10th of a Second Monopusher Chronograph ref. 5470P-001. In a first for the Geneva watchmaker, the chronograph is equipped with a high-frequency balance that beats at 36,000 vibrations per hour, or 5 Hz. The high-beat movement results in a lighting seconds hand that completes one revolution around the dial every 12 seconds, allowing the chronograph to precisely record elapsed times with a resolution of 1/10ths of a second (barring user error). This lightning seconds hand runs in tandem with the regular chronograph seconds hand, resulting in an unusual sight on the dial when the chronograph is running. Initial thoughts While lightning seconds chronographs have been done before, it’s surprising to see a traditionalist brand such as Patek Philippe have a go at the complication. The function is often associated with brands with a sporty, contemporary aesthetic like TAG Heuer and Zenith. In terms of aesthetics, the ref. 5470P is another example of the brand continuing to move towards a more modern, striking style, even for otherwise classical models. But under the hood is where it shines. Despite the seemingly simple idea of tacking on an additional gear train for the 1/10th of a second hand, the movement inside underwent a deceptively complex modification. And in typical Patek Philippe fashion, the co...
SJX Watches
Having unveiled the first all-new Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 16202 earlier this year to mark the model’s 40th anniversary, Audemars Piguet has now taken the covers off the first “Jumbo” tourbillon. Possible thanks to the newly developed movement found in the ref. 16202, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin RD#3 has exactly the same dimensions, but also boasts a flying tourbillon. Initial thoughts Recent Royal Oak tourbillons were bulky compared to the svelte time-and-date “Jumbo”, largely because they utilised movements developed for use across Audemars Piguet’s range of watches. Last year’s Royal Oak automatic tourbillon, for instance, was 41 mm in diameter and shares the same movement as the Code 11.59 tourbillon. In contrast the new “Jumbo” tourbillon is equipped with a movement conceived specifically for the model, one that allows the case to retain the dimensions of the original Royal Oak ref. 5402 of 1972. As a result, the “Jumbo” tourbillon is surely an appealing watch, because the lines and proportions of the original Royal Oak are practically ideal. Granted, the addition of the tourbillon is a matter of taste – you may or may not like the aperture on the dial that reveals the regulator. I like the look, with one caveat: I wish the “AP” emblem was retained on the dial. “Jumbo” but elegant The new tourbillon is essentially the ref. 16202 with the addition of a tourbillon regulator. It has exactly th...
Time+Tide
This is a year of celestial celebration for Jaeger-LeCoultre with “The Stellar Odyssey” collection paying tribute to the centuries-old marriage of astronomy and horology in the most breathtaking ways. A few examples of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Watches & Wonders releases truly stand out from the crowd, such as the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 945 Galaxia and … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Jaeger-LeCoultre introduce a brand new complication inspired by shooting stars appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Patek Philippe releases an addition to their Calatrava line: the Ref. 5226G in white gold, a textured dial and guilloched Clous de Paris on the case side.
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