Hodinkee
A Week On The Wrist: The Seiko Prospex SPB381 GMT
A go-anywhere, do-anything diver with a dash of travel-friendly functionality.
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Hodinkee
Worn & Wound
Ming Updates their 37.05 Moonphase with More Lume and a Completely Reworked Dial
Ming is back with an updated version of their 37.05, which you might remember was announced in late 2021 as the brand’s first watch with a moonphase complication. Ming has given the 37.05 Series 2 (which they’ve nicknamed the “Ad Astra”) a series of whimsical refinements that play on the inherent romance of a moonphase complication. Those aesthetic tweaks are, of course, uniquely Ming in nature, making use of their expanding proficiency with a variety of materials, and a rather ingenious use of high powered luminescent material. You’ll immediately notice that the big change to the new 37.05 is with the dial. Ming has gone from a textured blue dial with a subtle moonphase indicator at the 6:00 position to an anthracite dial with prominent brushed finishing. Star shaped holes have been added to the dial, which fill in with lume as the moonphase disc rotates underneath. The 37.05 still uses a sapphire upper dial, which is where you’ll find hour markers, the moon “mask” which is used to define the phase of the moon, as well as plenty of inlaid HyCeram lume to provide a bit of a light show when fully charged. Ming notes that the stars on the sapphire upper dial have HyCeram lume applied to both the upper and lower surfaces for increased visual depth. The 37.05 Series 2 is powered by the manually wound Sellita SW288-1, which is the same caliber used in the prior moonphase, and has been extensively reworked and decorated in the same fashion. The bridges have b...
SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Freak X Enamel Blue
Ulysse Nardin is introducing a more classical iteration of its affordable Freak to mark the 15th year of PMT The Hour Glass, a luxury watch retailer in Thailand. The Freak X Enamel Blue maintains the avant-garde styling of the model while introducing a touch of old school elegance with a captivating blue enamel dial embellished with vibrant guilloché. Initial thoughts Ulysse Nardin, known for its experimental designs, pleasantly surprises by integrating a champlevé enamel dial into a watch that is otherwise unabashedly modern. The standout feature is the dial that combines the artistry of enamelling and guilloché, made possible by the brand’s in-house dial factory. This infusion of classicism into the inherently contemporary watch results in an understated and surprisingly harmonious aesthetic. As is always the case with a novel limited edition, hopefully Ulysse Nardin will maintain the exclusivity of this design and refrain from replicating too much in future models. The Freak X Enamel Blue carries a price tag of US$40,100, almost twice the cost of the standard model. While the dial is traditional enamel – painted and fired by hand in other words – the construction and movement remain unchanged over the standard model, making the price hard to rationalise. 15th anniversary The Freak X edition commemorates the fifteenth anniversary of PMT The Hour Glass, a joint venture between local jeweller Prima Times (PMT) and Singapore watch retailer The Hour Glass. Establish...
Worn & Wound
Squale Teams Up with an Elite Italian Dive Squad for their Latest Limited Edition
We’re in the midst of a long Fourth of July weekend here in the US, which means summer has more than arrived, and if you weren’t already in full colorful dive watch mode, now’s the time to figure out what the poolside, cocktail sipping watch is going to be. Squale, with their new Master x Palombari del Comsubin diver with a bright blue dial, is a late entry in the ongoing summer watch sweepstakes. The watch combines a unique piece of Italian military heritage into its design, and represents a surprising first for the brand. It’s also likely that its impressive specs can handle time at the beach, the pool, waiting around at the airport, and a whole lot more this vacation season. The watch is based on Squale’s Master Marina Militare platform, relaunched in 2022 but with roots going back to the 1960s. The overall design here is 100% tool diver, with a simple, unfussy case, and a dial that’s similarly focused on the important stuff, namely legibility and providing plenty of lume via a sandwich dial construction. The seal on the dial at 6:00 is that of the Comsubin dive team, an elite segment of the Italian Navy that specializes in the most complex underwater operations. The bright blue shade used for the dial is both a Squale signature and an homage to the Comsubin uniform, which is a similar tone. Squale says that the Comsubin played a key role in the design of the watch, which is specced to handle just about anything they might encounter – members of the team...
Worn & Wound
Dumoreau Follows Up their Debut with an Attractive Contemporary Dress Watch
The DM02 is the sophomore release from California-based micro brand Dumoreau, following the DM01 we touched on here. Designed by architect and designer Carlo Aiello, this dress watch takes his expertise in architecture and product design into the realm of the dress watch, while drawing on basic principles of proportion to create a compelling new release that slots in nicely with his debut. The dial features a two-piece construction with recessed concentric circles at the center, complemented by a brushed circular section for numerals and minute track. The indexes maintain their orientation as they encircle the dial, while the only branding present is the hand-applied Dumoreau name, seamlessly integrated into the concentric circles. The curvaceous all-polished 39mm case directs works to draw the eye to the dial, with lyre lugs providing additional visual interest. The stated goal of the design was to create a “dynamic organic geometry,” and the end result is a case with both gentle and dramatic curves that cohere nicely with the details of the dial. The screw-in sapphire caseback exposes the manually wound Sellita SW 210-1 movement, decorated with Geneva stripes and circular graining. With dimensions of 39mm wide, 46mm lug to lug, and a slim profile of 9.5mm thanks to the hand wound caliber, the DM02 is designed to fit comfortably on wrists of all sizes. Conveniently, it boasts a water resistance rating of 100 meters, uncommon for a manually wound dress watch. The DM02 ...
Quill & Pad
Only Watch 2023: Lots 1 – 16
Held every two years, the Only Watch charity auction of exclusively unique pieces has grown into THE most anticipated watch auction worldwide and features some of the most creative and innovative horology on the planet.
Time+Tide
Vintage-inspired pieces from Furlan Marri are the latest newcomers to the Time+Tide Shop
Throughout the last few weeks, we’ve brought you funky, affordable, sporty, vintage-inspired and some cult classics to the Time+Tide Shop. However, as a hub of some of the best independent brands in the business, it just wouldn’t do without Furlan Marri – one of the most impressive horological stories of the last few years. Combining … ContinuedThe post Vintage-inspired pieces from Furlan Marri are the latest newcomers to the Time+Tide Shop appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
The Ele Series: Meeting with Stephen Silver Part II
In the second part of this captivating series (catch up on Part I here), Stephen delves even deeper into his intriguing collecting philosophies, explores the fascinating relationships between some of the most esteemed watchmakers, and unveils some of his personal watch collection. As we bid farewell to this captivating season one of The Ele Series, […]
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: Pitzmann strengthen their claim to be the South Korean value proposition
South Korea is not typically a country associated with watchmaking, despite a strong culture of manufacturing that has leapt in quality over the last two decades. That said, microbrands essentially exist to challenge our preconceptions of what’s possible for small companies to accomplish. Pitzmann certainly capture the imagination with their two releases The First Pitzmann … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Pitzmann strengthen their claim to be the South Korean value proposition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Citizen’s New 37mm Promaster Divers Are The Perfect Summer Watch
It’s a great time to be a dive watch fan, especially if you prefer something that wears a bit more svelte on the wrist. We gravitate towards dive watches because of their form and functionality – they look just plain cool and have a ton of features that can handle nearly anything you can throw at them. Today, we’re happy to have a new series of Promaster dive watches from Citizen in the shop, all measuring in at a very wearable 37mm. It’s a great time to be a dive watch fan, especially if you prefer something that wears a bit more svelte on the wrist. We gravitate towards dive watches because of their form and functionality – they look just plain cool and have a ton of features that can handle nearly anything you can throw at them. Today, we’re happy to have a new series of Promaster dive watches from Citizen in the shop, all measuring in at a very wearable 37mm. The post Citizen’s New 37mm Promaster Divers Are The Perfect Summer Watch appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
Ryan Gosling wears the perfect TAG Heuer for Barbie movie premiere
Ryan Gosling wore the perfect watch to a Barbie movie premiere - a hot pink Tag Heuer Carrera. Here's a quick overview of the watch.The post Ryan Gosling wears the perfect TAG Heuer for Barbie movie premiere appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
A Week On The Wrist: The Omega Seamaster Railmaster
A new collection nods to the past while utilizing all of the brand's latest technology.
W
Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
A Week in Watches Ep. 56: Omega goes Blue + Furlan Marri goes Big
What a week! On episode 56 of A Week in Watches we cover a lot, yet barely even scratch the surface of what launched (don’t worry, we’ll get back to it next week). We start off with a look at the second collaboration between Louis Erard and Massena LAB. From there, we descend the depths of the Omega Seamaster catalog with a special collection of 11 new watches for the lines 75th anniversary. After, there’s a speed round where we quickly cover the Tissot PRX 35mm, the Oris Divers Sixty-Five Steel 38mm Cotton Candy Collection, and the Cara Barrett x Timex collab. Whew. The last segment focuses on a truly epic project by Furlan Marri, the Secular Perpetual Calendar for the upcoming Only Watch auction in November. Quite a week. This week’s sponsor is Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2023! After a successful weekend in San Francisco, the highly anticipated Windup Watch Fair is heading back to the vibrant city of Chicago from Friday, July 14, through Sunday, July 16, 2023. The fair will be held at Venue West, located at 221 N Paulina St in the West Loop neighborhood of Chicago, and feature over 40 brands. Visit and follow windupwatchfair.com for the full list of participating brands. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 56: Omega goes Blue + Furlan Marri goes Big appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Hodinkee
Happenings: Bulgari's Serpenti Exhibit Opens In NYC
We paid a visit to the "Serpenti 75 Years of Infinite Tales" pop-up in NYC and went hands-on with some historical snakes.
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: Singer Unveils Road and Track Ready DLS Turbo, Why You Need a Vintage Jungle Jacket this Summer, & Starting Underwater Photography with the SeaLife Micro 3.0
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Singer Singer DLS Turbo Might Be Their Best Yet Via Singer Since 2009, Singer has continually raised the bar when it comes to reimagining the Porsche 911. With each design solely based on the 964 chassis, Singer has restored countless Porsche 911’s with no shortage of thoughtfulness and attention to detail. Their latest is a road and track version of a 934/5 distinguished by its accentuated curves, bold coloring and Singer’s patented DLS Turbo technology. Via Singer Dynamic and Lightweighting Study or DLS is a product of ingenious engineering combining contemporary materials and sheer mechanical power that gives this particular twin-turbo Singer approximately 700 horsepower at a touch over 9,000 rpm. Both the track-made Blood Orange and road-ready Black Moet models are characterized by a markedly wide frame and an aggressive rear silhouette that looks ready to fire off an afterburn at a moment’s notice. Brenden McAleer over at Car & Driver has the scoop on the eye-catching Singer DLS Turbos here. Ancient Mayan Ruins Discovered Deep Within The Yucután Jung...
Time+Tide
VERSUS: Is the Rolex Perpetual 1908 a Calatrava-killing value proposition?
Everyone was expecting Rolex to finally show some love to the Cellini line which, although by no means weak, just lost appeal as time went on. Not many expected the crown to show up to Watches & Wonders 2023 with a brand new collection however, which the Perpetual 1908 is the founding member of. As … ContinuedThe post VERSUS: Is the Rolex Perpetual 1908 a Calatrava-killing value proposition? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Roger Dubuis x Dr. Woo Monobalancier
The Roger Dubuis x Dr. Woo Excalibur Dr. Woo Monobalancier is a watch that combines the art of tattooing and the art of watchmaking in a unique and captivating way. The watch is the second collaboration between Roger Dubuis, a Swiss luxury watchmaker that specializes in Hyper Horology™, and Dr. Woo, a renowned tattoo artist from Los Angeles who has a distinctive style of fine lines and geometric shapes.
Time+Tide
Spending time with the Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date, a Teutonic take on a diver
It almost seems that no matter the brand, a dive watch always feels somewhat humble. Even with lavish decoration, extra complications and precious materials, the utilitarian nature of their purpose shines through. The Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date is a dive watch of the rarest breed - one that retains a level of refinery and … ContinuedThe post Spending time with the Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date, a Teutonic take on a diver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Chris Antzoulis
Editor’s note: This 3 watch collection for $5,000 is brought to us by Chris Antzoulis, who you may know on Instagram as @PoppingCrowns, who gives us a well reasoned, and well diversified trio of watches that aren’t short on personality. We love the mix of tones and colors, as well as the subtle details that remain to be discovered. You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. What was the most embarrassing phase of your life? Think about it…but, I’ll go first. I was (and still am on the inside) an emo kid. I listened to Yellowcard and Saves the Day, played in a band called Autumn’s Disaster (a disaster indeed), wore all black all the time and applied my mom’s eyeliner before playing shows. I wanted to highlight the heartbreak. Adult Chris has gained some perspective. In order to see color we have to embody it in a purposeful way. I view watches as an extension of my personality, and an intentional piece of an outfit’s design (my favorite piece). I’m no outdoorsman. My dive watches are lucky to see a pool, field watches would be perplexed by a hike up a mountain, and if you tell me you use your chronograph for more than just timing things in the kitchen for funsies, then I dub you a liar and a scoundrel! I don’t NEED tools; I am capable of being enough of one on my own, to then also have to wear one on the wrist. Joke’s aside, my choices for a three-watch collection under $5000 are...
Teddy Baldassarre
Formex Watches Guide
Formex Watches have been on the market since 2000 but the story of the Swiss independent brand’s success really begins with its revitalization in 2016, which marked a more streamlined approach to the product line and a new focus on direct-to-consumer online retailing. We spoke to Formex CEO Raphael Granito about the company’s origins, its new direction, and what distinguishes each of the models in its current portfolio. Formex Watch SA traces its conception to 1999 and its actual foundation to 2000. Based in Biel/Bienne in the Swiss canton of Bern, It was the passion project of Hans-Peter and Ferdinand Grädel, brothers with deep roots in the watchmaking industry and a shared enthusiasm for motorsports, and a group of their friends from the industrial engineering field. The company name “Formex” is a portmanteau of the French phrase “Forme Extrème” (or “extreme shape,”) a philosophy that is most evident in the earliest watch models produced by the brand (example above), which leaned into the high-tech automotive aesthetic of high-performance cars and motorbikes as well as the era’s propensity for large, bulky case sizes. The 46mm cases of the original Formex models, in fact, were designed specifically to put the founders’ signature technical achievement - the innovative, inner-case suspension system for the movement, a shock absorption device inspired by the suspensions in car engines - on full display. The patented system (below), which remains ...
SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces the Crash in Platinum
Cartier has returned to its most iconic, yet most elusive, design with the Crash London New Bond Street Exclusive. The new launch mirrors the Crash release of 2019 by keeping it exclusive to the New Bond Street boutique in London, only this time the case is in platinum. Initial thoughts A new Cartier Crash is always worth taking note of, especially when its design pays close attention to the original of 1967. While the brand has been noted for diligently recreating the looks from its past, none of them come close in terms of excitement among collectors than the Crash. Following up the yellow gold version of four years ago with this platinum model was a smart move by the brand, and has put clear thought into how to execute it. Notably, the vintage “London” Crash was never available in platinum so this is not so much a remake as a reinterpretation of history – one but executed very well. From the form of the case to the layout of the dial and hands, Cartier has done their utmost to respect what Jean-Jacques Cartier and Rupert Emerson had first imagined and besides a perhaps slightly questionable placement of “Swiss made”, they appear to have done a fantastic job. Not only has the dial design been slightly modified, but the brand has also updated the movement to use the cal. 1917 MC, perhaps an upgrade in terms of it being in house, though the construction of the cal. 1917 MC is not as sophisticated as the Jaeger-LeCoultre movement it replaces. Cartier has price...
SJX Watches
In Focus: Voutilainen Decimal Repeater GMT “L’Esprit du Bois”
Now best known for the Vingt-8 chronometer, particularly when combined with its exemplary and versatile guilloche work, Voutilainen also produces high complicated watches. Though the brand now largely focuses on the time-only Vingt-8, it once completed striking watches on a fairly regular basis. One of the best examples of such a chiming masterpiece is the Decimal Repeater GMT “L’Esprit du Bois” that was delivered a decade ago, when Voutilainen was a far smaller operation centred on its founder, Kari Voutilainen. This unique repeater is now available at Phillips Perpetual in London. Quintessential Voutilainen Before he found the success that led to the current three-year waitlist for the Vingt-8, Mr Voutilainen made perhaps two dozen repeaters (compared to hundreds of time-only watches), all equipped with refinished vintage ebauches. Most were decimal repeaters that struck the time in ten-minute blocks, as opposed to the quarter strikes of convention repeaters, making time telling more intuitive. “L’Esprit du Bois” is one of the most elaborate of Mr Voutilainen’s chiming watches. Delivered in 2013, the watch combines a decimal repeater and second time zone display, all presented in the quintessential Voutilainen manner with a case featuring teardrop lugs and a dial finished with a variety of guilloche patterns. But it is distinguished by something special: the hinged case back is entirely relief engraved and enamelled with a motif drawn from Greek mythology. ...
Worn & Wound
Our July 4th Sale is Now Live! – Windup Watch Shop
The 4th of July is right around the corner! It’s hard to believe that we’ve reached the halfway point of 2023, but what better way to celebrate than with a special July 4th Sale right here at the Windup Watch Shop?! Hotdogs, brews, and fireworks are great and all, but a watch will last you a lifetime! Here’s everything you need to know about the sale: The 4th of July is right around the corner! It’s hard to believe that we’ve reached the halfway point of 2023, but what better way to celebrate than with a special July 4th Sale right here at the Windup Watch Shop?! Hotdogs, brews, and fireworks are great and all, but a watch will last you a lifetime! Here’s everything you need to know about the sale: The post Our July 4th Sale is Now Live! – Windup Watch Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
Certina’s new all-purpose DS Action 34.5mm shows good things come in small packages
Certina is introducing a small wrist-friendly version of their capable DS Action diver in 34.5mm The collection consists of five references with classically coloured lacquer or blingier mother-of-pearl dials As part of the Swatch Group, Certina has access to the ever-popular ETA Powermatic 80, choosing it to power this new release Often overlooked for its … ContinuedThe post Certina’s new all-purpose DS Action 34.5mm shows good things come in small packages appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Found: A Rare 20th Anniversary Philippe Dufour Simplicity Hits The Market
Weeks after Dufour's 75th Birthday, one of his phenomenal watches could sell for big money.
Time+Tide
Chopard team up with BWD for the Mille Miglia GTS Power Control Bamford Edition ‘Desert Racer’
The Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Power Control Bamford Edition ‘Desert Racer’ is a 50-piece limited edition It comes with a robust bead-blasted titanium case, frosted black dial, orange accents, 60-hour COSC-certified movement This second edition succeeds their initial 2021 collaboration These days, most brands specialise in a specific segment of watches. Some skew towards strictly … ContinuedThe post Chopard team up with BWD for the Mille Miglia GTS Power Control Bamford Edition ‘Desert Racer’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Unveiling Bvlgari’s Only Watch 2023, The Marvelous Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon in Marble!
Wei has the pleasure of sitting down with Antoine Pin, the Managing Director of Bvlgari, in an exclusive interview as we enter into the enchanting world of the Bvlgari’s Only Watch 2023 entrant. The watch in question is the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon watch in marble is a testament to the extraordinary craftsmanship achieved by Bvlgari. The […]
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: NOS Full Kits, Classic Divers, & Unknown Chronos
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Nivada Grenchen CASD Starting this week off with a classic chrono-diver, the amazingly named Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver. I mean, could the name be any better? As great as the name is, the watch is even better. The Chronomaster is a timeless masterpiece, with simple, functional design that looks as good as it is functional. There are many different iterations of the Chronomaster, with different dials, hands and movements, but I feel this one is the best. Clean black dial with two black subdials and the broad arrow hour hand. The steel case measure about 38mm (seller doesn’t state this, but I have the same watch), and looks unpolished, with nice sharp edges on the beveled lugs. This example is powered by the buttery smooth Valjoux caliber 23 manual wind movement, which is a joy to use. The elapsed time aluminum bezel insert is in excellent condition, and the watch even comes on a Nivada signed bracelet! Seller states the watch keeps time and works properly, but there is some patina on the dial, so keep that in mind. View auction here. Hema Chronograph Another chronograph, but this one has a much bolder look to it. This circa 1960’s Hema (yeah, I’ve never heard ...
Worn & Wound
Tool/Kit: Road-tripping France with the Serica 8315 GMT Chronometer
Ten years ago, my wife and her sisters planned a trip to Paris for her mom’s 60th birthday. To prepare for that trip she signed up for French lessons with a couple from the Western Alps temporarily living in the States. We became fast friends. Finally, 10 years later, it was my turn to head not only to the City of Lights, but this time, to visit our friends in the mountains of France as well. Earlier this year, I was catching up with my friends Gabriel Vachette and Jérôme Burgert, the co-founders of Serica Watches, based in Paris. Serica is a relatively new watch brand, but they’ve managed to quickly establish themselves as an enthusiast favorite by creating clean, badgeless, modern watches that nod to vintage references, yet they also have a design language that’s all their own. I, of course, let them know of my pending visit to Paris and the roadtrip that would follow. I was thrilled to learn they’d be opening a new boutique right around the time when I’d be in town. The wheels instantly started cranking. I felt it’d make for a fun edition of Tool/Kit and they quickly agreed to lend me a model that I could pick up at the boutique toward the beginning of our excursion. I knew that they’d just released a CSOC version of their popular 5303 diver, so I naturally assumed that’s what they’d want to feature. But Gabriel, insightfully suggested, “You are traveling, you need a traveler’s watch.” He picked up their 8315 GMT Chronometer released at the Wi...
SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces the Pelagos FXD & Pelagos FXD Chrono “Alinghi Red Bull Racing”
Having signed on as a sponsor of America’s Cup contender Alinghi last year, Tudor now reveals a pair of watches created especially for the sailing team. The Pelagos FXD “Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition” and Pelagos FXD Chrono “Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition” both feature a carbon composite case – a first for Tudor – along with the functional design derived from the military-issue FXD dive watch. Initial thoughts I’m a fan of Tudor – its products are amongst the best value propositions across the entire industry – but its offerings have historically been limited in terms of design. In recent years the brand has gotten bolder in both styling and materials – the new pair demonstrate this. And if anything, they are probably the first of many more adventurous products from Tudor, something that is a natural evolution of the brand given the capacity of its big new manufacture. Although both stick to the design established by the original Pelagos FXD, they make it more interesting in terms of colour and a lot more interesting in terms of materials with the carbon composite case. The use of the lightweight composite will give both of them a featherweight presence on the wrist, despite the large case diameters of each. Despite the novelty in terms of materials, the new Pelagos FXD models remain squarely in Tudor’s favourite price segment. The time-only FXD costs a bit under US$3,700 while the chronograph is a little over US$5,000, making both strong value p...