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Revolution
In the maiden episode of our new series - The Collector’s Perspective, Constant sits down with Nop Srinara to share a conversation centred around their shared passion for watch collecting. Besides starting his micro brand, Vilhelm Watches, Nop is also the founder of The Octo Club, an appreciation club for the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo. The […]
Deployant
ArtyA extends their AquaSaphir collection of sapphire watches with four new references in a new cyan colour-way. Available in a gradient dial or meteorite.
SJX Watches
Continuing from the unique piece made for the previous edition of Only Watch, TAG Heuer again experiments with its racing model for the upcoming charity auction. The Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph for Only Watch is the brand’s first-ever mechanical split-seconds chronograph, and channels strong avant-garde styling. Initial thoughts Finally adding a mechanical split second chronograph to the brand’s capabilities is a significant step for a TAG Heuer, who stand on their history of producing sporting chronographs. In contrast to the Monaco Carbon from 2021, the watch exhibits a significantly bolder aesthetic, aligning more closely with what one would expect from Richard Mille. However, unlike its counterpart, TAG Heuer’s approach to skeletonisation is tastefully restrained, focusing on a minimalist display rather than an overtly flashy appearance. One potential drawback of this release is the auction estimate, which ranges from CHF150,000 to CHF300,000. The inclusion of the new calibre and the utilisation of premium materials can justify the higher price. However, it is worth noting that the price point is consistent with what last year’s model achieved, which was CHF290,000, despite only having an estimate of between CHF50,000 to CHF100,000. The winning bidder of this watch will also get a VIP experience of the Monaco Grand Prix next year, with access to the TAG Heuer hospitality suite, among other experiences over the weekend. Avant-garde design Expertly mergi...
SJX Watches
In 2017, the original Barbier-Mueller Mosaïque made its first public appearance at Only Watch. The collaborative efforts of longtime friends Stéphane Barbier-Mueller and François-Paul Journe, one being the preeminent independent watchmaker and the other a member of one of a Swiss real estate dynasty, this was an unexpected and rather pleasant surprise. Now, the pair have returned with the Mosaïque II, follow up to their initial offering, sticking to the same principles as before, but with the eye of watch designer Eric Giroud. Initial thoughts Those who are fans of the original will be pleased to see all of the main traits have been carried over to this latest version. The stone work on the dial, case and hinged caseback is all there, and the two hander runs on the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain movement – in fact, it is essentially an elaborately inlaid Chronomètre Souverain. If anything, they have elevated their previous efforts by incorporating more types of semi-precious stones in order to execute Mr. Giroud’s design. While Mr Giroud’s eye has given the Mosaïque II a different feel from its predecessor, the new watch still reflects Mr Barbier-Mueller’s interest in arts and culture, which was the basis for the original Mosaïque. Besides being a shareholder in F.P. Journe, Mr Barbier-Mueller is also a member of the family that established the Barbier-Mueller Museum in Geneva that’s famous for its world-class collection of tribal art. The original M...
SJX Watches
The Chronomètre Bleu has taken on somewhat of a cult status among the followers of F.P. Journe. So much so that it has leaked out beyond the brand’s group of core supporters to become one of the most sought after watches on the primary and secondary market today. This year, for Only Watch, F.P. Journe has decided to revisit this popular design and reimagine it as the Chronomètre Bleu Furtif Bleu, which is also a debut for an entirely new calibre. Initial thoughts While the Chronomètre Bleu is known for being popular among the wider watch community, F.P. Journe’s LineSport models still divide opinion, so combining the sport watch case with the eye-catching dial of the Chronomètre Bleu is a bold choice. Of course, as with everything that F.P. Journe does it is never completely straight forward, the dial on the Furtif Bleu is not a copy of what you see in the Chronomètre Bleu, instead it is translucent enamel with the numbers laser engraved for a matte finish. The one fault I can see with the design of these numerals is the oddly small “6” so as to accommodate “émail”. This feels like it throws the balance off ever so slightly. The aim of this watch appears to be to make it hard to read, with the very name of it making reference to it being difficult to read unless the dial is directly facing you. While the romantic view of this being that it makes telling time an entirely personal activity, it could also just lead to difficulty whenever in low light set...
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe has a history at Only Watch of producing groundbreaking Grand Complications, displaying what it is capable of at the highest end of watchmaking. The table clock from 2021 or the Grandmaster Chime from 2019 both exemplify these virtues. And it would appear that it is going to continue down this road with this year’s instalment as it introduces a Grand Complication in tribute to Philippe Stern, Patek Phillippe Honorary President and father to the brand’s current President, Thierry Stern. Philippe Stern (left) and Thierry Stern (right). While the details of this piece are currently lacking somewhat, the brand has announced that it has developed an entirely new movement for this watch and it features Philippe Stern’s favourite Grand Complication. This will not just be a one off either, the first one made will be of a unique design and auctioned at Only Watch, but after that Patek will go on to produce 30 more, in a strictly limited run, after which the movement will never be used again. This November Philippe Stern is set to turn 85, his son was quoted saying this about the upcoming watch, “this is a way of thanking him for everything he taught me and all the passion for excellence that he deployed in favour of Patek Philippe.” There will be more details about this watch to follow, with the auction being conducted by Christie’s at Palexpo in Geneva on November 5.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet (AP) is taking part in Only Watch for the fourth time with the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked 41 mm “Only Watch”. In contrast to the low-key Royal Oak “Jumbo” made for the 2021 instalment of the charity auction, this year’s one-off creation is exceptionally striking in blue and white. The latest Royal Oak “Only Watch” is based on the regular-production Royal Oak skeleton tourbillon but made unique with a white ceramic case and bracelet along with a movement featuring blued titanium bridges and plates. The case and bracelet material is notably uncommon for AP. While the brand has a fair number of Royal Oak models in black ceramic, there are fewer in white ceramic. In fact, there is only one regular production model in white ceramic, the perpetual calendar. In the past, there were also a handful of Royal Oak Offshore models in white ceramic, including a chronograph and Diver. According to AP, one of the notable features of the bracelet is not only the material, but also that fact that is secured with “invisible pins”. This presumably means the pins holding the bracelet together are concealed with ceramic caps. The cal. 2972 inside is open worked in an angular, stylised manner that is very much AP’s house style. The bridges and base plate are blued titanium, while the bevels of the movement retain the natural grey colour of titanium for contrast, giving each of the bridges a pronounced outline. The rotor is 22k gold but ...
SJX Watches
One of the most anticipated creations by an independent watchmaker at Only Watch 2023 is the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique. Almost certainly amongst the most valuable watches in the sale, the Chronomètre Antimagnétique (RRCA) is a time-only wristwatch in stainless steel containing a Faraday cage to protect the against magnetism. It is the third timepiece created by Rexhep Rexhepi, founder of Akrivia, for the biennial charity auction. Though the specifics of the watch remain under wraps, a few facts have been revealed in the announcement. The dial will be “sector” or “scientific” style, while the case is stainless steel and made by the workshop of Jean-Pierre Hagmann. Classically proportioned in the typical Rexhep Rexhepi style, the case measures 38 mm by 9.95 mm. Interestingly, the case features a double back comprised of an inner sapphire back and an outer back that can be unscrewed by the wearer. And most importantly, the movement is a new construction. While the Chronomètre Contemporain I and Chronomètre Contemporain II that Rexhep Rexhepi created for past instalments of Only Watch were variants of standard models, the RRCA is equipped with a calibre developed from the ground up for the model. The RRCCII calibre inside the timepiece made for Only Watch 2021 While I can’t say any more about the watch, I can state that the RRCA deftly combines historical inspiration drawn from the magnetism-resistant watches made by the great watchmakers of Gen...
Quill & Pad
Horophiles are pretty unique people and have some pretty unique traits and habits. In the theme of Jeff Foxworthy and his “you might be a redneck if” routine, John Keil pokes a little fun at our WIS brothers and sisters as well as ourselves. So without further ado, you know you’re a watch guy if . . .
WatchAdvice
The new Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni (8 Days) is a surprising watch and wearing it for a couple of weeks made me seriously consider the piece. But, not for the reasons I thought when I first saw the press release earlier this year! What We Love Vintage styled design aestheticGreat wearing, slim case profileThe textured, smoked gradient dial What We Don’t Case is a little too darkNo date (personal preference)Wire lugs take a little getting used to Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for money: 8.5/10Wearability: 9/10Design: 8.5/10Build quality: 9/10 When Panerai released the new Radiomir Otto Giorni (8 Days) back in March for Watches and Wonders, I was immediately drawn to it, the distressed case, the textured smoked dial and the classic Radiomir look. So when I had the option of what Panerai’s I’d like to review next, I immediately jumped at the Radiomir Otto Giorni in blue. The new Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni in blue First Impressions In my experience, press images and renders of watches either go one of two ways. They either make the watch look super cool and the actual piece is a little underwhelming in person, or it goes the other way – they really don’t do it justice at all. Laying eyes on the new Radiomir for the first time, my initial reaction was “This is not quite what I excepted!” but in a good way. The distressed steel was a little darker than expected, the case was thinner and the 45mm diameter case did not look or feel this big at all. And the texture...
Worn & Wound
Looking at the state of airplanes and travel fashion today, you’d be forgiven if you forgot that air travel was once seen as glamorous. Like the luxury sleeper trains that came before it, the jets of the mid-20th Century were not only a way to get from point A to point B, but to appreciate a level of style and service that has diminished over the last few decades. Fortunately, Timex is here to remind us of the golden days of jet-setting with their reissue of their Model 41, now redesigned as the World Time 1972 Reissue. Looking back through their archive, Timex has recreated a decidedly groovy watch for a modern audience. With its unique barrel-shaped stainless steel case and geometric red second hand, it’s a play on retro without looking dated. Most noticeable on the Timex World Time 1972 is the rotating bezel, which features 24 cities from around the globe. Originally designed for world travelers, the listed cities are marked by Greenwich Mean Time, and one has to simply rotate one’s current location with the hour hand, making the wearer able to traverse time zones easily to know if it’s lunchtime in Buenos Aires or aperitivo o’clock in Rome. You’ll notice that the spellings are in French as well, as this watch was originally made specifically for a European audience. Très chic. The watch’s case is a friendly 39mm with vintage-inspired integrated, downward-facing lugs. The Timex World Time 1972 Reissue is a quartz-movement watch and affordably priced a...
Time+Tide
The deeper history of dive watches will always be murky, especially on the topic of first-time achievements when simultaneous development had countless brands competing. When it comes to trend-setting however, there are some pretty obvious titans which spread their influence. The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and Rolex Submariner were both released in 1953, cementing a significant … ContinuedThe post How Zodiac started the funky colour trend appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Today Omega celebrated 75 years of Seamaster, and today we react to it all.
Hodinkee
The Ultra Deep gives us our darkest shade of blue for the Seamaster's 75th.
![[VIDEO] The Time & The Case For Strange Watches](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2022/10/SoLab_automatic_7536.jpg)
Worn & Wound
We review a lot of watches around here, and oftentimes that means judging them by their practical merits. These are practical tools at their base, afterall, but they can (and should) be more than that, especially these days when we all have quick access to the time on a myriad of devices surrounding us. In fact, if it weren’t for something we find compelling beyond the practical considerations, it’d be awfully hard for any of us to justify our presence here. In this video, we’re taking a look within our own collections at the watches which take a different approach. You could call them 4th watches, weird watches, or simply unique watches, but most importantly, they are watches that bring something a little different to the table. The spaces outside of the well understood genres and established design codes are the realm of the slightly odd, weird, or strange watch. Sometimes it’s a particularly creative solution to a problem, such as the crown lock mechanism of the PloProf, and sometimes it’s more abstract, such as the Fordite dial of the Arcanaut ARC II. Watches of this ilk are testing ideas, and how those ideas evolve or take hold in a broad sense has yet to be determined. The success of these watches is not predicated upon widespread adoption, of course, but rather, in their ability to captivate and provide a more engaging on-wrist experience. When it comes down to it, even if we’re drawn to something like the simple, tool-ish nature of military watches, the...
Worn & Wound
Just over two years ago, Oris came out with a series of watches with a bronze case and a confectionary dial. At the time, the interplay of the pastel-colored watches against such a warm-toned metal was an instant hit for many in the watch world. It was only a matter of time before the Swiss brand would be revisiting the Divers Sixty-Five Cotton Candy collection and improving upon it. Today, Oris has launched the much-anticipated follow-up to their 2021 collection with a new set of pieces, this time set in steel. The three colorways of this collection are a charming trio of blue, green, and pink. Still maintaining the candy-like quality of the previous iteration, the steel will definitely have a wider fanbase that, perhaps, couldn’t be sold on the bronze just yet. Keeping the integrity of the Divers Sixty-Five retro design, the new Cotton Candy collection’s steel case enhances the mod design that’s at once retro and modern. The steel case comes in at a friendly 38mm, the first time the Divers Sixty-Five has been available in this metal at this size in a non-limited edition, which is sure to please many. The easy to wear size makes it great for both men and women who might find the pop of color exciting. Wearers can choose between a steel bracelet or a perlon strap that matches the watch’s dial, giving one the opportunity to keep it subtle or a bit more flamboyant. The details of this watch really showcase the amount of thoughtfulness that has gone into the design ...
Hodinkee
'70s-era proportions are just one highlight of this new deep-diving anniversary Seamaster.
SJX Watches
In an era of modern and accessible digital technology, the utilitarian role of mechanical timekeepers has inevitably dwindled. Yet, it is still pursued as a luxury of an artform – either of the highest finishing by hand that can’t be performed by machines, or the research and development in making a mechanical timepiece – in particular wristwatches – as accurate as possible. One of these horological pursuits, to preserve the accuracy of mechanical wristwatches, is the supply of a constant force to the escapement. To isolate the varying torque as a mainspring gradually unwinds, some haute horlogerie watches today incorporate either a fusée-and-chain or a remontoir, which supplies a steady torque to the escapement for stable timekeeping. However, there is one particularly novel take on constant force released by Girard-Perregaux, in the form of a proprietary escapement. First unveiled as a prototype in SIHH 2008, the Girard-Perregaux Constant Escapement has a patented, double escape wheel system that is designed from the ground up to inherently have a built-in constant force system, thus eliminating the need of a remontoir or a fusée-and-chain. Despite being first created 15 years ago, Girard-Perregaux (GP) is still further developing the escapement today, with a new set of patented improvements publicly available – strongly hinting at a revamped model in the near future. These patents make it worth a deep dive into the original Constant Escapement (CE) fr...
Hodinkee
To celebrate, we see the return of a closed caseback on the SMP300m.
Worn & Wound
Last year’s Massena LAB collaboration with Louis Erard, a regulator in an unmistakably classic style with variants in gold and rhodium dial executions, was a success for both brands, with the watch being shortlisted for the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. This week, that release gets a follow up in the form of the new Le Chronographe Monopoussoir Louis Erard x Massena LAB, a monopusher chronograph that shifts the design language of last year’s release to a new complication. The driving force behind Massena LAB, to make a style of watchmaking typically reserved for only the most well heeled collectors accessible to anyone, is very much apparent in the new monopusher, as it takes both a complication and visual aesthetic that are often associated with a certain level of opulence and made them quite a bit more approachable. The monopusher is an interesting counterpoint to last year’s regulator. In terms of mechanical complexity, the monopusher has a clear edge, yet the design here is striking in its restraint. The regulator shows its time telling information in a busy cluster of hands and subdials, but with the monopusher we only get one additional register, a 30 minute counter at the 12:00 position. It’s a simple and straightforward execution of a complication that can often be something of an eye chart, and with the single pusher that simplicity is carried over to the chronograph’s literal operation as well. Aesthetically, we get a similar treatment on the ...
SJX Watches
Louis Erard has once again joined forces with Massena LAB for another take on a common complication. Le Chronographe Monopoussoir draws inspiration from 19th century pocket watches and continues with the styling from the first time these two brands collaborated. Initial thoughts Louis Erard’s brand identity is continually shaped and defined by its many partnerships. Its latest collaboration with Massena LAB continues this creative streak with a relatively classical complication in the form of a mono-pusher chronograph. Building upon their collaboration from last year, the latest timepiece has kept the distinctive grained dial that is industrially finished but well executed. They have opted for a more restrained design by having just a single register at twelve, deviating from the traditional two- or three-register configuration of most chronographs. Despite the minimalist aesthetic, the watch is very big at 43 mm wide and 15.7 mm thick. The thickness in particular is a lot and the size may turn some people off. The carries a substantial presence on the wrist, arguably too much for a watch of this style. One reason for the size is the movement, which is the same Sellita calibre found in all Louis Erard chronographs, including the Alain Silberstein iteration. For that reason, it also remains in the same price range, with a retail of US$4,950, making it fair value as an interesting yet affordable chronograph. At the same time, this distinguishes itself through the class...
Hodinkee
From stone dials to the Polo, Piaget was the height of elegance in the 1970s. Can it ever return?
Hodinkee
A full ceramic, car-inspired piece of horology.
Worn & Wound
After a successful weekend in San Francisco, the highly anticipated Windup Watch Fair is heading back to the vibrant city of Chicago from Friday, July 14, through Sunday, July 16, 2023. Returning to Venue West, in the heart of the Windy City, we’re excited to reconnect with the energy and excitement that makes The Second City such an integral hub among our community. First time attendees will find unique opportunities to explore the latest timepieces and connect with fellow horology aficionados. Now in its ninth year, Windup Watch Fair has become a must-attend event for watch enthusiasts, collectors, and industry professionals. The Fair showcases a wide range of watches, from independent microbrands to well-established manufacturers, offering attendees an unparalleled chance to discover and experience a diverse selection of timepiece and, new this year, regional EDC heavyweights like Oak Street Bootmakers Venue West, located at 221 N Paulina St, Chicago, IL 60612, in the West Loop neighborhood of Chicago, provides the perfect backdrop for the Windup Watch Fair. The location is easily accessible for both local visitors and those traveling from out of town and a perfect jumping off point to explore Chicago’s rich history. We’re already building our lists of nearby restaurants, nightlife, and other Chicago mainstays to visit during off-fair hours. As always, the Windup Watch Fair is free and open to the public. We’re able to offer this open access with the support o...
Worn & Wound
I have a soft spot for asymmetrical cases. Whether it’s my trusty Speedmaster or my own personal resin-cased Marathon Navigator, something about the offset case shape just hits different. Today, I’m excited to take a look at one of Marathon’s newest offerings - the Navigator in stainless steel. Upon trying it on for the first time, it just immediately clicked. This watch feels like it was made to be rendered in the matte stainless steel. This Canadian-designed and Swiss-manufactured watch is part of a solid lineup of MIL SPEC watches that are built to withstand the toughest conditions. Originally designed for paratroopers, pilots, and law enforcement, the Navigator is a no-frills watch that’s built like a tank. One of the best parts about it is how it wears, it wears deceptively small for its measured size due to the handsome asymmetrical case. Let’s take a closer look at this tough offering from Marathon that I believe makes an excellent everyday watch. We’ll also be making some comparisons between the stainless steel version and the original resin case. But first, let’s get a brief history lesson on this MIL SPEC watch and how it came to be. The military specification “MIL-W-46374” is used by the US military to address their specific needs for wrist watches. Originally developed in 1964 during the Vietnam War, this spec has undergone several different revisions, currently sitting at Rev. G, which it’s remained at since 1999. The original spec lack...
SJX Watches
Habring² continues its focus on affordable, interesting complications with the Chrono-Felix Top-Second. Dressed in a retro-military dial, the Top-Second is powered by the brand’s proprietary A11 movement like all Habring² watches. But it features a new (old) complication, the “Top Second”, essentially a running seconds indicator camouflaged within the “9” hour marker. Initial thoughts The Top-Second encapsulates the Habring² specialty of well-priced and interesting watches. It’s a chronograph with a complication that is the only one of its kind in modern-day watchmaking and priced under US$9,000 including 20% Austrian tax. That makes it excellent value – as is typical of Habring² – particularly considering the proprietary movement. Granted, the 1930s-military styling of the watch is fairly generic, though appealing in its functional nature. That said, Habring² is versatile when it comes to design and the brand typically unveils variations of its models so it is likely the Top-Second will return in other guises soon. Honest, affordable, and interesting First introduced in the 1960s by Mondia, a brand soon after acquired by Zenith, the Top Second is a discreet running seconds indicator. A coloured disc spins beneath a small aperture on the dial, showing that the seconds are passing and the movement is running without the need for a constant seconds hand. The Habring² take on the complication operates on the same principles as the Mondia original. A prop...
Time+Tide
There is a crucial moment in the existence of an independent brand when it adds mechanical movements to their core collections. This change seems to be as important as removing the training wheels from a kid’s bicycle, or getting that first job after college. This is important because mechanical movements are trickier to use and … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Nezumi Voiture is a milestone chronograph model for the Swedish brand appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Just this week, we released our latest collaboration with Vero, the ADPT Workhorse Limited Edition. Featuring a 44.5mm cylindrical mid-case coated in ceramic coating (Cerakote), we were able to not just use a gorgeous aqua tone that almost perfectly matches the dial, we were able to give a spritz of white. Applied in such a way to create random flecking, no two versions of the VERO x ADPT Workhorse are exactly the same. Like all Workhorses, this piece was made for the outdoors and although it comes on a summer ready white self-closing fabric strap, we put this watch to the strap test by modeling some ADPT nylons on it. We’re happy to report, it is the strap monster we hoped for! Just this week, we released our latest collaboration with Vero, the ADPT Workhorse Limited Edition. Featuring a 44.5mm cylindrical mid-case coated in ceramic coating (Cerakote), we were able to not just use a gorgeous aqua tone that almost perfectly matches the dial, we were able to give a spritz of white. Applied in such a way to create random flecking, no two versions of the VERO x ADPT Workhorse are exactly the same. Like all Workhorses, this piece was made for the outdoors and although it comes on a summer ready white self-closing fabric strap, we put this watch to the strap test by modeling some ADPT nylons on it. We’re happy to report, it is the strap monster we hoped for! The post The New Vero x ADPT Workhorse Limited Edition Is A Strap Monster – Windup Watch Shop appeared first ...
Time+Tide
There’s no questioning the icon status of Heuer among racing chronographs, and one of the main reasons is the Monaco. Boldfaced imitators aside, there really isn’t another watch like it, and for good reason: it was a tough nut to crack. Putting a then-new automatic chronograph movement in a square case (and then making the … ContinuedThe post The new TAG Heuer Monaco Skeleton sends the racing classic accelerating toward the future appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The new blacked-out Promaster "Fugu" diver is the brightest of Citizen's new watches.
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