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Every Rolex GMT-Master and GMT-Master II: Pepsi, Coke, Batman, Batgirl, Sprite, Root Beer, Polar.
40 mm × 11.85 mm, lug 20 mm, Cal. 3285
40 mm × 11.85 mm, lug 20 mm, Cal. 3285
40 mm × 11.85 mm, lug 20 mm, Cal. 3285
Quill & Pad
Close to 120 years after Abraham-Louis Breguet patented the tourbillon, master watchmaker Alfred Helwig (1886-1974) created a “flying” tourbillon at the German School of Watchmaking in Glashütte. The flying tourbillon became somewhat characteristic of Glashütte and lives on in a few very special watches today. Who was Alfred Helwig? Find out here.
Quill & Pad
Petermann Bédat is a young company comprising a youthful duo of independent watchmakers by the names of Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat. Their first watch features a deadbeat style of seconds created with the help of grand master Dominique Renaud. Our friends at The Watches TV hosted Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat in their Geneva studio to find out more. Watch their talk here!
SJX Watches
Having debuted its first online watch auction earlier this year, Phillips returns with the second instalment, Intersect, once again offering a cross-category selection spanning watches, art, and jewellery. Made up of 110 lots – a third are watches – the auction is live from now until 6 pm (GMT+8) on September 14. While the line up naturally features the usual suspects like Rolex and Patek Philippe, it also includes watches from independent brands like H. Moser & Cie., Daniel Roth, and Urwerk, as well as a notably artisanal pair if Chopard L.U.C watches decorated with maki-e. Some highlights of the sales are included below, and the full catalogue is available here. [Full disclosure: Lots 97 and 98 were consigned by our founder SJX.] Lot 15 – Rolex Daytona ref. 116520 Having been overshadowing by its successor with a ceramic bezel (and other more recent sports models), the Daytona ref. 116520 is relatively good value in the world of Rolex sports watches. Interestingly, the ref. 116520 was the first Daytona to boast the in-house cal. 4130, and also the last to have a stainless steel bezel. The present watch is offered in well-preserved, “full set” condition, with an unusual extra – the Rolex Japan sticker on the case back once found only on Rolex watches sold in the country. It has an estimate of HK$94,000-190,000, or about US$12,100-24,400. Lot 30 – Urwerk UR-202 in white gold A pioneer in avant-garde watchmaking best known for its atypical displays of time, Ur...
Revolution
Greuble Forsey gives their Balancier a sporty twist with the Balancier S that takes on the new case form introduceded with last year’s GMT Sport.
Time+Tide
It was one of our most popular ‘who to follow’ posts ever. @barnfindwatches stepped up to the plate way back in 2017 to share some of his secrets as a master bargain hunter. His key takeaways are below, but before we get into them, let’s call out something important. The massive spike in traffic when … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The barn find edition, how to hunt for valuable vintage and what to look out for appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
The nature of time. At first glance, the phrase reads as if some form of pseudo philosophical jargon, the kind of slogan born in the Grand Seiko PR departments internship program. That is, until you hold a Grand Seiko in your hands, until you feel the piece and experience the brands physical manifestation of their philosophy. For the past week or so, I have been taking a look at the Grand Seiko SBGM221 GMT. A watch from the Elegance line of Grand Seiko, and for that week I have found myself both enamoured and underwhelmed by the nature of this timepiece. As a brand, Grand Seiko prides itself in their craftsmanship, they have been heralded for the famed Ziratsu polish, and admired for the intricacy and complexity of their dials. So it should be noted right away, the finishing and construction of the SBGM221 is first class. The watch has clearly been held to a very high standard during production, nothing is out of place, nothing is even remotely undercooked. The SBGM221 spans a precise 39.5mm in diameter by an equally precise 13.7mm thick. Lug to lug the watch measures 46.3mm, this is achieved by the use of dramatically yet elegantly down curving lugs which hug the piece on to your wrist. I have a wrist size of 17.5cm and found the piece was right in the sweet spot of comfort for me personally, the watch could comfortably be worn down to as little as 15cm due primarily to the curvature of the lugs. The case of the SBGM221 is where I found the most wonder within the watc...
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: There’s the simple fact that Seiko are turning up the heat on the Swiss watch industry, and then there’s the way they’re doing it. Both are 100% worth taking note of. For example, let’s re-examine the Seiko Prospex LX SNR035J, a high-spec Spring Drive GMT at a shade under $8000AUD, that carries with it a murdered … ContinuedThe post The Seiko Prospex LX SNR035J looks like it’s been sent to put a hit on anyone that questions its (high) price point appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
This limited edition GMT diver comes along to tempt armchair travelers.
Revolution
Omega’s new central tourbillon is now Master Chronometer certified and anti-magnetic to 150,000 gauss.
Deployant
Master engraver Kees Engelbarts announces a new series - the Dragon Gate Collection with the first installment out of a total 3, the Jumping Carp.
Time+Tide
For some time now, I think we can all agree, Longines has been on a hot streak like few other brands. All of their additions to the fantastic Heritage Collection have ranged from commendable to award-winning fire, and new iterations of the HydroConquest and Master Collections have continued to punch well above their RRP weight. They … ContinuedThe post Live pics and prices of the new aviation-themed Longines Spirit Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 2020 Collection is their best in years Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Control collection has long been a benchmark for subtlety in the execution of style, with each movement, from simple three handers to chronograph calendars, being the definition of art meets mechanics. In 2020’s online edition of the Watches & Wonders fair, the Swiss maestros unveiled … ContinuedThe post A deep dive on why the new 2020 Jaeger-LeCoultre collection has excited us so much appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Jaeger-LeCoultre's CEO talks grand comps, Master Control, and the digital future of watch communications.
Deployant
Junghans, the master of the minimalistic design following the Bauhaus styling, releases a collection of 4 new solar timepieces in their Max Bill collection.
Hodinkee
A new GMT with a British Racing Green Mount Iwate dial.
Deployant
This year, Jaeger LeCoultre (JLC) launched five new models in the inaugural digital Watches & Wonders 2020. Press Release (edited for brevity) with commentary. There are four new pieces from the Master Control collection, and a new Reverso One collection for the ladies. Introducing: Master Control Collection Since it was introduced in 1992, JLC’s MasterRead More
Revolution
Vacheron Constantin creates a pair of exceptional, highly complicated, and romantic wristwatches conceived by the master watchmakers of Les Cabinotiers.
Revolution
The Luminor Luna Rossa GMT and Submersible EcoPangaea Tourbillon GMT 50MM Mike Horn Edition offers us a taste of the ocean.
Hodinkee
A limited-edition GMT dive watch in honor of "Nims" Purja's incredible record-annihilating ascent of the world's highest peaks.
Revolution
The story of how two friends and master watchmakers, Jean-Marc Wiederrecht and Roger Dubuis, gave the world its first bi-retrograde perpetual calendar.
Deployant
In the world of bicycling, the master artisans are much like watchmaking.We take a look at the Responsorium, the masterwork Dario Pegoretti.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Breguet has a remarkable history of producing clocks and watches that were designed for travel. Whether it’s the marine chronometers made to set sail across the world’s oceans, or the more conventional GMT wristwatch, the brand has always understood the human urge to seek what is over the horizon. With the Hora Mundi … ContinuedThe post Breguet travel watches and the spirit of exploration – the Hora Mundi ref. 5717 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
The newly revamped Omega Constellation Gents’ Collection, featuring a number of new aesthetic upgrades, has also been given Master Chronometer status.
Deployant
Bell & Ross releases three new professional inspired watches for urban explorers: the BRV2-93 GMT Blue, BRV2-92 Military Green, BRV2-94 Aerovondale Bronze.
SJX Watches
Slightly retro and conventionally shaped, the Bell & Ross Vintage line is a popular counterpart to the brand’s better-known, all-square BR 01 and 03. The Vintage collection gets three new models at Baselworld 2020 – namely a time-only, GMT, and chronograph – including the BR V2-94 Aéronavale Bronze limited edition. Notably, the new BR V2 watches are offered with a type of elastic fabric strap secured by a small hook, often known as an “MN” strap. That’s short for Marine Nationale – the French navy – and reputedly comes from the fact that such straps were originally fabricated by from parachute webbing by French navy personnel, who were said to have been issued watches without straps. Named after l’Aéronavale, the air arm of the French navy, the BR V2-94 limited edition is inspired by the colours of the French navy’s dress uniform. So the dial is a dark, metallic blue, matched with gold-plated hands and hour markers, and a bronze case. And bezel is fixed and features a blue, anodised aluminium insert that allows for measurement of elapsed time. The 41 mm case is made of CuAl7Si2 bronze, an alloy that’s almost all copper, save for 7% aluminium and 2% silicon. Over time, the alloy acquires a brownish surface oxidisation, in contrast to the green verdigris of more common bronze alloys. And like the other BR V2 chronographs, this is powered by an ETA 2894-2, which is an ETA 2892 base with a chronograph module on top. The other additions to the line wi...
Hodinkee
Diving for gold with a new GMT that benefits the Coral Restoration Foundation
Time+Tide
There is a plethora of watches out there with an equally large amount of claims. First watch with a date complication. First watch with a GMT complication. First waterproof watch. However, of all the watches on sale today, the coolest claim surely has to be: “The first watch worn on the moon.” I’m sure that … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED WATCHING: How NASA tested the Omega Speedmaster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The master clockmaker is setting his sights on wristwatches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
It’s been a long time coming. Finally, after sitting on this for a bit, I’m ready to share some thoughts about the Monta Atlas GMT. Recently, work and life have managed to brutally pull me under-but when a great watch has to be written about, I do my best to share my review when I can. Monta is the product of a new era of microbrands pushing into uncharted territory with a controversial pivot toward four-digit price points.
Quill & Pad
Part two of Sotheby's Masterworks of Time offers more than 30 impressive masterpieces from A. Lange & Söhne’s illustrious history as well as rare pocket watches by Adolf Schneider, who worked alongside Ferdinand Adolph Lange in Glashütte, their master Johann Christian Friedrich Gutkaes, and many other historical delicacies sure to have your heart beating faster!
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