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Patek Philippe online sales have not kicked in the crisis, and 3 other key takeaways from Eric Ku’s lecture for the HSNY Time+Tide
Patek Philippe online sales have not Oct 26, 2020

Patek Philippe online sales have not kicked in the crisis, and 3 other key takeaways from Eric Ku’s lecture for the HSNY

With the ongoing pandemic, everything and everyone has had to adopt new means and methods of connecting and gathering. Each month the Horological Society of New York – who recently visited Melbourne to give watchmaking classes – would have in-person lectures that take a deep dive into the fascinating world of horology and the watch … ContinuedThe post Patek Philippe online sales have not kicked in the crisis, and 3 other key takeaways from Eric Ku’s lecture for the HSNY appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Chopard Introduces the Mille Miglia 2020 Race Edition SJX Watches
Chopard Introduces Oct 26, 2020

Chopard Introduces the Mille Miglia 2020 Race Edition

Watchmaker and jeweller Chopard has a long been associated with classic cars, owing to its co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, who is a passionate collector of vintage automobiles. As a result, Chopard has been a sponsor of the Mille Miglia classic-car rally since 1988 – with Mr Scheufele himself taking part each year. Chopard has released a commemorative edition for each Mille Miglia since, this year’s Mille Miglia 2020 Race Edition is very much in the style of the classic Mille Miglia edition, but more restrained with a black diamond-like carbon (DLC) coated steel case – or dressed up with a rose-gold bezel. Racing champion Jacky Ickx with the new Mille Miglia chronograph Initial thoughts Though based on the standard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph, the 2020 edition has been given an all-black treatment, which Chopard has also recently applied to its L.U.C ultra-thin dress watch. The DLC-coated case is matched with a dial in muted colours that’s also been sandblasted for a matte, grained finish, as have the hands, which results in a coherent, clean look. This year’s version feels more contemporary than many earlier editions of the Mille Miglia chronograph, many of which were dressed in bright, racing colours like green or red. And its dark case finish also makes it feel a little smaller, which is helpful for a relatively large watch. But while the watch looks good and is a limited edition, it’s priced a little steeply at US$6,700 in steel (and an extra...

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The Seiko Prospex SLA043J1 is the less expensive version of the $10k Seiko Prospex SLA037J1 Time+Tide
Seiko Prospex SLA043J1 Oct 26, 2020

The Seiko Prospex SLA043J1 is the less expensive version of the $10k Seiko Prospex SLA037J1

For us, there was only one effective way to rate and review the luxurious Seiko Challenger diver, the $9995AUD Seiko Prospex SLA037J1, a re-creation of Seiko’s first dive watch, the 62MAS, launched in 1965. And that was to put it up against a brand nobody baulks at spending that kind of money for a diver: … ContinuedThe post The Seiko Prospex SLA043J1 is the less expensive version of the $10k Seiko Prospex SLA037J1 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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MICRO MONDAYS: The Serica 4512, a tough French take on classic military utilitarian chic Time+Tide
Serica 4512 Oct 25, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: The Serica 4512, a tough French take on classic military utilitarian chic

The WMB came out in 2019 as an unusual and strong contender from the newly formed French microbrand Serica, through an idea from the only American on the team, author of A Man & His Watch, Matt Hranek. Inspired by the iconic Wrist Watch Waterproof of the armed forces, a tough-looking everyday tool watch with … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Serica 4512, a tough French take on classic military utilitarian chic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Our Predictions In The Mechanical Exception Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Exceptional Circumstances Split Down The Middle Quill & Pad
Oct 25, 2020

Our Predictions In The Mechanical Exception Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Exceptional Circumstances Split Down The Middle

The Mechanical Exception category features men’s or ladies’ watches with a special mechanism such as an innovative or sophisticated display, an automaton, a belt-driven movement, a striking or other acoustic function, or any other original and/or exceptional horological concept. And we surely have an intriguing set of finalists in the Mechanical Exception category this year: everything from a tumbling triple-axis tourbillon to an electronically controlled hybrid timepiece to a paper-thin mechanical watch and an automaton minutely replicating a 16-cylinder engine. And even more!

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Throwback Sundays: Six Luxury Sports Watches with the Chronograph Complication, From Our Archives Deployant
Oct 25, 2020

Throwback Sundays: Six Luxury Sports Watches with the Chronograph Complication, From Our Archives

Luxury sports watches have seemed to undergo a revival in recent years, with the introduction of numerous interpretations from multiple watch manufacturers.  More recently, manufacturers have went beyond just making luxury sports watches. In this month alone, we have seen two manufacturers launching luxury sports watches with the chronograph function. Perhaps this is the organicRead More

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Recommended Reading: Setting the Royal Clocks in Windsor Castle SJX Watches
Oct 25, 2020

Recommended Reading: Setting the Royal Clocks in Windsor Castle

As daylight savings time ended in the United Kingdom, the full-time horological conservator at Windsor Castle was setting some 400 clocks, one at time – a task that takes some 16 hours. As documented in a recent BBC story, horologist Fjodor van den Broek is responsible for all the clocks at Windsor Castle, while a colleague oversees the timekeepers in Buckingham Palace. Aside from the once-a-year task of setting the clocks for daylight savings time, Mr van den Broek has to wind all of them once a week, which takes an entire day. And he also keeps all of the clocks in running order, performing repairs in his workshop, which is also equipped to fabricate replacement parts for the movements. The story also covers some of the Mr van den Broek’s favourites in the castle, which include a lavish, porcelain-panelled clock gifted to Queen Victoria in 1844 by King Louis-Philippe of France. The 1844 clock given to Queen Victoria Other notable timepieces in the castle – the castle itself is home to about 250 clocks – include a 1740 organ clock that plays music by Handel, and houses a rock crystal casket that contains the bible owned by Gordon of Khartoum. You’ll find the full photo report on the BBC.  

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Hermès New Watches For 2020 Featuring The Daringly Different Aaaargh! (Video) Quill & Pad
Hermes Oct 25, 2020

Hermès New Watches For 2020 Featuring The Daringly Different Aaaargh! (Video)

Our friends at The Watches TV had a chance to see the Hermès watches for 2020 – and they (and we) were in luck to also hear from La Montre Hermès CEO Laurent Dordet. Host Marc André Deschoux goes through the new Hermès pieces one by one, beginning with the 2020 L’Heure de la Lune, the first version of which launched in 2019, which he thinks is "A super-hot watch.” Things go seriously wacky from there.

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IN-DEPTH: The TAG Heuer Carrera Collection, powered by a movement from the present, with an all-time classic design from the past Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Collection powered Oct 25, 2020

IN-DEPTH: The TAG Heuer Carrera Collection, powered by a movement from the present, with an all-time classic design from the past

As a watch journalist in 2020, based in Europe under the draconian rule of the pandemic, it’s easy to lose perspective and here is a particular example. Despite my missionary preachings and personal taste, 38-39 millimetres is not the Goldilocks size for everyone. So, with this self-realisation in mind, the  TAG Heuer Carrera Collection is … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The TAG Heuer Carrera Collection, powered by a movement from the present, with an all-time classic design from the past appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Ressence Type 2A/2G: Is This Electronic-Mechanical Hybrid Timepiece The Future Of Mechanical Watchmaking? Quill & Pad
Ressence Type 2A/2G Oct 24, 2020

Ressence Type 2A/2G: Is This Electronic-Mechanical Hybrid Timepiece The Future Of Mechanical Watchmaking?

With concept cars, it is typical for most of the features on the prototype to be weeded out once the design is optimized for manufacturing. The electronical-mechanical Ressence Type 2 is the complete opposite, Joshua Munchow says, as it has retained pretty much every single thing the concept watch of 2018 offered and has only improved in function. Is the Ressence Type 2 the future of mechanical watches?

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“The grey market is a creation of the brands, and they need to address it.” The virtual Horology Forum 2020, brought to you by Dubai Watch Week, kicks off with a bang Time+Tide
Doxa Australia Launch Event to pack Oct 24, 2020

“The grey market is a creation of the brands, and they need to address it.” The virtual Horology Forum 2020, brought to you by Dubai Watch Week, kicks off with a bang

It feels like a lifetime ago that I was heading home from the DOXA Australia Launch Event to pack my bags for Dubai Watch Week 2019. Since then, the global pandemic put a stop to any in-person watch events (with the exception of the LVMH Watch Week and more recently at a socially distanced Geneva Watch … ContinuedThe post “The grey market is a creation of the brands, and they need to address it.” The virtual Horology Forum 2020, brought to you by Dubai Watch Week, kicks off with a bang appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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MY YEAR WITH: The Casio G-Shock Full Metal GMW-B5000GD-9. Did the gold eventually get old? Time+Tide
Casio G-Shock Full Metal GMW-B5000GD-9 Oct 24, 2020

MY YEAR WITH: The Casio G-Shock Full Metal GMW-B5000GD-9. Did the gold eventually get old?

Never, in my life, have I had more comments on my watch. From friends. From strangers. No one can help but notice my full metal gold-tone G-Shock (the Casio G-Shock Full Metal GMW-B5000 variant GD-9). But if you’ve met me, or follow me on Instagram, you’ll likely know that I tend to lean towards simple, … ContinuedThe post MY YEAR WITH: The Casio G-Shock Full Metal GMW-B5000GD-9. Did the gold eventually get old? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Bulgari x The Rake x Revolution “White Light” Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT is seriously lit Time+Tide
Bulgari x Oct 24, 2020

The Bulgari x The Rake x Revolution “White Light” Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT is seriously lit

One of the key pillars of a well-made watch is legibility. Consumers are always critical of how a dial is laid out and how strong and visible the luminescent material becomes once it’s in a darker setting. The Bulgari x The Rake x Revolution “White Light” Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT brightens up 2020 with its … ContinuedThe post The Bulgari x The Rake x Revolution “White Light” Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT is seriously lit appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Hublot Introduces the Meca-10 Clock SJX Watches
Hublot Introduces Oct 23, 2020

Hublot Introduces the Meca-10 Clock

Time-only but visually and mechanically interesting, the Hublot Meca-10 wristwatch has a skeleton movement inspired by Meccano, the children’s construction toy. Now it’s been blown up – by a multiple of four – to create the Meca-10 Clock. Created in collaboration with Swiss clockmaker L’Epée, best known for the clocks it has made for MB&F; and Chanel, the Meca-10 Clock retains all of the key features of its wristwatch counterpart, namely the skeletonised construction and lengthy, 10-day running time. The clock and the watch that inspired it Initial thoughts Compared to the prolific, sci-fi clocks of MB&F;, the Meca-10 is more traditional. But it sets itself apart technically with its purpose-built, 10-day movement. In contrast, clocks by other brands express themselves in terms of case architecture, and mostly rely on the same the L’Epée 8-day movement. The Meca-10 has a straightforward, square case that resembles the typical Hublot Big Bang. The highlight is the movement, which originated in Hublot’s own movement development department led by Matthias Buttet, the brand’s resident technical guru, and subsequently built by L’Epee. The result is a clock that is legible and mechanically interesting, just like the Meca-10 wristwatch, giving the clock a similar sort of appeal. But the Meca-10 clock is surprisingly expensive, starting at US$47,400 for the steel version. That can be justified to a degree by the unique movement, but it’s still twice the pric...

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Biver looks to 2021 and says that “most brands will have a V-shaped recovery” to the pandemic Time+Tide
Hublot Oct 23, 2020

Biver looks to 2021 and says that “most brands will have a V-shaped recovery” to the pandemic

We recently reported on Jean-Claude Biver’s view of the pandemic, after he sat down on a Zoom call with our European Editor Mike. The larger piece of work there was this extraordinary historical document, celebrating a wild 24 years with Hublot. But this digression, where Biver assesses the damage done to the industry by COVID-19 … ContinuedThe post Biver looks to 2021 and says that “most brands will have a V-shaped recovery” to the pandemic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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VIDEO: Finally…! The Bulgari Octo Finissimo satin-polished steel with blue dial captured in glorious high definition here Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo satin-polished steel Oct 22, 2020

VIDEO: Finally…! The Bulgari Octo Finissimo satin-polished steel with blue dial captured in glorious high definition here

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo has seen the update it was waiting for this year, with the announcement in January that it was going to be produced in steel. The months since that announcement have felt both very slow and very fast at the same time, and some may have missed that the Bulgari Octo Finissimo … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Finally…! The Bulgari Octo Finissimo satin-polished steel with blue dial captured in glorious high definition here appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: In celebration of the people behind the Time+Tide scenes, including our proofreader Jeff Time+Tide
Cartier watches to her staff each Oct 22, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: In celebration of the people behind the Time+Tide scenes, including our proofreader Jeff

Jeff Jenkins is the author of the last article published on Time+Tide, about a scandal engulfing Australia Post. It is his first-ever story on Time+Tide. In a nutshell, the CEO of Australia Post Christine Holgate gifted four Cartier watches to her staff, each worth around $3000. You can read more below. The point isn’t the story, … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: In celebration of the people behind the Time+Tide scenes, including our proofreader Jeff appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Watch, out! The Cartiers that might cost a career Time+Tide
Cartier s Oct 22, 2020

Watch, out! The Cartiers that might cost a career

What would you think if the boss handed out a stack of Cartier watches to reward you for your efforts this year? We’d say that sounds like a pretty great place to work. (And, yes, this story is a thinly veiled hint to T+T boss, Andrew, as he plans this year’s Christmas bonuses) ((Dream on, … ContinuedThe post Watch, out! The Cartiers that might cost a career appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Mass gains! Hublot are peak 2020 as they release a mechanical desk clock FOUR TIMES the size of the Meca-10 model Time+Tide
Massena Lab MB&F; Oct 22, 2020

Mass gains! Hublot are peak 2020 as they release a mechanical desk clock FOUR TIMES the size of the Meca-10 model

In Scandinavia we have a traditional saying: all good things come in threes. And, boy, does this apply to clocks in 2020. First, the Hodinkee table clock that broke the internet and brutally maimed the comments section, then the futuristic T-Rex from Massena LAB, MB&F; and L’Epée. And here comes lucky number three – the … ContinuedThe post Mass gains! Hublot are peak 2020 as they release a mechanical desk clock FOUR TIMES the size of the Meca-10 model appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Fugue Introduces the Fiction One SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Oct 22, 2020

Fugue Introduces the Fiction One

Founded just three years ago, Fugue got its start with a watch featuring a modular case with interchangeable lugs. The brand’s second model is altogether more interesting, the Fiction One. Powered by an automatic Sellita movement, the Fiction One has an intriguing mystery dial – the hands appear to be floating over its surface with no connection to the central axis. Available for pre-order on crowdfunding platform Kickstarter until end October, the Fiction One is available in two dial variations, white and smoked grey. And it is affordable, with a price of €350, or about US$420. [Update December 10, 2020: The original Kickstarter campaign for the watch did not meet its target, but Fugue is doing it a second time, offering the watch at a slightly lower price, as well as a smaller minimum quantity. The new campaign closes January 8, 2021.] Initial thoughts “Microbrands” tend to capitalise on designs that are the flavour of the day, reusing classic sports-watch designs for affordable watches. So amidst its crowdfunded peers, the Fiction One is refreshing. That said, the mystery time display is an old invention, dating to early 19th century when it was invented by French magician Jean-Eugène Robert Houdin.And in the mid 20th century, the Galaxy watch with mystery hands was produced by several brands, most notably LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin, and Longines. Fugue takes inspiration from those wristwatches, successfully reinterpreting the idea to create something mod...

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