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Beads of Rice Bracelet

Mid-century steel bracelet with discrete bead-shaped links; Gay Frères, NSA, Novavit; modern Forstner revival.

J.N. Shapiro Introduces the Resurgence SJX Watches
May 22, 2023

J.N. Shapiro Introduces the Resurgence

Having made a name for himself as a guillocheur, Joshua Shapiro has taken things a step further with the launch of the Resurgence, the most thoroughly American-made wristwatch since 1969. The Resurgence offers several features that are unique within the increasingly crowded field of high-end independent watchmaking. It is a customisable product that offers an almost unlimited number of dial, case, and movement combinations; it’s possible that no two watches will be alike. Almost every aspect of the watch, from the elaborate guilloche dial, engine-turned case, and customisable in-house movement, is surprisingly interesting and original. Initial Thoughts I first met Joshua in 2019 after the launch of the Infinity Series, and even then he was keen to discuss his vision for creating an in-house American-made movement that would live up to the quality of his guilloche work. But I must admit the Resurgence has exceeded my expectations, especially in terms of finishing. As a guilloche specialist, Joshua does not disappoint with the multi-part guilloche dial. Its construction reminds me of the dial found in the Roger W. Smith GREAT Britain, a one-off watch made in 2015 for the British government’s tourism campaign of the same name. But while the construction is similar, the Resurgence dial possesses its own aesthetic that steps out from the shadow of Swiss or British-style guilloche. At US$85,000 in gold and US$70,000 in steel, the Resurgence is priced at the upper end of the ...

Christie’s Rare Watches May 2023 Auction Featured a Patek Philippe Nautilus Tiffany Blue, Gérald Genta with Royal Provenance, F.P Journe Resonance, De Bethune and Much More Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Nautilus Tiffany Blue Gérald May 22, 2023

Christie’s Rare Watches May 2023 Auction Featured a Patek Philippe Nautilus Tiffany Blue, Gérald Genta with Royal Provenance, F.P Journe Resonance, De Bethune and Much More

There were many surprises in the Christie’s Rare Watches auction in Geneva on May 13. Some satisfying, some disappointing. At a preview held by Christie's in late March and early April during the Watches & Wonders show in Geneva, Alexey Kutkovoy was able to see and examine several lots in detail. Here are a few of the results that caught his eye.

Highlights: Notable Independents at Christie’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe timepieces May 22, 2023

Highlights: Notable Independents at Christie’s Hong Kong

Having covered the extraordinary Patek Philippe timepieces and the single-owner “Ultimate Collection” in Christie’s upcoming Important Watches auction in Hong Kong, we now shift gears and look at the sales’s line-up of independent watchmaking. The independents in the sale are of course led by big names like Richard Mille and F.P. Journe – amongst the latter’s offerings in the sale is the rare Tourbillon Souverain in the colours of the Chinese flag. But alongside these six- and seven-figure watches (in U.S. dollar terms), are some underrated watches that might be value buys, notably the Ulysse Nardin Freak Lab. And then there’s the simply whimsical with the Konstantin Chaykin Clown II. Important Watches (lots 2201-2360) begins at 1:00 pm on May 26 – the catalogue is available here. The “China 2010” dial Lot 2215: Ulysse Nardin Freak Lab While Ulysse Nardin is not an independent watchmaker in the strictest sense of the term, it isn’t owned by a luxury group. And the Freak is still an avant-garde watch over two decades after its introduction, a watch so exotic it seems to have emerged from mind of a talented independent watchmaker. Which is true: it was conceived by Carole Forestier then refined and perfected by Ludwig Oechslin. So the Freak certainly makes the cut in this independents feature. And this particular Freak is incorporates some notable innovations. Historically a platform for movement-technology experimentation, the Freak evolved into the F...

Studio Underd0g’s whimsical offerings are now available in the Time+Tide Shop! Time+Tide
Studio Underd0g May 22, 2023

Studio Underd0g’s whimsical offerings are now available in the Time+Tide Shop!

While there’s plenty of (micro)brands out there doing their thing in their own unique way, there is no brand out there that quite does it like Studio Underd0g. Their funky two-register chronographs have captured the hearts of enthusiasts ever since they first released in 2020, stemming from unique, often food-related, inspiration. We’re excited to offer … ContinuedThe post Studio Underd0g’s whimsical offerings are now available in the Time+Tide Shop! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Roundup: Dive Down, Dress Up, or Light The Path With This Week’s Picks Worn & Wound
May 21, 2023

The Roundup: Dive Down, Dress Up, or Light The Path With This Week’s Picks

The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up. The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up. The post The Roundup: Dive Down, Dress Up, or Light The Path With This Week’s Picks appeared first on Worn & Wound.

WHAT IF… There were no more Rolex waitlists? Time+Tide
Rolex waitlists? If you ask May 21, 2023

WHAT IF… There were no more Rolex waitlists?

If you ask the average person to name a watch brand, they’ll most likely say Rolex. Such is the power of the company which arguably perfected the sports watch, and also transformed wristwatch marketing methods with memorable campaigns and endorsements. In terms of pure dollars, Rolex dominate the Swiss watch industry as well, with US$9.7B … ContinuedThe post WHAT IF… There were no more Rolex waitlists? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Patek Philippe at Christie’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe May 21, 2023

Highlights: Patek Philippe at Christie’s Hong Kong

After covering the notable in the upcoming auction of an impressive single-owner collection, we now turn to the highlights in Christie’s main sale, Important Watches. Made up of 159 lots, the sale encompasses a remarkable line-up of Patek Philippe timepieces, from the quirky and historically important, like the brand’s smallest-known repeater, to the contemporary and magnificent Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 5002R featuring a special-order black dial. Important Watches (lots 2201-2360) begins at 1:00 pm on May 26 – the catalogue is available here. But the most significant watch in the sale is undoubtedly the ref. 2523 world time with a cloisonné dial depicting the North American continent, one of three known to exist. Given its importance and value, the ref. 2523 will be sold as the sole lot in a dedicated auction. The ref. 2523 will be sold at 7:00 pm on May 28 – more can be found here. The ref. 2523 with a cloisonné dial Lot 2306: Patek Philippe Pocket Watch with the Smallest Known Repeater Compact yet exceptional, this Patek Philippe pocket watch dates to 1888 and is just 24.5 mm in diameter. According to Christie’s, this pocket watch is smallest known minute repeater ever made by Patek Philippe. It was most likely commissioned by a Spanish or Latin American customer, as indicated by the margins on the movement in Spanish. This pocket watch has a white enamel dial with Roman numerals in black for the hours and oversized minute numerals in gilt print. Several hai...

5 reasons you need to be familiar with the Omega Speedmaster Reduced Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster Reduced It’s fair May 21, 2023

5 reasons you need to be familiar with the Omega Speedmaster Reduced

It’s fair to say that the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch is one of the most famous watches of all time, up there even in the minds of the uninitiated. As the watch that went to the moon and thrived on racetracks, it’s cemented a strong legacy within horological history and has become a stylistic icon. As … ContinuedThe post 5 reasons you need to be familiar with the Omega Speedmaster Reduced appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why the Patek Philippe Nautilus is King – Reprise Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Nautilus May 21, 2023

Why the Patek Philippe Nautilus is King – Reprise

After reading article after article discussing the virtues of Patek Philippe's Nautilus, it became clear to watch enthusiast and Quill & Pad reader Perry Heim that none stated a self-evident truth that appears obvious to him. In this "letter to the editor" Perry explains in detail what he finds so appealing about the Patek Philippe Nautilus Reference 5711. And he stacks the Nautilus up against some serious contemporary contenders.

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Digital Meets Analog with the Teenage Engineering TP-7, Quite Carry Premieres The Drift Large Contoured, & the Svelte Voigtländer Ultron 27mm Prime Lens Worn & Wound
May 20, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Digital Meets Analog with the Teenage Engineering TP-7, Quite Carry Premieres The Drift Large Contoured, & the Svelte Voigtländer Ultron 27mm Prime Lens

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Teenage Engineering Teenage Engineering’s TP-7 Equips The Digital Recorder An Analog Feel Via Teenage Engineering You can bet that anything produced by Teenage Engineering is going to have a clean and distinguishable design. With a focus in developing high quality, Swedish designed electronics and synthesizers, there’s a consistent level of attention to detail across their range of products. Their latest is the TP-7 – a compact field recorder that combines their unique design language with an appealing analog feel. Via Teenage Engineering The TP-7 is built to record in all sorts of situations, from recording music to logging important thoughts for later on. Each button is strategically placed so that every function is accessible in the palm of your hand. The main feature is its mechanical tape reel which allows you to conveniently scrub through previous recordings or seamlessly navigate the TP-7 menu. Plus the actual look and feel of the center wheel adds to the cool factor that is sure to speak to all of us analog lovers. The Teenage Engineering TP-7 will r...

Buffy’s top 3 Baltic picks from the T+T store Time+Tide
Baltic picks from May 20, 2023

Buffy’s top 3 Baltic picks from the T+T store

If you’ve been paying attention to Time+Tide lately, I’m sure you’ve become aware that our store now stocks Baltic watches. As one of the world’s most beloved microbrands, this is an incredibly exciting time to start getting involved with their elegant range of retro divers and dress pieces. I tend to prefer smaller watches with … ContinuedThe post Buffy’s top 3 Baltic picks from the T+T store appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Editorial: Happenings at the Geneva Spring Auctions 2023 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nautilus ref 5980/1400G – May 20, 2023

Editorial: Happenings at the Geneva Spring Auctions 2023

The Geneva auction weekend is typically a good barometer for where the market is headed in the near term because it’s the opening act of the season, with the Hong Kong and New York sales following later in spring. At the same time, the Swiss city is also where many of the serious players and would-be players turn up during the auctions, perhaps because its more central location compared to its North American and Asian counterparts. Inching downwards Trends that became clear last season – six months ago – continued into the spring sales. Most obviously, the values of “hype” watches have continued to creep downwards. This was exemplified by the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5980/1400G – white gold and entirely set with diamonds – that sold for CHF533,400 including fees. While times were good, the model was a million dollar (or franc) watch – the exact same watch sold for CHF937,500 a year ago at Phillips. More notably, the last time an example, before the pandemic at Christie’s in 2018, it achieved CHF612,500. Prior to the auction season, independent watchmaking appeared to be resisting the forces of gravity, with demand and prices for such watches continuing to be robust. Now it appears the genre is enduring the same decline as sports watches with integrated bracelets. Take for example the unique Voutilainen Minute Repeater 10 with a steel case and open dial sold at Phillips for CHF342,900 – a solid result but more or less its original retail price. Just ...

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Thomas S. Worn & Wound
Seiko Alpinist SARB017 – $600 May 19, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Thomas S.

Editor’s Note: In this edition of the 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Thomas S. brings us a capable trio that isn’t afraid to step off the well beaten path. There’s new stuff, hard to get stuff, and kinda (but not really) old stuff, all bound by a great sense of style and practicality. If you’d like to submit your own 3 watch collection for $5,000 can you do so at the form right here.  I’m a minimalist at heart. That doesn’t mean I always succeed. As far as watches are concerned, I certainly have more than three (though proudly less than ten). I’ve spent the last couple of years working towards attaining my own perfect three watch collection. These watches are the core of what I take traveling, and are the most worn of all of my watches. I find it a well-rounded collection, if still leaning towards being sporty. As my collection grows (and shrinks) over the years, I anticipate these three watches remaining at the forefront of my collection. Seiko Alpinist SARB017 – $600 – $1000 The SARB017 was the first mechanical watch I ever bought myself. I picked it up just after Seiko quietly discontinued it, and was lucky enough to get it well under what they are selling for now, new or used. With the trusty and near-indestructible 6R15 caliber inside, the Seiko Alpinist SARB017 holds its own as a daily work watch beater. I should know, I wear it often when climbing and pruning trees as an arborist. The crown guards and second crown at 4 o’clock bely the A...

Vulcain Continues Revival With New Chronograph 1970’s Worn & Wound
Vulcain Continues Revival May 19, 2023

Vulcain Continues Revival With New Chronograph 1970’s

Vulcain has been around in one form or another since the mid-1800s. A few ownership changes, some rocky years, a shutdown, and two eventual revivals make up the long and rocky road that is the Vulcain brand. If you’ve heard of the brand before, it’s most likely that the Cricket is the watch you’re familiar with. The Cricket gets the most attention, being worn on the wrists of American Presidents and having a unique alarm complication that made it stand out from the pack. While the Cricket is great, there’s another watch that doesn’t get quite as much attention, but definitely deserves it, and that’s the Chronograph 1970’s. This new release from Vulcain is a true-to-form recreation of a watch they released back in the 1970s, right down to the spot-on vintage proportions. Let’s dig in and take a closer look at this charming 38mm chronograph from Vulcain. $2781 Vulcain Continues Revival With New Chronograph 1970’s Case Stainless Steel Movement Sellita SW510 M BH Dial Black on Black, semi-gloss sunray Lume Yes, hands and markers Lens Double domed sapphire with AR coating Strap Black leather Water Resistance 5 ATM Dimensions 38x46mm Thickness 12.4mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Push/Pull Warranty 2yr Price $2781 Case Vulcain’s vintage proportions and style are spot-on here. Measuring 38mm wide by 12.4mm thick (a hefty portion of that taken up by the double domed sapphire crystal), the Chronograph wears like a dream. It’s not just about the dimensions, because the ...

Now In The Windup Watch Shop: Nitecore x Boldr Go Prehistoric On A New Collab Worn & Wound
Boldr Go Prehistoric May 19, 2023

Now In The Windup Watch Shop: Nitecore x Boldr Go Prehistoric On A New Collab

Boldr is an exciting young brand based our of Singapore and Malaysia and they really live up to their mantra of “Be Boldr”. With an impressive lineup of tool watches under their belt, Boldlr is becoming known for their serious value proposition, crafting spec-packed watches that fall within very reasonable price ranges. Today, we’re happy to announce that their newest collaboration with Nitecore is now in the Windup Watch Shop. Let’s take a look at this unique and fun meeting of the brands, where the result is a dinosaur-themed mashup that’s sure to bring out your inner child. Boldr is an exciting young brand based our of Singapore and Malaysia and they really live up to their mantra of “Be Boldr”. With an impressive lineup of tool watches under their belt, Boldlr is becoming known for their serious value proposition, crafting spec-packed watches that fall within very reasonable price ranges. Today, we’re happy to announce that their newest collaboration with Nitecore is now in the Windup Watch Shop. Let’s take a look at this unique and fun meeting of the brands, where the result is a dinosaur-themed mashup that’s sure to bring out your inner child. The post Now In The Windup Watch Shop: Nitecore x Boldr Go Prehistoric On A New Collab appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Three post-sale lessons from Sotheby’s Important Watches Parts I & II Time+Tide
May 19, 2023

Three post-sale lessons from Sotheby’s Important Watches Parts I & II

Following on from Sotheby’s Important Watches: Part I and Part II on the following day, it’s always interesting to go through and assess not only the value of the watches themselves but any emerging trends and patterns. Whether you’re trying to figure out what the next best investment piece may be, or just keeping up … ContinuedThe post Three post-sale lessons from Sotheby’s Important Watches Parts I & II appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: A. Lange & Söhne at Phillips’ Hong Kong SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne May 19, 2023

Highlights: A. Lange & Söhne at Phillips’ Hong Kong

Having seen covered the best of independent watchmaking as well as notable complications and artisanal timepieces in Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVI, we turn to highlights from one brand: A. Lange & Söhne. Long a brand somewhat under the radar and appreciated only by enthusiasts, Lange started to pick up in desirability over the last three years, resulting in record prices at auction for rare or sought-after models. Consequently, Lange offerings at auctions in general have risen in quantity – but also quality with more and more unusual timepieces coming to market. The Phillips catalogue includes 16 Lange wristwatches and we pick out some of the best, including the 1815 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst to an unusual Little Lange 1 Soirée with a bezel set with pink sapphires. Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be found here. The 1815 Tourbillon Handwerkunst Lot 817: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk (first generation) Now discontinued in favour of the updated version, the original Zeitwerk is arguably one of Lange’s most important watches. It remains one of the few digital-display watches even over a decade after its launch in 2009 – and is probably the most mechanically robust and reliable.  This example is in white gold with a black dial, a high-contrast combination that made it the bestselling iteration of the first-generation models. It was the only version with a dark-colour dial; the other versions, namely yellow gold, pink gold, and platinum, ...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Breguet x Frieze exhibition is back in NYC until May 21 Time+Tide
Breguet x Frieze exhibition May 19, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Breguet x Frieze exhibition is back in NYC until May 21

On Wednesday afternoon in New York City, I returned to The Shed at Hudson Yards to check out the new Frieze exhibition of which Breguet is a proud sponsor. With eight floors hosting phenomenal artwork from renowned galleries and artists around the world, it is a great space to immerse yourself in various cultures and … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Breguet x Frieze exhibition is back in NYC until May 21 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Doxa SUB 300T Clive Cussler delivers a dial fit for a pirate Time+Tide
Doxa SUB 300T Clive Cussler May 18, 2023

The Doxa SUB 300T Clive Cussler delivers a dial fit for a pirate

A friend of mine has this saying. Whenever he would see something old, he would point at it and say, “Old but good”. A rusty old Land Cruiser, a guitar that has endured years of abuse on stage, whatever it is, it’s old but good. We have a fascination with objects that have taken on … ContinuedThe post The Doxa SUB 300T Clive Cussler delivers a dial fit for a pirate appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

eBay Finds: King Seiko, Rado Simplon, & More Full Kits Worn & Wound
Seiko Rado Simplon & More May 18, 2023

eBay Finds: King Seiko, Rado Simplon, & More Full Kits

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage King Seiko 45-7000 King Seikos were one of Seiko’s high end dress watch lines, and to this day they are still highly under-rated. This model, the 45-7000 is easily one of their best ever designs. A classic example of Seiko’s “Grammar of Design”, with bold flat planes and sharp edges on the stainless steel case. The clean silver dial with no date and the manual wind hi-beat movement make it nearly perfect. I can tell you from experience that this model is very difficult to find in excellent condition, having looked for one for about 10 years. Recently I found one from a seller in Singapore, otherwise I’d be buying this example myself! The case has been refinished, which I would usually avoid, but it was done by Lapinist who does simply stunning work and actually finishes the cases with the same Zaratsu technique as Seiko. This one also comes with a super cool see-through caseback (still has the original too), so you can see that beautiful movement! View auction here. Vintage CWC Chronograph Here we have a brilliant vintage military issue chronograph. This CWC two-register chrono has markings indicating it was issued to the British Royal Air Force. The large 39m wide a...

[VIDEO] Inside the Collection: Three Lasting Divers Under $5,000 Worn & Wound
Tudor Sinn May 18, 2023

[VIDEO] Inside the Collection: Three Lasting Divers Under $5,000

We’ve been inundated with incredible dive watches in recent years, at a wide range of price points, but particularly under $5,000, where dive watches belong. There are three examples in particular that represent this trend, and all three have remained standard bearers in the subsequent short years since releasing. Each of these watches reveal something important about Tudor, Sinn, and Seiko, in that even when it comes to straight forward tool watches, they can still surprise us in the best of ways. We’ve written plenty about these three watches since their releases, and today we’re looking at how they’ve come to form the core of my own dive watch rotation. Recent trends point to something of an unraveling of the typical genre labels, as well as an embrace for watches that lean toward the formal end of that equation, at minimum alongside the more tool-ish watches that have enjoyed the spotlight in the recent past. However, there’s something comforting about a classic diver, like grilled cheese and tomato soup, that always keeps people like me coming back. These are the kinds of watches that I end up reaching for more than any other on the day to day, as practical (and handsome) companions for my lifestyle. These are the watches that seem to transcend style trends that shift from era to era in the most blunt of manners.  In this video, I walk through each of these watches and why they’ve remained in my own watchbox since their release, and how well they’ve sto...

Vulcain Cricket “Style Moderne” for Revolution & The Rake with Guillaume Laidet Revolution
Vulcain Cricket “Style Moderne” May 18, 2023

Vulcain Cricket “Style Moderne” for Revolution & The Rake with Guillaume Laidet

Wei sits down with Guillaume Laidet of Vulcain to discuss the new Vulcain Cricket ‘Style Moderne’ limited edition for Revolution & The Rake. The Vulcain Cricket dates back to 1947 when it was introduced as the world’s first mechanical alarm watch, powered by the now-legendary caliber 120. The alarm worked with a hammer that struck […]

Highlights: “The Ultimate Collection” at Christie’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts We round May 18, 2023

Highlights: “The Ultimate Collection” at Christie’s Hong Kong

Having concluded its Geneva sales that included an F.P. Journe thematic auction, Christie’s will soon open its spring sale season in Hong Kong. The auctioneer’s watch offerings include an impressive line-up of watches assembled over two decades by an Asian collector. Christened The Ultimate Collection, the selection is composed of 107 timepieces – almost all modern – ranging from Rolex to F.P. Journe. Although the watches are diverse, the collector’s keen eye can be discerned. The catalogue includes classic must-haves like various examples of the Rolex Daytona and GMT-Master II, but also rare and special watches from F.P. Journe as well as possibly-unique Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts. We round up nine notable picks from the sale, including the headline lots from F.P. Journe – a Chronomètre à Résonance “RTA” with a mother-of-pearl dial and the Tourbillon Souverain Coeur de Rubis. The “Coeur de Rubis” dial Other highlights including a Patek Philippe Dome Clock that was originally owned by Jean-Claude Biver of Hublot and Blancpain fame, along with uncommon variants of the landmark Lange 1, including the Lange 1A and ref. 101.027X. The Ultimate Collection takes place on May 26 at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre (HKCEC) – the catalogue is available here. Lot 2537 – F.P. Journe Centigraphe Souverain Anniversaire “Hong Kong”  In 2016, F.P. Journe marked the 10th anniversary of its first ever boutique (which was in Tokyo) with the ...

The Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman 41 is more compact but just as functional Time+Tide
Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman 41 May 18, 2023

The Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman 41 is more compact but just as functional

The Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman 41 tames the beastly watch into a friendlier package. The case has been refined for comfort and accessibility. Its dial has also been simplified for a calmer appearance with no loss of spirit. The Hamilton brand has a long-standing history in supplying both militaries and Hollywood with task-specific watches, and … ContinuedThe post The Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman 41 is more compact but just as functional appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Masse Mystérieuse: Its Ingenious Gearing is Simply Magical – Reprise Quill & Pad
Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Masse May 18, 2023

Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Masse Mystérieuse: Its Ingenious Gearing is Simply Magical – Reprise

The Rotonde de Cartier Masse Mystérieuse appears magical thanks to the apparent lack of any connection to the case while putting most of the mechanics on full display. It may be a time-only watch with no complications or tourbillons, but it is a most impressive accomplishment. Joshua Munchow explains the magic trick.

Raketa Introduces Avant-Garde “The Horophile” SJX Watches
Raketa May 18, 2023

Raketa Introduces Avant-Garde “The Horophile”

A Soviet-era watchmaker, Raketa has been rejuvenated by investors and a team advised by Manuel Emch, the former chief executive of Romain Jerome. The brand has brought back designs from its archives, while also producing new models inspired by its past. Falling squarely into the latter category, the Avant-Garde “The Horophile” takes it cues from Communist art while the palette comes courtesy of Amr Sindi, the Swiss-based watch influencer known as The Horophile. Initial thoughts In a relatively short time Raketa has managed to create a distinctive identity with its unique aesthetic. Precisely because of their Soviet-era style, many of the brand’s watches might seem drab. The new Avant-Garde, in contrast, stands out with its bright colours. It will certainly appeal to someone who appreciates the Raketa design but wants something more lively. Price-wise the Horophile edition is no different from the standard model. At €1,650 before taxes, the watch is reasonably priced, although Raketa movements generally could do with a bit more window dressing, even at the price. The purple rotor in the Horophile edition goes some way in improving the view from the back. Bolshevik art The dial of the Avant-Garde is inspired by Beat the Whites with the Red Wedge, one of the best-known works by artist El Lissitzky, one of the proponents of the Russian avant-garde movement that flourished from the late 19th- t0 early-20th centuries. A 1919 propaganda poster, the work shows a red wedge ...