Hodinkee
Photo Report: A Night Of Watches & Tailoring With Brunello Cucinelli In Los Angeles
A master tailor from Italy and a collection of interesting timepieces made for quite a night.
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Every Rolex GMT-Master and GMT-Master II: Pepsi, Coke, Batman, Batgirl, Sprite, Root Beer, Polar.
40 mm × 11.85 mm, lug 20 mm, Cal. 3285
40 mm × 11.85 mm, lug 20 mm, Cal. 3285
40 mm × 11.85 mm, lug 20 mm, Cal. 3285
Hodinkee
A master tailor from Italy and a collection of interesting timepieces made for quite a night.
Time+Tide
Watches with complications - like the chronograph, moonphase or, in this case, the GMT - are less about practical function and more about possibility. Sure, these watches are designed to excel on the road (or in the air for that matter), but for most wearers, that is an infrequent reality. Still, the possibility of far-off places … ContinuedThe post Have watch will travel – 5 GMTs under $5K that are ready to hit the road appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Back in January, Panerai unveiled the Luna Rossa Challenger Submersible Carbotech, which kicked off the watchmaker’s official sponsorship of Luna Rossa, the challenger of the 36th America’s Cup that takes place in 2021. And now the brand has introduced three Luminor watches – the Luna Rossa Regatta (PAM01038), the Luna Rossa Chrono Flyback (PAM01037), and the Luna Rossa GMT (PAM01036) – dedicated to the sailing syndicate, which has fellow Italian brands Prada and Pirelli as its main sponsors. Only just unveiled at the Salón Internacional Alta Relojería (SIAR) watch fair in Mexico City, the three watches are characterised by high tech materials that also used in Luna Rossa. The watches share the same monochromatic palette, with a distinctive “sandwich dial” made up of a lower dial plate with luminous paint for the numerals that’s capped with an upper dial plate covered in sailcloth from Luna Rossa. Though each use different case materials, they all share the same titanium case back engraved with the Luna Rossa and the team logo. Luminor Luna Rossa Regatta (PAM01038) A dedicated yachting chronograph, the Luminor Luna Rossa Regatta is the flagship model of the range. It has a 47mm case in Carbotech, a proprietary carbon fibre-reinforced polymer, making it massive but lightweight. First introduced in 2015, the material is produced by layering sheets of carbon with a polymer resin in between to create a light and strong composite with a woodgrain appearance. ...
SJX Watches
Founded in Scotland five years ago by industrial designer Lewis Heath, Anordain is one of the most unusual “microbrands” as it managed to master – straight out of the gate – one of watchmaking’s most prized crafts: vitreous enamel, often known as grand feu enamel in Swiss watchmaking. As a result, the brand manages to offer some of the most affordable watches with fired enamel dials, mostly priced under US$1500. Following the success of the inaugural Model 1 last year, the brand has just unveiled the Model 2, a compact, hand-wound, two-hander with a modern, minimalist design. Most notably, two versions of the watch feature a fired, translucent enamel done over a hammered surface. Like all Anordain’s standard enamel dials, the new hammered, enamel dial is done in-house. Located in Glasgow’s East End, Anordain’s workshop includes its own three-person team of enamellers that can produce eight to nine dials a week, usually in bright, unusual colours such as pink or a translucent bottle green. Design nuances Inspired by classic field watches – the no-nonsense wristwatches made for armies in the first half of the 20th century – the Model 2 was designed entirely in-house, from the case to the typography and hands. And just like vintage field watches that are small by modern standards, the Model 2 measures a discreet 36mm in diameter and 11mm in height. Its balanced proportions are indeed reminiscent of field watches, albeit in a more refined and formal ma...
Time+Tide
Linde Werdelin has once again teamed up with master engraver and artist Johnny “King Nerd” Dowell to create this – the Linde Werdelin Oktopus Volcano. Dowell, who was an engraver at the notable British gun makers James Purdey & Sons for 15 years, has previously worked with Linde Werdelin to create the Oktopus Reef and … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Linde Werdelin Oktopus Volcano appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
We caught up with AHCI Japanese Master watchmaker Masahiro Kikuno and saw the Wadokei Temporal Hour watch. He is exhibiting at JeweLuxe, drop by to visit.
SJX Watches
Launched by Breitling almost two decades ago as an upsized, sportier version of the then bestselling Chronomat, the Avenger has just been revamped into a streamlined collection made up of facelifted watches. Still retaining the styling of earlier generations of Avengers, the line is now made up of chronographs in three sizes (48mm, 45mm and 43mm cases), automatics in 45mm or 43mm cases, and a GMT. All models are rated to 300m and have a stainless steel case as standard. But the 45mm and 48mm watches are available in Night Mission livery – the best looking iteration – which means a black-coated titanium case and dial featuring military-inspired “stencil” numerals. Super Avenger Chronograph 48 Night Mission All the chronographs have the same basic specs, and the same COSC-certified Valjoux 7750 movement. The flagship model is the Super Avenger Chronograph 48, an enormous 48mm watch that’s probably too big for most, making the 45mm and 43mm chronographs more viable. The best looking watches of the line is the Avenger Chronograph 45 Night Mission, which manages to have a more modern military style that’s distinct from most other military aviation-type watches. Breitling ambassador and retired astronaut Scott Kelly The Average Automatic 45 Seawolf is a 45mm dive watch, powered by the Breitling Calibre 17, which is an ETA 2824. The specs are shared by the Avenger Automatic 43 that’s 43mm. Avenger Automatic 45 Seawolf And the last model is the Avenger Automati...
SJX Watches
To mark the Singapore Grand Exhibition, which is now into its second day, Patek Philippe has unveiled a special-edition World Time Chronograph ref. 5930G-011 for the Southeast Asian market. Limited to 300 pieces, the watch has a white gold case paired with a smoked, red guilloche dial that darkens towards the edges. It features a dark grey city disc, on which “Singapore” replaces “Beijing” for the time zone of GMT+8. The rest of the watch is identical to that of the standard version that was first unveiled in 2016 with a white gold case paired with a blue dial. It measures 39.5mm wide and 12.8mm in height, which is rather impressive considering it houses a full-rotor movement, with a vertical-clutch, column-wheel flyback chronograph as well as a world time module. A corrector pusher at 10 o’clock advances the cities disc, hour hand and 24-hour scale in one-hour increments. All that needs to be done is to set the city corresponding to the local time zone to the 12 o’clock position. The local time will be indicated by the hands while the time in all other time zones can be read off the 24-hour scale. The 30-minute counter for the chronograph is located at six o’clock, while the seconds scale for the chronograph is located between the cities and 24-hour discs. Visible through the sapphire case back, the CH 28-520 HU movement is based on the CH 28-520 chronograph caliber, controlled by a vertical clutch, with the addition of a world time module based on the co...
SJX Watches
The Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Singapore 2019 opened today for a sneak preview of the monumental showcase of watchmaking and horology. It includes everything from watchmaker demonstrations to a look into the art of enamelling, explained by no other than master artisan Anita Porchet herself; more on those in upcoming stories (or you can also buy the hardbound catalogue with proceeds going to charity). For now, here’s a peek at the highly anticipated limited edition watches produced for the event. The outline of the Singapore 2019 collection is simple: four relatively accessible watches, two grand complications, and a variety of unique Rare Handcrafts clocks, pocket- and wristwatches. All of the limited edition watches bear “Patek Philippe Singapore 2019” on the case back, printed if the back is sapphire, and engraved if the back is solid. The first is the Aquanaut Singapore 2019 ref. 5167A-012 in steel, a variation of the standard model. It has a dial with the minute track and seconds hand in red, matched with a red strap. This is limited to 500 pieces, and priced at 22,400 Swiss francs, or 33,500 Singapore dollars. (Full details on the Aquanaut here.) It’s accompanied by the Aquanaut Luce Singapore 2019 ref. 5067A-027 in steel for ladies that has a red dial and strap, also a variation of the standard model. Only 300 will be made, with a retail of 19,900 Swiss francs, or 29,800 Singapore dollars. Also for ladies is the Calatrava Pilot Travel Ti...
SJX Watches
A master case maker who retired in 2017, Jean-Pierre Hagmann is back in action, as a partner in Akrivia’s case-making workshop in Geneva. Now 78 years old, Mr Hagmann struck out on his own in 1984, starting a stellar career that would see him become a case maker for most of Switzerland’s best watchmakers. (For a detailed profile of Mr Hagmann, see my 2016 story.) His client list included establishment names like Audemars Piguet, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin, and of course, Patek Philippe, where he produced highly-regarded cases for its minute repeaters. In fact, Mr Hagmann was also responsible for the impressively complex case of the Star Calibre 2000, the uber-pocket watch Patek Philippe introduced to mark the new millennium. Mr Hagmann at work in the 1980s The Patek Philippe ref. 5029 minute repeater, which had a Hagmann case In the first half of his career, Mr Hagmann also worked with many of the up-and-coming stars of independent watchmaking of the 1980s and 1990s, including Franck Muller and Roger Dubuis. He produced the very first Cintree Curvex cases for Franck Muller, as well as the early cases for Roger Dubuis. Another of Mr Hagmann’s cases: the Franck Muller Cintree Curvex minute repeater with perpetual calendar, circa 1991 Three decades later, Mr Hagmann is back where he began. He’s joined forces with a rising star of independent watchmaking, Akrivia, whose founder, Rexhep Rexhepi, is just 32 years old. Though young, Rexhep grasps the impo...
Time+Tide
We’ve been having a bit of a lunar week with Longines this week - checking out their new Master Moonphase in the boutique and in our studio. And we thought we’d stick with the theme this Friday. Today we’re taking a closer look at the stylish, chic and generally handsome Longines 1832 Moonphase. If the Master … ContinuedThe post The old-world charms of the Longines 1832 Moonphase appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Monta's latest GMT is a handsome and reserved take on a versatile travel-ready watch.
Hodinkee
A classic Omega owned by the master of hard sci-fi who brought us Jurassic Park.
WatchAdvice
The 21st of July 1969 at 02:56:15 GMT marks a momentous step in world history, as this was when the Astronaut Neil Armstrong stepped off the Apollo 11 Lunar Module “Eagle” to become the first human to stand on another planet. Astronaut Buzz Aldrin accompanied Neil Armstrong in achieving this incredible feat when he also joined his compatriot on the lunar surface. Buzz Aldrin who has been an Omega ambassador since 2009, wore the Omega Speedmaster Professional on the Apollo 11 space mission, which is when it became the first watch to be worn on the moon. The Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary limited edition not only celebrates the historic occasion of celebrating the 50 years since the first Speedmaster on the moon, but is also the first watch in history to use Omega’s new patent-pending alloy; 18k Moonshine Gold. This pioneering new Gold alloy offers a lighter tone than a normal yellow Gold alloy would, while also having a much higher resistance to colour fading. This 18k Moonshine Gold alloy has been used on the dial and the casing which helps accentuate the colour from the darker tones used throughout these parts. The bezel along with the Omega logo, diamond polished indexes and the highlighted 11 on the 11-hour mark are all done in the 18k Moonshine Gold alloy. Omega has cleverly made the 11 o’clock hour marker in Arabic Numeral instead of the beveled indexes as a tribute to the Apollo 11 Lunar module “Eagle”. The hour and minute hands are designed...
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: This year, the Bulgari watch department celebrated its fifth year in a row of record-breaking watches with the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic. While some in the watch industry are still coming to terms with the horological success of a brand with roots in jewellery, Bulgari have actually been making watches since 1975. … ContinuedThe post The legend of the first Bulgari Roma watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Trust Breguet to take the comparatively uncomplicated act of adding a second time zone into something extra. Rather than your typical GMT hand scenario, the Breguet Classique Hora Mundi ref. 5717 demonstrates a very cool, very technical twist on the complication. Read on for Sandra’s review … The remarkable Hora Mundi ref. 5717 … ContinuedThe post Dual time done right, the Breguet Classique Hora Mundi ref. 5717 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: There’s word on the street that Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 2019 collection is in town. And that word is from us, because we’re throwing a party to celebrate the fact, tonight. If you’re a fan of enamel or the Master Ultra Thin collection, you should be all over these watches. Watch below and you’ll see why … ContinuedThe post 5 of the hottest Jaeger-LeCoultre watches of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
The new G-Steel and Master series of watches by Casio are constructed with a Carbon Core Guard Structure. We break it down layer by layer.
Time+Tide
It’s quite possible that when Steve Jobs said, ‘Here’s to the crazy ones’, that master watchmaker Franck Muller was listening. And that he was inspired. Because when Franck Muller does watches well, the brand does them in a certain crazy, poetic and preposterous way. Take my absolute favourite (perhaps until a new contender, the 2019 … ContinuedThe post Our 5 favourite Franck Muller watches from the new 2019 collection, with a focus on the crazy ones appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
The Panerai Luminor Tourbillon GMT a.k.a the Lo Scienzato adds some new technology to the watch.
Deployant
We start with the Aquaterra GMT World Timer. 43mmSS case with a blue rubber strap. The dial features a cartouche of the Earth looking down from the North Pole which is laser engraved on a Ti plate to create the blue ocean leaving a relief of the continents. The contrasting colors of the surface isRead More
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: There’s no denying that dual time, or GMT watches are useful. They’re also a bit of a pain if you want to change time zones on the fly. Well, the ingenious Oris Big Crown ProPilot Worldtimer takes that minor irritation out of the equation, and how! The story in a second It’s all … ContinuedThe post One of the coolest dual times we’ve seen in ages – the Oris Big Crown ProPilot Worldtimer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
In the underwater realm of dive watches, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms is an undisputed master. Initially released in 1953, this prototypical dive watch was instrumental in reframing the rules of the game, and defining the modern dive watch. It’s to be expected then that the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms has been an enduring feature of our … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms in titanium appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New Prospex LIne, with 3 sporting adventure. One for Land, one for Sky and one for Sea. Two models for each, one in Ti and Ti with black super hard coating. Making 6 watches in this line, all 44.8mm. All on Spring Drive movements. Starting with the Land runs on the 5R66 with GMT andRead More
Time+Tide
Over at Bulgari, the reign of the Octo Finissimo continues to flourish. At Baselworld 2019 the ultra-thin heavyweight collection gained two strong new members. And over on the women’s side, there’s a new golden serpent to adore. The hero of Bulgari’s set piece is the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT, a very smart addition (in both … ContinuedThe post LIST: 3 of the best Bulgari watches from Basel 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Bulgari breaks the thinnest records again. Fifth World Record. 2014: tourbillon. 2016: Minute Repeater. 2017: Automatc Micro Rotor. 2918: Tourbillon Automatic. And this year the GMT Chronograph. This year two incredible pieces: First the Finnissimo Chronograph GMT in sandblasted titanium case. Ultra thin Chrono movement of only 3.3mm. Case 6.9mm in an slightly larger 42mmRead More
Deployant
Greubel Forsey’s tour de force this year is a combination of their ultra complicated Quadruple Tourbillon with the popular GMT. We ran the press release yesterday, with all the details. Seeing the piece on my wrist is amazing. Beautiful 3D design and magnificent finishing. And also managed to get reacquainted with the Contemporain Balancier fromRead More
Revolution
Omega commemorates 50 years of the Moon landing by releasing a very special Speedmaster that’s reminiscent of the 1969 Tribute to Apollo XI timepiece. This new edition is presented in their own 18k Moonshine gold, with a new Master Chronometer in-house Caliber 3861. Revolution founder Wei Koh speaks exclusively with Omega CEO Raynald Aeschlimann on this important timepiece.
Time+Tide
Even though many look to Rolex as a steadfast, unchanging bastion of the watch world, there are some definite outliers in the field. Bejewelled GMT-Masters, leopard Daytonas (which have now given way to unobtainium rainbow Daytona). These models are so uncommon and special that they do not really skew the public’s view of Rolex as a manufacturer … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Rolex Milgauss Z-Blue – the rebel Rolex appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The talk of the Jaeger-LeCoultre booth at SIHH was the incredible (and incredibly well-sized) Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel, but that rare bird was in hot demand, so we didn’t manage any quality one-on-one time with it. But that’s OK really, as there were numerous other exquisitely finished offerings on hand, from the Reverso … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: 5 stunning Jaeger-LeCoultre watches from SIHH 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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