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Results for Sword Hands

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Sword Hands

Flat triangular blade hands without a central ridge. Cartier Tank, Santos, IWC Mark XI / Mark XX classical-dress and military signature.
Hands-On: the Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton Worn & Wound
Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton Feb 13, 2025

Hands-On: the Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton

There’s no sports watch that I have a stronger connection to than the Zenith Defy. I’ve long told anyone who would listen that the Defy is, bar none, my favorite sports watch collection. From its inception, the Defy has been a watch associated with pushing both design and watchmaking boundaries, through the use of uncommon materials, avant-garde designs, and over-the-top specs. For whatever sports watch from a major Swiss brand you can name, I could probably think of a Defy that matches it in terms of what it can do, and eclipses it in terms of the always hard to quantify cool factor. Yes, of course this is subjective. But, I mean, is it really?  Now that we’ve established that I love the Defy potentially all out of proportion, we can consider the latest entry in the growing collection, the Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton. This is a combination of words that were always meant to meet in the form of a Defy – the writing has been on the wall since the intro of the first Defy Skyline, or least since the introduction of the Skyline Chronograph. One of the nice things about the Defy, as a collection, is that it truly offers a different flavor of the core watch for every taste, with dials that are skeletonized, or not, cases that are made from steel, or ceramic, and now chronographs offering some of those same decision points.  My feelings on the Defy Skyline collection oscillate quite a bit. Whenever I put one on, I can’t help but compare it in my mind to the Defy...

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Hands-On: the TUUL Filthy 13 Worn & Wound
Hamilton Khaki Field Bulova A-11 Feb 10, 2025

Hands-On: the TUUL Filthy 13

It’s hard to deny the outward appeal of a field watch. Tactical but not overly macho, mature but not boring-the traditional field watch “style” is eminently wearable for combatants, explorers, mountaineers, and the regular old civilian crowd. Classics like the Hamilton Khaki Field, Bulova A-11 “Hack”, Seiko Alpinist, Rolex Explorer, and many, many more, are icons of the category, and it’s hard to feel like there’s much more to be innovated or improved upon.  The TUUL Filthy 13 is keenly aware of the history of the field watch. Its very name is a derivation of the “Dirty Dozen”-both the 1967 war movie about a squad of delinquent soldiers, and the twelve Swiss watchmakers commissioned to build a watch to help win World War II for the Allied forces in 1945. The Filthy 13 is a reference to Private Jake McNiece, the thirteenth member of the real-life military unit, left out of the film based on the squad’s feats-a cheeky signal of the Brooklyn-based company’s dedication to preserving the history and resilience of the field watch, while carving their own convention-breaking niche.  I was given the opportunity to test out the Filthy 13, and was immediately drawn in by the well-laid out history and inspiration behind the watch. My first field watch was a Timex Weekender Indiglo given to me by my grandfather-a watch I still have and wear frequently-and I regularly pine after the Hamilton and Seiko 5 lineups. At first glance, the Filthy 13 is a well...

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Hands-On: the New BOLDR Odyssey Worn & Wound
Boldr Odyssey It isn’t Feb 3, 2025

Hands-On: the New BOLDR Odyssey

It isn’t a hot take to say that tool watches tend to be formulaic. Afterall, there are only so many combinations of bezel formats, dial colors and hand styles out there. With new brands borrowing familiar cues and old brands iterating on their own designs, it’s easy to feel underwhelmed by the steady stream of near-identical releases. Oftentimes, I look at a new watch and wish the brand would do something, anything, to put their own spin on even a single component to stand out from the crowd. Well, BOLDR heard my pleas with the newest iteration of their popular Odyssey diver ($799).  And they didn’t just put their own spin on one component… they spun them all. After I unboxed the sky-blue “Horizon” variant, I spent a solid 10 minutes rolling it around in my hands, taking in all the unexpected details. I noticed the funky gear-shaped crown, the translucent dial that reveals the entire date wheel, the unique dual-stripe hands, a shaped date window, and the seemingly never ending cascading angles that make up the aggressive case shape. Just when I thought I’d taken it all in, I turned the watch over to be surprised by an embossed whale on a display caseback. We will get to all those details (including the whale) soon, but first, let’s cover the basics of this far-from-formulaic GMT. The Watch The bold watch with blue accents that kept surprising me is part of BOLDR’s expanded Odyssey collection. Differentiating itself from their more subdued offerings, the ...

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Hands-on – The new Citizen Mechanical Day/Date NY4058 is a Perfect Example of a Gateway Mechanical Watch Monochrome
Citizen Mechanical Day/Date NY4058 Jan 31, 2025

Hands-on – The new Citizen Mechanical Day/Date NY4058 is a Perfect Example of a Gateway Mechanical Watch

When you read magazines like MONOCHROME, stepping into the (absolutely fascinating) world of mechanical watchmaking can be frightening. Not only can these watches be hard to understand, filled with complications and complex mechanical devices, but the prices at which most luxury watches are offered generate a “glass ceiling” effect that’s hard to break. There is […]

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Hands On: Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan Launched Jan 31, 2025

Hands On: Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan

Launched in late 2023, the Tourbillon Cardan marked Greubel Forsey’s pivot to more classical watchmaking, away from the sports watches that defined it for several years. Staying true to its speciality, the Tourbillon Cardan is a fancy tourbillon: it’s equipped with an inclined, high-speed tourbillon making one revolution every 16 seconds, with the tourbillon suspended in a pair of cardan, also as a universal joint or gimbal, similar to the suspension used in marine chronometers. The set-up swivels the tourbillon back and forth as the carriage makes it 16-second rotation, which theoretically optimises the position of the balance wheel while the watch is on the wrist. Initial thoughts The Tourbillon Cardan is classic Greubel Forsey in many ways, bringing to mind the various exotic tourbillons the brand has released over the years. The watch is big, huge in fact, but stands out with engaging visuals thanks to the multiple motions of the gimballed tourbillon. There’s a lot to see on the open dial, which is not only complex and dynamic but also offers an appealing depth. The depth is a consequence of the thickness of the watch, which is substantial – over 18 mm high with the crystal, necessary to accommodate the tourbillon. Despite the size, the watch is lightweight as the case is titanium, but it still feels chunky but that’s almost expected for a Greubel Forsey. The compact Nano Foudroyante EWT, on the other hand, is atypical of the brand. Though the colours are mon...

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Hands-On: the Astor+Banks Sea Ranger M2 Worn & Wound
Jan 24, 2025

Hands-On: the Astor+Banks Sea Ranger M2

Earlier this month when Kat Shoulders and I were discussing the concept of the “gateway watch” on the Worn & Wound podcast, the Astor+Banks Sea Ranger M2 was sitting just out of reach on my desk. I didn’t mention the newest iteration of the Sea Ranger concept in our discussion, but I very easily could have. This is a rock solid sports watch made by a micro-brand that has proven to be foundational in the space over the years, with just a little bit more than meets the eye when it comes to the finer details. Those details are the kinds of things that make a watch buyer a watch enthusiast, and there’s no doubt about it, Astor+Banks is an enthusiast focused brand. Still, the Sea Ranger M2 strikes me as the type of watch that, if it existed ten years ago, would be an easy recommendation for someone just starting out.  The Sea Ranger M2 is positioned as a do-it-all adventure and tool watch, with a litany of impressive specs: 300 meters of water resistance, soft iron plates shielding the movement from magnetism, a pair of screw down crowns, a quick-adjust clasp (more on that later) and a La Joux-Perret movement with a 68 hour power reserve. These, for the most part, are calling cards of the modern tool watch, a baseline for what a brand has to do in order to claim their watch is a true go-anywhere-do-anything kind of timepiece. The micro-brand space is saturated (perhaps oversaturated) with watches in this genre, so it takes some work to stand out from the crowd. I don...

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[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon Worn & Wound
Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon Following Jan 22, 2025

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon

Following the release of the Longines Ultra-Chron in 2022, a revival of a very specific reference from 1968, Longines adds to the model family with the new Ultra-Chron Carbon. This model comes from a more modern age with a carbon and titanium construction, a monochromatic motif, and the same high-frequency automatic caliber inside. Initially, though, it is hard to tell if this model is meant to be an evolution of the former or an extension of the overall family. While there may still be some similarities to its sibling model, this new version does have its differences, which are important to note.  As the only carbon case piece currently being offered by the brand, it is interesting that Longines decided to introduce it in the oft-overlooked Ultra-Chron collection rather than its more popular offerings like the Spirit Zulu Time or the Conquest. Potentially a byproduct of the simpler case architecture being a bit more friendly to the material, the forged carbon does seem to look right at home molded into the cushion case shape. $4900 [VIDEO] Hands-On: the Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon Case Forged carbon Movement L836 Dial Anthracite Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Sailcloth Water Resistance 300 meters Dimensions 43 x 48.6mm Thickness 14.1mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $4900 Before taking a closer look, my mind immediately began to look back at a release from last year coming from another Swatch Group brand, the Tissot Sideral S, ready to call out similari...

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Just Because – The 10:10 Position of Hands is so Deeply Rooted in Watchmaking that AI can’t Generate Anything Different Monochrome
Jan 13, 2025

Just Because – The 10:10 Position of Hands is so Deeply Rooted in Watchmaking that AI can’t Generate Anything Different

Artificial intelligence, or AI, is on everyone’s lips. It’s a topic that divides and generates strong opinions (pros or cons), and it will, in the future, become increasingly important, whether you like it or not. These tools, at least the tools that we, the public, can use (image or text generators such as ChatGPT), are […]

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Hands-on – Up Close with the High-Beat Lightweight Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon Monochrome
Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon Longines Jan 10, 2025

Hands-on – Up Close with the High-Beat Lightweight Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon

Longines is known to tread carefully in developing new watches, often delving into its hugely impressive archives to find inspiration for tons of fine heritage-related watches. It’s also a brand that doesn’t jump in unexpected directions, resulting in strange and inexplicable choices and subsequent releases. So it’s fair to say this Ultra-Chron Carbon took us by surprise, […]

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Hands-on – Impressions about the Omega Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified Monochrome
Omega Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified Jan 6, 2025

Hands-on – Impressions about the Omega Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified

About a month ago, out of the blue, Omega released a new, rather polarizing and unique-looking version of its emblematic chronograph, the Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified. Well, it wasn’t really out of the blue, but we’ll come back on that in a few. Colourful, tool-oriented and with a dial full of references to the world of […]

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Hands-on – The Captivating Beauty of the De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon Monochrome
De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon Jan 3, 2025

Hands-on – The Captivating Beauty of the De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon

Denis Flageollet, master watchmaker and the “mad genius” behind De Bethune’s creations, is passionate about the “great patrimony of classical watchmaking” and resolved to contribute calibres “worthy of the 21st century” (32 calibres to date). While many associate De Bethune with sleek futuristic vessels, Flageollet’s attention to classical finishings and pursuit of chronometric excellence reflect […]

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