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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

The Wild New Behrens Orion One Worn & Wound
Behrens Orion One Behrens 2012 Jan 15, 2024

The Wild New Behrens Orion One

Behrens 2012 is one of the most exciting young brands working in the ever growing affordable avant-garde space. Based in China, Behrens has developed a cult following as of late, riding primarily on the strength of the impressive “Ultralight,” a futuristic design that is typical of their house aesthetic, weighing in just 20 grams. Given the Ultralight’s impressive specs and unique design, the $7,600 price tag feels almost like a bargain, but a look through the Behrens catalog reveals that they have a number of gems at prices that are truly affordable. Their latest watch, the Orion One Automatic, is a little more approachable in terms of price point, but is perhaps the brand’s most outlandish design yet. It’s yet another example of a watchmaking aesthetic that was previously reserved for six figure timepieces working its way down into the affordable segment.  The case of the Orion One recalls something between a spaceship and what you’d see under the hood of a modern supercar. It’s the kind of thing that barely resembles a watch, at first, but reveals its form and complexity as you observe it. The first thing you notice is likely the array of gears under the sapphire crystal window at the top of the case, where you’d normally find a dial. Here, the only time telling function is a running seconds hand at the center.  Time is read through a “twin roller” time display system at the 6:00 position. It’s fairly intuitive, but in a position that you’re li...

Yema Takes to the Land, Air, and Sea with their New Urban Sport Collection Worn & Wound
Yema Takes Jan 11, 2024

Yema Takes to the Land, Air, and Sea with their New Urban Sport Collection

The concept of “air”, “sea”, “land” watches continues to capture the imagination of enthusiasts. Some even build collections of watches that cover each base. The idea stems from the focused tool watches of yesteryear that were deliberate and intentional in their design languages in order to accomplish very specific goals. Yema leans into this idea in introducing a new trio of watches under their Urban Sport moniker. Within the new line, each watch tackles one component of air, sea, and land, with the Flygraf, Yachtingraf, and Rallygraf, respectively. The Flygraf dominates the air and is the punchiest of all three in color scheme. It is marked with an airplane icon at six o’clock and features a combination of inner and outer multifunction bezels for calculating speed, fuel, and other conversions. It has thicker, more legible hands befitting of a pilot’s watch and a brushed black dial designed to pay homage to vintage airplane fuselages. The second hand in particular is a bright orange that matches the inner bezel for maximum contrast. As a whole, the dial is cleaner and simpler, and the hour markers are slightly rounded. The Yachtingraf is designed for, you guessed it, yachting. With a gradient dial and thinner hands filled with cream lume, it is the most overtly vintage-inspired of the three. The Yachtingraf has, unsurprisingly, a bi-direcitonal graduated bezel with special 15-minute markings to signal regatta race starts. Its second hand is in silver and f...

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Omega Seamaster Ploprof Jan 9, 2024

Missed Review: the Omega Seamaster Ploprof

The Omega Ploprof is one of the most interesting, iconic, and discussed of all dive watches. Its unusual design is unlike any other diver, and the watch itself has a rich and storied history. When it was introduced in 1970, it was originally conceived as a no-compromises tool for saturation divers. Since then, the Ploprof has evolved into a cult item. It’s still used, of course, for technical diving purposes by dive professionals, but in the years since Omega relaunched the watch in 2009, it’s also become a talisman of a very particular type of dive watch nerdery. It’s one of the most “inside baseball” watches Omega makes, and is beloved by enthusiasts for all of the reasons many in the general public would walk right by it.  In this Missed Review, Blake Buettner explores the unique qualities of the Ploprof that make it special. Its unique design elements (the unusual case shape, a prominent crown guard system, the large orange button on the case flank, etc) are all there for very specific reasons rooted in the Ploprof’s extremely specific utility. Blake also gets into the history of the watch, and how this modern version (in titanium) differs from historical versions in unexpected ways. Omega Images from this post: The post Missed Review: the Omega Seamaster Ploprof appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Watches Worth the Wait Worn & Wound
Jan 5, 2024

Watches Worth the Wait

“Good things come to those who wait.” In a culture of instant gratification and overstimulation, these words are a poignant reminder that patience is often well-rewarded. Of course, as enthusiasts and collectors, we know well the excitement of anticipation and the thrill of the hunt. It’s also fun to be the first to enjoy and experience a watch that has yet to reach the rest of the watch-buying public. And who doesn’t love being early in discovering a hot watch? To that end, we’d like to highlight a few watches from the Windup Watch Shop that are currently available for pre-order. Don’t wait too late, however; they may be gone before you know it. Let’s dive in. “Good things come to those who wait.” In a culture of instant gratification and overstimulation, these words are a poignant reminder that patience is often well-rewarded. Of course, as enthusiasts and collectors, we know well the excitement of anticipation and the thrill of the hunt. It’s also fun to be the first to enjoy and experience a watch that has yet to reach the rest of the watch-buying public. And who doesn’t love being early in discovering a hot watch? To that end, we’d like to highlight a few watches from the Windup Watch Shop that are currently available for pre-order. Don’t wait too late, however; they may be gone before you know it. Let’s dive in. The post Watches Worth the Wait appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Hands-On: the Heinrich Helicoprion “Buzzsaw” Worn & Wound
Breitling s stewardship remains Jan 4, 2024

Hands-On: the Heinrich Helicoprion “Buzzsaw”

Last year, Heinrich introduced an eye-catching dial in an all new case. Each of Heinrich’s watches up to this point have been described as vintage inspired with strong 70s vibes.The Helicoprion “Buzzsaw” is no different, with the dial taking fairly direct inspiration from Universal Genève’s Unisonic “Buzzsaw” tuning fork watch from the late 1960s and ‘70s. Whether we will see a reincarnation of this design from Universal Genève under Breitling’s stewardship remains to be seen, but if you are crying out for a funky dial design at an affordable price, this could be the watch for you. The Helicoprion name comes from an extinct genus of shark-like fish, which had a spiral of teeth in its lower jaw – the teeth increasing in size as it spiraled outwards. This creature, along with Heinrich’s latest watch, has also been dubbed the “Buzzsaw” due to the similar circular tooth configuration seen on the blade of a circular saw. While the Universal Genève reference also saw each tooth shifting to a darker or lighter shade as they increased in size, the Heinrich Helicoprion dial markings are presented in a single color as the teeth grow between each hour (or five minute) index. $558 Hands-On: the Heinrich Helicoprion “Buzzsaw” Case Stainless steel Movement Miyota 9015 or Sellita SW200 Dial Various Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Beads of rice bracelet Water Resistance 200 meters Dimensions 40 x 47.8mm Thickness 13.5mm Lug Width 20mm Crown screw down Warranty ...

Hands-on - The Bell & Ross BR 03 Gyrocompass Puts a Flight Instrument on your Wrist Monochrome
Bell & Ross BR 03 Gyrocompass Puts Jan 4, 2024

Hands-on - The Bell & Ross BR 03 Gyrocompass Puts a Flight Instrument on your Wrist

Last year marked an important milestone for Bell & Ross when the brand updated its iconic BR 03 collection after well over fifteen years of loyal service. The brand’s instrument-inspired collection is renowned for its extremely legible (in most cases) and recognizable design ethos based on a square case and a circular dial with a […]

Longines Adds a GMT to the Master Collection, in 18k Gold SJX Watches
Longines Adds Jan 4, 2024

Longines Adds a GMT to the Master Collection, in 18k Gold

With recent releases well received, most notably the 190th Anniversary models and Small Seconds featuring engraved Breguet numerals, Longines’ Master Collection now gains a twin time zone offering with the Master Collection GMT, which is only available in 18k gold, for now. With the case in either yellow or rose gold, the GMT stands apart from its more affordable predecessors. It also diverges in terms of design, with applied Roman numerals instead of Breguet numerals. Initial thoughts The latest addition to the line continues the progressive facelifting of the Master Collection that gives existing models a sophisticated style. Though the range already included a GMT, it was in the older livery with a guilloche dial. The new GMT sticks to the classical aesthetic of the Master Collection, though it’s not quite as successful as the facelift applied to the rest of the line-up. Although elaborately done with applied numerals – which are solid gold to match the case – the dial is a bit old fashioned and feels uninspired. This is particularly obvious when compared to its time-only counterparts with their engraved Breguet numerals. That said, applying Breguet numerals to the GMT is a simple matter, and I would not be surprised to see that in the future. Because of the solid gold case, the Master Collection GMT costs US$14,750, which is well beyond the brand’s traditional price segment and where it does well. Even though this is a Longines with features usually found in ...

Here Are the 28 Best GMT Watches You Can Buy in 2026 Teddy Baldassarre
Arnold & Son Globetrotter Jan 2, 2024

Here Are the 28 Best GMT Watches You Can Buy in 2026

Among all the functions offered by today's timepieces (we in the watch trade call them complications, because even the ones that look relatively simple, like a date in a window, involve a lot of complex micro-mechanics), the GMT or second time zone is one of the most practical and useful - especially as many of us are back in the habit, post-COVID, of spending time again in time zones other than our own - for business, pleasure, or some combo of both. Here we've gathered 28 of the best GMT watches on the market now for your perusal and your consideration if you're in the market for a ticking companion for your next trip. To narrow the list and keep it manageable, we are keeping it as much as possible to "pure" GMT watches, i.e., those with a GMT hand pointing at a scale rather than some other unconventional display, which unfortunately excludes models like the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone, Parmigiani Tonda Hemispheres, Arnold & Son Globetrotter, and any number of very creative high-end takes on a dual-timer. We've also left out world-time watches, GMT watches' more complex cousins that display all the world's time zones simultaneously (you can check out our list of world timers here) and multiple-complication watches in which the GMT function is paired with a chronograph, perpetual calendar, or other high complications (small complications like dates are OK). Finally, we included only watches with mechanical movements, which are more likely to appeal to a wo...

Nomos evoke a warm autumn with the new Club Sport Neomatik 39 Tabac, Ember and Smoke Time+Tide
Nomos evoke Dec 27, 2023

Nomos evoke a warm autumn with the new Club Sport Neomatik 39 Tabac, Ember and Smoke

When thinking of Nomos, the first thing that comes to mind is clean, studied designs that follow the Bauhaus method. At times, these break free of their block colour schemes and get a lick of, say, vibrant pink, but rarely would I describe Nomos’ design choices as sultry. The three new Club Sport Neomatik 39 … ContinuedThe post Nomos evoke a warm autumn with the new Club Sport Neomatik 39 Tabac, Ember and Smoke appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Sweden’s E.C. Andersson Debuts the Bold (and Very Thin) Mytilus Worn & Wound
Dec 26, 2023

Sweden’s E.C. Andersson Debuts the Bold (and Very Thin) Mytilus

We’ve featured E.C. Andersson, a small watch brand out of Sweden, in our Micro-Brand Digest a few times now. Their latest, however, definitely warrants a longer look. The Mytilus is easily their most ambitious design to date, and serves as an extension of what’s come before as well as a bit of a bolder statement. Described by the brand as “retrofuturistic” in its style, it’s been conceived as a distinctive watch that’s also ultra lightweight and thin. It’s part of a larger crop of new designs that we’re incredibly excited about that offer a real taste of the avant-garde at an approachable price point. While the design and manufacturing of the Mytilus is surely quite complex in practice, the concept is fairly straightforward and easy to understand. The “case” is a milled block of solid aluminum and this central component is just 4.1mm thick. The sapphire crystal has a deep box design and pulls double duty as a bezel that holds the unit together. The brand says the crystal is attached to the case directly via six screws, and that total of twenty-one gaskets are used on the Mytilus to ensure water resistance (it’s rated to 60 meters, which is pretty good for such a thin mechanical watch). With the crystal attached, the total thickness of the Mytilus comes in at 9.5mm (the case is 38mm wide). This is a time only watch with a simple, sandwich style dial with lume seen from a lower layer at the cardinal positions. Like the case and caseback, the dial is als...

The Petrolhead Corner - The Incredible Work of Everrati and their Electrified Mercedes-Benz 280SL Pagoda Monochrome
Dec 23, 2023

The Petrolhead Corner - The Incredible Work of Everrati and their Electrified Mercedes-Benz 280SL Pagoda

The small but very interesting industry for high-end restored and bespoke vehicles doesn’t seem to be slowing down. We’re regularly treated to new and exciting projects where a small but extremely skilful workshop or engineering firm aims to build an enhanced version of a prolific vintage car. Often referred to as a restomod, a combination […]

Opinion: Giving the Gift of Watches Worn & Wound
Dec 22, 2023

Opinion: Giving the Gift of Watches

Deck the halls with straps and spring bars! Well… maybe. ‘Tis the season for giving and you may be wondering if you should gift a special someone their first timepiece. It just so happens that gifted watches can be surprisingly controversial. It doesn’t seem that a token of affection for someone in your life, especially around the holidays, would be complicated. Yet, type “watches as gifts” in your favorite search engine, and you’re sure to see long lists of debates on this topic. The rationale ranges from cultural superstition to practical concerns about preferred tastes and styles. It’s certainly worth considering your position on these perspectives before parting with one of your own watches or diving into a purchase on behalf of a loved one. However, I’m here to provide some personal insight into this conversation and perhaps convince you to take a chance on the prospective horologist in your life this season. My collecting journey began just over two years ago when I received a hand-me-down watch from a friend. I was, then, a graduate student unaware of the watchbox-free counter space I was taking for granted. I hadn’t critically considered watches before, but knew I was drawn to material “stuff.” My apartment was filled with hundreds of books I’d accumulated over the years along with MOLLE-paneled backpacks, knives, sports equipment, and various trinkets I had used (or might one day use) in my adventures. I gravitated toward things I knew were...

Seiko Expands their GMT Offerings to the Seiko 5 Sports Field Collection Worn & Wound
Rolex Explorer II which naturally Dec 21, 2023

Seiko Expands their GMT Offerings to the Seiko 5 Sports Field Collection

Seiko has recently expanded their Seiko 5 Sports Field series to include two new references, each with a GMT function. A first for this line of watches following the popular series that included rotating 24 hour bezels last year, the GMT function allows for a secondary timezone to be easily read in a tidy field watch format. Whether choosing the silver SSK023 or the more rugged black SSK025, each balances functionality against a backdrop of timeless design. As for the specifications of this watch, the Seiko 5 Sports Field series is a robust and reliable timepiece designed for everyday wear. Equipped with a 4R34 automatic movement, it offers a power reserve of approximately 41 hours and is equipped with 24 jewels. The watch incorporates practical functions such as a 24-hour hand for dual time display and a stop second hand function. Functionality is identical to the earlier Seiko 5 Sports GMT release, which means an independently adjustable 24-hour hand and “caller” GMT functionality.  Its stainless steel case, measuring 39.4mm in diameter and 13.6mm in thickness, includes a curved Hardlex crystal and showcases Lumibrite on both hands and indexes for enhanced visibility. The watch has a water resistance of 10 bar and magnetic resistance of 4,800 A/m, making it suitable for various environments that really lives up to its field watch bona fides. Importantly, these watches feature a fixed 24-hour bezel in the style of a Rolex Explorer II, which naturally gives these watc...

The Kollokium Projekt 01 Broadens Creative Horizons SJX Watches
Dec 14, 2023

The Kollokium Projekt 01 Broadens Creative Horizons

Positioned as a creative endeavour rather than a traditional brand, Kollokium debuts with a departure from conventional watchmaking norms, the Projekt 01. Born from the aesthetic sensibilities of its founders, Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi, Kollokium is about unconventional design and raw, unpolished aesthetics. Kollokium is a project-based offering, with each “projekt” iterated into variants but produced in limited numbers. Projekt 01 begins as a “Friends & Family” edition only for insiders, but a publicly available version will soon be launched in early 2024. Initial thoughts The Projekt 01 blends avant-garde design with innovative manufacturing processes, and an affordable price tag. And it also doesn’t take itself too seriously, as evidenced by the case back – something that collectors tired of self-important brands will appreciate. The cast steel case delivers an industrial and robust aesthetic, setting it apart from watches in this price segment. On top is a highly-domed “box” sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating that enhances the visual experience. But most intriguing is the three-dimensional pixellated dial made up of with 468 hand-applied cylindrical markers tipped with Super-LumiNova, a surprising degree of craftsmanship given its price. Kollokium’s philosophy is also reflected in the decision to identify the La Joux-Perret G101 movement. Like many watch start-ups, Kollokium is committed to transparency, while being mor...

The Affordable Seiko 5 “Field” Gains a GMT Function SJX Watches
Grand Seiko or Tudor Although setting Dec 13, 2023

The Affordable Seiko 5 “Field” Gains a GMT Function

Seiko has expanded its range of (very) reasonably priced sports watches with the Seiko 5 Sports Field Sports Style GMT. Available in stainless steel (SSK023) or black-coated steel (SSK025), it retains the military-inspired aesthetics of its time-only counterparts, while incorporating an additional hour hand showing a second time zone. Initial thoughts  The new models evoke a sense of familiarity with the “field” style dial and 24-hour markers, a longstanding design that’s been part of the Seiko 5 line-up for decades. But now the dial adopts a modern, utilitarian style, departing from the vintage-inspired aesthetic found in the time-only “field” models such as the SRPG35 and SRPJ85. And purists will appreciate the absence day-of-the-week display, with the dial having just the date. The black-on-black SSK025 achieves an almost ideal look for this type of watch. The near-monochromatic aesthetic creates an extremely satisfying contrast with the orange accents that brings to mind a fighter jet cockpit. The SSK025 Beyond the cosmetic changes, the new models are typical of Seiko’s entry-level GMT models. They are more accurately described as dual time zone watches with an independently adjustable 24-hour hand, rather than true GMT watches that feature an adjustable local-time hour hand, as seen in pricier watches from Grand Seiko or Tudor. Although setting the time for a second time zone involves a few additional steps, this represents an acceptable compromise consid...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Enamel “Dragon” SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Dec 11, 2023

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Enamel “Dragon”

In keeping with its tradition of special editions for the Chinese Lunar New Year, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduces the Reverso Tribute Enamel “Dragon” to celebrate the Year of the Wood Dragon that begins in early 2024. A limited edition that’s made-to-order, the Reverso “Dragon” maintains the timeless, double-sided design, but with a black grand feu enamel dial and a hand-engraved case back portraying a Chinese dragon. Initial thoughts Commemorative Lunar New Year editions are not new for Jaeger-LeCoultre, as the brand produced an equivalent edition last year. However, the formal works: combining enamel and engraving results in a more elaborate design compared to the typical Reverso while still retaining the elegance and character of the model. The watch showcases a captivating motif on its back. On closer inspection, intricate details come to the fore, with the dragon depicted in low relief against a fired enamel background. Although almost monochromatic, it is undeniably vivid. Just like last year’s Tiger edition, the Reverso “Dragon” is made-to-order and is priced at US$107,000 before taxes. It comes in slightly higher than the previous Reverso models featuring similar artwork. It is expensive for what it is, despite the evident artistry of the decoration, particularly since Jaeger-LeCoultre is historically a brand associated with more affordable watches. A lavish depiction of a Chinese dragon The Reverso “Dragon” depicts a dragon in the clouds against a ...

REVIEW: Hands On With The Baume & Mercier Riviera GMT Travel Time WatchAdvice
Audemars Piguet making Dec 7, 2023

REVIEW: Hands On With The Baume & Mercier Riviera GMT Travel Time

We’ve gone hands on with the new Riviera GMT launched at the start of the year, and we must say that it’s been a bit of a surprise package! What We Love Wave motif silver dialQuick change strap systemComfortable bracelet What We Don’t No secondary strap to utilise the quick change systemNo GMT bezel, limiting true GMT functionalityLack of a screw-down crown Overall Rating: 8/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 8/10Design: 7.5/10Build quality: 8.5/10 Baume & Mercier has had its ups and downs over the years, and more recently, I feel they’ve been relegated to the bottom of the Richemont stable of brands. However, this year, with the 50th Anniversary of the Riviera, Baume & Mercier have breathed some new life into their steel sports diver and designed it for a new wave of watch lovers. For those not very familiar with Baume & Mercier, first a very quick history lesson… The new Baume & Mercier Riviera GMT Travel Time Launched in 1973, the Riviera immediately made a splash with its dodecagonal case and its slimline metal strap. At this time, very few brands had really ventured into the luxury integrated steel bracelet models, with maybe the exception of Rolex and Audemars Piguet, making the Baume & Mercier Riviera one of the first brands to do this. Interestingly, the original design was done by Jean-Claude Gueit, the father of Emmanuel Gueit who designed the Royal Oak Offshore, so the Riviera has some design provenance and links back to that era as well. The Riviera...

Introducing - The Greubel Forsey Balancier 3, The Brand’s New Entry-Level Watch Monochrome
Greubel Forsey Balancier 3 Dec 7, 2023

Introducing - The Greubel Forsey Balancier 3, The Brand’s New Entry-Level Watch

Greubel Forsey consistently defies convention, ensuring that each of the brand’s timepieces is nothing short of intriguing. In 2019, Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey ventured into the sports watch category with the GMT Sport – a distinctive creation that integrated a world-time indication with an inclined tourbillon, but mostly an entirely new convex case design. […]

Introducing - By Popular Demand, The Smaller Formex “Baby Reef” 39.5mm Automatic COSC 300M Monochrome
Formex Baby Reef” 39.5mm Automatic Dec 7, 2023

Introducing - By Popular Demand, The Smaller Formex “Baby Reef” 39.5mm Automatic COSC 300M

When released in 2020, the 42mm Formex Reef Automatic Chronometer 300M impressed enthusiasts, demonstrating a fusion of innovation and design sophistication in a highly functional tool watch. Fresh and unique, the watch offered a compelling array of features and extensive customization options. Today, just like it did with the Essence collection a few years ago, […]

Interview - Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani on the Bulgari x Gran Turismo Partnership, And Designing Both a Watch and a Hypercar Monochrome
Bulgari x Gran Turismo Partnership Dec 6, 2023

Interview - Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani on the Bulgari x Gran Turismo Partnership, And Designing Both a Watch and a Hypercar

As the Product Creation Executive Director at Bulgari Horlogerie, Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani is renowned for his keen focus on design. While our discussions with him at MONOCHROME typically revolve around watches, this exceptionally versatile designer harbours various talents. The announcement of Bulgari’s collaboration with cult video game Gran Turismo provided the opportunity to unveil not […]

Introducing - The Sarpaneva Midnight Sun, Revealing Itself at Night Monochrome
Sarpaneva Dec 5, 2023

Introducing - The Sarpaneva Midnight Sun, Revealing Itself at Night

The most Scandinavian of independent watchmakers, Stepan Sarpaneva, is in a category all his own … His complex and ultra-detailed watches have always been deeply personal and unique; some even featured his face on the so-called Sarpaneva Moonface. While remaining faithful to the original design cues of Sarpaneva, his recent pieces reveal his desire to reconnect […]

Up Close: Citizen Caliber 0210 “The Citizen” SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Dec 5, 2023

Up Close: Citizen Caliber 0210 “The Citizen”

Citizen launched its flagship mechanical watch, the Caliber 0200, two years ago. Despite being better known for high-end quartz watches – including the most accurate ever – the  Japanese watchmaker managed an impressively executed three-handed sports watch, with an equally outstanding new movement. Now the model finally receives a mechanical upgrade with the Caliber 0210, which incorporates a date along with subtle improvements to the external design, while retaining the excellent case and bracelet that define the model. Initial thoughts The Caliber 0210 indicates the brand’s interest in further developing this excellent model – encouraging for fans of the model like myself. Despite the Caliber 0210 looking much like its predecessor, it is actually a substantially different watch in tangible terms. Ordinarily the addition of a date would be a no-no for a purist enthusiast, but here the date is integrated well in terms of dial proportions and (re)design. The appealing attributes of the Caliber 0200, and now the Caliber 0210, clearly mark the two out as watches conceived for a niche audience, namely enthusiasts who appreciate quality – and are able to distinguish this from the competition (Grand Seiko to state the obvious). However, this target audience often prefers the purity of a three-hand watch without a date. At the same time, this audience comprehends the substantive upgrades in the Caliber 0210 beyond the date – amongst them the improved case constructi...