Hodinkee
Hands-On: The New TAG Heuer Plasma Tourbillon And Plasma Diamant D’Avant Garde
TAG Heuer is shaking up the established order of things with its radical use of lab-grown diamonds.
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Hodinkee
Watch Spotting: Danièla Dufour And Her Personally Hand-Made Simplicity
One of the rarest and most coveted watches in the world, but unique to – and by – her.
Hodinkee
Editors' Picks: Our Nine Favorites From Watches & Wonders 2023
We saw a ton of watches, here are the nine that stood out from pack.
Worn & Wound
IWC’s Pilot’s Chronograph 41 Finally Gets a Ceramic Case
In the midst of what can only be described as Ingenieur Mania at Watches & Wonders a few weeks ago, IWC quietly unveiled a pair of watches in their Pilot collection that would have certainly been the headline grabbing highlights in almost any other year. It’s interesting in terms of strategy (they clearly wanted to focus heavily on the new Ingenieur, a watch that has been long requested by collectors and clearly represents years of fine tuning) and because, well, the new Pilot’s Chronographs on display were kind of awesome, and show that even in an off year, IWC is completely committed to maintaining their King of the Pilot Watch status. What we have here are two 41mm Pilot’s Chronographs in ceramic, which represents the first time the brand has gone ceramic in this particular size. You’ll recall that last year the marquee releases were two colored ceramic Pilot’s Chronos (in “Tahoe” white and “Woodland” green), but both were in a somewhat unwieldy 44.5mm case. The 41mm size was introduced in steel in 2021, a welcome downsize from the 43mm case IWC had been using immediately prior, and has since seen versions in titanium and Ceratanium. IWC has demonstrated a fondness for variety when it comes to materials, so it was only a matter of time before the smaller pilot chrono got the ceramic treatment. First up, the Pilot’s Chronograph in “Oceana,” a shade of blue developed with Pantone, and inspired by the color of overalls worn by members of the Uni...
Worn & Wound
Checking out the Sinn T50s in Geneva
The Sinn U50 is one of those watches that watch enthusiasts collectively knew would be a huge hit when it launched in 2020. Though essentially a shrunken-down U1 (with half the water resistance), it was Sinn doing what they do best. Humbly making incredibly rugged, high-spec, modern tool-watches, and making it seem easy. Thin at 11.3mm, well-sized at 41mm x 47mm for a modern, but not oversized fit, and built to withstand 500 bar of pressure, it demonstrated that good engineering prevails over scale. The only problem has been a lack of new versions since launch. There was a blackout LE with a dark MOP dial, which was cool, if not for everyone (Sinn’s head of marketing, Sabine Kleiter wears this watch, and it always looks striking). And then the U50 Pro, which was a date-free remix, with the crown up at 10. Another great-looking version, it was sadly limited to 150 pieces and to the North American market. Both are great, but neither a true addition to the line. And then, in 2023, we got what we wanted. Well, sort of. Rather than building on the U50, Sinn launched a sibling watch called the T50. At a glance, they seemed a lot alike, but there are quite a few differences as well making them a slightly different beast. If I were to liken it to something, it would be the higher-priced sport trim of the same base model car. They have the same dimensions and general design, particularly regarding the case, but are made out of hardened titanium, gold bronze (a patent-pending allo...
WatchAdvice
Tissot Chemin des Tourelles Hands on Review
Early March – Tissot released its new look line up of a revived model line, the Chemin des Tourelles, named after the location of the brands first headquarters in Le Locle. I had the pleasure of going hands on with several of its key pieces, and in particular the 39 mm version, with sunburst blue dial and brown leather strap. What we like Beautifully finished deep blue sunburst dialCase wears comfortably on the wristSmart, classic design What we don’t like Crystal reflects the light a lot, detracting from the dialClasp isn’t as sturdy as you would expectMovement could be finished better with the see-through case back Overall rating: 7.125/10 Value for money: 7/10 Wearability: 7/10 Design: 8/10 Build quality: 6.5/10 Now I should start out by stating that this watch retails for AUD $1,175, which by many people’s standard in the crazy world of watches we live in, could be considered quite cheap. However, this is a great entry level price point for a Swiss watch, and as such, I’m reviewing it with this in mind, and to be honest, I’ve worn plenty of watched that are 3x or more in price that are probably on par if not a little less appealing or well built! So, here we go… Tissot holds a fond place in my heart. It was the first ever Swiss watch I bought. I had my first ever job in Sydney, and even though I wasn’t earning much, being a junior sales co-ordinator at a major radio network, I wanted to reward myself. So one lunch time I went to one of the local watch d...
Worn & Wound
Oris Adds Some Bling to the Aquis: Hands-On with the New Aquis Date Diamonds
At this point, I think we all have a fairly solid understanding of the appeal of a gold watch. The heft, the rarity, and the luster of gold all appeal to our reptile brains in ways that are almost innate. Zach Weiss broke it down here back in 2021, and in the nearly two years since that article was conceived, we’ve only grown more gold-curious as a team. But as much as we talk about a growing appreciation for gold, there’s another tangentially related segment of watchmaking that doesn’t get nearly the same level of attention, at least from enthusiasts. But a new watch from Oris made me rethink my relationship to these watches. No, I’m not talking about watches with Muppet-clad date displays. I’m talking about diamonds, an entirely different level of opulence. In a modern context, watches that have been set with diamonds most frequently fall into one of two categories: watches marketed exclusively toward women, or the completely iced out custom jobs that you sometimes see on red carpets, music videos, and in New York City’s diamond district. With the new Aquis Date Diamonds, Oris is asking us to rethink the stone by incorporating them into a watch that’s truly sporty, and also by making them accessible. Oris goes about this by using lab-grown, as opposed to mined, diamonds. Lab-grown diamonds have increased in popularity in recent years as manufacturing techniques have gotten better and better, delivering stones that are identical optically and chemically ...
Time+Tide
The Czapek Antarctique Révélation opens its heart to watch aficionados
Czapek has expanded their best-selling integrated Antarctique line with the stunning open-worked Révélation The new in-house SXH7 auto-winding movement is an evolution of their SXH5, completely reworked for maximum visual impact on both sides The Révélation is also the first non-chrono Antarctique with a skeletonised dial Open-worked dials can be one of the most thrilling … ContinuedThe post The Czapek Antarctique Révélation opens its heart to watch aficionados appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Chanel Introduces the Lion Astroclock
Titled Chanel Interstellar, the 2023 watch collection debuted by Chanel was inspired by “science fiction, space and time travel”. The line-up naturally included exotic variations on the J12, but the most impressive timekeeper wasn’t a wristwatch but a desk clock, the Lion Astroclock. Anchored by a lion, the Astroclock is typical Chanel in style. Almost entirely matte black, it has discreet touches of extravagance in the form of brilliant-cut diamonds on the hands, which form the unusual, planetarium-style time display. The lion is a reference to Leo, Coco Chanel’s zodiac sign Initial thoughts Monochromatic, sculptural timekeepers with the occasion gemstone setting, Chanel’s top-of-the-line clocks possess an easy, intrinsic appeal. The Astroclock is no different. At a distance, it probably won’t look particularly interesting on a desk, but up close the refined execution is visible. All the details within the glass sphere – the three-dimensional time display, polished surfaces, and brilliant-cut diamonds – need to be admired up close. With its US$350,000-ish price tag, the Astroclock is probably more expensive than it should be considering the relatively simple L’Epee movement, but it is impressive. Symbolism Clean and entirely in matte black, the Lion Astroclock echoes the styling of the Chronosphere clock of 2018, but with added astronomical elements that reference Coco Chanel. Standing about 35 cm high, the Lion Astroclock is comprised of a base enclosin...
Worn & Wound
Zodiac Unveils their Most Colorful Super Sea Wolf Yet
Over the last few years, the Zodiac Super Sea Wolf has generated a head of steam in the collector community, becoming an unlikely talking point among enthusiasts as new iterations have been released at a fast clip. These watches have a common thread in that they all pay a certain amount of respect to classic vintage designs, but Zodiac has been extremely willing to play with color, and that’s been a large part of their success with this line in the recent past. Across both limited editions and releases in the permanent collection, Zodiac has proven that they aren’t afraid to experiment, and that exclusively creating sober dive watches without much of a personality is of little interest to them. This new release, then, feels like the culmination of what we’ve seen in Zodiac’s recent strategy, with what might be their most colorful watch yet, which ironically doesn’t even have a traditional dial. The new Super Sea Wolf Compression Skeleton prominently features the STP 6-15 automatic movement, plainly visible from the dial side. This is the first time we can recall Zodiac using a skeleton design in a modern context, and certainly within their dive watch line, so it speaks to their confidence in and pride in the STP caliber that they’d be willing to show it off in such a way. STP, of course, is Fossil owned movement manufacture that is a sister brand to Zodiac, and has played a large role in outfitting their recent releases with high quality, competitively priced...
Worn & Wound
A Closer Look at the Ressence Type 8S and Type 1 Round (w/ Video)
It’s hard for a brand to stand out in the halls of Watches and Wonders. After all, the place is literally filled with some of the newest and finest horological creations. Yet Ressence manages to, even if they maintain a relatively low profile overall. Their booth isn’t elaborate, nor is there loud music or flashy lights to draw you in. Instead, their evenly lit room invites you in with a seat at a bar that doesn’t serve drinks, but rather a unique vision of watchmaking. And, naturally, it’s the watches themselves that make the booth stand out. While certainly in the realm of the high-end, their watches aren’t ornate or fussy. They aren’t traditional. There are no tourbillons or minute repeaters to ooh and awe at, nor gold or platinum to catch your eye with a glint. Instead, they are a reprieve from such things. Their watches look like precision technology from a future utopian world. And, well, that’s half true. Meeting with Ressence is a combination of seeing novelties and talking about manufacturing. A color change and how that affects tolerances. Years of R&D; to make already incredibly fine gaps between the moving components even finer. The word “micron” gets used with some frequency. They are a brand about precision technology, cleverly executed for a seemingly effortless result. This year, the focus was on two novelties: the Type 8S, and the Type 1 Round. The former was a new version of last year’s big announcement presented in a soothing sage gree...
Deployant
Review: the new A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph
The Lange Odysseus luxury sports watch collection gets a complication. Here is our detailed review of the new A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph.
Time+Tide
The most hypnotising telemeter dials you can buy now
Although the 2020s is a young decade so far, we’ve already been treated to a wealth of dial enrichment from textures, colours, and even shapes from plenty of big-name brands who traditionally don’t take risks. While that demonstrates a growing trend towards watch enthusiasts enjoying more characterful watches, that doesn’t mean that it’s anything new. … ContinuedThe post The most hypnotising telemeter dials you can buy now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: Fleux Watches revives the 1960s with two vintage-throwback divers for less than $500 each
There’s no shortage of vintage-inspired divers in the independent and microbrand market. While many brands have got this formula wrong and wheeled out bland homages, some have also got it right and today’s brand, Fleux, is a prime example. The two models that we’ll dig into below – the FLX001 and FLX002 – are launching … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Fleux Watches revives the 1960s with two vintage-throwback divers for less than $500 each appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Introduces the Voyager Skeleton
Louis Vuitton has been steadily growing its presence in the realm of serious watchmaking, an endeavour that began with its purchase of movement specialist La Fabrique de Temps (LFT) a decade ago. While its recent launches have been extravagant in typical Louis Vuitton style – ranging from a gothic automaton to the casino-inspired jump hours – the brand’s latest is contemporary and low key. Enter the Voyager Skeleton, an open-worked timepiece that incorporates Louis Vuitton’s design language in an unexpectedly minimalist design. Initial thoughts While Louis Vuitton’s top-of-the-line complications are certainly showstoppers, its simpler, regular production watches have historically been a mixed bag. But with a clear change in direction at its watch division, changes seem to be afoot, beginning with the Voyager Skeleton. Granted, it is hardly an affordable watch at over US$50,000, but it is a good looking time-only watch. The highlight is the styling of the open-worked LV60 movement that is both striking and restrained. The bridges possesses a distinctive, geometric style that is decidedly architectural. Although the automatic-winding bridge clearly forms a large “LV”, the branding is surprisingly discreet. In fact, the face of the watch has no overt branding, save for the open-worked barrel. Overall, the execution of the movement is appealing and lives up to expectations, save for one detail – the Etachron regulator looks out of place considering the ...
Time+Tide
A new, sleeker TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Glassbox
TAG Heuer introduced a facelifted Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon with new box-dome crystal Colours are inspired by the piece’s racing heritage and fit into the new Chronograph 42mm line-up as well New and reduced 42mm size for a Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon As part of the 60th anniversary of the iconic Carrera model, TAG Heuer is launching … ContinuedThe post A new, sleeker TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Glassbox appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
A Week In Watches Ep. 44: The New Releases You (Probably) Missed
Welcome to episode 44 of A Week In Watches, a week where we recover from the hustle bustle of Watches & Wonders, and ponder some of the releases that may have slipped through the cracks. We talk about a new world timer watch from Ming, a few new watches from Frederique Constant, more hits from Chopard, and even a new LM Perpetual variant in steel from MB&F; (more from the M.A.D. House coming soon!). Stay tuned as we get our hands on many of these new release for more in-depth reviews. We also caught wind of a new batch of cities selected to sell the MoonSwatch Mission to Moonshine, for one day only this past week. What will this mean for future availability? Do we want more of these special edition MoonSwatches? Let us know in the comments or head over to YouTube to join the discussion. In total this may have been a somewhat low key year for Watches & Wonders, but there was still plenty to explore and discover, even on the fringes and outside of the show itself. We’ve got an inside look at a few other shows taking place in Geneva last week, so keep an eye out for more from the likes of Sinn, DeBethune, F.P. Journe, Doxa, and others. Let us know what releases caught your eye and what you’d like to see reviewed here at Worn & Wound. This week’s episode is brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. The post A Week In Watches Ep. 44: The New Releases You (Probably) Missed appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
Highlights From The Shop: The Citizen Promaster Dive Automatic “Fugu”
Welcome to Highlights From The Shop. In this new series, we’re going to focus on watches in the Windup Shop that we feel deserve more attention. Whether it’s due to a constantly changing news cycle or hundreds of watches being released throughout the year, these watches had a short lifespan at the top of your feed. Whatever the cause, this is our chance to revisit some great watches you may have missed. Welcome to Highlights From The Shop. In this new series, we’re going to focus on watches in the Windup Shop that we feel deserve more attention. Whether it’s due to a constantly changing news cycle or hundreds of watches being released throughout the year, these watches had a short lifespan at the top of your feed. Whatever the cause, this is our chance to revisit some great watches you may have missed. The post Highlights From The Shop: The Citizen Promaster Dive Automatic “Fugu” appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Deployant
Colour My World: Six colourful, vibrant and exciting watches for Your Collection
This week, we look at the brighter side of life, with an eclectic selection of six colourful and vibrant watches that will light up one's collection.
Quill & Pad
The Quest For My Ultimate Fountain Pen Part 1: The All-Over-The-Place Period – Reprise
Martin Green's quest for the ultimate fountain pen began unexpectedly, and over the following decades he learned many things, including nothing compares to writing with a gold nib! Join Martin as he embarks upon part one of his personal fountain pen journey, which includes an inherited piece, a demonstrator, over-the-top colors, and cloisonné enamel.
Time+Tide
Urwerk auctions the UR-105M Trinity piece unique, inspired by a prehistoric monster
Not many watch brands can be proud of the fact that their watches are inspired by dinosaurs, but the deviant horologists over at Urwerk can claim at least two pieces that have drawn inspiration from these overgrown lizards – the UR-100 T-Rex and UR-105 T-Rex. It is the latter that serves as the base for … ContinuedThe post Urwerk auctions the UR-105M Trinity piece unique, inspired by a prehistoric monster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
If Shoes Make The Man, Then The Strap Makes The Watch: Watchmaking And Leather, A Love Story – Reprise
Today many premium watch brands look for that certain “extra element” to get ahead of the competition, and one hot item now is straps. If it is true that shoes make the man, then the strap must make the watch. Jan Lidmaňský shares a selection of interesting partnerships between the worlds of watches and leather.
Time+Tide
Patek Philippe’s Grandmaster Chime is the ultimate Complication from the ultimate complication-makers
Patek Philippe’s most complicated wristwatch is updated with a subtle brown and gold colour scheme, and an outlandish gem-set variant The reversible case houses 20 complications, including two patented exclusives – a date repeater and alarm that sounds the programmed time 118 emeralds and 291 diamonds, both baguette-cut, total nearly 30 carats of gems on … ContinuedThe post Patek Philippe’s Grandmaster Chime is the ultimate Complication from the ultimate complication-makers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Flying high: Zenith redesigns their Pilot Automatic and Pilot Big Date Flyback
Zenith’s new Pilot collection sees a complete redesign of the case aesthetic. Lineup includes a 40mm time and date version, and a big date flyback chrono. The new series is available in both steel and microblasted matte black ceramic, a first for the Pilot line. Zenith is flying into Watches & Wonders with a complete … ContinuedThe post Flying high: Zenith redesigns their Pilot Automatic and Pilot Big Date Flyback appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Watches & Wonders 2023 Round Table: What We Liked and Didn’t Like at the World’s Biggest Watch Fair
Watches and Wonders 2023 ran from Monday, March 27 to Saturday, April 1 at Palexpo in Geneva and was open to the public on the 1st and 2nd of April. It attracted a record 43,000 visitors! That’s nearly double last year’s 22,000 visitors, largely thanks to the opening up of China and Asian countries after the COVID-19 pandemic. The Quill & Pad team was there, and we sat down after the show to discuss what we liked and didn’t like about the 2023 fair.
Time+Tide
Flight club: Fly first class with these 5 upscale pilot’s chronographs
During the golden age of air travel, all seats on a plane were pretty much first-class seats. At the dawn of intercontinental flight, travellers dressed for the occasion, and the experience was much more genteel, even elegant, especially when compared with today’s post-apocalyptic hellscape. Sadly, modern flying has become a soul-crushing exercise, with stressed-out travellers … ContinuedThe post Flight club: Fly first class with these 5 upscale pilot’s chronographs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Zenith Chronomaster A384 Revival Lupin The Third Final Edition: Feeling The Split – Reprise
A special edition of the Zenith Chronomaster Revival based on anime character Lupin the Third has recently launched, the Chronomaster Revival Lupin The Third Final Edition. It is the last of the three editions since 2019 and in Joshua Munchow's opinion it is the most striking one yet.
Time+Tide
10-year-old treasure hunter at a Sydney beach reunites lost 1975 Cartier Santos with its owner
If you ever lose a watch at Mosman’s Balmoral beach in Sydney, it would seem there is a particular family you need to call to increase your odds of its retrieval. The Daily Mail reported that an elderly British man lost his 1975 Cartier Santos watch while visiting the Sydney beach, but thankfully enlisted a … ContinuedThe post 10-year-old treasure hunter at a Sydney beach reunites lost 1975 Cartier Santos with its owner appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Panerai Radiomir Annual Calendar is a first for the brand
High complications are not something we would typically associate with Panerai - however that could all be about to change with the introduction of their first annual calendar movement.The post The Panerai Radiomir Annual Calendar is a first for the brand appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Stephen Nichols
Editor’s Note: In this edition of the 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Stephen Nichols shares not three, but four watches, and somehow still manages to stay under budget. This collection is a testament to micro-brands bringing something a little different to the table, and highlights just how far you can stretch your budget on some truly awesome watches. Stephen was even kind enough to provide his own photography of the watches, so all credit to @talkingabouttime for the imagery within. If you’d like to submit your own 3 watch collection for $5,000 can you do so at the form right here. The old adage, “anything worth doing is worth overdoing,” is as true to watch collecting as it is to anything else. Thankfully, you don’t have to skimp on quality and design for a three-watch collection even when you’re on a budget. Micro-brands are offering up more than just great value, they’re giving us a personalized experience on top of it. Go to a watch fair or slide into a brand’s DMs, and chances are good you’ll be greeted by a dreamer who’s just itching to show you what they’ve made and why they made it. You can score an incredible watch that matches your style and also tells a personal story about the designer. Here’s a list of three, ok maybe four watches that deliver huge value for under $5,000. Watches that I’d be proud to add to my personal collection. Typsim – 200M – $1,199 How do you capture the charm of a vintage diver in a modern packag...