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Beads of Rice Bracelet

Mid-century steel bracelet with discrete bead-shaped links; Gay Frères, NSA, Novavit; modern Forstner revival.

Editorial: LVMH Revives Daniel Roth SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton as Feb 24, 2023

Editorial: LVMH Revives Daniel Roth

The news concerning a revival of Daniel Roth was been circulating in Geneva and Paris for over a year but it is now official. LVMH just announced Daniel Roth “will be run as an independent brand, with guidance and incubation from La Fabrique Du Temps Louis Vuitton, as of February 2023.” Once an independent brand run by its namesake founder, Daniel Roth had its heyday in the mid-1990s when classical complications with Breguet styling were the “in” thing with collectors. Due to Mr Roth’s personal and financial struggles, the brand then changed hands several times before ending up with Bulgari over a decade ago. Daniel Roth had been on ice for several years after a few half-hearted attempts by the Italian jeweller to do something with the brand. No doubt spurred by the renewed interest in independent watchmaking, LVMH has spun off Daniel Roth and attached it to La Fabrique du Temps (LFDT), the complications and movement factory owned by Louis Vuitton (and word has it that the same will soon be done with Gerald Genta, once the sister brand of Daniel Roth). One of the less successful Bulgari-Daniel Roth offerings, a “Chronosprint” made for the All Blacks, New Zealand’s rugby team Revived with resources The return of the brand is the brainchild of Jean Arnault, the Director of Marketing and Development at Louis Vuitton’s watch division. While Mr Arnault is best known as being the youngest son of LVMH chief executive Bernard Arnault, the younger Arnault is a c...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Sinn debuts Goldbronze, Richard Mille emphasises women, tantalising new Moser Time+Tide
Richard Mille emphasises women tantalising new Feb 24, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Sinn debuts Goldbronze, Richard Mille emphasises women, tantalising new Moser

Any fun plans for the weekend? Well, before you get to it, here are the highlights of the week you may have missed and that we have yet to cover ourselves! Sinn goes for Gold(bronze) New T50 watches with new in-house Goldbronze 125 alloy comprised of 12.5% solid gold (Omega’s bronze gold is 37.5% for … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Sinn debuts Goldbronze, Richard Mille emphasises women, tantalising new Moser appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close with Grail Watch 6: De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar “Rhapsody in Blue” Revolution
De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar “Rhapsody Feb 23, 2023

Up Close with Grail Watch 6: De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar “Rhapsody in Blue”

Grail Watch is proud to present Grail Watch 6, a dream collaboration of magnificent proportions! We are extremely privileged to partner with independent watchmaker De Bethune to create a deep blue-dialled version of their gorgeous DB25 Perpetual Calendar in a reduced case size of 40mm, first introduced at Geneva Watch Days 2022. Our version is […]

eBay Finds: Vintage Seikos, Full Kit Chronos & More Worn & Wound
Accutron Day & Date Next Feb 23, 2023

eBay Finds: Vintage Seikos, Full Kit Chronos & More

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Omega Seamaster DeVille First up this week is this beautiful minimalistic Omega Seamaster DeVille presentation watch in 14k yellow gold circa 1966. The solid gold case looks clean and unpolished, with super slim straight lugs. The back has an IBM presentation engraving dated 7/21/66. The champagne dial looks original and nearly perfect, with simple gold stick hour markers and hands. The Omega signed crown is correct. The watch comes with an Omega metal presentation box that shows lots of discoloration, which is common on these boxes. Seller states the watch runs well, no picture of the movement as the case is the front-loading type. View auction here. Vintage Bulova Accutron Day & Date Next up is a really cool and unusual Accutron. This model is unique with its “up-down” day/date configuration. The day is read vertically and is positioned just below the 12, and the date window is at 6. I love the way this dial design is so symmetrical. The dial does seem to have a light, fairly even patina that is not unpleasant. The square hour markers are lume filled and match the big stick hands nicely. Correct signed crown at 4 o’clock. The caliber 2182 tuning fork movement is clean ...

Richard E Grant may have found the only excuse for double-wristing (but there’s a catch…) Time+Tide
Feb 23, 2023

Richard E Grant may have found the only excuse for double-wristing (but there’s a catch…)

We all need some prejudicial rules of thumb to navigate the messy business of life.  Charles Bukowski swore by the fairly unimpeachable conviction that you should “never trust a man in a jumpsuit”. Billy Connolly meanwhile believed you should “never trust a man who, when left alone with a tea cosy, doesn’t try it on” … ContinuedThe post Richard E Grant may have found the only excuse for double-wristing (but there’s a catch…) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Grand Seiko Opens First Singapore Boutique SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Opens First Singapore Boutique Feb 23, 2023

Business News: Grand Seiko Opens First Singapore Boutique

Grand Seiko has just opened the first of its own boutiques in Asia outside of Japan, which is located at the Marina Bay Sands casino resort in Singapore. Situated along a corridor alongside major luxury watch brands, the store reflects Grand Seiko’s ambitions in positioning itself alongside establishment brands. The inaugural store run by Grand Seiko’s recently-established Asian arm, it becomes the new platform for enthusiasts to experience the brand’s timepieces, including its top-of-the-line complications. It’s the first milestone for Grand Seiko Asia-Pacific, the joint venture set up last year with its longtime retailer in the region, Thong Sia Watch Co. Ltd.  Akio Naito, Chairman of Grand Seiko Asia-Pacific and President of the Seiko Watch Corporation, explained the choice of the city state for its first boutique in the region: “Singapore is home to some of the most knowledgeable and passionate luxury watch enthusiasts in the world, and we are excited to provide them with a more direct interaction with the brand…” Keeping in line with the brand’s philosophy, “The Nature of Time”, the boutique’s interior is modern while sticking to traditional materials and details. The store sports a clean, modern design with warm wood for the floor and cabinets, retaining the subtle, Japanese refinement that the brand is known for.  The boutique is also the place for clients and enthusiasts to learn more about the brand. In particular, it allows them to experi...

H. Moser Debuts the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel, their First Watch in the Exotic Metal Worn & Wound
H. Moser Debuts Feb 22, 2023

H. Moser Debuts the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel, their First Watch in the Exotic Metal

Moser’s latest is the brand’s first ever release in tantalum, a rarely used metal with unique characteristics that make it one of the more rewarding metals in all of watchmaking. In other words, it has a beautiful aesthetic impact, but it takes a lot of work and knowledge to get it to that point. Using it at all is something of a flex for any brand, and Moser is throwing down the gauntlet to a certain extent with this release. Somewhat predictably, they’ve incorporated what has come to be the brand’s signature complication, a unique and easy to read perpetual calendar, into their first tantalum watch, all with an elaborate enamel dial with a distinct hammered texture.  The clear highlight of the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel is the use of tantalum, so we’ll start there. Tantalum is extremely dense and strong, qualities which make it an excellent candidate as a case metal for a luxury watch. It’s also very corrosion resistant, and develops a very thin layer of oxidation when exposed to air that naturally protects it. Tantalum also has a gray-blue tone to it that is quite unlike any other metal, giving it a unique quality that no other metal can match.  The reason tantalum is so uncommon in watchmaking is because it is very difficult to machine thanks to a melting point that comes in around 3000 °C. It takes advanced technology and equipment to properly fabricate tantalum for watchmaking purposes, which of course requires not only a substa...

Longines Introduces the Pilot Majetek SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Feb 22, 2023

Longines Introduces the Pilot Majetek

Long associated with professional pursuits in the early years of the 20th century, Longines made watches worn by explorers, scientists, soldiers, and aviators. Examples include the chronographs made for the hydrographic institute of the Italian navy in the 1930s and the wristwatches supplied to the British army in the 1940s. One of the brand’s most distinctive watches from the period was the cushion-shaped aviator’s watch made for the personnel of the Czech air force in 1935, which has now been reimagined as the Pilot Majetek. Initial thoughts The Pilot Majetek is actually Longines’ second outing in reissuing the Czech air force original. Launched almost a decade ago, the first reissue had too many elements (including a date and “automatic” on the dial) that instantly gave away the fact that it was a modern watch. In contrast, the Pilot Majetek avoids those pitfalls. The design is not a like-for-like reproduction of the original as it has a bulked-up case with crown guards and a wider bezel amongst other tweaks. But it doesn’t have any design elements that stand out as being inappropriate in a vintage-inspired watch. So on its face the Pilot Majetek appears to tick all the boxes as a vintage reissue, but with a big few caveat. Though I’ve yet to see it in person, it is almost certainly a bulky watch at 43 mm in diameter and over 13 mm high, essentially the same dimensions as a chunky sports chronograph and certainly much larger than the 41 mm original, whic...

The Longines Pilot Majetek is a wrist-mounted flight instrument with a storied past Time+Tide
Longines Pilot Majetek Feb 22, 2023

The Longines Pilot Majetek is a wrist-mounted flight instrument with a storied past

From measuring Lindberg’s first transatlantic flight to the monopusher chronograph worn by Amelia Earhart and the Weems, Longines’ tradition of pilot’s watches is a storied one. By the time the 1930s rolled around, Longines had developed a simple system for tracking time in the form of an arrow that rotated with the bezel. You could … ContinuedThe post The Longines Pilot Majetek is a wrist-mounted flight instrument with a storied past appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Junghans 1972 FIS Nordic World Ski Championships editions Time+Tide
Junghans 1972 FIS Nordic World Feb 22, 2023

INTRODUCING: The Junghans 1972 FIS Nordic World Ski Championships editions

Junghans have a long and impressive history in the Black Forest region of Germany, so they’re definitely not afraid of some snow. Despite being famed for their heritage and Bauhaus designs, Junghans haven’t stopped developing new models and retro-futuristic styles either. The Junghans 1972 series captures two distinct levels of vintage oddity, now paired with … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Junghans 1972 FIS Nordic World Ski Championships editions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

[VIDEO] Inside the Collection: Pairing the Tudor Pelagos 39 & the Rolex Submariner 14060M Worn & Wound
Tudor Pelagos 39 & Feb 21, 2023

[VIDEO] Inside the Collection: Pairing the Tudor Pelagos 39 & the Rolex Submariner 14060M

As much as I advocate for expanding your boundaries when it comes to the type of watches you experience, most of our time is spent in the middle of our lane. These are the comfort food of watches, the sweet spot you keep coming back to. For me, these are typically simple divers or tool watches, the archetype of which is of course the Submariner. Not very exciting, but a great everyday companion that’s easy to use and read, with an uncanny ability to pair with pretty much any outfit or look. Plenty of other watches fall into the category as well, but the Submariner sets the bar, and does so particularly well in the form of the reference 14060M. Where more modern references have veered ever so slightly into “it needs to make a statement” territory, there is a humbleness that remains within the 14060, if ever a word could be applied to a Submariner.  The peculiar vibe of the 14060 may be absent within the present catalog of Rolex sports watches, but that doesn’t mean it’s not out there in other more modern watches. In fact, you don’t have to stray far from the family to find such a candidate. Tudor has managed to capture a lot of the charm of early Rolex references in recent years, and one in particular strikes me as a perfect embodiment of what I love about 5 digit Subs, and that is the Pelagos 39. When this watch was introduced I referred to it as the modern Sub we never got, and expanded on that in my full review of the watch. I’ve since welcomed a P39 into ...

HANDS-ON: Add another Traveller GMT to the mix with the Bulova Wilton GMT Time+Tide
Bulova Wilton GMT When it Feb 21, 2023

HANDS-ON: Add another Traveller GMT to the mix with the Bulova Wilton GMT

When it comes to watch releases, 2022 was undoubtedly the year of the affordable GMT. As the world continued to flex it’s legs and travel again, watch brands were all to ready to provide the perfect wristwear for the occasion. And while some felt it best to package these watches as sporty offerings, Bulova decided … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Add another Traveller GMT to the mix with the Bulova Wilton GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vaer Gets Funky with the R1 USA Racing Chronograph Worn & Wound
Feb 21, 2023

Vaer Gets Funky with the R1 USA Racing Chronograph

The Venice based and independently owned watch brand, Vaer, has been a busy one since the middle of last year. They’ve expanded their catalog by launching a series of new collections and adding a couple of brand new models while still maintaining their foundational ethos of designing well-made, vintage-inspired watches that, price tag wise, are as approachable as you can get. Observing the brand from afar, it feels that they’ve carved a space for themselves into more of a mainstream market, offering up a collection of affordable watches that resemble popular vintage design and appealing to those who just need one good looking watch that’ll get them through a day at the office, as well as a weekend filled with outdoor activity. The R1 USA Chronograph, one of Vaer’s new releases, still feels like, well, a Vaer. It has all the characteristics that’ll make it another popular offering from the brand, but there’s something most certainly refreshing about the R1 Chronograph. It feels like Vaer strayed away from the classic recipe book, experimented with their own selection of ingredients, and the end product is a watch that’s more for the deep cut watch enthusiast. The R1 USA Chronograph has a lot going on and it’s difficult to pinpoint exactly what makes it distinct. The case is a perfect example. The R1 Chronograph resembles a Monnin style case, which is a favorite of mine that’s seen on the likes of a CWC Royal Navy Diver. There are also hints of the pillow-l...

Antiques Roadshow delivers the feels (again) with this old solider’s white-gold Rolex Day-Date Time+Tide
Rolex Day-Date Let’s not sugar-coat Feb 21, 2023

Antiques Roadshow delivers the feels (again) with this old solider’s white-gold Rolex Day-Date

Let’s not sugar-coat things here: life can often be a cold, hard bitch. But if you know where to look, you can still find plenty of feel-good moments to brighten the inevitable gloom. Some things, in fact, are guaranteed serotonin boosters that simply cannot fail to lift sagging spirts. Being welcomed home by a happy … ContinuedThe post Antiques Roadshow delivers the feels (again) with this old solider’s white-gold Rolex Day-Date appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Minase Masterpiece collection lives up to its name Time+Tide
Minase Feb 21, 2023

The Minase Masterpiece collection lives up to its name

When a brand so full of artistic integrity as Minase labels something a masterpiece, we had better pay attention. Given the level of quality and attention to detail of even the most affordable Minase, what they can do in super-limited runs with a sizeable budget and the help of dedicated artisans is almost beyond the … ContinuedThe post The Minase Masterpiece collection lives up to its name appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The IWC Portofino Complete Calendar features an exciting brand first Time+Tide
IWC Portofino Complete Calendar features Feb 20, 2023

The IWC Portofino Complete Calendar features an exciting brand first

New calendar module debuts in the IWC Portofino Complete Calendar Available in stainless steel or 18k 5N gold IWC also introduces a new Portofino Pointer Date in 39mm If I asked what the first watch you think of is when I say IWC, I wonder how many would name the Portofino. I certainly wouldn’t, but … ContinuedThe post The IWC Portofino Complete Calendar features an exciting brand first appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ulysse Nardin Really Knows How to Name a Watch. Exhibit A: the Blast Blue & Gold Worn & Wound
Ulysse Nardin Really Knows How Feb 20, 2023

Ulysse Nardin Really Knows How to Name a Watch. Exhibit A: the Blast Blue & Gold

Something I don’t think we discuss often enough are watch names. For people like me who are irredeemably bad at remembering obscure reference numbers, watch names are key. Some brands struggle with this, refusing to come up with interesting or imaginative names for their watches, but tagging them only by whatever slightly unique feature they possess. Other brands let the enthusiast do the work for them. I’m thinking of Seiko here. They don’t actually make a watch called the Sumo, or the Tuna, or the Arnie, but these names and many more have become a universally recognized shorthand. And then there are brands that absolutely nail their watch names. I’d like to submit that Ulysse Nardin is at the top of the heap here. Consider a few of these bangers: Freak, Lemon Shark, Classico Manara, Blast  A little of everything here. We’ve got Italian, we’ve got ocean vibes, we’ve got suggestions of color, and best of all, we have short and punchy. Nobody is forgetting about the Freak (especially after watching our recent breakdown of the mechanics), and Blast? I mean, come on. What could a watch named the Blast possibly look like?  The Blast watches are defined at least in part by their unique three pronged lug arrangement, which essentially makes each and every one an integrated creation. These are large, sometimes ostentatious sports watches that come on straps, frequently feature tourbillons, and have what I think you’d generally describe as a contemporary aest...

Announcing the 2023 Windup Watch Fair Schedule! Worn & Wound
Feb 20, 2023

Announcing the 2023 Windup Watch Fair Schedule!

2022 was a big year for the Windup Watch Fair. We expanded our San Francisco and New York City events and launched a brand new Fair in Chicago. Thanks to the support of the Worn & Wound community, each event was more well-attended than the last. Heading into 2023, we’re excited to build on this momentum with even bigger and better events. For the uninitiated, Windup is a three-day-long shopping event that brings watch brands and customers together in a fun, approachable, and engaging environment. Always free and open to the public, Windup encourages everyone from seasoned collectors to first-time watch buyers to come in, take a look, and talk watches. Here’s a quick recap of our most recent event in NYC to give you a sneak peek of what to expect. If you own or represent a brand and are interested in participating in Windup this year (or partnering with Worn & Wound in other ways), please click here to complete a short questionnaire. Now, onto the 2023 schedule of events! San Francisco – Friday, April 28 through Sunday, April 30, 2023 After successfully expanding the San Francisco Windup Watch Fair into a new venue in 2022, we’re excited to be kicking off the 2023 Fair schedule at the same location, the Terra Gallery (511 Harrison Street), this time occupying both the first and second floors of the facility. That’s right, this year’s San Francisco Fair will be even bigger than the last, with 60+ presenting brands and, for the first time in San Francisco, live pa...

Hands On: IWC Portofino Complete Calendar SJX Watches
Casio nal Roman numerals.  While Feb 20, 2023

Hands On: IWC Portofino Complete Calendar

Last year, IWC reinvigorated the underrated Portofino line that’s long been overshadowed by the bestselling Pilot’s Watch and Portugieser. Historically one of the brand’s most classical offerings, the Portofino is best summarised as clean, almost minimalist, with the occasional Roman numerals.  While recent Portofino complications have been somewhat plain, the Portofino perpetual calendar made things a little more interesting. Now IWC is continuing with the theme in a more affordable manner with the Portofino Complete Calendar. Taking its design cues from the more complex perpetual, the Complete Calendar is slightly larger but mechanically simpler. And as a result of the entry-level pricing, it is is powered by the no-frills ValFleurier movement widely used by watch brands owned by Swiss luxury group Richemont, which naturally includes IWC.  The symmetrical dial The ValFleurier movement has been dressed up for the display back Initial thoughts For the longest time, IWC has emphasised two lines, Pilot’s Watches and Portugieser, simply because they sell the best. At the same time, it has tried  to rejuvenate its other collections like the Ingenieuir and Aquatimer with little success. Last year it made tentative steps in reviving the Portofino collection with an all-new perpetual calendar. Simple in design, the Portofino perpetual doesn’t try to do too much – and for that reason it found some success as the brand’s entry-level perpetual calendar. Now IWC is ...

It’s Sydney’s time to shine with the Vacheron Constantin Villes Lumières Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Villes Lumières Sleep deprivation Feb 20, 2023

It’s Sydney’s time to shine with the Vacheron Constantin Villes Lumières

Sleep deprivation, hunger and having to pull a suitcase behind you while trying not to collapse are the usual symptoms of flying into a new city late at night, however one of the few saving graces is the view you can get looking over the illuminated cityscape. Witnessing the streets and landscapes glowing with life … ContinuedThe post It’s Sydney’s time to shine with the Vacheron Constantin Villes Lumières appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The MALM Air Wolf Viggen is a modern pilot’s watch with a Swedish twist Time+Tide
Feb 20, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: The MALM Air Wolf Viggen is a modern pilot’s watch with a Swedish twist

Aviation has a longstanding history with timekeeping and wristwatches, but that doesn’t mean you need to have decades of heritage behind you to make an impact. MALM first launched their brand in 2019 and have grown quickly with an impressive catalogue of releases, alongside partnerships with the Swedish Air Force and the Swedish Navy. Being … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The MALM Air Wolf Viggen is a modern pilot’s watch with a Swedish twist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Just A Minute With The Oris Big Crown Calibre 473 - Windup Watch Shop Worn & Wound
Oris Big Crown Calibre 473 Feb 19, 2023

Just A Minute With The Oris Big Crown Calibre 473 - Windup Watch Shop

Let’s take just a minute with the Oris Big Crown Calibre 473. Oris’s latest Big Crown design measures 38mm in diameter, 45mm in length, and 12.7mm thick. Attached to the Big Crown is a Cervo Volante sustainably sourced deer leather strap in 19mm, with a gorgeous butterfly deployant clasp. The star of the show however is the 5-day, manually wound Calibre 473 inside that hacks and features Oris’s signature pointer date. Other features include a double-domed sapphire crystal, and a 5 bar water resistant case design with screw down crown. Let’s take just a minute with the Oris Big Crown Calibre 473. Oris’s latest Big Crown design measures 38mm in diameter, 45mm in length, and 12.7mm thick. Attached to the Big Crown is a Cervo Volante sustainably sourced deer leather strap in 19mm, with a gorgeous butterfly deployant clasp. The star of the show however is the 5-day, manually wound Calibre 473 inside that hacks and features Oris’s signature pointer date. Other features include a double-domed sapphire crystal, and a 5 bar water resistant case design with screw down crown. The post Just A Minute With The Oris Big Crown Calibre 473 – Windup Watch Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Feb 19, 2023

A Week in Watches Ep. 37: Analog Tech and Retro Digital (Audio Edition)

This week’s episode of A Week in Watches is slightly different – it’s audio only. To make up for the lack of visuals, however, we have two hosts! Yes, both Zach Weiss and Blake Buettner jump on this time to discuss some new and exciting releases from Blancpain, Grand Seiko, and Autodromo. Check it out below, or tune in wherever you go to listen to your podcasts. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 37: Analog Tech and Retro Digital (Audio Edition) appeared first on Worn & Wound.

From bank robber to worm picker, the best watches for the weirdest jobs Time+Tide
Feb 19, 2023

From bank robber to worm picker, the best watches for the weirdest jobs

Before buying a watch it’s important to consider how it will fit into your life, as different watches may benefit some lifestyles over others. The contradictory trope of the “desk diver” is well known to describe a dive watch worn at an office job, but what if your job is less than conventional to say … ContinuedThe post From bank robber to worm picker, the best watches for the weirdest jobs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Meet the world’s smallest travel watch winder - the WOLF Rocket Time+Tide
Feb 19, 2023

Meet the world’s smallest travel watch winder - the WOLF Rocket

When you think of a watch winder, you typically think of a big and boxy thing that you have to carve out desk or tabletop space for. And, ultimately, these winders are things you do not really ever transport – a strictly at-home solution. WOLF, however, has now developed a portable watch winder that upholds … ContinuedThe post Meet the world’s smallest travel watch winder – the WOLF Rocket appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New: Bulova Accutron Astronaut Deployant
Accutron Astronaut DEPLOYANT - Feb 18, 2023

New: Bulova Accutron Astronaut

One of the most notable aspects of the Bulova Astronaut Re-Edition is its design. The watch features a 41mm stainless steel case with a black dial and luminous hands and markers, similar to the original watch. It also features a distinctive Day/Night bezel which helps the wearer track two time zones simultaneously. The watch is powered by a Swiss-made automatic movement, which ironically makes it no longer the 'most accurate watch in the world'; a phrase used to describe the original 1968 model with the 214HN sub-caliber.