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Results for The 1985 Swatch Consolidation

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The 1985 Swatch Consolidation

How Nicolas Hayek\'s ASUAG/SSIH merger (1983) and Swatch brand launch (March 1983) rescued Swiss watchmaking from the quartz crisis.

Panerai Introduces the Luminor GMT ION Singapore Edition PAM 1177 SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces Oct 1, 2020

Panerai Introduces the Luminor GMT ION Singapore Edition PAM 1177

A limited edition created to mark the opening of the revamped Panerai boutique in Singapore – which is now almost a decade old, having opened in 2011 – the Luminor GMT ION Special Edition PAM01177 is a variation on the standard-production PAM01033. Featuring a 44 mm case, it’s accented in red, the key colour of the Singapore national flag, and bears the island nation’s emblem on the case back. Initial thoughts The highlight of the new Luminor GMT are aesthetic tweaks – although Panerai is doing a red crown for the first time here. It is not majorly different, but the design is on point for a sports watch, with the red elements easily blending in without disrupting the typical clean style of the Luminor. Despite the simplicity of the colour palette, it manages to stand apart from most current sports watches because it avoids being blue, the colour that’s all the rage now. And it is very much a contemporary Panerai in style, doing away with the heavily-traditional designs of the brand’s historically-inspired models. With the tweaks being modest, it is priced reasonably as such things go. This costs S$13,850, about 7%, or S$900, over the standard PAM01033. But it’s worth keeping in mind the P.9010 inside the ION edition is a noticeably simpler movement than the P.9011 found in the PAM01033, lacking the power reserve indicator on the back for instance. Overall, it is a good-looking sports watch, though the simpler movement is a bit of a downer. Singapore deta...

INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox is an alarmingly different type of Polaris Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox Oct 1, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox is an alarmingly different type of Polaris

Although it’s never really taken off as an uber-popular complication like a chronograph or moonphase, the alarm function of JLC’s Memovox watches has, since they were first unveiled in 1968, been exceedingly practical. But it’s a complication that’s usually been found in the watchmaker’s daintier, and perhaps less practical, dress watches. This has meant that … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox is an alarmingly different type of Polaris appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date, is a bolder, more confident move for the Polaris Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date Sep 30, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date, is a bolder, more confident move for the Polaris

Jaeger-LeCoultre is widely regarded as making some of the finest dress watches on the market. But for those not familiar with the Le Sentier firm’s full collection, JLC also makes a very good stainless steel sports watch – the Polaris. And now the legacy watchmaker has decided to up the ante with the Polaris, broadening … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date, is a bolder, more confident move for the Polaris appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hermès Introduces the Arceau Pocket Aaaaargh! Minute Repeater SJX Watches
Hermes Sep 30, 2020

Hermès Introduces the Arceau Pocket Aaaaargh! Minute Repeater

English artist Alice Shirley has been creating illustrations for Hermès to reproduce on its scarves since 2012. Typically imaginative motifs of flora and fauna, two of Ms Shirley’s illustrations have made their way onto Hermès wristwatches. And now the Parisian leatherwoods maker has just revealed the third, and most impressive, instalment of this crossover – the Arceau Pocket Aaaaargh! Minute Repeater. A pocket watch boasting a minute repeater and tourbillon, the Aaaaargh! is decorated in leather mosaic and marquetry – and a very large eyeball in grand feu enamel. It’s named after the sound a Tyrannosaurus rex presumably made, and continues the phonetic naming conventions of Ms Shirley’s earlier watches, which were the Slim Hermès Grrrrr! with a bear motif and the Arceau Awooooo featuring a howling wolf. Initial thoughts Unlike the previous two Alice Shirley watches that were time-only, the Tyrannosaurus is a pocket watch – unusual in itself – and also combines a minute repeater and tourbillon. In addition to the complicated mechanics, the motif is executed more elaborately than on the earlier watches, which admittedly were substantially more affordable, most notably with the three-dimensional enamel eye and intricate leather inlays. The result is an intriguing, fun, and imaginative watch that is very much in keeping with Hermès’ quirky, elegant, and expensive house style. Compared to the typically safe and practical high-end complication, the Arceau...

Rewriting History – Discovering the Earliest Flyback Chronograph Wristwatch SJX Watches
Longines unparalleled history Sep 29, 2020

Rewriting History – Discovering the Earliest Flyback Chronograph Wristwatch

As a collector, I find myself in the rather sparsely populated niche of observatory chronometers. Due to Longines’ unparalleled history in precision timekeeping, the brand became a long-standing, personal favourite. Notably, competition chronometer movements, like the 30B with its off-centre construction and the rectangular 360, strike all the right chords with me. Along the way, I inevitably bumped into Longines’ outstanding in-house chronograph calibres – in chronological order, the 13.33Z, 13ZN, and 30CH – which opened a new door away from my focused, chronometer-centric journey as a collector. And it also led me to a discovery that rewrites horological history, one that gives Longines the title of having produced the very first flyback wristwatch chronograph, as well as the first chronograph wristwatch with two pushers. A catalogue page showing various Longines chronograph movements in the 1930s, with the topmost pair being for wristwatches, and the others for pocket watches 13.33Z Though Longines had produced several remarkable wristwatch chronograph movements, a two-pusher flyback chronograph powered by the 13.33Z had become the object of my desire. A watch that was only produced in minuscule quantities and remains largely unknown to even the most discerning of collectors, with only eight examples known the market. A long and winding quest ensued that ultimately resulted in the opportunity to acquire an exceptional example from a private collection in German...

Our Predictions In The Ladies Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): A Sprinkling Of Jewels, A Mismatched Date, And The Ever-Raging Debate On Quartz Quill & Pad
Sep 29, 2020

Our Predictions In The Ladies Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): A Sprinkling Of Jewels, A Mismatched Date, And The Ever-Raging Debate On Quartz

The GPHG foundation describes the Ladies category for watches entered as “comprising only the following indications: hours, minutes, seconds, date, power reserve, and/or classic moon phase. These timepieces may be adorned with a maximum of eight carats’ worth of gemstones.” While our panelists aren't quite unanimous, we do have a clear favorite as a winner here. Read on to find out why.

5 of the best watches released in 2020 under $3k, including Grand Seiko, Bulgari and Monta Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Bulgari Sep 29, 2020

5 of the best watches released in 2020 under $3k, including Grand Seiko, Bulgari and Monta

This has been a bountiful year for the horologically inclined, and full of surprises. We have gone shopping with the virtual Time+Tide gold credit card, and found what we think might be five of the best watches under $3kUSD in 2020. It is an eclectic selection, from established microbrands to tough divers and a flyweight … ContinuedThe post 5 of the best watches released in 2020 under $3k, including Grand Seiko, Bulgari and Monta appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breguet Introduces the Classique Double Tourbillon 5345 Quai de l’Horloge SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces Sep 29, 2020

Breguet Introduces the Classique Double Tourbillon 5345 Quai de l’Horloge

Having unveiled mostly simpler watches in the year so far, like the new Tradition with retrograde date, Breguet is now launching something big, both mechanically and literally. The Classique Double Tourbillon 5345 Quai de l’Horloge is, admittedly, a heavily fancied up variant of an existing model, but in typical Breguet style, it is executed to a high level of fit and finish. Originally launched in 2006 as the ref. 5347 with a guilloche dial (and subsequently as the ref. 5349 set with diamonds), the Classique Double Tourbillon has been refined and elaborated upon. It now boasts a skeletonised dial with upgraded decoration, hand-engraved bridges, as well as a thinner case band, but the watch remains enormous. Initial thoughts The original Double Tourbillon was enormous – 44 mm by 17.05 mm – with a tall, bulbous bezel that made it look even thicker. Named after the located of the original Breguet workshops in Paris, the new Double Tourbillon 5345 addresses that as much as possible by narrowing the bezel case band as much as possible, and instead using an highly-domed sapphire crystal that’s almost half the total height. It’s still a very large watch, but it looks less voluminous and massive, especially with the open-worked dial. The sapphire chapter ring for the hours and minutes that encircles the movement Decoration and materials are top class. There is a lot of decoration, but it goes well together, unlike on the original model. The decor seemed incongruous o...

Good morning, London! Time and Tide Watches opens first international office in the UK, to be run by former GQ Australia Editor, Mike Christensen Time+Tide
Sep 28, 2020

Good morning, London! Time and Tide Watches opens first international office in the UK, to be run by former GQ Australia Editor, Mike Christensen

Well, it’s taken six years, but today a dream comes true. I am thrilled beyond measure to announce that former GQ Australia Editor, and recent Geneva Watch Days collaborator, Mike Christensen is joining the team as European Editor – Time+Tide is coming to London! The London-based role vanquishes the tyranny of distance and sees Time+Tide … ContinuedThe post Good morning, London! Time and Tide Watches opens first international office in the UK, to be run by former GQ Australia Editor, Mike Christensen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Glashütte Original Introduces the Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 SJX Watches
Glashütte Original Introduces Sep 28, 2020

Glashütte Original Introduces the Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920

Invented in 1920 by German watchmaker Alfred Helwig, the flying tourbillon marks its 100th year anniversary this year. To commemorate the occasion, Glashütte Original – Helwig spent most of his career in Glashütte, including several decades teaching in the town’s watch school – has unveiled a watch featuring, unsurprisingly, a flying tourbillon. Limited to 25 pieces, the Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 is pared-back on the front but smartly executed on the reverse, with the cal. 54-01 ticking away inside. Not only does it have an extra-long power reserve of 100 hours, the cal. 54-01 is finished to a high standard that is recognisably superior to earlier Glashütte Original tourbillon movements. A young Alfred Helwig and a scale model of his invention Initial thoughts This is the third tourbillon watch Glashütte Original has launched this year, after this and this. That’s a lot. Although Glashütte Original has had countless tourbillon models in its catalogue over the years, with most being fairly short-lived, what it really excels at are affordable, well-made watches like the Sixties. Compared to the tourbillons unveiled earlier in the year, both of which were decorated with extensive, floral engraving, the Tourbillon 1920 appears less elaborate – although the movement is finished very well, and very traditionally. The finishing does look excellent, but the US$135,000 price tag feels a bit steep for Glashütte Original. In comparison, the Senator Chronometer T...

Review: The Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5180/1R – No Skeletons In This Closet Deployant
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref 5180/1R – Sep 28, 2020

Review: The Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5180/1R – No Skeletons In This Closet

Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5180/1R The Patek Philippe Calatrava is many things: elegant, dainty, simple, dressy, thin. One thing it is not, is exhibitionist – well, at least not until the Ref. 5180 came along. First available in white gold, Patek Philippe’s openworked wonder was, to say the least, polarising. But that didn’t stop theRead More

INTRODUCING: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph Gold Titanium Tantalum redefines the luxury diver Time+Tide
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph Sep 28, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph Gold Titanium Tantalum redefines the luxury diver

Omega’s lines between utility and luxury are ever-blurring, and increasingly confusing to people who like to categorise watches into strict genres and tropes. The truth is, the centuries-old Swiss powerhouse is constantly proving that you can have high-performance, high-specification and high-flex wristwatches without spending anywhere near as much as the competition. More to the point: … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph Gold Titanium Tantalum redefines the luxury diver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Meca-10 movement makes a move into the Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Black Magic Time+Tide
Hublot Meca-10 movement makes Sep 27, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Meca-10 movement makes a move into the Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Black Magic

A dark brooding presence on the wrist is causing infatuation today, with a vast power reserve and the unexpected lightness of high-tech ceramic. The new Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Black Magic is a futuristic tonneau-shaped timepiece that surprises and assures you in equal measure, with its lightweight tank-like solidity and industrial fascination. A … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot Meca-10 movement makes a move into the Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Black Magic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.