Deployant
New: Biver Carillon Tourbillon
The birth of a new brand. Industry legend Jean-Claude Biver works with his son to release a ultra high end watch - the new Biver Carillon Tourbillon.
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Deployant
The birth of a new brand. Industry legend Jean-Claude Biver works with his son to release a ultra high end watch - the new Biver Carillon Tourbillon.
Worn & Wound
This episode of A Week In Watches is the answer to the ultimate question of life, the universe, and everything: 42. It is also the lead in to Watches & Wonders, which begins tomorrow. Our editorial team will be there in full force, and you can follow along with all the action right here on Worn & Wound, and on our YouTube channel, which you can subscribe to right here. In the lead up to the show, we’re seeing plenty of exciting releases hoping to get the jump on things, so this week we’re taking a look at something new (but also old) from Urwerk in the form of a new 102 Reloaded. We’ve also got looks at new watches from Czapek, Longines, Vulcain, and Furlan Marri for a healthy selection of new watches across the spectrum. We’ve got plenty more to say about the new Longines Spirit Flyback Chronograph right here, a watch that reclaims the brand’s history as the first to use a flyback mechanism in a wristwatch back in the 1920s. Keep an eye out for hands-on impressions of the rest of these watches coming to the pages of Worn & Wound soon. Let us know your thoughts in the comments below. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com. The post A Week In Watches Ep. 42: Longines Reclaims Their Heritage, Furlan Marri & Urwerk Get Reloaded appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
How about it? After years of rumours and months of teasing, we were finally presented with the model that will spearhead Daniel Roth’s revival, aptly chosen to be a Tourbillon Souscription. We’ve seen the Daniel Roth name pop up in numerous auctions (here and here, for example), building up the hype, which I may or … ContinuedThe post Daniel Roth is back with the Tourbillon Souscription (and LVMH) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
When someone says “I’m no prude,” it is pretty easy to imagine what typically comes next: a prudish commentary on some aspect of modern society or youth culture. GaryG likes sex. There we go! To the point and leaves no doubt as to intent. That said, he typically tries to keep his interests in sex and watches somewhat distinct. But has the watch industry at large done that, now and in the past?
Time+Tide
The Swiss watchmaker collaborates with a Chinese movie production producing two Hamilton Wandering Earth special editions A limited, transparent case model will be available in mainland China only, while Australians can find the two special editions in the Time+Tide Shop The second special edition is an adaptation of the Jazzmaster Thinline, with a Wandering Earth-themed … ContinuedThe post The Hamilton Wandering Earth II expands the brand horizons, without spoilers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
After several consecutive hit collaborations, Louis Erard debuts its first with a wood marquetry dial. Arguably its most ambitious release yet in terms of craftsmanship, the Excellence Marqueterie features a dial inlaid with tiny pieces of wood to form an M.C. Escher-like motif. For the dial, the brand tapped Bastien Chevalier, a Swiss artisan who specialises the art of creating designs and patterns out of intricately cut pieces of wood, although other materials like stone, silicon, straw, and even leather can be used for the technique. Initial thoughts In my view, most watchmakers tend to collaborate only as a last resort, when they’ve run out of ideas. What sets Louis Erard apart is its coherent strategy for collaborations. Whether created by industrial designer atelier oï, or a watchmaker like Vianney Halter, its collaboration editions are still recognisable as Louis Erard thanks to the use of the same steel case. And they are uniformly produced in small runs and priced below CHF4,000. The new Excellence Marqueterie continues this successful formula, bringing wood marquetry to the sub-US$10,000 category for the first time. While brands like anOrdain are doing something similar with affordably priced enamel dials that are designed for modern tastes, there’s never been a marquetry dial at this price point. Not only does the dial look good, it is impressively constructed from dozens of hand-made elements that require careful finishing. Despite the more complex dial...
Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Nothing Tech Don’t Want To Follow The Wireless Headphone Crowd? Peep The Nothing’s Updated Ear(2) Via Gear Patrol For the longest, I have been “anti” Apple Airpods. I always thought people looked silly when they had those little white apparatuses sticking out of their ear canal and even sillier when I would see someone having a phone conversation, but to my eye, it looked like they were talking to themselves. Well, I’m ready to eat some crow, because as I’m writing these very words, I currently have a set of Apple Airpods Pro snuggled in and I do not hear a peep from the outside world. I now understand the appeal. They’re convenient and they sure do beat lugging around my Bose Comfort 45s. Via Gear Patrol But this WSG story isn’t about the Apple Airpod. It’s about another set of wireless headphones that could be a solid alternative in the event you were wireless-headphone-curious and didn’t want to look like everyone else. The Nothing Ear (2) is the latest from the London-based tech company whose main mission is to “remove barriers betwee...
Deployant
Perrelet introduces shades of green and blue in their new Lab Peripheral Collections with three novelties. Here are the release details.
Time+Tide
If the moon was the frontier of the 1960s, then the deepest sea has been the frontier ever since – specifically the Mariana Trench in the Western Pacific Ocean. Last year, saw yet another challenge laid down, but this time not in an actual attempt to reach the bottom, rather in the release of the … ContinuedThe post Big Watches, Small Wrists Part 5: The best deep divers for slim wrists appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
GaryG was delighted when his favorite local independent watch retailer brought out a very special piece, one of five HM9 Sapphire Vision watches in white gold with a vivid purple movement. And he was even more pleased when he was allowed to take some photos to share before the watch was delivered to its happy new owner.
Worn & Wound
Editor’s Note: In this edition of the 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, long time reader Eric L. shares their trio of watches, which include a brand I had to Google to discover. This is a collection motivated not by hype, but by enthusiasm alone so hat’s off to Eric for this selection. Bonos points for one of the coolest G-Shocks in existence. If you’d like to submit your own 3 watch collection for $5,000 can you do so at the form right here. Header image credit: Analog:Shift Long time listener, first time caller. NATO’s are great…always. Full Stop…no question. Keep up the good work folks. Omega Speedmaster MKII Racing – $4,000 It’s a Speedmaster, but you didn’t type in “best watch algorithm” in the Google Machine to find out which Speedy you should buy (It’s the Professional Moonwatch…it went to the moon, but Omega rarely talks about it). Plus, everyone knows that the 70’s racing scene was so funky and lit that it deserves more credit that it receives. Funky case, orange highlights, tach ring under the glass…it’s just better than the Moonwatch in all respects, and I’ll fight anyone who says otherwise. Scared of vintage watches? Get the reissue with a co-axial movement that’s COSC certified. Elliott Brown Houlton Professional – $550 Analog watches are a thing of the past you say? All soldiers, sailors, airmen, and marines need are G-Shocks and Timex Ironman watches, you say? Well my brothers and sisters in the UK’s Special Boat ...
When we first laid eyes on G-SHOCK’s new additions to the GM-2100 line called the Utility Metal collection, we knew we’d need to call in an expert in utilitarian style. In order to help us tell the story of these three rugged watches-each with a touch of casual sophistication-we reached out to our pal Wallie Luu. Not only is Wallie a G-SHOCK aficionado, he’s a gear enthusiast with one of the most expansive collections of rugged outerwear designed for the toughest of conditions. We caught up with him at work, on the street, and on the trail where he demonstrated for us the versatility of this new collection. He also told us some great stories and imparted his words of wisdom, all while sporting the now iconic octagonal form and metal-clad design of these GM2100 standouts. We’re featuring the new G-SHOCK Utility Metal collection in the story, can you give us your first impressions? Did you find it easy to pair them with your style? All of the G-SHOCKs I’ve owned have always been pretty big, burly watches that can take the abuse I put them through, whether I’m at the shop, exploring the city, or on a trip. I really like how sleek and low profile these G-SHOCK Utilities wear, without sacrificing how robust they are. I feel like these work great as a solid, everyday watch thanks to their metal cases. I’m also really impressed with the quality of the strap. I wasn’t sure what to expect with a fabric strap on a G-SHOCK, but for me it’s an intriguing combo. I...
Worn & Wound
Since Vulcain received a new lease on life with entrepreneur and brand enthusiast Guillaume Laidet at the helm, the storied brand has not missed. By tapping into Vulcain’s deep archives and playing the hits, so to speak, many of us have thoroughly enjoyed getting reacquainted with the brand. Debuting with their most iconic watch, the Cricket, was the logical first step in relaunching Vulcain. It’s a watch that has all the name-cache with it being the first mechanical alarm watch and its historical ties to several United States presidents. Following the Cricket, Laidet and company hit us with an unexpected dive watch with the Skindiver Nautique. Once again, by essentially producing a recreation of a past reference, Vulcain released a diver with all the vintage charm you could ask for (a type of watch that every brand needs in their arsenal), packed into a tidy 38mm case. So how does Vulcain move forward from the aforementioned models? Well, with a presidential watch and a diver already in the quiver, naturally a chronograph is the next move. Continuing with what has been clearly working for the brand thus far, Vulcain recently announced the Chronographe 1970’s, a handsome chronograph and another spot-on revival from their back catalog. There is a certain magnetism and allure to the Chronographe 1970’s which I’ll try to identify as we go on. First, the dial. I applauded the typeface choice on the Skindiver Nautique during a recent On-Wrist Reaction, and I’ll do t...
Time+Tide
As you’re probably aware, the world’s biggest watch fair, Watches and Wonders, starts on Monday. Hundreds of shiny, new timepieces will be revealed from some of the biggest brands around. But after the initial hullabaloo over these new releases dies down, if you actually want to buy one of the pieces, you can often face … ContinuedThe post Tudor open Geneva pop-up store to sell latest releases from Watches and Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Field watches work particularly well as a blank slate. They are rigorously simple by design, a watch made for pure function and to simply get out of the way of your day to day life. An easily legible dial and a compact case are the only true prerequisites. From there, watch brands have a ton of latitude in how they create a field watch that feels unique to them and will please their customers. There are literally hundreds of traditional field watches to choose from, made by just about every brand you can think of, from Hamilton to Patek Philippe, but I have a soft spot for the oddball interpretations that provide a twist on the norm. The Circula ProTrail isn’t exactly avant-garde or anything, but it’s just a few degrees away from “the standard,” giving it a unique contemporary sensibility among a sea (or a field?) of similar watches that tend to cling to the past. Circula is a German brand with roots dating back to the 1950s, but was effectively relaunched in 2018 by the founder’s grandson, Cornelius Huber. What started with a series of simple German made quartz watches has become a varied collection of precision machined sports watches (for the most part), often in vibrant colors. They put a focus on manufacturing, which is evident in the ProTrail I sampled, and can be easily seen in other watches in their catalog. They’re one of the few brands, for instance, to offer a dive watch in a true super-compressor case. I had the opportunity to sample the ProTrai...
Teddy Baldassarre
Nearly every advance in watchmaking technology has been in the service of increased utility and functionality - even inventions that we now consider entirely luxurious affectations. The minute repeater, for example, was invented so a watch wearer could audibly check the time in the dark in the days before luminous treatment on dials. Even the tourbillon began its existence as a device for enhancing timekeeping accuracy, countering the effects of gravity on a pocketwatch’s movement. Thus it should come as no surprise that as the world entered the electronic era in the mid-20th century, watchmakers would attempt to harness the new technologies to improve the precision - and hence the desirability - of their products. Read on as we trace the evolution of timekeeping technology all the way up through today’s most accurate watches. Birth of the Chronometer Not long after the tracking of time migrated from giant clocks in the town square to portable devices carried in waistcoat pockets, and eventually worn on wrists (click here for a brief history of watches), the need for a standard of dependable accuracy in these mechanical timekeepers became evident. Hence the establishment of standards for which a timepiece could be deemed a "chronometer." The classical definition of a chronometer goes all the way back to the golden age of seafaring exploration in the 18th Century, when ships required the use of a highly accurate onboard clock that enabled their navigators to det...
Hodinkee
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Deployant
Louis Erard releases their new Excellence Marqueterie, featuring the works of indepedent artisan Bastien Chevalier's wood marquetry work.
Time+Tide
The biggest horological moment of the year is only days away. Beginning on March 27, Watches & Wonders Geneva 2023 will kick off – alongside a whole Geneva Watch Week that includes other smaller fairs like Time To Watches. Basically, a lot of new releases will be announced next week and we want to make … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: How to stay across all the action at Watches & Wonders with Time+Tide appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Rolex is notoriously secretive about their releases, keeping their novelties completely under lock and key until the moment the embargo lifts. Sure, people constantly put together prediction videos or claim to have leaks in social media posts. But these often turn out to be figments of the imagination rather than reality. It is quite ironic … ContinuedThe post Did Rolex just leak their own Watches & Wonders 2023 releases?!? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Gold Longines Here’s a little gem that has loads of style and bling despite its small size. The case is solid 14k yellow gold, but is only 31mm wide, so not really for those with big wrists. What it lacks in size it makes up with design and style. The bezel is two tiered, with the bottom tier having a crosshatched texture that matches the gold dial, and the upper tier has radial grooves at each hour that also serve as the hour markers. The lugs are thin and smooth for a nice contrast. The gold dial has crosshatched texture and looks to be in great shape the printed Longines logo and applied flying hourglass badge, with thin stick hands. Quite simple and elegant, while blingy at the same time. The crown is signed which is always nice to have. No movement pics but seller states it runs and keeps time. Really great looking gold dress watch for those that like a smaller watch. View auction here. Hamilton LED Calendar Watch More gold, but this time gold plated and definitely a more ‘modern’ design than the Longines above! This vintage Hamilton LED watch has a classic future 1970’s look which is what I love about these vintage LED watches. Condition is fantastic, and the wat...
Worn & Wound
Henley, Oxfordshire. Pimm’s and Regattas. The splendid River and Rowing Museum. Particularly vindictive traffic wardens. And ‘The Wing’, Bremont’s HQ. There are plenty of reasons to try to wangle an invitation to look around. Nick’s dog Pedro, for a start – he’s lovely. The coffee’s good. The building itself is remarkable. Where else do you find a regularly changing selection of classic cars in a reception area? Last time I was there it was a restored Land Rover half-ton Lightweight. And, if you’re into your military watches, there’s an entire wall of them with an example of every unit, squadron or crew model the firm has made. Some you’ll have heard of, others are, quite deliberately, not exactly household names. It’s not surprising. Bremont tend to build their watches (‘build’ seems like a better word than ‘make’ in this context) to take a knock or two. I’ve had one of their MBIIs since 2011 and, despite almost G-Shock levels of abuse, it’s never missed a beat. So even though you’re more likely to see a G or an F-91W on exercise (losing a $15 Casio in the mud is easier to stomach than a nearly $4k Bremont), there’s little doubt they’d hack the pace. Now there’s a new watch for the Armed Forces Collection – the Broadsword Recon. Bremont’s Broadsword range has been around since 2019, the year the firm signed the Armed Forces Covenant to support those who serve or have served. Practically, in the case of the Broadsword, ...
Worn & Wound
It has been awhile since we’ve checked in on Depancel, an up and coming watch brand based out of the sleepy alpine town, Annecy, France. It was their Serie-A Allure that last caught our attention last year – a dual-register automatic chronograph heavy on the automotive design cues, which for the spry brand, was their first-ever production chronograph. Since then, it seems they’ve come a long way in a relatively short time. Depancel has expanded their collection, defined their design language (primarily auto-inspired), and now they even have a showroom (in Annecy) for those keen on seeing their collection in the metal. Despite the evolution, that doesn’t mean the brand has lost touch with the watch enthusiast community or their passion for all things automotive. Their new Legend 60s chronograph encompasses everything that has made the brand successful thus far. The brand has heard a growing number of requests from Depancel collectors and enthusiasts alike to return to their racing chronograph roots. Even though they’ve done away with their online questionnaire that allows for the community to directly make suggestions as to what they’d love to see from the brand, the Legend 60s chronograph proves that they firmly still have their ear to the ground. And what better way to return to their “racing chronograph roots” than to develop a watch inspired by the Formula One racing scene in the 1960s. The Legend 60s marks another first for the Depancel, and that com...
Time+Tide
Glashütte Original’s offering mainly comes in two forms – rugged, but finely finished pieces like the SeaQ, and contemporary works of art in the likes of their Senator and Pano collections. Available in a limited edition of 50 pieces, the Glashütte Original PanoInverse Limited Edition follows the biennial release of this special edition, and falls … ContinuedThe post The Glashütte Original 2023 PanoInverse Limited Edition brings an urban cityscape to the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Founded by watchmakers Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat, Petermann Bédat made its debut with the 1967 powered by an elaborately finished movement featuring a deadbeat seconds. Now, the duo has just unveiled their next creation which is a step-up in complexity – the Reference 2941, a mono-pusher split-seconds chronograph. Presented in a 38 mm platinum case and limited to ten pieces, the 2941 follows the design language of the 1967 with a transparent dial and an emphasis on movement finishing. Initial thoughts The 2941 at a glance is a conceptually impressive release that meets the high expectations resulting from its previous release. But perhaps one may ponder over the under-dial execution of the split-seconds mechanism (as opposed to a traditional approach that puts it on the back). Undoubtedly, the finishing remains top notch. The movement sports numerous gracefully formed bridges and a notable emphasis on black-polished components. More broadly, it is uncommon to see a new chronograph movement designed from the ground up, even more so a rattrapante with an instantaneously jumping minute counter. That said, the movement architecture seems paradoxical. Part of the appeal of a finely-finished split-seconds chronograph is the intricate and layered view of the rattrapante mechanism on top of the chronograph seen through a display case back. Thus, Petermann Bedat’s approach of installing the split-seconds under the dial is questionable, particularly considering the n...
Worn & Wound
When I hear the words “Doxa Sub,” it’s hard for me to not start conjuring images in the ol’ noggin of that wide cushion, pebble-like steel case, the orange accented no-deco table splitting bezel duty with an elapsed time display, and the ever-so whimsical dial. The Sub 300 is a damn near perfect watch, in my humble opinion. But lately (over the course of two years), Doxa has given their flagship dive watch some company within their catalog by way of a couple releases that, at glance, might not resemble the Doxa you and I are used to. The brand with a storied history in the sport of diving and oceanic exploration has been doing some exploring of their own, but into different case design waters. I’m referring to their contemporary divers that use more of a conventional round case shape like the Sub 200 and the Sub 200 C-Graph. Recently, Doxa released the second coming of their Sub 200 chronograph with the Sub 200 C-Graph II. There are notable differences with the newcomer that include several models within the collection now sporting a steel bezel (as a traditional Doxa should have), a new dial finish, and smaller case proportions that amount to a more wearable, everyday diver. When the Doxa Sub 200 C-Graph was introduced in 2020, it reintroduced a chronograph into their expansive regular production diver collection. It was (and still is) a three-register chronograph that attempted to keep some of the vintage charm with its faux-patina markers. In terms of its case...
Quill & Pad
At a blind wine tasting many years ago that included a superb Petrus, for many of the tasters, including Ken Gargett, the superstar on the night, was something called Masseto, an Italian Merlot from the 1993 vintage. At the time, none of them had even heard of Masseto, let alone had any idea that an Italian Merlot might top one of the most famous wines on the planet. It was an obscure Italian Merlot back then, but all that would soon change.
SJX Watches
The long anticipated revival of Urwerk’s first model has finally arrived: the UR-102 “Reloaded” is modelled on the watch Urwerk presented at its debut Basel fair in 1997. The new UR-102 preserves the pebble-like form of the original but with enough tweaks to make it different, most notably with a larger case and revamped time display. The model makes it debut as a box set containing two UR-102s, one in titanium and the other all black. Initial thoughts I was looking forward to Urwerk’s revival of the UR-102. And I’m not disappointed with the result – except for the fact that it’s sold only as a pair. The “Reloaded” version is obviously modelled on the 1997 original, but it’s also clearly a different creation. For one, it’s larger and the time display has been redesigned. Add to that the restyled lugs and repositioned crown and you have a watch that’s very much distinct. In short, the new UR-102 is not a remake but a successful and appealing reinterpretation of the original. Leaving aside its origins, the UR-102 also has intrinsic appeal. It’s a clean, attractive design with sci-fi vibes. But the UR-102 is being sold as a pair – both identical save for the case finish – but subsequent versions will be sold individually, making them more accessible. Coming full circle At 41 mm the UR-102 “Reloaded” is noticeably larger than the 1997 original that was just 38 mm wide. The enlarged case retains the same streamlined outline that was inspired b...
Time+Tide
Since 1948, Yema has been producing reliable sports watches that come with a unique visual DNA. Best known for the Superman Heritage diver, Yema has been producing many types of chronographs over the past few decades. From Meca-Quartz to full automatic, the French brand releases a new collection every year, if not more often. Each … ContinuedThe post The new Yema Rallye 5 Turbo goes deep into French car racing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
We here at Worn & Wound are extremely excited to be attending, once again, Watches & Wonders in Geneva. It’s perhaps the biggest watch event of the year and a first for Kat Shoulders, our media production manager. Flying internationally can be a challenging and stressful time, but Kat has a pretty darn good kit to get her through a long day of flying. From the perfect bag, a useful watch, and a few interesting gadgets, she takes us through what she’ll be carrying on her flight! This episode is made possible by our friends at Camera West. They have graciously lent Kat the new Panasonic LUMIX S5II to take with her on the trip. Camera West carries many different camera options from Leica, Fujifilm, Sony, and more, but they actually recommended the S5 II for her Watches And Wonders adventure over the other options on the market with the biggest feature being the L-mount alliance making it compatible with Sigma, Leica, and other Panasonic lenses. Get all the details on Kat’s packing style and her professional tools, along with her very own gear hacks and tricks of the trade. We hope that Time to Pack will be that kind of content you didn’t even know you needed-watch-based content that delves into travel gear and packing in rich and robust ways. Enjoy! Learn more about Camera West and the Panasonic LUMIX S5II. The post Time to Pack Episode 2: My Watches & Wonders Airplane Travel Kit appeared first on Worn & Wound.
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