Hodinkee
Best of Watchville: Watch Collecting Lifestyle Goes Inside The AP Factory And The Making Of A Royal Oak
An inside look at the modern manufacture of a watch icon.
Results for The Heuer Carrera (1963)
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Time+Tide
The liquid depth of Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin with onyx dial is worth travelling to Japan for
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is one of the most well-known watches in the world, but there are some references within the family that remain relatively undiscovered. While they are extremely rare, Royal Oaks with stone dials are as beautiful as you would imagine from the Le Brassus-based brand, with lapis lazuli and various other … ContinuedThe post The liquid depth of Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin with onyx dial is worth travelling to Japan for appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Review: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Hybris Artistica – Master Gyrotourbillon I
We take a look at a rare and breathtaking Hybris Artistica iteration of the iconic Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Gyrotourbillon I.
Revolution
The “Tōgè Special Edition” Exclusive Collaboration Between Grand Seiko and The Watches of Switzerland Group
A timepiece that celebrates the combined legacies of Grand Seiko and the Watche of Switzerland Group.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Selfwinding 34 mm
The new quartet of Royal Oak models marks a first for Audemars Piguet – the Royal Oak Selfwinding 34 mm combines a 34 mm case with an automatic calibre supplied by movement specialist Vaucher. An addition to the line that is not meant to replace any existing model, the new 34 mm watch is now the smallest mechanical Royal Oak for ladies, with the smallest, 33 mm model being quartz, and the next-largest automatic having a 37 mm case. Initial thoughts The new watch fills a gap in the diverse Royal Oak line-up – a watch compact enough for ladies but with a mechanical movement. While the new 34 mm model is not explicitly described as a women’s watch, it is in all but name, as Audemars Piguet already has a 37 mm model as the medium-sized men’s Royal Oak. That said, the proportions of the 34 mm case remind me of the Royal Oak ref. 4100 of the 1970s and 1980s, which was then a large-sized men’s watch and 36 mm in diameter, not too much larger than the new model. By that benchmark, the new 34 mm model should not be a ladies’ watch per se, and could appeal to men who prefer a smaller case size. But for the broader market, it is a ladies’ watch, and I can see its appeal. Importantly, it has a mechanical movement – long absent for the ladies’ Royal Oak – and the versions with the diamond-set bezels offer a bit of bling to go along with the iconic design. So it should attract a new female customer who has always wanted a Royal Oak, but was savvy enough to wait fo...
Video
On The Block: Inside The Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XI With Aurel Bacs
SJX Watches
In-Depth: The Life Behind the Deadbeat Seconds
Watchmaking combines technical achievement and aesthetic expression, and sometimes the two are inextricably linked. In a handful of instances, the technical achievement transforms the artistic value, as in the jumping seconds. The complication is perhaps the most abrupt expression of time. Is there any value in having a mechanical jumping seconds? In exploring that, we first have to understand how the seconds as a unit of time came to be. Time in antiquity In today’s world where no one bats an eyelid when a satellite is sent into orbit, time and space are perceived to be intimately linked as one. Before Einstein hit upon the theory of relativity, the link between space and time was nebulous, but the definition of time was well established. For the ancient Egyptians, daytime was based on the apparent movement of the Sun, and the night sky was segmented into smaller divisions based on the position and motion of stars. Over the subsequent millennia, the Sumerians and Babylonians further refined the time measurement to better account for stellar motion. The Babylonians, inspired by the Egyptians, approximated the movement of the Sun’s apparent revolution into 360 divisions, due to the number of days required for the Sun to trace its path on the ecliptic and their predilection for a base-60 (or sexagesimal) system. This is also the origin of 360 degrees required for a complete revolution, which was explained by Malcolm Correll in the volume 15 of scientific journal The Phy...
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: 5 almost instantly sold out collaborations that have consolidated the cult of Unimatic
Editor’s note: There are more micro and independent watchmakers out there than you could possibly ever discover in one lifetime – literally thousands upon thousands of different brands, all vying for your hard-earned. Ascertaining which makers are the successful ones is pretty simple. If they’ve been established for anything more than two years and they’re still … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: 5 almost instantly sold out collaborations that have consolidated the cult of Unimatic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Sunday Rewind: The Patek Philippe 175th Anniversary Collection (Five Years Later)
A birthday party of the highest order.
Time+Tide
What Sealed The Deal: Daniel’s Zenith Chronomaster El Primero 45mm
Editor’s note: For many watch enthusiasts out there, including me, one of the biggest problems we can come across is timepieces that are just too… big. I’ll freely admit it: I’ve got dainty wrists, and yes, it’s a problem. Luckily, though, watchmakers are catching on that there are more than a few individuals like me … ContinuedThe post What Sealed The Deal: Daniel’s Zenith Chronomaster El Primero 45mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Best of Watchville: Monochrome Goes (Very) Deep On The CODE 11.59 Chronograph
A year after the launch of the collection, Monochrome deciphers the Code.
Video
The Best Sports Watches Under $30,000. (JLC, Breguet, Cartier)
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Quantième In 41mm
The Grande Seconde reaches for the Goldilocks zone.
Revolution
Introducing the Parmigiani Toric Tourbillon Slate
Celebrating the digital Watches & Wonders launch, Parmigiani is introducing the Toric Tourbillon Slate, which celebrates both Michel Parmigiani and the FHH’s digital platform.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Inspiration and Creation of the Grand Seiko Thin Dress Series
Earlier this year, I paid a visit to Seiko’s headquarters in Ginza, Tokyo. I was there for two reasons. One was to present my Ideal Watch Size Survey to their design, product and development teams. The other was to find out more about a particular Grand Seiko I had recently purchased, the SBGZ001. Launched in 2019 to celebrate the Spring Drive’s 20th Anniversary, the SBGZ001 is an extraordinarily finished version of the Grand Seiko Thin Dress Series from the Elegance collection. What started as a few questions from a collector ended up being a dive into how a significant new line of watches at Grand Seiko was born. In the interest of full disclosure: The Armoury, which I own, has been a retailer of Grand Seiko in Hong Kong for about six years now. I have been collecting Grand Seiko for about nine years. Neither the SBGZ001 nor the SBGY003 detailed in this article are available for sale at the store. But they are special so I wanted to delve further into their creation. The Credor Eichi I, 2013 First some background. Back in 2013, I bought a Credor Eichi I, a well-known watch in certain circles for its exceptional finishing. It was made in the Micro Artist Studio (MAS), a division within the Seiko-Epson Shiojiri plant where all the cutting-edge high horology – namely Spring Drive movements – is designed and made. That includes things like the Credor Minute Repeater, the Grand Seiko 8 Day Power Reserve and the Credor Eichi II. I toured the facility in 2014 and visite...
Revolution
F.P. Journe Revamps the Quantième Perpétuel for 2020
Gone is the steel ring, F.P. Journe’s perpetual calendar now comes with a silver dial and applied gold numerals.
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Hemsworth’s wrist in Extraction proves that the world’s biggest bad-asses wear…
As the world begins to re-emerge from lockdown, so does our awareness of the days. Where in past weeks, Friday has come and gone in a haze of homeschooling and housebound weekends that blur into weekdays, suddenly there’s an ever-so-slight sense of TGIF. And that’s a pretty sweet feeling for us. So, as we do … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Hemsworth’s wrist in Extraction proves that the world’s biggest bad-asses wear… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
Is the new 2021 Tudor Black Bay Chrono the perfect chronograph?
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Baltic Aquascaphe Bronze (Live Pics & Pricing)
The Aquascaphe goes bronze and is ready to age gracefully.
SJX Watches
Parmigiani Fleurier Introduces the Toric Tourbillon Red Gold Slate
The very first case designed by Michel Parmigiani when he founded his eponymous brand, the elegant Toric is now primarily used for haute horlogerie watches. The latest to join the line up is the Toric Tourbillon Red Gold Slate, an extra-thin wristwatch with a flying tourbillon. Initial thoughts Though Parmigiani has tried its hand at contemporary case designs, its true strength is still classical style that references Breguet and other past century greats that Mr Parmigiani is familiar with thanks to his background in watch restoration. So it is with the Toric Tourbillon. Despite being relatively simple in style, the watch is immediately recognisable as a Parmigiani. It has a strongly balanced aesthetic between the guilloché dial, knurled bezel and flying tourbillon. But the prominent “Tourbillon 60 Secondes” label on the dial detracts from the clean style of the dial. Also, the 42.8mm case, though slim, might be a point of contention as it is on the large side for a slightly formal watch. Styling aside, Parmigiani quality is impeccable, for both the internal and external components. In that respect, there’s little to criticise. Toric tradition The very first watch designed by Mr Parmigiani when he launched his brand in 1996 was the Toric Memory Time, a slim, dual time zone watch. Though slightly tweaked, the current Toric case sticks closely to the design of the original, particularly with the prominent knurled bezel that is decorated by a hand-operated machine...
Time+Tide
From Chris Hemsworth in Extraction to American Sniper, why G-Shocks are the ultimate bad-ass watches
“The least believable part of Extraction is that at no point do any of the 183 people that Chris Hemsworth kills mention how ridiculously good looking he is…” That’s what Netflix said in a recent tweet about their new balls-to-the-wall action extravaganza that’s set to become their biggest movie ever (90 million households watched the … ContinuedThe post From Chris Hemsworth in Extraction to American Sniper, why G-Shocks are the ultimate bad-ass watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Tondagraphe Rose Gold Slate
A high complication from the best-kept secret in Swiss watchmaking.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Baltic Aquascaphe Bronze
As far as micro brands go, Baltic is one of the most popular. We got our own taste of the hype around this brand during this year’s Time+Tide “Watch & Act” Auction, when the founder Etienne donated a prototype Aquascaphe to the cause. We knew it had been a successfully released debut dive watch from … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Baltic Aquascaphe Bronze appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
IN-DEPTH - The Frederique Constant Slimline Monolithic Manufacture, with Groundbreaking Oscillator
Revolution
Introducing the MB&F; + L’Epee 1839 Starfleet Explorer
MB&F; and L’Epee 1839 partner once more to introduce a smaller variation of their 2014 StarfleetMachine with the new Starfleet Explorer
Hodinkee
Introducing: The MB&F; + L'Epée 1839 Starfleet Explorer
A downsized spin on the brand's out-of-this-world desk clock.
Time+Tide
The New Blacklist Part 2: best of the new all-black watches from $315…
To recap: Zenith’s latest release, the uber stealthy Chronomaster Revival ‘Shadow’, has had us thinking about all the other great all-black timepieces that have been released in recent memory. The blacklist is an ever updating thing. So, we ran through some of our favourite models from the last little while. And after going through the … ContinuedThe post The New Blacklist Part 2: best of the new all-black watches from $315… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Introduces the Quantième Perpétuel with Gold Numerals
Introduced in 2013, the original Quantième Perpétuel was a concise perpetual calendar with useful features, as well as a peculiar, egg-shaped steel ring around the centre of the dial. Now the design has been refined – but all functionality retained – to create the new F.P. Journe Quantième Perpétuel with gold numerals. And though this was officially announced only recently, the watch has already been available at boutiques for several months. Initial thoughts Compared to the earlier F.P. Journe calendar watches, the Quantième Perpétuel was a big improvement with its highly legible display and improved user friendliness. But the first generation dial was odd because of the steel ring around the centre. That’s been changed with the new model, and the improvement is substantial. The new dial appeals because it doesn’t try too hard to be different. Instead, it differentiates itself in more subtle ways. And the boutique-only blue-dial version is unusual, which is a plus if you’re looking for something different. F.P. Journe has rarely used matte, dark blue dials on standard-production watches; historically only limited editions and custom watches had such dials. Silver and gold Borrowing the clous de Paris engine-turned centre from the Chronometre Souverain, the dial is made of solid silver, while the applied numerals and calendar window frames are solid gold. The addition of gold frames for the calendar do make the positions of the windows more obvious, whic...
Hodinkee
Remembering Rolex Technical Director René Besson, 'The Father Of The Daytona'
"The Father of the Daytona Chronograph" has passed away at 87 years old.
Video