Deployant
Armchair Picks: Kunal Khemka’s 3 of the best from Watches & Wonders 2023
Our contributor, Kunal makes his top 3 picks from the watches revealed during last week's Watches & Wonders. From Rolex, Chopard and JLC.
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Deployant
Our contributor, Kunal makes his top 3 picks from the watches revealed during last week's Watches & Wonders. From Rolex, Chopard and JLC.
SJX Watches
At Watches & Wonders 2023, Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) is once again focusing on the Reverso, launching several new models along with new dial for existing references. The most notable debut is certainly the Reverso Tribute Chronograph, which offers a minimalist primary time display on one side and a partially open-worked chronograph on the other. This new model pays tribute to the Reverso Chronographe Retrograde of 1996, perhaps one of the best watches of that decade and one that helped solidify JLC’s status as a master of complications. The Reverso Tribute Chronograph reimagines the original for a new generation of collectors while being different enough to be its own watch. The reverse face with the chronograph as well as additional time display Initial thoughts On its face (no pun intended), the Reverso Tribute Chronograph is good value, offering a novel and compact chronograph movement with classic but unusual aesthetics thanks to its two faces. A key different between this and the original is the double-sided time display (that shows the same time on both faces). Initially, I was disappointed by the addition of a time display on the chronograph side of the watch. In my view, part of the charm of the original was the single-minded focus of each side. But upon reflection I’ve come to view this change as an upgrade, since it now enables the user to wear the chronograph side up as a primary time display when desired. This practicality differentiates the Tribute from the o...
Worn & Wound
And now, readers, we’ve come to that portion of our Watches & Wonders coverage that I know at least two of you have been anxiously anticipating, Yes, it’s now an annual tradition I guess, where I will wax rhapsodically about a mind bending Hublot novelty fit for a modern version of an 18th century French king. I can’t really think of a better way to describe the Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Blue Sapphire than to contextualize it with something commonly understood to be shorthand for over-the-top indulgence, but that’s what this watch is all about, in the best possible way. It’s a huge swing, which is exactly what I like to see from brands at Watches & Wonders. If I’m going to fly across an ocean and deal with travel delays at every step, I’d like to see things that I can only see in a presentation in the back of one of those enormous booths. Last year I wrote about the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Purple Sapphire and characterized it as one of the best watches of last year’s Watches & Wonders because it succeeded at being compelling from a watchmaking perspective while also being completely outlandish in a way that Hublot is uniquely great at. It marked a point in my own appreciation for the brand where they rose above the level of a mere curiosity and reached a point where, in my opinion, they are deserving of the respect given to any other serious innovator in contemporary watchmaking. This year they’re back with a sequel of sorts to last ye...
Time+Tide
Dive watches are more popular than ever, especially compressor divers. These ubiquitous watches herald from a time when horological engineering was at its peak, and when man’s explorative mind had no limits. Compressor divers were built to withstand submersion whilst remaining relatively thin and were therefore comfortable to wear. This was made possible by the … ContinuedThe post Sherpa recreates the original EPSA Super Compressor case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Grand Seiko SBGE295 takes the Mt. Motaka dial in a verdant direction with a silvery-green finish The asymmetrical bi-colour bezel is luminous in its white section, and is covered with a sapphire insert The 44mm case is 200m water resistant, and is powered by the 9R66 Spring Drive movement The term ‘forest green’ has … ContinuedThe post The Grand Seiko SBGE295 “Mt. Hotaka Peaks” GMT is inspired by lush mountain woods appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Here are the best solar watches that we've ever reviewed, representing affordability, dependability, and accuracy.
Time+Tide
The new Grand Seiko Heritage Collection features a 44GS case in Ever-Brilliant Steel. The material boasts a whiter lustre and better corrosion resistance than regular steel. The “Mt. Iwate” dial is available in silver, black, or blue across three-handed or GMT models. Lovers of Grand Seiko are most often won over by a myriad of … ContinuedThe post The Grand Seiko Heritage Collection in Ever-Brilliant Steel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
At the 2016 World Whiskies Awards, Teeling Whiskey was awarded “World’s Best Irish Single Malt” and then in 2019 “World’s Best Single Malt.” Ken Gargett takes a look at (and a few drams of) a couple of the company's wonderful whiskeys and explains what makes them so exceptional.
Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Road & Track New Titanium Road Bike By Mosaic: RT1-ITR Via Mosaic Cycles We love titanium watches (well most of us). And when we see the durable and lightweight material used in other EDC gear and gadgets, we love that too. Mosaic Cycles, known for their titanium bespoke road bikes using modern tubing designs, recently announced the RT1-ITR. This updated version of their flagship RT-1 is re-imagined with a 35mm tire clearance which provides an ideal balance between performance, traction and comfort. Like all Mosaic titanium models, the RT1-ITR uses a double-butted titanium tubing system that can be customized to the rider’s fit requirements, ride-preferences and build configurations. Via Mosaic Cycles That’s just the tech-y information. The Mosaic RT1-ITR is a mean looking thing. The drop bars and thicker tire system add an aggressiveness to the design, while the titanium sheen balanced by the brown tire accents make this entire package on two-wheels everyday eye candy for the owner and for those who happen to see this thing whizzing by. All-Bull: Lamborghini ...
SJX Watches
Having covered the notable from independent watchmaking and complications at Sotheby’s Hong Kong auction on April 5, we turn to timepieces that are all about artisanal crafts, ranging from cloisonné and marquetry. Amongst the highlight is a Patek Philippe Dome Clock depicting the African savannah in cloisonné and another is the Cartier Tortue ref. 2496 with the jeweller’s signature panther motif. Important Watches I takes place on April 5, 2023. Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be accessed here. Lot 2101: Cartier Tortue LM Panthere This wristwatch two enduring elements of Cartier design, a form case and the panther motif. It’s a large-size Tortue – French for “turtle” – with a panther on the dial in champleve enamel. The large variant of the Tortue (instead of the oversized “XL”), this measures 34 mm in diameter, giving the dial ample real estate for the panther. The panther’s visage is executed in champlevé, where the dial base is first engraved with the motif before being painted and fired. This is powered by the cal. 430 MC, an ultra-thin manual mechanical movement that is actually the Piaget cal. 430P. Accompanied by its box and papers, this has an estimate of HK$200,000-300,000, or about US$25,000-38,200. You can find out more in the catalogue. Lot 2131: Audemars Piguet “Rolls Royce Phantom II” Before becoming synonyms with the Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet (AP) produced a diversity of elaborately decorated wrist- and pocket watc...
SJX Watches
Ever since Rolex discreetly revealed the one-off Yacht-Master in titanium made for Olympic sailor Sir Ben Ainslie, enthusiasts have been waiting for the commercially-available equivalent (which got all the more likely after the release of the Rolex Deepsea Challenge last year). And now Rolex has finally done it with the Yacht-Master 42 in RLX titanium. Similar to Sir Ben’s watch but with the addition of a date and matching titanium bracelet, the Yacht-Master 42 is perhaps the most restrained sports watch in the current Rolex catalogue. Initial thoughts Being a long-time fan of the Yacht-Master line, I’m glad to see this has finally arrived. Though large in size, it’s lighter and consequently more wearable. The muted colours and finish give it a no-fuss, contemporary look that sets it apart from the usual sports Rolex, but it retains the recognisable Yacht-Master style with its relief bezel. Perhaps the recognisable look is the only aspect to critique: the watch is little changed in terms of design from past Yacht-Master models (which were mostly in precious metals). The option of a rubber strap as seen on Sir Ben’s watch, for instance, would have given the Yacht-Master collection some variety. At CHF13,400, the Yacht-Master 42 is priced reasonably relative to other Rolex sports models. However, compared to the all-titanium offerings from Tudor – the Tudor Pelagos 39 is very, very similar – this is less of a value proposition, but it is still a Rolex. A mo...
Time+Tide
The new Oyster Perpetual Celebration is proof that the crown knows how to party Bubbly dials take on the colours of Stella-inspired OPs that sky-rocketed in popularity over the last few years Available in 31, 36 and 41 millimetre case sizes Rolex clearly tried to do their best to please as many of their fans … ContinuedThe post The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Celebration has a bubbly personality appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Join the CEO of Ulysse Nardin, Patrick Pruniaux, and the Founder of Revolution, Wei Koh, as they discuss how the Freak changed watchmaking history and how its latest iteration, the Freak ONE, continues to champion irreverent horology. The Freak by Ulysse Nardin was originally invented by Ludwig Oechslin in 2001. It was truly a freak […]
Worn & Wound
Well folks, it’s been a hectic Watches & Wonders. So hectic, in fact, that we missed the last few days of recaps. But the show has ended (public days start tomorrow, but we head back to the States early in the AM) and we’ve all taken a deep breath and thought about this back half of the week. This isn’t a final summation of our thoughts on the show, but our immediate reactions as it winds down in real time. Thanks for following along with us as we’ve reported from Geneva – we can’t wait to tell you more about what we saw. Zach Kazan The back half of Watches & Wonders has been essentially nonstop for all of us. We took a divide and conquer approach, splitting up to cover the most ground, and as a result will have tons of great watches to tell you about over the coming weeks. For me, the final day of Watches & Wonders was possibly the best single day of the show. Highlight number one: Hublot. This was perhaps my most anticipated meeting, because it unexpectedly turned out to be my favorite meeting of last year. The vibe when the Hublot novelties is presented is so markedly different from every other presentation, it’s hard not to notice. It’s lowkey and genuinely a lot of fun, and the watches, for me, have a Wow Factor that few brands can match. The most noteworthy piece is one I’ll be writing more about soon, the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic in blue sapphire, with a sapphire bracelet. It’s a technical marvel on a number of levels, and is one of those ...
Worn & Wound
Rolex is always the talk of Watches & Wonders, but this year the conversation focused on an unlikely watch: an Oyster Perpetual with a “Celebration Dial,” a colorful and playful creation that seems very, well, unlike Rolex? But is it, really? It garnered a lot of attention, was immediately memed, and generated some of the most fiery takes of the show. The Worn & Wound editorial team, as you’d expect, has thoughts, so we weigh in on the new Oyster Perpetual, and a similarly colorful and offbeat Day-Date, below. Zach Kazan No matter how hard brands try to prevent them, leaks of new releases are inevitable. It happened again this year with Rolex, the biggest brand of all. And while we only had hastily shared Google search results to go off of, and no actual specs or even basic information about the watches themselves, the shuttle ride to Palexpo on Day 1 was dominated by talk of gumballs. The so-called “Celebration Dial” Oyster Perpetuals, along with the spiritually related “Jigsaw” Day-Date, are as whimsical as we’ve seen Rolex in recent years. Lefty GMT aside, this isn’t a brand known for its sense of humor. So a dial filled with colorful circles (51 is the official tally) that correspond with the colors of the most recent Oyster Perpetual refresh from about 3 years ago is bound to generate the hottest of takes. What I want to know from the haters is this: who decided Rolex can’t have fun? I guess if your version of Rolex is “luxury tool watches”...
Revolution
Attendees of the Watches and Wonders 2023 were mesmerized by the out-of-this-world Jacob & Co. Astronomia Revolution. Within a 47mm gold case, a satellite makes a revolution precisely every 60 seconds. Its three arms carry a ruby that makes a revolution on its own axis every 15 seconds, a Jacob & Co. triple axis tourbillon […]
Episode 4 was delayed due to an evening event that Hodinkee hosted with Lucid Automotive in Geneva but I got Nora, Danny, and Tony on a mic before we parted ways after the show. We get into the recent goodies from Cartier, new Alpine Eagle and LUC models from Chopard, and a whole lot more.
Revolution
At Watches and Wonders 2023, Jeremiah Chan, Deputy Digital Editor of Revolution, got his hands on an Alpina Extreme Regulator Automatic, which now comes with an integrated bracelet and blue dial. He discussed this cool novelty with the Brand Director of Alpina, Oliver van Lanschot. Alpina has also released an 888-piece limited edition black dial […]
Hodinkee
The standouts are the platinum with a display caseback and the new stainless steel, but Rolex now has more than 30 models in the Daytona line. Here's what you need to know.
Hodinkee
With multiple treatments to chose from, Louis Cartier's iconic watch finally joins the Privé collection. And check out those bracelets!
Revolution
Jean-Marie Schaller strove for years to find out more about the legendary watchmaker Louis Moinet, who had very little surviving documentation about him. He acquired the Louis Moinet brand with its trademarks in 2000, and eventually discovered that Louis Moinet was the inventor of the chronograph and of high frequency watches. At Watches and Wonders […]
Time+Tide
Whenever a new watch is introduced, there’s usually an aspect of the design that jumps out, whether it’s a stunning dial, unique case architecture, or a gorgeous movement. And sometimes, you find all three in one watch. The new Speake-Marin Ripples Date is that watch. This release remixes the multi-angled razzle-dazzle that you find in … ContinuedThe post Speake-Marin introduces a new date complication to their breathtaking Ripples collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
It's gone from 36mm to 39mm to 36mm…and now all the way up to 40.
Worn & Wound
Change is hard, as they say. Particularly when the thing that requires it, wasn’t exactly broken in the first place. Rolex has found themselves in a near impossible situation of updating the near universally lauded 1165XX generation of the Daytona. A watch that’s recently found itself in a position it never really asked to be in, serving as the barometer of the second hand watch market and subsequently the subject of ire to many lamenting availability issues writ large at boutiques the world over. The watch itself, though? When considered at its initial MSRP upon introduction in 2016, which was $12,400 (or even its MSRP last year, which was $13,500), is pretty awesome. Not without fault, certainly, but a mighty fine chronograph to be sure and a total sweetheart on the wrist. But of course, the Daytona was a rare bird to score at retail pricing, and judging it at aftermarket prices was a far murkier proposition. Still, there’s no doubting that this watch tapped into something deep, serving as the veritable poster child of the meteoric rise of the hype watch, and for good reason: it’s a great all around watch sitting on a load of heritage that includes some of the coolest figures of the past 50 years helping to inadvertently build the watch’s lore to unhealthy levels in today’s climate. While things have mercifully cooled off over the past 12 months, this is still largely the context in which Rolex is tasked with creating a new generation of Daytona, which they...
Worn & Wound
There seem to be two strategies for product presentations at Watches & Wonders. The first, and more common, is to barrage members of the press with watch, after watch, after watch. Too many, sometimes, to even begin to comprehend the releases that really stand out. The other strategy, which is less common but might be growing in popularity, is to focus on a single watch, and really dive into it in great detail. That’s the approach taken by Ulysse Nardin this year with the Freak ONE, a new entry into the Freak ecosystem that sits somewhere between the Freak X, made for the most casual possible Freak-curious customer (I mean, it has a crown, it’s practically a normal watch), and the absolutely ludicrous Freak S, the pinnacle of Freak design and the most complicated watch Ulysse Nardin has made on the platform in its 20+ year history. History is at the center of the conversation with respect to the new Freak ONE. It’s a tribute, in some subtle ways, to the very first Freak, which Ulysee Nardin had on hand at the fair for the sake of comparison. Accents of gold in the Freak ONE are the most obvious connection besides general layout, common to all Freaks. But the gold here is perhaps more than just an “accent,” as we get not just a gold bezel (used for setting the time) but a solid gold movement on display at the center of the piece. The visible movement is very much the key to Freak, as it rotates around the dial (which isn’t really a “dial” in the traditiona...
Time+Tide
The Patek Philippe 4997/200R Calatrava brings a vibrant purple dial into their ladies’ Calatrava catalogue The dial is made up of over 50 layers of lacquer on an embossed dial The Calibre 240 is visible from the sapphire display caseback, and is beautifully finished Patek Philippe have been taking design risks for decades, but there’s … ContinuedThe post Patek Philippe takes design risks with the Calatrava 4997/200R appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Patek Philippe 5531G Grand Complications pays tribute to their Geneva home The Grand Feu cloisonné section of the dial depicts a steamship from the Belle Époque fleet that has been cruising Lake Geneva for over a century The calibre R 27 HU is equipped with world time and minute repeater complications Technical mastery is … ContinuedThe post Cloisonné mastery of the Patek Philippe 5531G Grand Complications appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Join CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier Guido Terreni, Revolution Founder Wei Koh and Revolution Editor-at-Large Eleonor Picciotto, as they experience Parmigiani Fleurier’s enthralling new timepieces. Very quickly, the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF has become a highly sought-after collection ever since its debut in 2021. First things first, Guido, Wei and Eleonor explore the ground-breaking Tonda PF […]
Deployant
Patek Philippe presents the Ref. 5224R-001, a new Calatrava model featuring an original, 24-hour, central display of local and home time.
Revolution
Oliver Ebstein, CEO of Chronoswiss, presents his ravishing Watches and Wonders 2023 novelties to Wei Koh, Founder of Revolution. Chronoswiss timepieces making their debut at this preeminent watch fair include the Open Gear Paraiba, inspired by the jungles of Brazil; the 18K gold Space Timer Jupiter Gold; and the Open Gear ReSec Aurora, inspired by […]
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