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Worn & Wound
Fears and Christopher Ward Collaborate for the First Limited Edition from the British Watch and Clock Makers Alliance
We’ve covered the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers a few times since it was founded in 2020. We’ve had Christopher Ward’s Mike France and Roger Smith on our podcast to discuss the origins of the trade group, and we devoted a panel at last year’s Windup Watch Fair in New York City to the coming “British Invasion” of watch brands, which the Alliance is a big part of. Mostly, though, we’ve just seen British brands have a real moment over the last several years, and two of our favorites have collaborated on the first watch released by the Alliance. The all new Fears Christopher Ward: Alliance 01 takes a slice of what we love about both brands and combines it into a very limited watch that will only be available to Alliance Club members. It’s worth pointing out from the outset that this watch represents a big part of what the Alliance set out to do upon its founding, which is to foster collaboration between British watchmaking companies. Sharing resources and forging partnerships across the Alliance’s 77 trade members is very much the goal of the organization, and this new watch reflects that in a unique and highly tangible way. The Alliance 01 is notable for the way it balances the aesthetic language that Fears has established over this most recent period in their history with the technical know-how of Christopher Ward. The stainless steel case is bespoke, made specifically for this project, but will immediately make Fears fans think of the cush...
Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith El Primero Guide
The Zenith El Primero, found today in watches throughout Zenith’s collection, from the Chronomaster to the Defy to the Pilot, is arguably the watch world’s most famous movement - more widely known, in fact, than some of the watch models to whom it has given life during its half-century-plus of existence. The reasons for its renown are several, from the technical revolution it represented at its origin to the legendary role it played in the post-Quartz Crisis revival of the mechanical watch. Here we examine what made the El Primero so special in the first place and introduce you to some modern watches that demonstrate how it is still evolving and improving in the 21st century. A FOUNDATION OF PRECISION Watchmaker Georges Favre-Jacot was a mere 22 years of age when he founded the atelier that would become Zenith in Le Locle, Switzerland in 1865. Favre-Jacot, a contemporary of Swiss modern architecture pioneer le Corbusier, took his own pioneering approach to making watches, becoming one of the first to bring the various horological disciplines under one roof as opposed to the more common établissage system that most watchmakers used at the time, which had different parts made in different small workshops before being delivered to another workshop for assembly into a finished watch, Georges Favre-Jacot & co. became Zenith in 1911, the company taking its new name from a top-of-the-line movement it created that won a Grand Prix for precision at the 1900 Paris World’s F...
Quill & Pad
No Secret: The Journe Society Chronometer From F.P. Journe - Repise
While these days community building in the enthusiast realm seems increasingly the domain of brand-agnostic organizations, there remain old-school organizations whose members are devoted to the watches of a single maker. One such example is the Journe Society, a small, low-profile group of enthusiast collectors. GaryG sheds some light on the group and its specially commissioned group watch.
SJX Watches
Fears and Christopher Ward Team Up for the Alliance 01
English independent watchmakers Fears and Christopher Ward have teamed up to create a new take on the jump hour complication with the Alliance 01. A collaborative effort that plays to the strengths of each brand, the Alliance 01 was made expressly for the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers, a trade body for horologists in the United Kingdom. It combines the minimalist, vintage-inspired aesthetic espoused by Fears with the affordable complications of Christopher Ward. Initial thoughts I was intrigued when I learned Christopher Ward was teaming up with Fears. At first glance, the Alliance 01 looks like another version of the Brunswick, one of Fears’ signature models since the brand’s revival six years ago. But it is best described as Fears watch containing a Christopher Ward movement. It smartly combines each brand’s strengths – Fears’ vintage-inspired styling and Christopher Ward’s accessibly-priced, simple complications. Despite the resemblance to Fears’ other models, the Alliance 01 is appreciably different from anything Fears has done to date. But it still has the retro elegance typical of Fears, which actually makes the watch look simpler, despite the added complication. Though the design is elegant, the Alliance 01 is chunky, especially for a watch of this style. With dimensions comparable to a Rolex Daytona, the case height of just under 13 mm mean it will sit thickly on the wrist. If there were a bone to pick with the watch, it would be the lack...
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Credor, Gerald Charles and Hermès releases finish up the week
Amid the routine scheduling throughout the week, surprisingly brands are still wasting no time and presenting novelties right away at the beginning of 2023. So here are three releases you may have missed this week that you may now want to check out. Art Piece Series: Credor CBY997 Limited Edition Black lacquer dial created by … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Credor, Gerald Charles and Hermès releases finish up the week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Unveiling Jacob & Co: The Epic X & Epic X Chrono
We are starting a brand new series to take a peek behind the curtain of the watch brand that has probably the most maximalist design language in the entire Swiss watch industry, Jacob & Co. Beyond the strikingly luxurious presentation of its watches, each product family is underpinned by highly technical competencies that have elevated […]
Worn & Wound
New Partner, Same Dance: Rowing Blazers Joins Zodiac to Celebrate Iconic Paris Watering Hole
With just two collaborative pieces in the past two years, Rowing Blazers has made some serious noise in the watch space. Their taste for playful colors and bold patterns combined with their use of various fabric textures across different styles not limited to streetwear, “prep,” and athletic-inspired apparel are displayed front and center in both of their Seiko collaborations. With author, designer, and Rowing Blazers founder Jack Carlson at the helm, and the horological experience of Eric Wind, it was only going to be a matter of time until the brand expanded their sights onto new horizons, and new watch brands to collaborate with. The new Rowing Blazers x Zodiac Harry’s Bar Super Sea Wolf is the latest to come from the American apparel brand and features an ongoing collaboration with their favorite watering-hole. One look at the Rowing Blazers catalog will tell you that the brand is not shy going heavy on the bright colors. And you know who else isn’t shy about using color? Zodiac. Naturally this collaborative piece uses a vibrant sunburst green dial reminiscent of a mix of green liqueurs. An appropriate color choice considering this collaboration includes Harry’s Bar, the oldest cocktail bar in Europe. This establishment has served libations to the likes of Ernest Hemingway, Daft Punk, and even makes a cameo in Ian Fleming’s James Bond novel “From a View to Kill.” With so much history that has taken place behind those doors, one would wonder what it woul...
![[VIDEO] How We Travel With Watches](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2022/08/Tudor-BB-Pro-vs-Rolex-1655_0806.jpg)
Worn & Wound
[VIDEO] How We Travel With Watches
Traveling with your watch offers the perfect opportunity to bond with it in ways not possible in your normal day to day routine. It might even give you the chance to use some of those complications you’re always telling people about. But beyond that, the hussle bussle of the airport and landing in a different time zone allow you the opportunity to appreciate your watch in a different light. Sometimes the best travel companions aren’t “travel” watches at all, but rather watches that are easy to adjust on the go, and have the broadest range within your wardrobe. This leads to some rather unexpected watches being well suited for the role of travel watch. In this video, Blake Buettner and Thomas Calara discuss what they look for in a good travel watch, with a selection of watches from their own collections that often find themselves on the go. We’re also incorporating a good candidate from Oris, a new Diver 65 with a 12 hour bezel. All this in service of wearing our watches more often, and traveling with fewer rolls and pouches in tow. And, of course, actually using our watches. This is a topic we’ll visit in an upcoming podcast, but we’d love to hear your thoughts so jump into the video above and leave a comment on YouTube or in the comment section below. If you make the jump over to YouTube, be sure to give our channel a follow, we’ve got plenty of new video content in the works, from reviews to reactions, you’ll find it all there. The post [VIDEO] How We...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Junghans Meister fein Automatic Edition Erhard
Junghans’ founder Erhard Jungans was born on January 1st, 200 years ago. The German watchmmaker was at one point the largest clock manufacturer in the world. This watch marries their classical and Bauhaus styles. Junghans is a name that seems to live in a watch fan’s collective consciousness, even if you haven’t seen many of … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Junghans Meister fein Automatic Edition Erhard appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces the Prospex Speedtimer Chronograph SRQ045
While Seiko was one of the first watchmakers in the world to launch an automatic chronograph with the ref. 6139 of 1969, the complication is not as synonymous with the brand as say, dive watches. That is due in part to the brand’s sparse offerings in terms of mid- to- high-end mechanical chronographs. But that is slowly changing. After reviving the Speedtimer two years ago, Seiko has just released the latest iteration of the model with the Prospex Speedtimer SRQ045. Benefiting from an all-black makeover, the new Speedtimer is stylish yet functional homage to the stopwatches Seiko made for the 1972 Winter Olympics in Japan. Initial thoughts I wasn’t too impressed by the new Speedtimer initially as it appeared way too similar to the regular-production model. But when I looked closer, I changed my mind. While the new Speedmaster is admittedly one of many retro-styled chronographs introduced by Seiko in the past few years, it’s still an attractive watch. The stark black-and-red livery of the new Speedtimer makes for a formidable racing chronograph; in fact it looks more like sports chronograph than the standard iterations of the model, which feel a bit flat in comparison. The attention to detail in design shows up here better than on other models. Examples of that include the scaled-down minute numerals on the dial and the pump-style pushers. I do wish, however, the seconds hand had a dash of red on its tip to complete the look. That said, the new Speedtimer retains t...
Worn & Wound
Zenith Defy Revival A3691 Gets Throwback Red Dial
Around this time last year, Zenith introduced a new watch to their Revival series focused on the A3642 Defy “Bank Vault”, a particularly stylish example of the brand’s willingness to skirt conventional designs. The Revival perfectly captured that watch’s charming size and smokey aesthetic, and this year they are returning to the platform with the Revival A3691, honoring the first Defy model with a vividly colored dial, released in 1971. The newest Defy Revival A3691 gets the same deep red dial as the original, and keeps all the funk of the design in the process. The late ‘60’s and early ‘70’s were a pretty wild time for watch design, and Zenith was among those at the forefront of pushing the boundaries. Seriously, check out some of their old Port Royal and Defy designs and marvel at their oddity. As far as I’m concerned, we could use a bit of the same thinking today. These Zenith Revival watches are an apt reminder of their creativity, both then and now. Not only do the Revival watches do a great job of looking back, they balance against other Defy watches that are looking to push ahead, such as their latest Defy Skyline range. Or their collaborations with the likes of Felipe Pantone. The Defy Revival A3642 featured a dramatic smokey gradient dial that faded from light to dark, and the latest A3691 retains a bit of this quality within the rich red hue, with a gentle shift from light to dark at the dial’s edge. The oversized hour markers look a bit lik...
Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux Brings New Case to the Laureato in Absolute Light & Shade and Light & Fire
Girard-Perregaux has updated their Laureato with a unique case in two flavors via a pair of watches called the Absolute Light & Shade, and Absolute Light & Fire. What might sound like a fancy new vodka cocktail concoction is actually representative of two takes on a translucent case that’s been subjected to a metallisation process. The result are these Shade and Fire themed Laureato watches, rendered in clear but smokey gray and red tones. The rather complex case shape makes for an interesting experience in this material, while the opacity level means the intricate details aren’t lost in the mix. G-P’s take on the high-end integrated sports watch has always stood a bit outside the norm when it comes to these things, and it’s served all the better for it in this execution. The Laureato was launched in 1975, a year before the Patek Philippe Nautilus, and three years after the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. Then and now, the watch stands in good company and while it’s managed to skirt much of the hype that once riddled the references above, it’s remained a low-key favorite of long-time enthusiasts looking to fly under the radar. What these new models lack in subtlety, however, they make up for in their avant garde execution. It’s also worth noting that a 38mm steel Laureato can still be had at retail for under $15k. The Light & Shade and Light & Fire join Girard-Perregaux’s Absolute Laureato collection, which was introduced in 2019. The Light & Shade features a ...
Time+Tide
Three takeaways from the most expensive watches sold at auction in 2022
Recently, Robb Report listed the 20 most expensive watches sold at auction in 2022. Overall, there was more than $600 million in sales between the top three auction houses (Sotheby’s, Christie’s and Phillips), with these 20 pieces alone accounting for more than $50 million of that total. And though these numbers are quite impressive, there … ContinuedThe post Three takeaways from the most expensive watches sold at auction in 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
First Look: The Zenith Defy Revival A3691 at LVMH Watch Week 2023
At LVMH Watch Week 2023, Zenith did not only unveil new novelties for the Defy Skyline collection, but added a second revival model of the original Defy collection from 1971. The Defy Revival A3691 is a follow-up to last year’s limited edition remake of the genre-defining A3642 “coffre-fort”, now with a glossy red dial with […]
Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: A 1960s LeGant Chronograph By Zenith, A 1971 Omega Seamaster 60, And Two 1970s Chronographs From Heuer
Think outside of the box with this week's vintage selection.
Time+Tide
Cartier unveils new refined Tank Française range for 2023
The Cartier Tank shape has seen many changes throughout its over a century-long history. What began as the Tank Normale, shifted into the L.C., Must, Américaine, and finally, in 1996, the Tank Française. While more models followed in the 2000s, it’s the late 90s Française that’s the focus of today, as Cartier has fully refreshed … ContinuedThe post Cartier unveils new refined Tank Française range for 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
3 Annual Calendars From Patek Philippe, Parmigiani Fleurier, And Omega That Will Only Need One Adjustment In 2023
The annual calendar is much more practical than a standard calendar, which needs correction in all months with 30 days or less; the annual calendar only needs correcting once a year in February. For owners of this noble yet practical complication, making this adjustment marks a yearly highlight. In celebration of the annual calendar, here are three exciting new models to kick off 2022 in style.
SJX Watches
Watches & Wonders Geneva Announces Public Days
The world’s biggest luxury-watch fair, Watches & Wonders (W&W;), is set to take place in Geneva from March 27 to April 2, 2023 at the Palexpo convention centre. The successor to both SIHH and Baselworld, W&W; will see forty-eight brands showcase their latest. This year’s exhibitors include Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, as well as the the big luxury groups, namely Richemont, which owns Cartier, Vacheron Constantin, and A. Lange & Söhne, and LVMH, owner of TAG Heuer, Zenith, and Hublot. W&W; will be open to the public on its final two days of April 1 and 2. Tickets, however, will be required to attend W&W;. They will be available for purchase on the W&W; website starting February 1, 2023, at 12 pm (GMT+1). A ticket costs CHF 70, similar to that of Baselworld. Beyond the fair in Palexpo, W&W; also encompasses events in the city centre meant to enhance accessibility. Exhibiting brands with boutiques along Rue du Rhône and Rues Basses, adjacent streets in Geneva’s prime shopping area, will stage their own events and exhibitions in their stores. At the same time, the organising body of W&W; will have talks and panel discussions at its headquarters at Pont de la Machine. The public days of W&W; bring it closer to the Baselworld model, which historically opened its doors to one and all, both in terms of exhibitors and visitors. As a result, Baselworld enjoyed a six-figure visitors numbers in its best years (though its exhibitors included the jewellery trade and suppliers). In ...
SJX Watches
Cartier (Re)Introduces the Tank Francaise
Cartier’s approach to new products is often simply to deftly reboot a bestseller after a few years or even decades. That formula was applied with great acclaim to the Tank Must and Santos-Dumont (though the Pasha revival didn’t quite meet with the same commercial success). Now Cartier is doing it for the Tank Francaise. First introduced in 1996 as the first Tank with an integrated bracelet, the Tank Francaise was a major seller for Cartier in the decade that followed. Though the model survived well into the 21st century, it remained essentially unchanged since its launch. Though visually similar to the original, new Tank Francaise is an entirely new watch, having undergone a major facelift that preserved the original outline while refining all the details. The large model in steel with an automatic movement Initial thoughts Like many of Cartier’s other entry-level models, the Tank Francaise is an appealing design at a relatively affordable price. The large automatic model in steel, for instance, retails for under US$6,000. It demonstrates how Cartier does best when it does little. The new design remains easily recognisable, even though every aspect has been revamped, ranging from the applied sticker numerals to the recessed crown. If you liked the original, you’ll probably like this one. The biggest drawback of the new Tank Francaise is simply that most of the line up is quartz, which will disappoint aficionados of mechanical watches. In fact, only one version, th...
Hodinkee
Recommended Reading: Meet The Five Finalists In The Wristcheck X AP Royal Oak Competition
Each of the designs offer a fresh take on a familiar watch.
Worn & Wound
On-Wrist Reaction: Norqain Gets Wild, & Two Takes On The GMT
In this episode of On-Wrist Reaction, we take a look at three watches that bring three distinct flavors to the table, and all manage to make a compelling case in their own way. We start with something entirely new and slightly unexpected from a brand called Lorca, who have designed an elegant take on the GMT that would feel as at home in a cocktail bar as it would in the field. Next is a new GMT from Nodus, offering plenty of style and function for the money, it’s the Sector GMT. Finally, we have the Norqain Wild One, featuring Norqain’s new material, Norteq. We have a deeper look at all three watches coming soon, but until then you can see our initial reactions in the video below. You can see Zach Kazan’s introduction of the Norqain Wild One, including thoughts from Jean-Claude Biver, live from Switzerland right here. If you have any questions or thoughts on these watches that you’d like to see addressed in our reviews, be sure to let us know in the comments. Furthermore, if you have a watch or a piece of gear you’d like to see us react to, please reach out to us at info@wornandwound.com. The post On-Wrist Reaction: Norqain Gets Wild, & Two Takes On The GMT appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
The Breitling SuperOcean 44 is the anti-Submariner
One of the most rewarding things for me about my watch-collecting journey is getting together with other collectors. Not so that we can all posture, judge, and brag, rather for the friendships and connections that are much more meaningful than any timepiece (yes, even a Tiffany dial 5711). I try to attend RedBar meetups locally … ContinuedThe post The Breitling SuperOcean 44 is the anti-Submariner appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Ralph Lauren RL867 Timepieces
Ralph Lauren releases four new additions to the Ralph Lauren RL867 collection reinterpreting the elegance of the Art Deco era.
Revolution
Touching the Past at WatchBox
Wei and Jeremiah pay a visit to WatchBox Singapore’s offices at Liat Towers and discover an unbelievable piece of horological history – one of the 20 “Souscription” Tourbillons that François-Paul Journe created to fund the start of his brand in 1999. François-Paul Journe is probably the greatest watchmaker of this generation. He can be considered […]
Worn & Wound
Seiko Introduces Astrolabe Inspired Prospex Save the Ocean Limited Edition 1965 Modern Re-interpretation SLA065
The new Seiko Prospex Save the Ocean Limited Edition 1965 Modern Reinterpretation, or better known as the SLA065, is an addition to a long line of limited edition Prospex watches that have served as a platform for the brand to support various marine conservation programs. It’s a watch that houses multiple intersections of Seiko design and various historical instruments embodying the spirit of exploration during a point in time when what was beyond the horizon, and below the ocean’s surface, was virtually unknown. While resting on the shoulders of the 62MAS, Seiko continues the lineage of the archetypal diver through the SLA065, while simultaneously paying tribute to a time keeping device that predates the wrist watch. The overlapping circle design on the dial is inspired by a 6th century scientific instrument known as an astrolabe. Used for tracking time and astronomical observation, the astrolabe in its infancy was used to track the sun and other prominent stars in relation to the horizon (latitude) and the meridian (longitude). Naturally this information would prove useful for those navigating the seas, and so the astrolabe was modified to be sturdier and more aerodynamic by cutting some of the disc components away. Using a set of pin holes, a pivoting ruler, and a scale on the outer portion of the instrument, a seafarer would be able to determine their latitude, the height of the sun, as well as the time. As one prominent adventurer once put it, the distance you’v...
Worn & Wound
De Rijke Returns to Miffy Collaboration One Year Later with New Dial Colors
One year ago we showed you the delightful De Rijke Miffy Moonphase, a playful take on De Rijke’s distinctive design language honoring the iconic Dutch cartoon character created by Dick Bruna, Miffy. We remarked then about the watch’s universal appeal beyond the character thanks to the exquisite execution of the character etched into a brass plate alongside the moonphase display. This year, De Rijke returns to the concept with three new dial colors that once again breathe new life into Bruna’s uniquely Dutch creation. The Miffy character has been incorporated into the design of the moonphase disc rotating underneath the dial, which is visible through an oversized aperture that dominates the top half of the dial. The character, which is a bunny, appears within the moon itself, with a slew of stars trailing. The entire design has been laser etched out of brass, polished and black rhodium plated. The recesses are then filled with different colors of lume, creating not only a vibrant illustration, but also an impressive sight in the dark. We’ve talked about our feelings on cartoon characters within the confines of watches before in this editorial, and sadly I neglected to mention the original De Rijke x Miffy as an example that works. According to Laurens de Rijke, the brand’s founder, it’s a reminder that we needn’t always take ourselves too seriously, explaining: “ For me though, it makes a lot of sense, the world of watches is one that is often very serious...
Hodinkee
Watching Movies: David Oyelowo Wears A Solid Gold Rolex Datejust As Martin Luther King, Jr. in 'Selma'
It's a gold classic worthy of his wrist in our watch-related movie of the week.
Worn & Wound
Would You Customize Your Daytona? A New Creation From Artisans de Genève Makes a Strong Case for Personalization
The personalization of high end watches will probably always be a hot topic in the watch community. As long as wealthy collectors are buying watches, some will have an urge to completely revamp them to make them their own. By the same token, the collecting community will always have a segment of purists who find that any tinkering with a brand’s original design amounts to a crime against horology itself. Regardless of your personal feelings and taste, however, I think it’s hard to argue that there are a handful of firms offering custom work at an extremely high level, and Artisans de Genève is certainly at or near the top of a very small list. If gaudy and out of control diamond and gem setting is what comes to mind when you think of custom watches, Artisans de Genève is worth a look, as their house style is rooted in traditional aesthetics executed at a very high level. Because Artisans de Genève doesn’t actually produce and sell their own watches (when browsing their website, you’re reminded at every turn that they aren’t affiliated with Rolex or any other brand, and that they offer custom work for individual clients who provide their own watches), it’s a little hard to get your arms around what they’re working on. That’s largely intentional on their part, of course, but from time to time they will highlight a custom job that is particularly unique or visually beautiful. The Honey Green Project, recently unveiled to the public, is one such example of a...
Time+Tide
Shakira slams her footballer ex Gerard Piqué and his new girlfriend: “You swapped a Rolex for a Casio”
Watches have long permeated pop culture, but recently we may have seen the first horological burn in a song. After a decade together, retired Spanish footballer Gerard Piqué and pop music icon Shakira separated – and it was by no means a friendly break-up. In the wake of the split there has been a fair … ContinuedThe post Shakira slams her footballer ex Gerard Piqué and his new girlfriend: “You swapped a Rolex for a Casio” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.