3,633 articles · 74 videos found · page 77 of 124
Quill & Pad
Do you need to know the time in various time zones? What is the real difference between a worldtimer and a GMT watch? How complicated are these watches to use? Chris Malburg answers these questions and more after spending some quality time with two enchanting multi-time zone watches.
Hodinkee
A thoughtful primer to help you better understand just how bad you might need that vintage Rolex.
SJX Watches
Voutilainen watches are well loved for their dials, which are made in-house and offered with a myriad of finishes – primarily guilloché or enamel – as well as numerous colours and appliques. But unconstrained freedom leads to hesitation, and too many choices make a decision difficult. American psychologist Barry Schwartz, writing in The Paradox of Choice, notes that consumers are often happier having to choose from fewer options, rather than more. The author’s custom GMT-Villes But in my own collecting, perhaps the opposite is true. When I work with an independent watchmaker on a custom or bespoke watch, exploring the abundance of possibilities is the main attraction, particularly when I can specify the details face to face with the watchmaker himself. Investing sufficient time to figure out my goal makes the process of choosing not a task to be feared, but an enjoyable journey leading to the unique piece. This is my story of commissioning the GMT-Villes from Kari Voutilainen (which happened slightly before I embarked on a similar project with Andreas Strehler). Kari Voutilainen in his showroom. Image – FHH The beginning of custom work After setting up his own workshop in 2002, Kari, then 40 years old, made his debut as an independent watchmaker with the Masterpiece series of wristwatches, starting with Masterpiece 6 unveiled at Baselworld in 2005. The Masterpiece watches were all one-off minute repeaters relying on rebuilt and finely decorated vintage ebauches ma...
Revolution
A blizzard in Texas? That would be the Grand Seiko x Timeless collaboration, the SBGE249 Spring Drive GMT.
Time+Tide
Watch Disasters is a new series on Time+Tide that describes, in chilling detail, incidences when owning an expensive watch goes wrong. This is not going to be comfortable reading, so prepare for the pain. Admittedly, this is a bit of a soft start. The ‘prodigal’ in the title gives it away. If you have a … ContinuedThe post WATCH DISASTERS #1 – Ken’s prodigal GMT-Master II appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
In this week's article, we move beyond the mainstream and look at six diver's watches that are not the Rolex Submariner nor the Omega Seamaster.
Deployant
The classic Omega Seamaster vs Rolex Submariner debate has been talked about so often, we sometimes forget what its story symbolizes. The debacle has drawn many different opinions, but one argument is agreed upon unanimously.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
This new iteration of the LIMES Endurance GMT features the same updates that the flagship Endurance II dive model received. You can think of it as the Endurance II with a GMT hand. Differences that I've noted...
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Grand Seiko is typically seen as a restrained brand design-wise (dials excepted), but this 46mm chunk of titanium and ceramic proves that the brand has it in them to pull a modern sports chrono out of the bank when it matters … To be honest, when I first saw Grand Seiko’s contemporary-looking new … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko’s big Black Ceramic Spring Drive Chronograph GMT (ref. SBGC221) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
If I had a million dollars, or maybe two, to buy a Rolex chronograph, I could perhaps buy one of the five unique “Zenith” Daytonas in platinum, a Datocompax “Jean-Claude Killy” (as Davide Munari did), a “Paul Newman” Daytona (not), or a ref. 4113 split-seconds. Of the many ways to spend that much money on a Rolex chronograph – and not any other complication – the ref. 4113 is the most unusual, interesting and horologically complex. At the same time, the ref. 4113 was also a dead-end for Rolex, because it never furthered development of the split-second chronograph and instead relied on standard chronographs for all its auto-racing activities. Produced in 1942 in a run of just 12 watches – with case numbers “051’313” to “051’324” -the ref. 4113 is the only split-seconds, or rattrapante, chronograph ever made by Rolex. Phillips will soon sell ref. 4113 with case number “051’318” – the watch pictured here – at its upcoming November watch auction. Ref. 4113 with case number “051’318” The Valjoux 55 inside The racing connection Though formal documentation as to its origins no longer exist or are unknown, the story behind the ref. 4113 is by now familiar thanks to research over the years as examples emerged at auction. In 1991, a pair of these emerged at Christie’s, at its Geneva and London salerooms respectively. The first, with case number was “051’313”, was sold in May 1991 at Christie’s in Geneva for 82,500 Swiss fr...
SJX Watches
A year after the opening of the Rolex Building in Dallas, designed by Japanese architect Kengo Kuma, London-based David Chipperfield Architects just announced it won an international design contest for the new Rolex skyscraper in New York City, beating out big names like Foster+Partners and Bjarke Ingels Group (which designed the new Audemars Piguet museum), according to industry publication Architects’ Journal. “Our team is committed to creating an exemplary building befitting the heritage and culture of the Rolex brand, as well as its prominent 5th Avenue location,” says Mr Chipperfield, speaking in the press announcement. Modernist and fronted entirely in glass, much like the rest of its work, the Chipperfield design will replace the watchmaker’s existing building located at 665 5th Avenue, on the corner with 53rd Street. Originally built for Danish silversmith Georg Jensen in 1924, the 12-storey building was revamped with a glass and aluminium facade when Rolex acquired it in 1977 for its American headquarters. The current Rolex Building, home to the company since the 1970s. Image – Google Maps A rendering of the new Rolex Building. Image – David Chipperfield Architects According to industry lore, the then chief executive of Rolex, Andre Heiniger, decided to buy the 5th Avenue building during a visit to the United States, closing the deal before getting the approval of the company’s board. Heiniger also led Rolex to acquire several dozen lo...
SJX Watches
The most talked-about watch at Sotheby’s upcoming Important Watches auction in Hong Kong is lot 2300, a Rolex Cosmograph Daytona powered by a Zenith El Primero movement that’s described as “a possibly unique… chronograph wristwatch with a red dial”. And as with all high-profile watches, the auctioneers have given the watch an Italian nickname, “Luna Rossa”, which translates as “red moon”. The reason the “Luna Rossa” is controversial is because such a red dial has never ever been seen before. Usually unicorns are known and whispered about, even if seldom seen, but the “Luna Rossa” has surprised everyone. Experts and insiders I approached have neither encountered nor heard of such a dial, which makes it quite a revelation. But they all agree it is correct – in the sense that all elements are identical to known Rolex dials of the period – though of unknown origin. Sotheby’s itself hasn’t provided much background about the watch, either officially or unofficially. Unlike the unique platinum Daytona “Zenith” that Sotheby’s sold last year, setting a record price for a modern Daytona, which had a backstory that was I managed to uncover, the “Luna Rossa” remains a mystery. The dial is glossy red lacquer, with gold indices and sub-dials When such unusual dials emerge, the immediate question is one of authenticity. The “Luna Rossa” passes the test – the dial is correct in its details. The element usually regarded as crucia...
Quill & Pad
For watch aficionados, GMT may as well mean “grand, magnificent, and timeless” for it offers the convenience of indicating two time zones on one dial. While today we can see all 36 time zones from every mobile phone, that doesn’t diminish the joy of a dual time zone timepiece. Here Sabine Zwettler highlights three no-nonsense GMT watches that each represent the sophistication of second time zone indications in their very own way. Enjoy their classic travel-time designs pared down to the essential!
Hodinkee
A unique, complicated Rolex with a diamond dial and a strange history? Yes, please.
Hodinkee
In vintage Rolex collecting, what you see may not be what you get.
Time+Tide
There’s something really appealing about a well-priced travel watch, and the Atlas GMT, from micro brand Monta, certainly fits that bill. If you’re not familiar with Monta, they’re a relatively young brand inspired by the well-priced tool watches of yesteryear and, I’ve got to say, they’ve done a really good job of delivering on that … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Monta Atlas GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
When a name renowned for its personalisation of higher-end pieces announces an off-the-shelf offering, it tends to raise eyebrows. However, the Bamford brand has defied expectations not once, but twice, now with the Bamford London GMT. Housing the self-winding Sellita SW330-1 25, it has already been widely pointed out that the Bamford GMT case and … ContinuedThe post Is the Bamford London GMT a knock-out? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It was a long time between drinks. An epic 200 years. And both beverages were served in Britain. We are talking about the invention of the lever escapement, the ‘beating heart’ of the mechanical watch, by British clockmaker Thomas Mudge around 1775. The only successful alternative, the co-axial escapement, was unveiled nearly two centuries later … ContinuedThe post INSIGHT: The Great Escapement – Explaining the Rolex with an Omega heart appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Those unfamiliar with the world of ultra-bling Rolex watches must wonder – who are they catered to? Dictators? Drug dealers? Nightclub owners? Instagram influencers? But the answer is actually something more common. All of us inevitably know someone like this: the middle-aged man usually in athletic wear by Louis Vuitton and Gucci, and whose idea of formal wear is an embroidered velvet suit from Dolce & Gabbana that resembles curtains from a chateau. He’ll probably drive a super car that is “stickered”, either the whole car wrapped in a matte, metallic finish, or worse, “stickered” with flames and stripes on the sides. Then this gentleman will probably be wearing a watch like this. And if he isn’t, he will really want one. It’s easy to poke fun but the nattily dressed gent is enjoying himself and who can fault that? And so it is with this watch, which has certain, look-at-me appeal that is just calling out to be enjoyed. This is the new and uncommon Daytona ref. 116578SACO with an orange sapphire-set bezel. Cosmograph Daytona ref. 116578SACO Each year Rolex unveils a handful of bejewelled watches that are shown to the press and public at Baselworld – last year’s was the Daytona “rainbow” and this year had the Day-Date “rainbow” – while also releasing a smaller number of gem-set models on the quiet, which are usually only shown to retailers. This year’s hush-hush launches included the GMT-Master II “SARU” in Everose gold, but als...
SJX Watches
While Grand Seiko watches are classical and often formal, the Grand Seiko Sport collection is all about larger, more casual watches, The latest addition to the Sport line is the Spring Drive GMT SBGE248, the first Grand Seiko with a yellow gold bezel and crown. Yellow gold has been widely used for Grand Seiko watch cases, including for the commemorative Grand Seiko Heritage SBGW252, but the two-tone look is a first for the brand – an indication of its conservative approach to design. The contrast of yellow gold and blue is a tried and tested – and perhaps slightly overdone – approach for a luxe sports watch, evidenced by the popular Rolex Submariner ref. 116613. On the new SBGE248, yellow gold is applied generously and the colour stands out. The bezel is 18k yellow gold, as is the crown, while the hour markers, hands and markings on the dial are all gilded. Though the bezel itself is gold, the insert is scratch-resistant sapphire, just as it is on the standard Spring Drive GMT. Size-wise the watch is identical to the standard model, with a case diameter of 44mm. The case is stainless steel, as is the bracelet. It is powered by the self-winding Spring Drive cal. 9R66 that guarantees an accuracy of within 15 seconds a month – or half a second a day – and a power reserve of 72 hours. The incredible accuracy is thanks to the electronically-regulated, mechanical oscillator inside; the regulation in turn is governed by a quartz oscillator with an integra...
Hodinkee
A sharp new color scheme for the Spring Drive GMT.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: It’s not too often you see something genuinely ‘new’ in the watch space - with all the ‘novelties’ on offer. The Longines Conquest V.H.P. GMT Flash Setting, however, is new. The tech inside is user-friendly, smart, and makes for a better watch. And that’s something we can get behind. A few weeks ago … ContinuedThe post On the road with Longines’ smart traveller, the V.H.P. GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s pick: Whenever I pop into an op shop (or thrift store for our American readers), I always make sure to have a look at the watches, JUST IN CASE. Because you never know, you might just have the level of luck of this guy who, in 2016, picked up a Panerai that turned out … ContinuedThe post Remember when that guy bought a broken Rolex-made Panerai at a car boot sale for £10? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Panerai’s top-tier timepieces go by the name of Lo Scienziato - avant-garde evolutions of the brand’s classic case shapes that really let the watches’ technical side shine. Of course, the technology is present in the movement: a skeletonised, three-dimensional offering that fills the 48mm case; the P.2005/T calibre boasts a central time and GMT, 24-hour … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The pure craziness of Panerai’s latest Luminor Tourbillon GMT 47mm Lo Scienziato PAM00768 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It may come as news to you (but not to our second biggest audience group by city, after Sydney) that people from Melbourne have a thing for wearing black. Some say it’s an inherently arty nature. You never know when you’re going to be invited to a gallery launch, after all. Being from Melbourne, we … ContinuedThe post The best watches to wear with black – Part 1, featuring Rolex, Omega, Hublot and Panerai appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Based on the specs of the Pilot GMT 42, some may think it would wear a bit on the larger side. Allow me to assuage your uncertainties.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Timekeeping standards are suddenly cool again. Omega has been steadily touting the benefits of their Master Chronometer certification, Patek has their own standards, and Rolex recently upped their game with the Superlative Chronometer Standard. But what is it? This article from a while back explains everything you need to know. Since 1951, nearly … ContinuedThe post What is the Rolex Superlative Chronometer Standard and why does it matter? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
I feel that I need to briefly explain when these videos happen, and what’s going on with us at these points in time. They are filmed on our last day at Basel. They are filmed without an autocue (I know, unbelievable!). They are filmed with zero access to any illegal substances. And they ALL contain … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Andrew’s top 3 Basel 2019 watches between $10,000 and $35,000 inc. Zenith, Bulgari and Rolex appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The story in a second: A rare case of quartz having legit enthusiast appeal, albeit in a clever, and very novel, fashion. Say “it’s quartz” and countless watch nerds cringe; however, there have been some exceptions to the rule over the years. Of course, Grand Seiko Spring Drive calibers get a pass on account of … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Longines Conquest V.H.P. GMT “Flash Setting” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Story in a second: All the complications you could possibly want in a Panerai, in a small(er) package. There’s something about Panerai that I’ve always found fascinating. I don’t know if it’s because of the instantly recognisable shape of the case, the origins of the brand as a supplier of wrist-worn diving instruments to the Italian … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The 42mm Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Power Reserve (PAM01537), the little Panerai that could … appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Question, suggestion, or just want to say hi? Drop a note.