Quill & Pad
Elena Penna: Old School Italian Gin And Vermouth
Ken Gargett takes a deep dive into vermouth and tasted the gin and vermouths of Italian producer Elena Penna.
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SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Introduces the Tambour Jacquemart Minute Repeater “200 Years”
The world’s biggest luxury brand, Louis Vuitton has in recent years revealed steadily growing ambitions in haute horlogerie, especially after its acquisition of Geneva complications specialist La Fabrique de Temps (LFDT). To celebrate the 200th anniversary of the birth of its namesake founder, the brand created the Tambour Jacquemart Minute Repeater “200 Years”. Conceived by LFDT, the Tambour “200 Years” is a one-of-a-kind timepiece that demonstrates its watchmaking division’s mastery of fine watchmaking as well as its appreciation of artisanal craftsmanship: the movement combines both a minute repeater and automaton, while the dial is enamel miniature painting by none other than Anita Porchet. Initial thoughts Some two years in the making, the Tambour “200 Years ” exemplifies Louis Vuitton’s development as a maker of haute horlogerie. The movement is impressively complicated, while the dial is nuanced and artisanal. Granted, the watch is huge at almost 48 mm, so it’s far from subtle, but that reflects the house style of Louis Vuitton. The dial in particular reveals the thought that went into its conception and execution, with the cosmos represented by shaded, translucent blue enamel that is nearly ethereal and complemented by automaton elements sculpted in white gold. The impressionistic depiction of the night sky and planets brings to mind Stanley Kubrick’s sci-fi classic 2001: A Space Odyssey. The Tambour “200 Years” is actually the se...
Time+Tide
WHAT TWEAKS MY TOURB: Enough with the digital renders – brands need decent photography
One of the most common tips given to watch shoppers is to go and see their potential purchases in the metal before buying them. Not only is it beneficial to feel how they fit on your wrist, but also how they interact with real-world lighting and real-life eyeballs. In the online age, and especially post-COVID, … ContinuedThe post WHAT TWEAKS MY TOURB: Enough with the digital renders – brands need decent photography appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
![[Video Review] Norqain Gets Adventurous With Wild One & Norteq](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2023/02/Norqain_wildeone_012.jpg)
Worn & Wound
[Video Review] Norqain Gets Adventurous With Wild One & Norteq
I see plenty of discussion around the idea of a GADA watch within the watch enthusiast space, that is the concept of a Go Anywhere, Do Anything watch. Of course, each of us has our own criteria for what the perfect GADA watch must have, but these are generally watches that do a good job of skirting between the boundaries of any specific genre. Ultimately, a watch is what we make of it; clearly not many of us are divers or pilots, yet many of us enjoy watches specifically ascribed to these realms. We’ve seen a growing trend of brands simply labeling their watches in broadly generic terms, like ‘active watch’ or ‘sport watch’ implying it can stand up to the rigors of more average human activities. More walks in the park or sledding with your kids and less diving to 300 meters or calculating fuel loads in an old war plane. I say all this to set up the discussion around a new(ish) watch from Norqain called the Wild One, a watch which the brand describes as the “ultimate sports watch”. It’s got all the impressive specs you’d associate with modern dive or field watches, like a 300 meter depth rating and a chronometer rated movement, but it’s not being positioned explicitly as a dive watch, or a field watch. It’s a sports watch. For my lifestyle, a GADA watch closely resembles what I’d consider a sports watch, so this billing was good news to me. It should be easy to wear regardless of activity, able to put up with some light wear and tear, be legible, a...
Worn & Wound
Maurice Lacroix Teams Up with Mohindra Racing for a New Aikon Tide
It’s been almost a year since Maurice Lacroix unveiled the Aikon Tide watches. These colorful sports watches made from up-cycled ocean plastics represent a new entry point into the Maurice Lacroix collection, coming in at under $1,000 and making an overt play for the hard earned cash of a younger watch consumer. When the watches launched a year ago, many in the community rolled their eyes at another brand jumping on the green bandwagon with a “plastic” watch. But in the months since the Tide’s launch, a plastic watch of a different variety has absolutely taken over the watch world. The MoonSwatch is, admittedly, at a lower price point, but the enthusiastic response to those watches proves that nontraditional and considerably less expensive materials are capable of catching on in the right package. The Tide, then, isn’t going anywhere, and Maurice Lacroix has just unveiled a new version with their partners at Mahindra Racing in an appealing new colorway that might serve to remind some that there are other brands to consider in the plastic watch realm. Maurice Lacroix has had a relationship with Mahindra Racing since 2020. The team is part of the founding group of the ABB FIA Formula E World Championship, which is the premier circuit for the latest crop of single seater electric race cars. The new crop of electrics are serious pieces of tech unto themselves, with lightning quick acceleration and top speeds approaching 200 miles per hour. As with F1 and other moto...
Hodinkee
Talking Watches: With The New England Patriots' Special Teams Unit
Ahead of that other game this week, three elite special teamers – Jake Bailey, Joe Cardona, and Nick Folk – sat down to share their special watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Seiko Speedtimer Mechanical Chronograph SRQ045 conjures black magic from a historical stopwatch
Seiko’s latest addition to the Speedtimer line of chronographs sports a sinister new black finish The 8R46 column wheel caliber offers solid value for an in-house chrono movement The dial’s look is based on a historical Seiko stopwatch from the 1970s Seiko was the first to market with the automatic chronograph, the original Speedtimer 6139, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Speedtimer Mechanical Chronograph SRQ045 conjures black magic from a historical stopwatch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New and reviewed: Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-thin
Ahead of Watches & Wonders 2023, Piaget announces the new Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin as an addition to the iconic Polo lineup.
Quill & Pad
Patria Brigadier Flyback Chronograph: Run, Don’t Walk, It Was The Best Value Swiss Made Automatic Chronograph Available Today (Until Sold Out)- Reprise
Every time Ian Skellern writes the words “relatively affordable” here on Quill & Pad, he braces himself for the stream of comments reminding him that he must live in an alternative reality to most of the world. So he doesn't describe the Patria Brigadier Flyback Chrono as relatively affordable (though compared to most of the watches we review on Quill & Pad he thinks it well merits that description), but he does think that it’s fantastic value and the bargain of the year. And here he explains why.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The William Wood Fearless is the brand’s first field watch
There’s a romanticisation that surrounds firefighting that’s been around since the profession’s inception. Firemen are mentioned by wide-eyed children in the same breath as astronauts and secret agents, and sometimes the glorification of the job can overshadow the genuine danger and sacrifice it actually involves. William Wood have built their brand upon honouring these legends, … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The William Wood Fearless is the brand’s first field watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
HYT Moon Runner: A Moon Phase Straight Outta Cyberpunk
The HYT Moon Runner is straight out of cyberpunk, blurring the line between terrestrial and interplanetary travel, with massive, diverse, and dark cityscapes filled with glowing neon. And then there’s its semi-spherical moonphase, capillary hour display, minutes, date and month. Joshua Munchow takes a closer look.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: This New Monza Proves Why You Should Give Hyper-Modern TAG Heuer A Chance
TAG Heuer has long been saddled with the burden of its historical icons, but don't dismiss where it's going just because you're longing for where it's been.
W
Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
A Week in Watches Ep. 35: What’s Old is New Again
It’s time for episode 35 of A Week in Watches! This week, Zach Weiss is back with some new, old releases. Well, they are all new versions of watches that have existed before, to be more accurate. There’s a stunning urushi dial from Grand Seiko, a cool collab from Synchron, a funky Zenith, and some unabashedly bold Citizens. This week’s episode is sponsored by Whatnot, a live-stream auction app where you can buy and sell unique items. Join the Windup Watch Shop on Tuesday, February 7th ET, where they will be showing and selling various items from the shop, including the Zodiac x Rowing Blazer Sea Wolf and ADPT Series 1 Watches. There will be giveaways, auctions, and more! Follow this link to sign up for Whatnot and get $15 in credit toward your first purchase. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 35: What’s Old is New Again appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Audemars Piguet's Most Complicated Watch Ever: The New Code 11.59 Universelle RD#4
A total of 23 complications – including a perpetual calendar, minute repeater, grand and petite sonnerie, flyback chronograph, and tourbillon – show AP's prowess as a true watchmaker of ultra-complicated watches.
Deployant
Independent mind: Six brilliant and lesser-known watches from independent watchmakers and manufacturers
In this week's article, we enter into the rabbit hole of independent watches and explore timepieces from independent watchmakers and manufacturers.
Time+Tide
VERSUS: The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate 910P & Breguet Tradition Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097
Welcome to Versus. This new column is as simple as it sounds. Each week a member of the Time+Tide team will be tasked with pitting two comparable watches against each other head to head, highlighting why they are worthy of being compared, the different strengths each distinctly carry, and the reasons to choose one over the … ContinuedThe post VERSUS: The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate 910P & Breguet Tradition Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Clowning around: How Konstantin Chaykin put a smile on the dial to invent the Joker, a truly original watch design
Editor’s note: This story appeared in the fourth issue of NOW, the T+T Watch Buying Guide and gives you a taste of the sort of the features you can expect in our print magazine. Pick up the latest issue now to check out the top 207 releases of the last six months In 2017, Russian … ContinuedThe post Clowning around: How Konstantin Chaykin put a smile on the dial to invent the Joker, a truly original watch design appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: Live Report from Red Bull Racing’s 2023 Season Launch, a Never Ending AI Generated Seinfeld Episode, Tiffany Signed Nike AF1, & More
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Blake Buettner Red Bull Racing 2023 Season Launch Recap This week, we had the opportunity to witness the launch of the RB19, Red Bull Racing’s Formula 1 car for the upcoming 2023 season (well, kinda). The car was launched in New York City, and is the only F1 car set to be revealed in the US, a sign of both the raising popularity of the sport in the States, as well an opportunity to spotlight their just-announced engine partner from the 2025 season on, Ford Performance. 2023 will the second year of the new regulations, which saw a shuffling of the regular order of a prior generation, and catapulted Red Bull’s team to the top of the heap, where they brought home the World Constructor’s championship, as well as the World Driver’s championship, won by Max Verstappen. Joining the team for the reveal were both drivers, Sergio Perez and Max Verstappen, as well as their newly announced reserve driver for the season, fan favorite, Daniel Ricciardo. All three were sporting the teams newly designed apparel, and there wasn’t much in the way of watch spotting, other ...
Time+Tide
The T+T Team’s watch predictions and hot takes for 2023
Editor’s note: After spending a bit of time reflecting on the best moments, releases and trends of 2022, the Time+Tide team is now turning their attention to the year ahead. So we’ve assembled to present our predictions, hot takes and Hail Marys for 2023. Fergus Nash: Yellow gold should make a big comeback We’re living … ContinuedThe post The T+T Team’s watch predictions and hot takes for 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Actively Black x Teleport ‘Obama’ Watch: Hands On – Reprise
On January 1, 2022, watch spotters were flummoxed by a photograph of President Barack Obama and First Lady Michelle Obama in their New Year's Eve party dress. The former POTUS appeared to be wearing a black Royal Oak-style chronograph on a rubber strap. The watch in question turned out to be a collaboration between Teleport, a little-known U.S.-based fashion watch producer, and Actively Black, a U.S.-owned leisurewear company. Colin Alexander Smith managed to get his hands on one for a closer look, which he shares here.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Green Aventurine
With at least two iterations launched since the model’s debut – first in enamel and then onyx – the Code 11.59 tourbillon is third time lucky with the latest version of the model being the most striking to date. The Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Flying Tourbillon Green Aventurine is in 18k pink gold with the centrepiece being the fired enamel dial dial containing crushed aventurine glass. Initial thoughts Bold and contemporary appears to be the name of the game for Audemars Piguet, as the recent releases indicate a strong push of the Code 11.59 lineup refreshed with modernised and adventurous livery. And the new Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon delivers on that front – love it or hate it, it is a markedly distinct variation of its conservative predecessors. The green dial combined with the package of the pink gold case and black ceramic case middle offers a striking contrast that’s intriguing in person. Colour contrast Black ceramic is the recent trend for Audemars Piguet, as the brand has been increasingly using the material as the case middle for the Code 11.59 lineup. Sandwiched between a pink gold bezel and case back, the combination is a decidedly contemporary appearance especially when paired with the stock rubber strap. But of course, the appeal of the new model is the green aventurine dial. Made by firing crushed aventurine glass in an 800°C furnace, the dial glimmers and sparkles under the light. The green colour luxuriously contrasts the dial adornments...
Time+Tide
The DIY Series: How to modify your watch (Part 2)
In Part 1 of this DIY Series, we went over the steps for assembling your own watch from scratch. Even if that’s not the avenue for you, maybe there’s a watch in your collection that’s never been quite as perfect as you’d hoped. If you’ve ever bought and sold similar black-dialled dive watches over and … ContinuedThe post The DIY Series: How to modify your watch (Part 2) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
The 11 Best Watch Books Every Collector Should Read
As we all muddle through the dead of Winter (at least here in the eastern U.S.) and await the coming of Spring and more frequent outdoor activities, many of us are finding ourselves keeping warm inside, with more time to curl up with a good book and read. As any watch enthusiast knows, a good, compelling watch book - whether devoted to a particular brand and its history, a niche category, or a broad narrative about timepieces and culture - can be a very worthwhile way to while away some quiet hours and delve deeper into their passion at the same time. Here we spotlight 10 of the best watch books out there today, several of which you can acquire right here on TeddyBaldassarre.com. A MAN AND HIS WATCH: ICONIC WATCHES & STORIES FROM THE MEN WHO WORE THEM By Matt Hranek Perhaps no book in recent memory has explored the deep and unbreakable bond between watch owners and their most beloved timepieces quite as compellingly as A Man and his Watch, which offers not only the expected high-end photos, provided by Vogue and Dujour contributor Stephen Lewis, but also a host of personal memoirs by a collection of luminaries never before assembled between two covers. Hranek, author of A Man & His Car as well as two cocktail tomes and the founder of Wm. Brown, a men’s luxury lifestyle magazine, weaves together a plethora of sentimental stories about prized personal watches in a series of interviews with celebrities and influential figures from the world of horology. The tales r...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On with the Parmigiani Tonda PF 36
Parmigiani Fleurier continues to iterate on their distinctive Tonda platform, dialing it in a bit further with each step, and the latest example of the Tonda PF 36mm is a near perfect distillation of the concept. We first saw the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor last year, and found a lot to love in the small details. We also found the dial to be expansive on the wrist, almost in its own way when it came to wearability thanks to the wide integrated bracelet. The Tonda PF in 36mm guise addresses nearly every issue we had with the Micro-Rotor, but welcomes a different movement in the process. The Tonda has come a long way, and this is the watch that has us most excited about its future. The modern Tonda PF is often mentioned in the same breath as contemporaries like the Vacheron 222, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo, the Chopard Alpine Eagle, the Girard-Perregaux Laureato… you get the idea, but I’d submit that this watch sits in a slightly different realm to those (also excellent) watches. The Tonda PF has a grace that’s lacking in most high-end integrated steel sport watches. In fact, I wouldn’t call the Tonda a PF a sports watch at all. This is leisure wear at its finest, and will look better than most dressed up to the nines. There is no pretense of adventure lifestyle behind the scenes with this one. The Tonda PF in 36mm confronts this fact head on, and kind of dares you to place it into any specific genre. This specific example features a “steel sand” colored dial that does...
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Minute Repeater Supersonnerie Smoked Sapphire Dial
Besides the Universelle grand complication, Audemars Piguet has another ace up its sleeve when it comes to its line of round watches. Originally launched a blue enamel dial, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Minute Repeater Supersonnerie gains sharper aesthetics with a smoked sapphire dial and a pink gold case. Initial thoughts A big part of the appeal of a repeater is the mystifying mass of racks and levers that drive the chiming mechanism and are most often hidden under the dial. Unveiling their secret is sometimes best done with the direct approach of not having a solid dial. A clear sapphire dials is arguably perfect it for a repeater, because the complication is usually constructed on the movement’s dial side. Unlike other frontal complications such as perpetual calendars, chiming complications are highly interactive – the racks are set in motion during the chiming sequence in a mechanical dance, all while the chimes sound, a performance that elevates the appeal of the complication. And for the Code 11.59 specifically, the tinted sapphire dial works especially well. Matched with high-contrast pink gold, it is an ideal complement for the case design as it blends an otherwise classical complication with contemporary livery that matches the modern styling of the case. As a result, the new repeater is one of the most appealing watches in the Code 11.59 range, with an intrinsic appeal that few of its brethren possesess. Contemporary package While retaining the same...
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT
Amongst the wave of new Royal Oaks just unveiled by Audemars Piguet (AP) is a new “Concept”, the Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT. Historically a platform to showcase novel materials and aggressive design, the new Royal Oak Concept (ROC) continues down that route – but more notably contains an all-new and cleverly-constructed rattrapante chronograph movement with automatic winding. Initial thoughts Much like previous models in the ROC line, the new split-seconds chronograph is a bold statement with a chunky, aggressive case, albeit one refined to become more wearable, especially in light of its size – it is the most wearing Concept to date. Paradoxically, the movement within the large-format case was clearly designed with thinness in mind. For a split-seconds chronograph with a big date, second time zone, and automatic winding, the movement measures a modest 8.92 mm high, svelte by the standards of the complications mix. And in contrast to the design (which brings to mind the Richard Mille RM 11), the movement is unusually refined and clever. An example of is the rotor that’s supported by a large central hub, which provides enough space in the middle to house the entire split-seconds mechanism. This serves to both reduce thickness, while simultaneously offering a view of the rattrapante mechanism without being obstructed by the rotor. Deceptively oversized As with most of its counterparts in the collection, the new ROC has a geometrically-shape...
SJX Watches
Hands On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Ref. 26586TI
Audemars Piguet’s recent launches are mostly variations on a theme, but done well and strongly appealing, as exemplified by the Royal Oak “Jumbo” with a grained dial. The Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin 41 mm is exactly that. Based on the thinnest-perpetual-calendar-ever #RD2 of 2018, the model was first presented in the two-metal combo of titanium and platinum a year later. But now it returns entirely in titanium, an arguably superior presentation that more low key thanks to an all-brushed finish and strikingly lightweight. The clever cal. 5133 inside allows for a case just 6.2 mm high Initial thoughts The new perpetual calendar is probably the best of AP’s new releases. It combines a clever, original movement with the iconic case design, packaged in a compact, lightweight, and mostly discreet manner. While this perpetual calendar is no longer the thinnest in the world – it was trumped by Bulgari last year – it is still remarkably thin. At 6.2 mm high, the case is almost a quarter slimmer than that of the Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 16202. As a result, this feels like a wafer on the wrist, a feeling accentuated by the lightness resulting from the all-titanium case and bracelet. Because it is entirely titanium, this does away with the mirror-polished components that were platinum in the preceding model. This results in a more traditional Royal Oak finish that is slightly more restrained and certainly more elegant. The other element new to th...
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Universelle
Undoubtedly the flagship of its recent new launches, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Universelle is the brand’s most complicated wristwatch in recent years – or perhaps ever. A project that began in 2016, the uber-complication rooted in history: it is a tribute to L’Universelle, the grand complication pocket watch from 1899 made by AP for German watchmaker Union. But the watch simultaneously pushes the brand’s modern-day watchmaking to the limit, particularly in terms of miniaturising highly complex mechanisms. The Universelle is available in two guises, the open dial above and the solid dial pictured further up Officially one of the brand’s Research and Development timepieces – the model is also known as the RD#4 – the Universelle is an exercise in combining into a single wristwatch all the traditional mechanisms that constitute a grand complication, and then some – perpetual calendar, rattrapante chronograph with flyback, tourbillon, and grande et petite sonnerie with minute repeater. L’Universelle on display in the Audemars Piguet Museum Initial thoughts An assuming name that means little to anyone who doesn’t understand the historical inspiration, Universelle is a horological behemoth that captures AP’s industrial and mechanical capability. Though it has a highly modern design, the Universelle harks back to a bygone era of high watchmaking that prized highly complicated watches incorporating as many features as feasible into a (barely) wearable...
Worn & Wound
Four Things You’ll Only See at a Watch Meetup
Anyone who has ever been to one knows that watch meetups are a lot of fun. You get to meet fellow collectors, handle watches you might not otherwise see in person, and hopefully even learn something new about the hobby we all share. But let’s be honest: they’re also kind of weird. A group of a few dozen people rolling into a bar on a weeknight clutching little canvas watch rolls and oh-so-carefully laying their contents out on tables is bound to confuse the waitstaff if they’re new to this whole thing. I often wonder what servers and other diners are thinking about the room full of people obsessively taking photos of their wrists at these things. We must appear absolutely insane. Between regular local meetups and other industry events, I’ve been to more than my share of meetups, get-togethers, and hangouts of all stripes over the course of my time in watches, so I felt like I could chronicle a list of weird things that you’re likely to only see at a watch event. This, of course, is an incomplete list, so if there’s anything critical I’ve left off, be sure to add it in the comments. The “Sex Pile” I think for the uninitiated, this might be the hardest to explain. The “sex pile” is the term commonly used for an arrangement of watches at a meetup into a single “pile” suitable for a photograph to then post on Instagram. It’s gratuitous even beyond the crude name as these photos inevitably include an obscene amount of wealth on display, but I h...
Worn & Wound
When Junghans Gives You Lemons, You Get Two Limited Editions Celebrating the FIS Nordic World Ski Championships
Around this time of year, most of us here living in the North East of the U.S. are looking forward to the weather making a turn. But for the good folks living near the alpine valley of Planica, Slovenia, and ski enthusiasts across the globe, the opposite is true. The more snow, the better. That’s because in the next couple of weeks, the quiet valley of Planica will come to life as they’ll host the 54th edition of the FIS Nordic World Ski Championships. Fans and supporters alike will bear witness to high-level winter athletes from all over the world as they’ll compete in competitions such as ski jumping, cross country skiing, and nordic combined. Time is an important factor across the board here. A second too slow could be the difference between second place or championship glory. Or even the slightest bit of bad timing could put a skier in a really bad spot, especially if they’re cutting in and out downhill at 80 mph, or landing a jump as high as 90 feet. Either way you look at it, it would behoove you to have an accurate watch, whether you’re a competitor, or just a spectator keeping score at home. The Official Timekeeper of the FIS Nordic World Ski Championships isn’t a brand that you, or I would expect – and that brand is Junghans. When I hear the name Junghans, my thoughts immediately go to thoughtfully designed dress-casual watches, like the Max Bill or the Meister. But the Schramberg, Germany based brand is more than meets the eye. Turns out they’ve b...