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Results for Tool Watch vs Dress Watch

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Tool Watch vs Dress Watch

The two ends of the wristwatch axis: utility vs formality. The Submariner / Calatrava extremes and the 1972 Royal Oak hybrid.

Inside the Rolex movement Manufacture: Birth of the beating heart Revolution
Rolex movement Manufacture Birth Nov 9, 2012

Inside the Rolex movement Manufacture: Birth of the beating heart

“I’ve heard tell what you imagine sometimes comes true” – Roald Dahl, Charlie and the Chocolate Factory Of all the complicated watches I’ve owned or worn - despite the varying claims of their makers that their dual oscillators, tourbillons, double tourbillons, resonance, triple tourbillons, constant-force mechanism, chain and fusée, ultra-light honeycomb baseplates and so on, […]

Audemars Piguet Unveils Five New Code 11.59 and Royal Oak Models SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Unveils Five New Code 2 days ago

Audemars Piguet Unveils Five New Code 11.59 and Royal Oak Models

Audemars Piguet’s latest releases continue its embrace of the stone dial trend while revisiting one of the brand’s signature complications. The Code 11.59 Selfwinding 38 mm gains a pair of mineral stone dials in gold obsidian and onyx, while the Royal Oak Minute Repeater Supersonnerie returns in titanium and, for the first time, 18k pink gold. Completing the line-up is the Code 11.59 Minute Repeater Supersonnerie, now in 18k white gold with a smoked sapphire dial that reveals the striking mechanics of the cal. 2953. All five watches are variations of established models, with the changes concentrated on materials, colours, and dial finishes. But there is variety within the familiar formats, particularly among the repeaters. Initial thoughts Audemars Piguet’s latest releases represent selections from near the top and bottom of the brand’s model hierarchy, updated in terms of materials and colour. In this sense, none of the new models are particularly surprising, especially considering the brand’s ongoing rollout of watches with natural stone dials. The mineral-and-baguette format of the pink gold 38 mm Code 11.59, for example, mirrors that of two 41 mm models launched previously with malachite and sodalite dials. The trio of Supersonnerie models are likewise variants of existing models, extending both the Royal Oak and Code 11.59’s collections of chiming watches equipped with the brand’s proprietary approach to sound amplification. First unveiled a decade ago, ...

Audemars Piguet’s Code 11.59 Strikes Gold SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet s Code 11.59 Strikes 2 days ago

Audemars Piguet’s Code 11.59 Strikes Gold

Audemars Piguet continues its embrace of the stone dial trend with two new versions of the Code 11.59 Selfwinding 38 mm. One pairs yellow gold with gold obsidian, its dark surface enlivened by shimmering mineral inclusions; the other combines pink gold with mirror-polished black onyx and baguette-cut diamond markers. Neither breaks new ground, but both put the Code 11.59’s restrained dial layout to good use, leaving the stone to do most of the work. They retain the compact dimensions of the existing 38 mm model, but dispense with the date thanks to the automatic cal. 5909. Initial thoughts Neither model is particularly surprising given Audemars Piguet’s ongoing rollout of watches with natural stone dials. The mineral-and-baguette format of the pink gold 38 mm Code 11.59, for example, mirrors that of two 41 mm models launched previously with malachite and sodalite dials. The restrained dial layout of the Code 11.59 gives the stone room to stand out, while the 38 mm case suits the dressier character of these variations. The two treatments offer different kinds of appeal. The obsidian model relies on texture and glittering gold flecks, while the onyx version is more formal, with a uniformly black surface that emphasises the baguette-cut diamond markers. At US$57,500 in yellow gold or US$68,500 in pink gold with diamond indices, however, both represent a substantial premium over the standard 38 mm models for what is essentially an aesthetic upgrade. That said, they are pri...

Hands-On: The Raring-To-Race HTD Hesagraph RitmoCorsa Fratello
4 days ago

Hands-On: The Raring-To-Race HTD Hesagraph RitmoCorsa

Some watches make you want to get out and race. That’s exactly what I felt when I saw the HTD Hesagraph RitmoCorsa with its bright red dial. This limited edition of 99 pieces celebrates HTD’s five-year partnership with the Italian Scuderia HTD RitmoCorsa racing team. Its enameled red dial echoes the freshly waxed body of […] Visit Hands-On: The Raring-To-Race HTD Hesagraph RitmoCorsa to read the full article.

Hands-On: Can The Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport Preserve The Collection’s Identity Without A Chronograph? WatchAdvice
Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport Preserve 5 days ago

Hands-On: Can The Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport Preserve The Collection’s Identity Without A Chronograph?

The new Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport removes the collection’s defining chronograph complication, but retains its high-frequency El Primero heart. I take the collection hands-on to see whether it can establish its own identity while still remaining a true Chronomaster! What We Love: Retains the Chronomaster identity Meaningful high-frequency dial pattern Well-proportioned for everyday wear What We Don’t: No alternative strap options Limited dial-and-bezel combinations Shark-tooth track feels busy on darker dials Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.8/10 What happens when a brand introduces a model that removes one of the defining elements from an already established collection? Well, that is exactly what Zenith has done with the latest addition to one of the brand’s most refined collections to house the El Primero movement: the Chronomaster. While we were initially expecting a different take on the signature chronograph model, the release of a simple three-hand edition was not something we anticipated, but it is certainly welcome. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Watch Advice (@watchadvice) The story behind Zenith’s Chronomaster Sport begins much earlier than the collection itself, tracing back to the launch of the El Primero in 1969. As the world’s first automatic integrated high-frequency chronograph calibre, the El Primero quickly established the technical foundation that would later ...

A. Lange & Söhne Upgrades the Datograph Perpetual SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Oct 24, 2026

A. Lange & Söhne Upgrades the Datograph Perpetual

A. Lange & Söhne is closing the year in style with the Datograph Perpetual (ref. 410.136E), but now with baguette-cut diamonds for the hours and a five-link platinum bracelet in a style that will definitely please enthusiasts. A compilation of greatest hits that is spot-on for today’s tastes, the new Datograph Perpetual adopts the classic Datograph dial but with a bit of bling. Likewise the bracelet takes after the now-popular Wellendorf bracelets of the 2000s – but with a refined and solid modern construction that allows for easy sizing. Initial thoughts Like some other recent Lange limited editions, this upgraded Datograph Perpetual is easy to like. The makeover is a cosmetic rather than technical one, but it is as good as it gets as facelifts go. The movement inside is the still the L952.1 that’s based on the first-generation Datograph movement. Given how it looks, I would not complain. Notably, the bracelet enjoys the biggest technical upgrade. Though it resembles the bracelets made by Wellendorf for Lange way back, this is actually an Odysseus bracelet in disguise. It has the same modern-day construction and amenities, meaning a robust construction with buttons for convenient link removal. Wellendorf bracelets, in contrast, are pretty but essentially jewellery bracelets on a paired with a very heavy watch, and I doubt they will have the longevity of this one. An example of the first-generation Datograph on Wellendorf bracelet Visually, the dial takes after the ...

Hands On: Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramic SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramic Louis Vuitton’s Oct 23, 2026

Hands On: Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramic

Louis Vuitton’s second instalment of its 1980s revival model is the Monterey Ceramic. Styled like its predecessor – both share a similar inspiration – the new Monterey is simpler in execution and consequently more accessible, if not quite affordable. Instead of 18k gold, the case is now ceramic, in either black or green, with a steel case back. That’s matched with a white lacquer dial that replaces the fired enamel of the gold model. A regular production model, the Monterey Ceramic nonetheless retains the proprietary movement from La Fabrique du Temps (LFT) that is a good example of high-quality industrial-haute horlogerie. Initial thoughts The original Monterey, or more accurately, montre, which is French for “watch”, was a distinctive and surprisingly timeless design by Italian architect Gae Aulenti. But it was not exactly a high-end watch. Today’s recreation, in contrast, is just that. While last year’s Monterey in 18k gold was pricey, the new Monterey dials back on the fancy materials, which reduces the retail price by about half. Considering the high-end Geneva-made calibre inside, this makes the Monterey competitive with traditional watchmakers. The look of the Monterey, however, is not traditional. The style was unorthodox when Aulenti penned it in 1988, and continues to be so now. The unusual case construction gives it a bulbous appearance. Though the case is only 11 mm high, it looks and feels taller, but that is arguably part of the charm. The Mon...

Review: the Gagà Laboratorio Aqualab Worn & Wound
Oct 22, 2026

Review: the Gagà Laboratorio Aqualab

Writing about the Gagà Laboratorio Aqualab has proved a difficult task. A tutor once told me to keep the structure of any article, report, or document simple: tell them what you’re about to tell them, tell them, then tell them what you’ve told them. As I sit to translate my thoughts onto screen, I struggle with both the introduction and summary parts. The longer I spend with this interesting piece, the more difficult it becomes. Gagà Laboratorio describe this watch as “extend[ing] its vision into the world of diving watches, interpreting this category through its distinctive design culture and its contemporary understanding of luxury lifestyle”, and although it encompasses both the function of a dive watch and the refinement of a luxury timepiece I find it tough to pin down exactly what the Aqualab is. On a personal level, I either like a watch, or I don’t. I’d either be happy to buy it, or I wouldn’t. Writing about a watch causes me to think more objectively, and evaluating against an archetype is a good way to do that. The fact that I struggle to pigeonhole the Aqualab is a stumbling block. But here goes… Considering the dial separately from the case, or even the strap, feels a little spurious as the overall design flows strongly throughout. Nonetheless, that’s what I’m going to try to do, starting with the time-telling functions. As you’ll no doubt spot at the very first glance, the Aqualab doesn’t make use of ordinary hands. Hours, minutes, an...

Atelier de Chronométrie’s ADC16 Elevates a Classic SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Oct 22, 2026

Atelier de Chronométrie’s ADC16 Elevates a Classic

Atelier de Chronométrie, the Barcelona-based independent, introduces its first dual-register chronograph, the ADC16, following up on its lauded three-register rattrapantes with a unique gilt-dialled commission powered by a heavily upgraded Valjoux 23. The historical calibre has been reimagined with a new bridge design, assortment, an instantaneous minutes counter, and impressive decoration. And anything that isn’t to your liking can be changed, as customisation is what Atelier de Chronométrie does best. Initial thoughts Atelier de Chronométrie (AdC) specialises in bespoke, vintage-inspired watches that are both handsome and substantively hand made. The brand’s debut chronograph, the AdC8 Split-Seconds Chronograph launched in 2020, was sensational, and its first simple chronograph is nearly as ambitious. The practice of refinishing decades-old chronograph movements is nothing new — at times it seems like there’s an almost endless supply of new-old-stock Valjoux chronographs. But AdC substantially transforms the historical architecture to a degree that is genuinely uncommon, crafting its own redesigned bridges, making its own balance wheel, and replacing the stock semi-instantaneous minutes counter with an instantaneous one. Of course, these upgrades come at a cost. With a starting price of €140,000, AdC’s dual-register chronograph costs significantly more than equivalents from the likes of Patek Philippe and A. Lange & Söhne, which come equipped with more in...

Introducing - The Mexican-Themed Chopard L.U.C Full Strike Día de los Muertos Edition 13 Monochrome
Chopard L.U.C Full Strike Día Oct 21, 2026

Introducing - The Mexican-Themed Chopard L.U.C Full Strike Día de los Muertos Edition 13

Chopard continues its tribute to Mexican culture with the thirteenth interpretation of its L.U.C Full Strike. This latest one-of-a-kind “Día de los Muertos” creation pairs one of the manufacture’s most technically accomplished watches with an elaborate dial depicting a calavera, the stylised skull associated with the celebration of life and remembrance. The 2021 version of […]

Christopher Ward Introduces the C1 Loco Classic Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Introduces Oct 15, 2026

Christopher Ward Introduces the C1 Loco Classic

Today, Christopher Ward officially introduces what some might call one of the worst kept secrets in indie watchmaking. We all knew that a dressy version of the brand’s Loco was coming – their British Watchmakers’ Day limited edition kind of gave it away. No one really thought that would be a one off, right? The all new C1 Loco Classic arrives as a fully formed product line within the brand’s Atelier lineup, and offers collectors who might have bristled at the aggressively sporty, angular C12 Loco a more refined option built on the same caliber with the same dramatic architecture.  The C1 Loco Classic is built on a 41mm 904L stainless steel “Light-catcher” case with a mix of high polished surfaces and contrasting brushed elements. The case features a pronounced groove running through the middle section, following through to the lugs, and has a curvy, rounded appearance. It’s a thick case, measuring a total of 14.1mm tall, but over 5mm of that height belongs to the domed crystal – Christopher Ward says the case itself is 8.55mm thick. Despite its overall height, Christopher Ward has gone to great lengths to create a softer and more organic shape for the Loco Classic, and while it might not work on every wrist, visually it certainly meets the brief of a more refined Loco.  As an owner of a C12 Loco, I can say that while I enjoy the case quite a bit, the real draw of the watch is the movement and the dial, and the way those two aspects of the piece are integr...

Introducing: The Urwerk UR-300 Time Quantum Hodinkee
Urwerk UR-300 Time Quantum What Oct 15, 2026

Introducing: The Urwerk UR-300 Time Quantum

What We Know If you know Urwerk, you know that they've always been looking toward the stars, making instantly recognizable watches with the brand's iconic satellite display that rotates around the dial, with the hour pointing to the minute track as the whole display turns and snaps to reveal each passing hour. They've played with a variety of approaches to this concept, widening the minute track and speeding up the snap as well, but today's release of the UR-300 "Time Quantum" introduces a new mechanic that the brand says is inspired by things at the atomic level. Not to be confused with Urwerk's other atomic-inspired watch (one of my top 10 favorite all-time modern watches, the AMC special), this watch draws from the concept of polarized entities—neutrons and electrons—swirling around. Instead of the rotating single carousel in the past, the new display features a "T-frame" structure. The current hour displays as usual; the flat portion of a triangular hour module is made of beryllium copper, brass, anodized aluminum, ARCAP AP1D, and titanium, and points to the current minute as it travels on a 108º arc. The other hours are rotated 120º on their axis to hide them for legibility. Once it approaches the 60th minute (and transitions to 0), three things happen. Power built up during the rotation forces the T-Frame into rotation in a split second. The frame jumps forward and rotates 72º to put the next hour display into position, also rotating the hour module to be visi...

Hands On: MB&F; LM1 EVO SJX Watches
MB&F; Oct 13, 2026

Hands On: MB&F; LM1 EVO

The MB&F; LM1 EVO brings back the original Legacy Machine (LM) in a smaller, sportier case, with improved shock protection, water resistance and a revised movement. Fifteen years after the LM1 established the LM collection, the EVO preserves its distinctive dual-time layout and suspended balance while making it more suited to the demands of daily wear. Initial thoughts I still remember seeing the LM1 for the first time when it launched in 2011. Up to that point, MB&F; had spent six years developing its identity around the futuristic Horological Machine (HM) collection, and the brand’s original take on traditional watchmaking came as a surprise. The LM1 established what is now the Legacy Machine collection, which began as a thought experiment about what kind of watch founder Max Büsser might have designed had he been born a century earlier. The original LM becomes the fifth MB&F; platform to get the EVO treatment, after the LM Split Escapement, LM 101, LM Perpetual, and LM Sequential (in both regular and flyback configurations). It follows the same script as its predecessors, with a polished titanium (or 18k rose gold) case, proprietary rubber strap, and the brand’s patented FlexRing shock absorber, which helps take the edge off severe impacts. The EVO case is also water resistant to 80 m thanks in part to twin screw-down crowns. Of course, it’s a manually wound movement, which means the threads will se a lot of action assuming the watch is worn regularly. Fortunately, ...