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Field Watch

The military-utility tool watch genre. WWI trench → WWII Dirty Dozen → MIL-W-46374 → Hamilton Khaki and Marathon GPM.

[VIDEO] Missed Review: The Titanium Omega Seamaster 300 2231.50.00 Worn & Wound
Omega Seamaster 300 2231.50.00 Oct 2, 2023

[VIDEO] Missed Review: The Titanium Omega Seamaster 300 2231.50.00

The Omega Seamaster has a rich and complex history that encompasses a broad range of styles over the generations. Odds are strong that each of us conjures a slightly different image upon hearing the word Seamaster, from the Bond examples of the ‘90s, to the PloProf of the ‘60s, or even the quaint, near formal examples from the ‘40s. That breadth is reflected in the modern Seamaster collection, which currently encompasses the Aqua Terra, the Diver 300, the Planet Ocean, and a range of Heritage models that include the likes of the Railmaster and the PloProf. This diversity of options has meant plenty of great references have come and gone, and a few may have even slipped through the cracks through no fault of their own. This Missed Review will focus on one such reference, the titanium Seamaster 300 2231.50.00 from the early ‘00s.  The modern Seamaster 300 picks the story up in 1993, sporting the word ‘professional’ on its dial and a helium release appendage at 10 o’clock. The new watch was about to get the boost of a lifetime thanks to a placement on the wrist of Pierce Brosnan in his portrayal of fictional British spy, James Bond in the 1995 film GoldenEye. It is this reference, the steel 2541.80.00 with quartz movement that generally pops into my head when I think about the Seamaster. It’s not a watch I find particularly attractive, but it is one that I associate with a specific era perhaps more than any other watch. There is something truly unique about t...

The Bespoke Patek Philippe Ref. 3843/1 with a 13-Carat Diamond Crystal Reemerges SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 3843/1 Oct 1, 2023

The Bespoke Patek Philippe Ref. 3843/1 with a 13-Carat Diamond Crystal Reemerges

One of the most intriguing Patek Philippe wristwatches is once again coming up for sale at auction, eight years after it was last sold publicly. Made in 1990 for a Japanese client, the Patek Philippe ref. 3843/1 has a 13.43-carat diamond as its crystal – a large, flat cut also known as a lasque diamond – and is an entirely one-of-a-kind wristwatch with its own singular reference number. As we explained in our 2016 story detailing the watch the first time it was sold (which seems like a lifetime ago in watch collecting), the ref. 3843/1 came about in the early 1990s when a Japanese client handed over the 13.43-carat lasque diamond to Patek Philippe with a request to mount it onto a watch. The watch was completed in 1991 and then sold to the client in 1994. Image – Christie’s Originating in India, lasque diamonds are flat, wide, and irregular in form. They were historically employed to cover miniature portraits and are also known as portrait-cut diamonds. Here the lasque diamond forms the crystal, which camouflages the fact that it is a diamond. Only the facetted edges and tiny inclusions are a giveaway that the crystal is a diamond. Case in white gold and matched with a fine-link bracelet, the ref. 3843/1 was built around the lasque diamond, explaining the unusual triangular case form. The case is about 32 mm by 26 mm at its widest, making it larger than most watches of its era, though relatively small by modern standards. Christie’s photos of the ref. 3843/1 appe...

Introducing the Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tag Limited Editions Worn & Wound
Zodiac x Worn & Wound Sep 28, 2023

Introducing the Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tag Limited Editions

Fueled by nostalgia for the 90s, with a touch of 80s too, the Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tags are a spiritual follow-up to our highly sought-after collaboration from 2021. Inspired by the sights, sensations, and joy of playing laser tag, they are watches that were imagined in three states of illumination – in light, in blacklight, and in the dark, each creating a different experience. Over two years in the making, the watches feature photoreactive elements on the dial, bezel, strap, and even the case and packaging. Two watches unlike any you’ve encountered before, the only question is, which side will you choose, Ultraviolet or Infrared? The post Introducing the Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tag Limited Editions appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso and Cartier Tank- how do the two icons stack up? Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Sep 24, 2023

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso and Cartier Tank- how do the two icons stack up?

When it comes to rectangular watches, there are pretty much only two titans. Brands which release their own will inevitably be compared to them, and for good reason. For nearly a century, these two watches have been at the forefront of fashion whether it’s formal, casual, or even sporty. They are the Cartier Tank and … ContinuedThe post Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso and Cartier Tank- how do the two icons stack up? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Owner’s Perspective: Why I Bought The Tissot Sideral S WatchAdvice
Tissot Sideral S After seeing Sep 22, 2023

The Owner’s Perspective: Why I Bought The Tissot Sideral S

After seeing the press release, then having all three colourways for our hands on review for a few weeks, I pulled the trigger on the yellow Tissot Sideral S. But why? I’ve been wearing the yellow Tissot Sideral S now for about 2 months. And whilst we already did a hands on review on the collection, which you can read about here, this is an “Owner’s Perspective” with a difference. I mean, how can I do another review of a watch that I reviewed a few months back? To start I thought I’d elaborate on my review, especially now than rather than playing around with 3 colours, I’ve just the one to wear as part of my small collection. I said that the Tissot Sideral was one of those watches that you buy to add to a collection, not to start it, or to have as your one watch. Mostly because it’s not an everyday watch when you think about. It’s bright yellow for one, with a yellow inner track on the dial and a kind of pointless regatta timer on the inner scale. The Sideral S in the sand – perfect pairing! To add to this, its black carbon case isn’t all that versatile either, nor is its looks. It’s a very out there sports watch. BUT that’s exactly what it’s designed to be. A faithful recreation of the original yellow fiberglass cased Sideral S from 1971. However, with 300m water resistance, Tissot’s PowerMatic 80 movement with 80hrs of power reserve and their anti-magnetic Nivachron balance spring, it’s the perfect weekend watch, or holiday watch, or really,...

Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin Return to their Time Eater Concept with a Darker Sequel Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Sep 19, 2023

Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin Return to their Time Eater Concept with a Darker Sequel

It’s no surprise that after the successful launch of the Time Eater, the viral collaboration between Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin that launched in April, that the two would attempt a follow up. In fact, not only is it not a surprise, it was expected by anyone who paid close attention to the marketing materials we saw earlier this year, which teased another release to come. Well, like the horror movie franchises that this collaboration sometimes evokes, the sequel has come quickly. The Time Eater II: From Dusk to Dawn, is a pair of watches that use the same basic design as the original Time Eater, but in a darker (literally and figuratively) execution. I don’t know if a “Halloween watch” is actually a thing, but given the aesthetic of the new Time Eater and the season we find ourselves in, it makes a strong case.  Like the first drop, this release sees two different versions of the watch in two different case sizes, released alongside one another. Instead of the silvery white dials of the first pair, here we have black (for the 39mm watch) and anthracite (on the larger 42mm version). Both have bright red minute hands that match the major aesthetic shift on these new Time Eaters: a truly gross bloodshot eye hour register. It’s paired with the same sawtooth seconds register at 6:00, and when everything is put together it certainly gives off a spookier vibe, making the original watches with hints of purple and green seem downright playful by comparison.  The ...

Cartier Reissues the First Tank Cintrée in Platinum SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre JLC calibre inside Initial Sep 18, 2023

Cartier Reissues the First Tank Cintrée in Platinum

Following last year’s Pebble wristwatch, the latest instalment of the Les Rééditions de Cartier series of historical remakes is Tank Cintrée Platinum. Its launch marks the 100th anniversary of the first Tank Cintrée in platinum that debuted two years after the Tank Cintrée, which was in yellow gold.  Notably, the new platinum edition is slimmer than its predecessor in yellow gold launched, standing just 6.03 mm high thanks to a reworked case and ultra-thin Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) calibre inside. Initial thoughts  The recent popularity of Cartier’s classical designs have made reissues like this inevitable. Cartier does them on an annual basis, more or less, which spaces them well enough that each edition remains interesting, even if it is predictable. And in some ways Cartier’s limited editions are more appealing than its special orders, because the limited editions are a known quantity in a fixed form. Like Cartier’s past reissues, the new Tank Cintrée sticks closely to the original design, so much so it is almost indistinguishable from a distance, except for its new-watch sheen. Given the strength of the original design, this is a good thing. Interestingly, this is slimmer than the 2021 reissue in yellow gold. While the thinness is appealing, particularly for a formal-dress watch like this, one wonders if the reduction in thickness was to reduce the weight of precious metal. Besides allowing for a thinner case, the ultra-thin JLC movement is a historical r...

Tudor Unveils the US Navy-Inspired Pelagos FXD Ref. 25717N SJX Watches
Tudor Unveils Sep 14, 2023

Tudor Unveils the US Navy-Inspired Pelagos FXD Ref. 25717N

Tudor’s release on September 14th lived up to the anticipation, particularly for enthusiasts who appreciate vintage-inspired design. The Pelagos FXD ref. 25717N is a variant of the model developed together with the French navy and shares the same specs, including a 42 mm titanium case. But the new FXD “Single Red” pays homage to the brand’s historical affiliation with the US Navy, which turned to Tudor for military-issue timepieces starting in 1950s. Initial thoughts While this may be fairly unsurprising given the nature of Tudor’s catalogue, the new FXD is well executed and ticks all the right boxes for those who love military-inspired tool watches. The no-nonsense black dial with the “single red” marking instantly evokes well-known dive watches of the 1970s. The watch itself is not new. It’s essentially identical to the Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale” from in 2021, but with black dial and bezel that gives it a more purposeful look. It’s a predictable evolution of the model given Tudor’s emphasis on its historical ties with navies and other professional organisations. Like the original FXD in blue, this has a clean dial that allows the design to be unobstructed. Notably, the designers should be commending for going with pure white Super-Luminova on this, instead of faux-vintage lume that might have looked too affected. However, its designers could have been even more striking by dialling back the text on the dial even more, perhaps having just the ...

Seiko Celebrates 110 Years of the Laurel with Seven New Releases Encompassing the Scope of their Catalog Worn & Wound
Seiko Celebrates 110 Years Sep 13, 2023

Seiko Celebrates 110 Years of the Laurel with Seven New Releases Encompassing the Scope of their Catalog

When Hintaro Hattori set up shop in Tokyo’s Ginza at the age of 21, he would eventually change the watchmaking landscape forever. The business, which initially focused on importing and wholesaling Swiss pieces, would go on to manufacture Japan’s first wristwatch, the Laurel, in 1913. It would also eventually be known as Seiko. Not one to waste an anniversary, Seiko is commemorating 110 years since the Laurel with a flurry of releases up and down the lineup. From Presage to Prospex, here is an overview of the new watches. Seiko Presage Bearing the closest resemblance to the original Laurel, the SPB401 bears the trademark red twelve o’clock numeral and two subdials for the date and power reserve. Its enamel dial comes from the work of the venerable Mitsuru Yokosawa and his team. It will be limited to 1,500 pieces with a retail price of $1,250. The SPB413 features an angular case not too unlike the King Seiko line and showcases a “hemp leaf” pattern on the dial. A red mark along the rehaut at twelve is its nod to the Laurel. It’s the most modern of the new releases but perhaps is also one of the most wearable. It is limited to 2,000 pieces with a retail price of $1,050. The least limited of the new Presage releases (3,500 pieces) is the SSK015, a new variation on the existing SSK GMT watches. It pays homage to the Laurel with its four blue hands and red triangle at twelve and will set you back $625. Seiko Prospex Sure to be a fan favorite, the SPB409 Alpinist GMT...

Hands-On: the Lebois & Co Heritage Chronograph Worn & Wound
Sep 8, 2023

Hands-On: the Lebois & Co Heritage Chronograph

Originally introduced in the early 1930s, Lebois & Co was a brand that flew a bit under the radar for most of its original existence. Based out of France, the brand began making fine Swiss-made timepieces which were used regularly in the military. After going out of business in 1972, the brand sat dormant for 40 years or so, coming back into the world thanks to a successful Kickstarter campaign. The new stewards of the brand kept much of what made Lebois & Co what it was - quality Swiss manufacturing, and handsome designs. After a few years of crowdfunding, Lebois decided to keep the crowd involved in the design and production in an interesting way. By creating their own “CoLAB” community, fans of the brand can have a direct say in what the next watch from Lebois would look like.  $2750 Hands-On: the Lebois & Co Heritage Chronograph Case Stainless steel Movement LC-450 manual wind column wheel chronograph Dial Silver / Salmon Lume None Lens Sapphire Strap Leather/Suede Water Resistance 50 meters Dimensions 39 x 47.35mm Thickness 10.5mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Push/Pull Warranty Yes Price $2750 That watch is what we’re looking at now - the Heritage Chronograph, a faithful reissue of Lebois & Co’s original chronograph watch from the 1940s. WIth several options open for voting, the people have spoken, and the watches here are a result of feedback from the community. It is really cool to be able to go back to the CoLAB page and see the number of votes and steps in ma...

Hands-On: The Eucalyptus Green Ressence Type 3 EE Worn & Wound
Ressence Type 3 EE Aug 30, 2023

Hands-On: The Eucalyptus Green Ressence Type 3 EE

The Ressence Type 3 collection welcomes a new member this week with the introduction of the serene Type 3 EE. The brand continues to work in subtle and interesting green hues, following up on the sage Type 8S (reviewed here) with this rich eucalyptus green dial. It’s a slightly unconventional execution within the more dramatic Type 3 collection, which we’ve only seen rendered in black and soft white up to this point. In person, the green is a perfect companion to the Type 3’s primary accent colors and rotating dial sets. Given the case it’s set within, that green is given an oil filled canvas for maximum impact.  The Type 3 is one of two oil filled Ressence watches, along with the “world-proof” dive watch, the Type 5. The effect is remarkable in person, and one that I’ve always found core to the Ressence experience. The Type 3 EE features the eucalyptus green on both the font and back panel of the watch (hence the EE), and comes through brilliantly, as though it were painted directly on the crystal, thanks to the oil filled dial. The color is subtle but rich, somehow, and the colors used for the various displays have been desaturated enough to hit the same value scale as the green itself, so as not to create a distracting level of contrast. The Type 3 is on the maximalist side of Ressence, boasting the oil temperature gauge, a dial for the day of the week, and the date itself, on top of the hours, minutes, and seconds, of course. It all leads to a rather dra...

MB&F; Stuns Again with the Incredible HM9 Sapphire Vision Worn & Wound
MB&F; Aug 28, 2023

MB&F; Stuns Again with the Incredible HM9 Sapphire Vision

Back in January 2021, MB&F; released what remains one of my all time favorite watches in the “This is Totally Insane” genre of watchmaking. Regular readers will understand that this is actually one of my favorite genres – one that I wish more in our little world would aspire to, because, really, how many black dialed dive watches does one really need? The HM9 SV, short for Sapphire Vision, is, as described, a vision in sapphire. The design of this watch takes the already bonkers HM9 and essentially cases it in an elaborate array of sapphire crystals, with a metal frame holding it all together. The result is an incredible view of the HM9’s movement, which has two independent balance wheels joined by a central differential that averages out their rates for, in theory, more stable timekeeping. And it’s all arranged in a shape inspired by automotive design dating to the 1940s and 1950s, because this is MB&F;, and that’s what they do.  Last week, MB&F; announced new versions of the HM9 SV, which is noteworthy because component for component, this has to be one of the toughest watches to make in the entire industry. The reason, of course, is because of the extensive use of sapphire, which has to be custom made specifically for these watches to very precise tolerances. And every piece of sapphire used in the HM9 SV is curved. MB&F; points out that sapphire cased watches made by some of their competitors are using mostly flat pieces of crystal, held together by screws. Th...

WHAT IF… The quartz crisis never happened? Time+Tide
Aug 28, 2023

WHAT IF… The quartz crisis never happened?

Likely the most significant horological event of the previous century, the quartz crisis (or revolution, depending on which side you stood), not only signalled the beginning of the end for many smaller watch manufactures, but also influenced the way we look at watches to this very day. Quartz is often looked down upon, and incorrectly … ContinuedThe post WHAT IF… The quartz crisis never happened? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Rolex acquires venerated multi-brand retailer Bucherer Time+Tide
Rolex acquires venerated multi-brand retailer Aug 25, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Rolex acquires venerated multi-brand retailer Bucherer

As if Rolex needed anymore speculation surrounding the brand, news broke that the Crown has acquired Bucherer – a multi-brand retailer with over 100 locations around the world, 53 of which distribute Rolex watches. But, before we dig into this big international news I first want to discuss something a closer to home. NOW Magazine … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Rolex acquires venerated multi-brand retailer Bucherer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date “Golden Bay” and “Ocean Breeze” limited editions are a retro holiday from the ordinary Time+Tide
Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date Aug 13, 2023

The Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date “Golden Bay” and “Ocean Breeze” limited editions are a retro holiday from the ordinary

Glashütte Original is back with two new limited edition variants of their retro-inspired Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date The rounded-square TV case recalls the freewheeling fashion aesthetic that dominated the 1970s Two matte lacquered dial choices are available, a pale ochre and a muted grey-blue The latest offerings from Glashütte Original conjure up nostalgia-fuelled visions of … ContinuedThe post The Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date “Golden Bay” and “Ocean Breeze” limited editions are a retro holiday from the ordinary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In Depth: Marco Lang Zweigesicht-1 SJX Watches
Aug 11, 2023

In Depth: Marco Lang Zweigesicht-1

Marco Lang made a comeback in 2020 with his eponymous brand and the Zweigesicht-1. The year before the German watchmaker departed his prior brand after disagreements with the investor who was the majority owner, which allowed Mr Lang to revert to being a true independent watchmaker. Despite a relatively conservative face, the Zweigesicht is quirky and original from a technical perspective. Zwei gesicht translates as “double faced”, which describes the watch literally. It has two faces, one on each side of the case, both of which indicate the time. The watch can be worn on either side thanks to lugs that are removable (in an operation that requires delicate manual work). And the movement incorporates a novel, and perhaps unnecessary, shock recorder. Initial thoughts To start with, zwei gesicht is a mouthful for non-German speakers. Perhaps for that reason, fellow German watchmaker A. Lange & Söhne opted for made-up words like Zeitwerk and Datograph. But despite the unfamiliar name, the watch is elegant in form, measuring under 10 mm high, and impressive in decoration and construction. The zwei gesicht nature of the watch gives it two distinct appearances, a low-key conventional front and an elaborate, mechanical reverse. Two-faced watches are not new by any means, but Mr Lang’s approach is notable for rely on conventional lugs and by consequence, maintaining a classical appearance. In contrast, most double-faced watches are either rectangular or have unusual lugs. T...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Geoff Hess joins Sotheby’s as Head of Watches for the Americas Time+Tide
Aug 11, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Geoff Hess joins Sotheby’s as Head of Watches for the Americas

It’s that time of year where the Swiss typically go on holiday, which means there’s less news about fresh releases this week. Nonetheless, some big news was announced at Sotheby’s, when Geoff Hess was revealed as the esteemed auction house’s new Head of Watches for the Americas region. “It is my honour to take up … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Geoff Hess joins Sotheby’s as Head of Watches for the Americas appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso Tribute Chronograph arguably won Watches & Wonders 2023 Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre s Reverso Tribute Chronograph Aug 8, 2023

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso Tribute Chronograph arguably won Watches & Wonders 2023

At this point, Watches & Wonders 2023 feels like it was both yesterday and a year ago. Ultimately, it’s well away in the rear view mirror. Four months later, however, it becomes clear which novelties were the big standouts. It’s the ones still stuck in your mind after the excitement of the fair has passed, … ContinuedThe post Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso Tribute Chronograph arguably won Watches & Wonders 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

[VIDEO] Review: The New TAG Heuer Skipper Carrera Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Skipper Carrera TAG Heuer’s Aug 3, 2023

[VIDEO] Review: The New TAG Heuer Skipper Carrera

TAG Heuer’s iconic racing chronograph, the Carrera, is celebrating its 60th anniversary this year, and is taking full advantage of the opportunity to revamp parts of the collection and introduce some special editions along the way. Earlier this year we saw the release of a new ‘glassbox’ style 39mm Carrera released, within a collection of 5 new references. But there was another one waiting in the wings, which finally saw release last month, a new Skipper Carrera which brings the now familiar colorway to the slick modern chassis. It works just as well as you might expect, and best of all, it joins the collection as a regular production model. It is through this watch that we’ll be taking a closer look at the new Carrera collection as a whole, with special attention to the unique details that make the Skipper, well, the Skipper.  The new Carrera represents the second generation of the modern 39mm glassbox design, which was first launched in 2015 with the Caliber 18 Telemeter. There have been 8 separate, limited edition variations on that original glassbox design in the intervening years, and this new generation marks the first time that it will see full, non-limited production since that initial example back in 2015. This style of crystal, which domes sharply at the edge of the case, is meant to mimic the original plastic crystal of early Carrera watches of the ‘60s. It wasn’t without fault, however, and the latest generation brings a creative solution to the ta...