Deployant
Top picks: Six novelties that piqued our interest this year
In today's Top Picks, we look back a the novelties released in 2022, and take note of six of those which piqued our interest.
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Deployant
In today's Top Picks, we look back a the novelties released in 2022, and take note of six of those which piqued our interest.
Revolution
Watch Brothers London is not merely a retail platform for pre-owned watches of the highest quality but an outlet for founder Ben to share his passion. His vision is to build a community around this shared passion and the collective knowledge of the world of watches through reference quality articles and guides. It was through […]
Time+Tide
Platinum is the acceptable form of heavy metal. The reason for this isn’t just down to the lack of spandex trousers and apocalyptic imagery. It’s simply hard not to be seduced by a platinum watch. Here is the ultimate stealth-wealth material that visually offers the discretion of stainless-steel. And yet pick up a watch like … ContinuedThe post Platinum status: The psychological reason why we think heavy watches are more valuable appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Habring² has scaled down its signature split-seconds chronograph to create the Doppel 38, which retains all of the key features of the original but in a more compact case. Still having the “bullhead” pusher layout that characterises the split-seconds chronographs of Habring², the Doppel 38 is smaller and thinner than its predecessor, but continues to be powered by the proprietary hand-wound A11R calibre. Initial thoughts Long one of the best values in terms of sub-US$10,000 chronographs, the Doppel is perhaps the archetypal Habring² watch since it’s descended from the complication Mr Habring invented at IWC three decades ago. Now vastly improved and refined by Mr Habring, the Doppel possibly the most accessible split-seconds chronograph on the market – in itself a major point of appeal. But the original Doppel was 42 mm, not massive but large enough to make someone who prefers smaller watches think twice. Personally I thought the larger Doppel was sized well for its particular type of complication, but the Doppel 38 is unexpectedly compact, especially at just 11.5 mm high. Beyond making it more wearable for more people, the new dimensions will no doubt give the Doppel 38 a slightly more retro feel, although the dial styles on offer are thoroughly modern. And it remains affordable as such things go, with a retail price of about US$7,900 before taxes. A value-proposition split-seconds Like many of the recent watches from the brand, the Doppel 38 is simple in sty...
Time+Tide
The auctions at Ineichen never disappoint and, on December 3, that track record continues. Because on that day, at 2pm CET, bidding will begin for their Complications: Dates & Calendars auction. Fifty lots of some of the most complicated and beautiful watches from storied brands like Vacheron Constantin, Breguet and JLC. So much complicated goodness that … ContinuedThe post My top five picks from the Ineichen Complications auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Kristen Shirley discusses her watch collection which includes bulgari, piaget, baume and mercier and jlc
Hodinkee
Handmade and unique.
Revolution
Wei speaks to both CEO Nicholas Rudaz and Head of Design, Jean-Loup Glénat about the third piece for Grail Watch 2: Franck Muller’s ingenious double-sided split-seconds chronograph. We are immensely proud to have partnered with Franck Muller to revive these iconic chronographs to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the brand!
Time+Tide
Let’s explore the history of stone dials and why they've made such great watches throughout the decades.The post IN-DEPTH: The history of stone dials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe has introduced two variants of its classic paired complication: the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5271/11P and Ref. 5271/12P are set with blue sapphires and rubies respectively, with each having a graduated finish dial in a matching colour. Both new references retain the look and feel of the ref. 5270 but certainly pack a punch with their flamboyant jewelled cases. The first serially-produced gem-set variants of the reference in 11 years, the new pair joins the existing diamond-set ref. 5271P as the bling versions of Patek Philippe’s archetypal complication. Initial thoughts Much of the excitement over new releases from Patek Philippe tend to be centred on its sports watches nowadays but that’s not all that the brand has been doing. At Watches & Wonders in March, the brand launched a new version of the longstanding ref. 5270 that featured a smoked green dial that was widely applauded (no doubt in part due to the current popularity of the colour). But the recent launches left me wondering, what else can Patek Philippe do to up its game beyond its mastery of complications? Well, now we have an answer. In terms of the design, the new ref. 5271s retain the classic layout and distinctive feel of the perpetual calendar chronographs that the brand is known for, but with a few adjustments to the dial that give it a more contemporary feel. And then the coloured gemstones transform a watch that is ordinarily sedate into something over the top. While gem-se...
Time+Tide
As watch collectors we all wish to one day stumble on a “barnyard” find. An old watch that’s dug up and sold at an estate sale by an owner who has no idea what it is actually worth. We hear the stories, and they always seem too good to be true. But they definitely happen and, … ContinuedThe post £80k Omega spends 20 years in a drawer until this recent episode of Antiques Roadshow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Or raid the collections of your favorite Talking Watches alumni. And it's all for charity.
Hodinkee
A small Datejust is an all-time classic, and in two-tone it just feels right.
Revolution
Our very first collaboration with Franck Muller is a revival of three iconic 1990s chronographs; the brainchildren of one of the greatest creative minds to have ever worked in the watch industry. This black dial, three-counter chronograph is powered by the historically significant, NOS Lemania 1874 movement, which has been overhauled, tested and beautifully finished […]
Revolution
Our very first collaboration with Franck Muller is a revival of three iconic 1990s chronographs; the brainchildren of one of the greatest creative minds to have ever worked in the watch industry. This silver dial, two-counter chronograph is powered by the historically significant, NOS Lemania 1874 movement, which has been overhauled, tested and beautifully finished […]
Revolution
Grail Watch moves on to Chapter 2 of our ambitious project to bring to life the most extraordinary watches that can be considered grail-worthy. Chapter 2 is called ‘Revival of Past Icons’ and we are extremely privileged to be collaborating with Franck Muller for the very first time to bring back three iconic chronographs from […]
Time+Tide
21, can you do sum’ for me? Can you hit a lil’ rich flex for me? On Drake and 21 Savage’s recently dropped collaborative album Her Loss, the track Rich Flex kicks things off and since its release it has overtaken Tik Tok and other social media. While others have been quick to make memes jesting at Drake being … ContinuedThe post Rich Flex: Drake or 21 Savage – who has the better watch collection? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
She fled Cuba as a baby and built an incredible life for herself and her children.
Deployant
Urwerk releases a new collaboration with Cooper Jacoby to reload their original and highly desirable UR-102. Piece unique to be auctioned off.
Time+Tide
Evolution 9 was born to usher in a new era and tier of Grand Seiko watchmaking. It brought forth their most faceted case yet, with the most alternating hairline-brushed and Zaratsu distortion-free, mirror-polished surfaces. There were broader and sportier hands and indices, plus notably next-gen movements like the high-beat 9SA5 calibre. But while we have … ContinuedThe post Enough Birch: The Grand Seiko SLGH019 proves there is far more dial-ground to cover in Evolution 9 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
De Bethune’s latest invention aims to customise the regulation of a mechanical watch to suit the individual owner. Dubbed the Sensoriel Chronometry Project, it takes the form of a electronic wrist instrument that measures the wearer’s activities and environmental conditions over a two week period – gathering two million data points per hour according to the brand. With this voluminous quantity of data, De Bethune will then regulate a DB28GS Grand Bleu sports watch specifically for the particular owner, optimising timekeeping based on the wearer’s activities. [Updated to include response from Denis Flageollet.] Initial thoughts On paper the Sensoriel is interesting and impressive, but on reflection it raises several questions. For one, the two million data points recorded per hour – for a two-week period – results in an extraordinary amount of information on the wearer’s activities. Can any mechanical watch be regulated to a fine enough resolution that makes even a fraction of that data useful? My knowledge of watchmaking is certainly inexpert but I am sceptical. Mr Flageollet points out De Bethune utilises an algorithm to process the data and sieve out the “elements specific to the wearer, in a way to bring out a specific chronometric DNA for each wearer”, allowing the watch to be regulated according to a smaller number of data points. The second salient point is more philosophical. Historically the pursuit of chronometry meant good timekeeping regardless...
Quill & Pad
The Corum Golden Bridge Table Clock isn’t just loosely inspired by the Corum Golden Bridge, it is made to be a nearly perfect replica of the watch at the scale of a table, and even doubling as a coffee table!
Time+Tide
As the watch world becomes ever more hyperactive on social media, every week dozens of horological memes proliferate across the various channels. The beauty of this medium is that they invariably come from sources that are independent, honest and feisty as hell. In other words, these memes are well worth a look. That’s why we’ve … ContinuedThe post The best watch memes of the week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
In this week's article, we break the mould and take a look at six luxury watches that are not a Rolex or an Omega timepiece.
Quill & Pad
As most folks who follow Patek Philippe are aware, the brand has long been in the habit of making unique watches for special customers, including in recent times entertainment luminaries such as Eric Clapton and Michael Ovitz. It was not until 2015, however, that Patek Philippe publicly issued a number of small editions of previously discontinued references, each in previously unmade metal/dial combinations. This Patek Philippe Reference 5070J-013 is one of those ultra-rare birds. And GaryG wonders if it might bring yellow gold back into fashion single-handedly.
Time+Tide
As a brand of both honoured heritage and cutting-edge design, we’re quite used to seeing a mix of looks from Ball. Generally, they have a sharp and sophisticated look, giving the impression that their watches could survive a year in the wilderness but still make it to dinner reservations in a respectable form. The latest … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Ball Engineer M Skindiver III Beyond combines slick looks with rugged swagger appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Jacob & Co. went to Sicily for the launch of its latest opulent opus, the Opera Godfather 50th Anniversary, which features a rotating movement, triple-axis flying tourbillon, and double-cylinder music box playing the 120 notes of the theme song of 'The Godfather.'
SJX Watches
A much-anticipated series of auctions just concluded in Geneva, the first sale season to take place after financial markets started to crack in mid 2022. All the major auction houses – Christie’s, Phillips, and Sotheby’s – staged sales in the Swiss city, and almost everyone who was anyone turned up (or took part by phone or online). The season’s top performer by the numbers was Christie’s, which sold CHF55.5 million of watches, fees included, largely thanks to the collection of former Ferrari Formula 1 chief Jean Todt. It displaced the traditional number one, Phillips, which sold CHF45.0 million. The Phillips auction at La Reserve. Image – Phillips A few takeaways are immediately apparent in the results. One was widely expected: “hype” watches have come off their highs, often by a third or more. Including obvious candidates like sports watches, namely the Nautilus, Royal Oak, and Overseas, but also brands that enjoyed massive run-ups in value during the pandemic like F.P. Journe. Values are still up from the pre-pandemic lows, but if prices overcorrected on the way up, then it is likely they will do so on the way down. Sotheby’s, for instance, had several dozen examples of various Nautilus and Royal Oak models in its sale, mostly with estimates close to peak values from late 2021. As a result, a third of the watches went unsold. The dip in values was also evident with F.P. Journe, certainly not a “hype” brand but one that enjoy a stellar run during ...
Deployant
The new Montblanc Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum is a more classic design with Starwalker, Meisterstuck design cues like the onion crown and step lugs. It is an alternative to the Heritage Spirit Orbis Terrarum that uses sharper lines on its case with less chamfered edges. The watch is priced at US$7000.
Quill & Pad
CB thought it was a great idea to add a legendary platinum bracelet to his A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Lumen. At first it looked like it would be easy, but then there were a few unforeseen "issues." GaryG tells the up-and-down story of one man's search (and willingness to fight) for his dream grail.
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