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Monochrome
After setting ten world records with its Octo Finissimo range in eleven years, Bulgari’s dominance in the ultra-slim arena is incontestable. The seventh ultra-thin model, the Octo Finissimo Perpetual, conquered the market in 2021. A highly prized complication, the perpetual calendar is powered by an impressively slim movement with a thickness of just 2.75mm. However, […]
SJX Watches
Piaget combines its traditional expertise in stone dials and ultra-thin movements with the Polo Perpetual Calendar Blue Obsidian, a handsome – and more original – take on the complicated Polo. The slim white gold case is combined with a mesmerizing dial in blue obsidian, which is not a mineral as often believed, but instead volcanic glass. Initial Thoughts The latest Polo Perpetual Calendar is arguably Piaget’s strongest release of the year. It plays to two of the brand’s traditional strengths, thin movements and natural stone or mineral dials. Piaget is of course not the only brand with a perpetual calendar sports watch. In fact, the Polo perpetual with a blue obsidian dial is similar enough to the competition to be competitive – it possesses the key characteristics of being slim and blue – but manages to do so without being derivative, which is arguably an issue with the earlier iteration of the model. The blue obsidian dial in particular sets this apart from comparable watches since exotic dial materials are relatively rare in this segment. The mechanics inside the latest Polo perpetual remain the same. While not the most sophisticated perpetual calendar mechanism in the segment, the ubiquitous Dubois Depraz calendar module is solid and reliable if adjusted according to protocol. Its widespread use also makes it easy for watchmakers to source parts, which is not always a given when it comes to complicated ultra-thin watches. That, paired with a competent ult...
Fratello
Let’s be thankful that, in the watch world, “evolution” doesn’t always mean “getting larger.” Take the new 40mm Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture (FC-776SAL3H6) as an example. This watch’s predecessor debuted in 2016 in a 42mm case. It was an important introduction because it was the market’s most affordable mechanical perpetual calendar watch when […] Visit Hands-On With The Updated And Upgraded 40mm Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture to read the full article.
Monochrome
In watchmaking, few complications command such reverence as the perpetual calendar, and few brands have woven it into their identity as thoroughly as Audemars Piguet. While the brand’s mastery of this calendar complication dates back to the early 20th century, its true renaissance came through a most unexpected path: the Royal Oak sports watch. Let […]
WatchAdvice
The first standard production watch with the Breitling B19 Perpetual Calendar movement, of course, had to be a Navitimer. We have gone hands-on with it to see how it stacks up! What We Love That ice-blue dial is stunning! Has an amazing wrist presence and an iconic design Easy to use and adjust movement with the perpetual calendar What We Don’t The reverse-style strap can get in the way, depending on your wrist size The 30m water resistance is on the low side The 43mm size will not suit all wrist sizes if you have a smaller wrist Overall Rating: 9 / 10 Value for Money: 9.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 When you think of Breitling, one of the first, if not the first, model that comes to mind is the Navitimer. Not only is it one of Breitling’s most iconic models, but it is also one of the most iconic watches out there, thanks to its history, unique slide-rule bezel and overall design cues that make it stand out. You can easily recognise a Navitimer on the wrist from a distance. In that regard, it’s up there with the Submariner, the Speedmaster, the Luminor, and the Royal Oak, to name but a few. So it stands to reason that it was one of the models to receive the new in-house B19 Perpetual Calendar movement as part of Breitling’s 140th Anniversary Collection. The 18k Rose Gold 140th Anniversary Navitimer B19 Chronograph Perpetual Calendar. This was my pick of the three, but we chose to review the Super Chronomat instead, given the uniquene...
Deployant
Released at Watches & Wonders Geneva 25, here is our review of the new Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech PAM01575.
Monochrome
Zenith‘s Triple Calendar model is based on the compact 38mm case of the Chronomaster Original, itself modelled after the 1969 El Primero reference A386. This reference provides a balanced and wearable foundation for a relatively complex movement. Initially launched in stainless steel (2024) and subsequently in rose gold (2025), Zenith has decided that it was […]
Fratello
Possibly one of the most unexpected novelties released during this year’s Watches and Wonders was a double-retrograde calendar watch with a 40mm pink gold case. Now, a timepiece of that size, in that material, and with that complication - I mean no disrespect to double-retrograde indications - doesn’t sound too surprising when you think of […] Visit Hands-On With The Surprising Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar - Celebrating The Brand’s 30th Anniversary With A 40mm Watch to read the full article.
Monochrome
Last year, Zenith presented the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar, a masterful mix of a complete calendar complication with the brand’s high-frequency chronograph movement and a surprising history. Housed in a compact 38mm case to replicate the proportions of the iconic round-shaped A386 from 1969, the three stainless steel models were well received. Today, Zenith introduces […]
Fratello
Although I became a big Depeche Mode fan later, the most annoying song of the 1980s was “Just Can’t Get Enough.” The overly simple melody by the English electronic band haunted me when it played on the radio and when it wasn’t on. That simple song, with its sharp synthesizer sounds, square and steady disco […] Visit I Just Can’t Get Enough Of The New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar to read the full article.
Fratello
The Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture debuted in 2016. At that time, it was the most affordable perpetual calendar wristwatch on the market. Now the brand has made some welcome updates to it, so let’s take a look. Frederique Constant is a brand that always brings value when it comes to perpetual calendars. The […] Visit Introducing: The Updated Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture to read the full article.
Monochrome
Following the polarizing launch of its Terra Nova series last year, Bremont builds on the success of its MB aviation-inspired watches with the introduction of the new Altitude series. At the top of the lineup sits the Altitude Perpetual Calendar GMT Mono-Pusher, featuring a sophisticated complication module developed by Agenhor. The new Altitude Perpetual Calendar […]
Monochrome
Released in 2016 with a price tag of EUR 8,000, Frederique Constant’s Perpetual Calendar Manufacture was one of the most affordable QPs on the market. Powered by FC’s in-house calibre FC-775, the perpetual calendar appeared in the Slimline family and the sportier Highlife collection. For Watches & Wonders 2025, the perpetual calendar returns in a […]
Time+Tide
It's the most IWC way to make a perpetual calendar.The post The new IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41 is Klaus and Genta in one sleek, blue package appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Complicated watches are not the first thing that comes to mind when thinking of Panerai. Having said that, the Italian-born Swiss brand has shown us over the years that it can integrate brilliant technical wizardry into its iconic models. Two great examples are the current Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT in Goldtech and Platinumtech. Both seem […] Visit Introducing: The Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech PAM01575 to read the full article.
Monochrome
Parmigiani Fleurier’s main novelty for Watches & Wonders 2025 is the Toric Perpetual Calendar. Following the route map charted by CEO Guido Terreni for the brand, the Toric Perpetual Calendar embodies understated luxury and refined minimalism. Like other models in the Toric collection, the new QPs are housed in precious metal cases featuring the signature […]
Monochrome
IWC’s stellar piece for Watches & Wonders is the Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar, the first complication to join the family since it was revamped in 2023. What’s more, the 41mm Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar is the first stainless steel model at IWC to bear the names of two legends in the world of watchmaking. Evoking the imprint […]
Monochrome
Perpetual calendar chronograph watches are remarkable in their ability to measure the fleeting seconds of the present moment and given the right conditions, the passing of days, months, and years far into the future – perhaps even into eternity. Thus, a good title for this review could be From Here to Eternity, the same as […]
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet’s 150th anniversary debuts are centred on perpetual calendars (at least for now), marking the closing of one chapter and the opening of another. The ingenious new calibre 7138 perpetual calendar marks a definitive new chapter in the brand’s history, while the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “150th Anniversary” Openworked is the swan song for a storied cal. 2120 movement that Audemars Piguet (AP) has relied on for decades. Presented in titanium with a polished BMG bezel, the final edition perpetual calendar is inspired by the Royal Oak pocket watch ref. 25729. This pocket watch lends its sapphire-and-blue aesthetic to the anniversary perpetual calendar, although the pocket watch was ironically powered by a manual wind calibre (as pocket watches tend to be). The ref. 25729PT was a 20-piece limited edition with a matching platinum chain, made in 1992 for the 20th anniversary of the Royal Oak Initial thoughts The anniversary edition marks the end of the cal. 5134/5135 (and the preceding cal. 2120/2800), the long-lived perpetual calendar movement that AP launched in 1978. While great in its time, the movement was dated and somewhat low-tech by modern standards. The retirement of the movement is well deserved, and it is certainly going out in style. At a distance the anniversary perpetual calendar is familiar, but up close it reveals details that make it a little bit more interesting than its peers. These include the blue ringed-sapphire dial, retro signatu...
Time+Tide
It's been a great run.The post The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked 150th Anniversary says goodbye to the Calibre 5135 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet kicks off its 150th anniversary in a big way with an all-new perpetual calendar movement, the Audemars Piguet Calibre 7138. Making its debut in both the Code 11.59 and Royal Oak, the cal. 7138 is a landmark in traditional perpetual calendars. In fact, the movement is perhaps the most sophisticated and user-friendly perpetual calendar from an establishment brand. The calendar relies on the classic “grand lever” mechanism that’s been reinvented in an ultra-thin manner, but more importantly, the cal. 7138 employs an ingenious and innovative setting mechanism. Consequently, it is impressively intuitive and also foolproof. All the calendar indications are set via the crown, and the movement can’t be broken by setting it at the wrong time. Together, these features mark the cal. 7138 out as one of the most notable perpetual calendar movements on the market today. The cal. 7138 debuts in the Code 11.59 (left) and Royal Oak. Image – Audemars Piguet Initial thoughts The perpetual calendar has long been a key part of the history of Audemars Piguet (AP), especially after the bestselling ref. 5548 was launched in 1978. So a brand-new perpetual calendar for its 150th anniversary is fitting. At the same time, the calibre illustrates AP’s tremendous advances as a vertically integrated, industrial-haute horlogerie manufacture that has developed an splendid stable of in-house calibres in a relatively short period of time. The irony is that the cal. 7138 is almost...
Fratello
The IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar IW3750 from 1985 is an important watch for IWC and the entire Haute Horlogerie universe post-Quartz Crisis. Master watchmaker Kurt Klaus built a perpetual calendar mechanism on top of an automatic chronograph, which reignited interest in complicated horology and made people look at IWC differently. The innovative watch brought […] Visit There Is Nothing Left To Reintroduce, Or Is There? What About The IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar IW3750 From 1985? to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Twelve years ago, Blancpain surprised the watch world by introducing a watch in their Villeret collection that featured a traditional Chinese calendar. For 2024, Blanpain releases a limited edition in red gold with oven-fired green enamel dial.
SJX Watches
To mark the Chinese New Year that begins on January 29, 2025, Blancpain has unveiled the Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar “Year of the Snake”. For the first time, the brand combines a platinum case with a green grand feu enamel dial on its wristwatch that has the unusual complication of a Chinese lunisolar calendar. As with previous editions, the Villeret Chinese Calendar displays the symbol of the Chinese Zodiac in a small aperture located at noon, in addition to featuring a snake motif engraved on its frosted white gold rotor. Initial thoughts The ability of a perpetual calendar to accurately track months, dates, and days for decades, mechanically and without any manual adjustments, remains impressive even as the complication has become common. Watches with a traditional Chinese calendar, however, remain rare and arguably more impressive. Only a handful of brands have incorporated the traditional Chinese calendar into a wristwatch, with Blancpain being one of the earliest to do so, way back in 2012 ( and more recently H. Moser & Cie. has done the same). Admittedly, the latest edition of the Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar introduces little new beyond the platinum case paired with a green enamel dial. Both the design and movement remain the same. While not intrinsically novel, the new version of the Traditional Chinese Calendar remains an interesting complication, with the new livery being appealing in itself. Year of the serpent The snake zodiac edition is...
Fratello
Last month, the IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar won the famed “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix at 2024’s GPHG. Because of its innovative complication, it’s a watch worth revisiting. However, you can also visit this timepiece in person at the new Amsterdam IWC boutique. We briefly looked at the IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar after it debuted at […] Visit The IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar - GPHG 2024’s “Aiguille D’Or” Grand Prix Winner to read the full article.
Monochrome
Blancpain’s longstanding tradition of calendar complications stood it in good stead when it approached the complexities of fusing elements from Chinese and Gregorian calendars to produce the Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar in 2012. Celebrating the Chinese New Year that kicks off on January 29, 2025, the latest Villeret welcomes the Year of the Wood Snake. […]
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet (AP) debuts an entirely new look for its thinnest-ever perpetual with the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Greater China. Crafted entirely in yellow gold in a first for the model, the limited edition even sports a gilded dial with matching yellow gold moon disc. Initial thoughts The Royal Oak is inarguably the face of AP. And amongst Royal Oak models, the ultra-thin perpetual calendar stands out for its technical sophistication. Derived from the Royal Oak RD#2 concept watch, the Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin has a cleverly engineered movement that spreads out the calendar mechanism to minimise its height. That results in a slim case that enhances the proportions of the Royal Oak design. The signature starry moon phase features yellow gold-toned moons The Greater China edition is a major departure from the grey and blue tones of the prior two versions. It’s loud and definitely not for everyone, but it does look good. At the same time, it also references vintage Royal Oak perpetual calendar models that featured similar all-gold livery. Though the price is only on request, the Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin mode in general is pricey, arguably more expensive than it should be in fact, but it looks and feels great on the wrist. Yellow moons Crafted from 18k yellow gold, the ultra-thin yellow gold case is 41 mm in diameter and 6.2 mm in thickness. Water resistant to only 20 m due to its thinness, the case is finished in traditional Royal Oak style, wit...
Fratello
Panerai’s first-ever watch prototype was released on October 24th, 1935, and it was called Radiomir. The watch will turn 90 next year, but the excitement must be too big to control at the brand’s headquarters because the Panerai Radiomir Perpetual Calendar GMT Goldtech PAM01453 you see here is a celebratory model. It is a complicated […] Visit From Prototype To Perpetual Calendar: The Panerai Radiomir Perpetual Calendar GMT Goldtech PAM01453 to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
With major wrist presence and even more cool factor, we’ve gone hands-on with the 140th Anniversary Breitling Super Chronomat Perpetual Calendar! What We Love: The rose gold and black colour combination looks great The skeleton dial gives depth and character to the piece The Rouleaux-style rubber strap is comfortable and so easy to wear. What We Don’t: The onion crown can be a little finicky to unscrew/screw It won’t fit or suit all wrist sizes being 44mm The dial can appear busy at first glance Overall Rating: 8.625/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 As you may well have heard, this year marks the 140th Anniversary of Breitling. It’s a big birthday for the brand, now headed up by Georges Kern, who in recent years has gone back through the history of Breitling and helped to re-define the brand. With new models that harken back to its past, and the vision that Leon Breitling had all the way back in 1884, through to when his son, Gaston took over the business and launched their patented chronograph in 1932, to the days of the icons under Willy Breitling, it’s no wonder there is such a large and illustrious back catalogue to take inspiration from! So celebrate its 140th Anniversary, Breitling released three perpetual calendars, at Geneva Watch Days 2024 – A Premier, Navitimer and Super Chronomat. According to Georges Kern, they couldn’t do justice to the 140 years of history with just one watch, so they went with th...
SJX Watches
Panerai raised some eyebrows when it installed the newly developed perpetual calendar movement in the beefy Luminor. Now the brand brings the complication to its more elegant, but still oversized, wristwatch with the Radiomir Perpetual Calendar GMT Goldtech PAM01453. Initial thoughts The Radiomir collection has always been Panerai’s most elegant offering, with some older models even being dress watches, albeit in Panerai style. The slimmer cushion-shaped case, wire lugs, and onion crown evoke the early wristwatches. Compared to the bulkier Luminor, the Radiomir is more adaptable in terms of design and complications, and consequently sometimes departs from the brand’s signature military look. A complication such as a perpetual calendar tends to fit better in more classical designs. For that reason, the perpetual calendar didn’t feel at home in the Luminor format. Bringing the perpetual calendar to the Radiomir seems like the sensible thing to do. The PAM01453 is handsome, especially with a case in Goldtech, Panerai’s proprietary rose gold alloy of platinum and copper that the brand claims to have superior durability. Though more elegant, the PAM01453 is still a rather large watch in typical Panerai style and measures 45mm across. The slim lugs and the leather strap should increase wearability to some extent, but the piece remains imposing. The P.4100 The PAM01453 celebrates in part the first Panerai watch prototype that was developed in 1935, a timepiece that was ...
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